Dave S

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Posts posted by Dave S

  1. On 7/17/2020 at 6:05 PM, Chip Sawdust said:

    Aside from woodworking, I have seven guitars, a tenor sax, keyboard and a bunch of amplifiers and software for my music habit, er, hobby. Then I have a small arsenal of firearms for shooting sports, although I'm not a hunter. I just like to shoot, reload, study the physics and chemistry of it and have enjoyed that for most of my life. There used to be a boating hobby, but I've dropped out of that in the last 10 years or so.

    I'd love to have a beer with you @ChipSawdust. Man what diversity!  Which brings me to my hobby (in addition to the newest one woodworking). I loved preaching, but since I now sometimes get disabled without warning, that went out the window. Nobody wants to go to church and look at an unexpectedly empty pulpit. So, I write and talk with people about how faith speaks to the issues of life we all face. It really is a joy to be with people through difficult times and bring faith to bear in a world increasingly naturalistic. Because I came to faith as a scientist, I try to bring a unique perspective during these discussions. Odd hobby I know, but it's mine.

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  2. 20 hours ago, treeslayer said:

    Thanks Dave, celebrating our nations birth like everyone and the day I met this girl in 1969

    Loved the pic Dave. It reminds of simpler times in our nation when I listened to the baseball game on the radio with my girlfriend and family holding a frosty one waiting for the fireworks. Yea baby. Happy 4th y'all.

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  3. Mick,

    I too am so sorry for your loss. Mourning is an experience we all will know sooner or later, but I’m so sorry it had to be sooner for you with Alison. It is difficult to see someone we love suffer and just as difficult to enter that necessary place where you are at peace that the suffering is over. My prayers are with you and while the support of this community that I am pleased to be part of won’t remove your heart ache from her absence, it will be with you always as you move forward. God bless.

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  4. Dave I'm curious about the wood movement. BTW, really nice box at the start of this thread, and I liked very much the sliding insert. Think I'm going to steal that idea. Anyhow, the long grain looks like it's all in the same direction. Even though the board is comprised of strips, why do you think the wood movement didn't tear apart your miter joints in the nice-looking frame?

  5. Thanks for the tip Mick. I'll check it out. I'm expecting some patience will be needed on my part even if I have a more step-by-step idea of how it's done. In my previous career as an educator, mastery preceded creativity. Once I knew the material cold I was going to teach, then I could get very creative with how I taught it. Teaching design if you will. If design in woodworking is like that, I'll need some patience as I practice the skills. Nevertheless, a step-by-step process I suspect will jump start that whole thing. Thanks again for the reference to FW. They have a show on my public television station that I watch religiously.

  6. I just discovered this thread this morning. Don't know how I missed it. Really lovely, but what caught my attention most is the great design. As I'm late to this game in my life, I find the design part of it is the most challenging. Building someone else's plan introduced me to the techniques required, changing those plans to make the project my own came next, but my ultimate goal is to do what you did here. See some design elements and simply turn them into a project from your mind. Really inspiring to see. Thanks for posting this.


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  7. 13 hours ago, drzaius said:

    First of all, if you want good finishing results and to avoid much frustration, abandon the idea that wood needs a stain. Even with spray equipment & lots of skill, the results will be okay at best when finishing construction lumber like pine, spruce, fir & the like. 

    If you stick with pine for whatever reason, avoiding stain even in dried wood is wise. My experience is also limited, but my first project after buying a planer (like here, the folks at Rockler suggested a planar high up on the list of necessities) was to tear apart a wobbly workbench I had made years ago from pine. I turned it into a table and just put arm-r-seal on it. It looks great for what it is knots and all. So I tried to build another project (I believe a picture frame) out of pine and wanted to stain it. It looked awful on scraps, so I abandoned that and read about differential stain penetration in woods like pine. Then I tried dying it, which was better, but still not as pretty as the wood itself. Just some experience from another novice who bumbled his way to the same conclusion drzaius provided. BTW, the book I read to help me with these kinds of issues was Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish (American Woodworker). https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=bob+flexner&qid=1591700588&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFTTU1OQ1ZSREhHSEEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzNzE5MTQ5T0ZVSU8yMlFKUlQmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDg4NDcwNDFWNVAzUElZN1I0NUMmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

  8. 22 hours ago, treeslayer said:

    i'm not sure what you're referring to Dave, are you talking about inside the box, if so that's an optical illusion where the butternut joins the walnut, if that's not it let me know and we'll straighten it out from there, thanks

    Thanks for the clarification. Really gorgeous box btw.

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  9. Been investigating this for a while and have seen many threaded insert/hanger bolt-like arrangements. So thanks for confirming this was a reasonable idea. The floating mortise and tenon seems the most stable way to do this when I envision the shelving cabinet being pushed across the floor during a move, a concern that had not occurred to me until I read your responses. Now I just have to work up a jig to get the router to place the bottom shelf mortise at the angle of attachment I am after. The legs I can do at the router table. Wish I had a domino.

    Anyhow, thanks so very much to you all. What a resource this group is!

  10. 3 minutes ago, G Ragatz said:

    I think what the OP has in mind is something like this, where the legs are on an angle, and there's a pair of stretchers connecting legs diagonally across the bottom from each other, with a lap joint where the stretchers cross.

    This is what I did with the dressers. Just like that. However, when I did a bit of a mockup it looked too bulky and cluttered when all three pieces look that way.

  11. Y’all helped me with a finishing question a while back for dresser drawers (“Dresser glides, to finish or not?”; many thanks), and that project is still ongoing.  Yea being retired I have the luxury of working very slowly which is good because my experience is limited. The dresser I’m building my daughter is three components; two chest of drawers and a center shelving component.

    The shelf component is small and so I wanted independent legs rather than a leg structure like I built for the chest of drawers. Because I used a box joint-like joinery for the sides, bottom and top on all 3 pieces (pic attached) I have a hardwood bottom. One way to attach them would be to simply screw through the bottom into the legs (pic of leg attached). However, that would leave a screw hole in an exposed shelf which requires me to insert a plug to cover it. Now that’s fine, if that’s the best way to do this.

    SO, I was hoping to get the advice from you more seasoned woodworkers. What’s the best way to attach an independent leg when you have a solid wood bottom?

    Quick details. The bottom of the shelves is 7/8 of an inch thick. The leg shown in the pic is about 2 ¾ inches across the top, 2 inches on the bottom and is about 1 5/8 inches wide. The direction of attachment is important to match the direction of the legs on the dresser which are rotated to face each other from corner to corner (left front-right back) and held at that angle with stretchers and a lap joint connecting the two stretchers.  

    Sorry to be so long-winded, but I’ve kept up with the posts and see that y'all usually have a bunch of questions in order to get people the best advice. Thanks guys.

    bottom side joinery.jpg


  12. I promised to post a picture of a comparison between some of the options you all suggested. Unfortunately, the picture only hints at what you can see with your eye. What’s mostly missing is a 3 dimensional issue and contrast. My phone just couldn’t seem to capture these.

    Arm-R-Seal and Endurovar alone (both semigloss) were applied in three coats with 400 grit sanding between. Danish oil was applied as the can suggested, saturating the wood then waiting 15 minutes and applying again with the final wipe off. I allowed a few days for the Danish oil to cure rather than longer figuring I only needed to get a look. However, so far no problems with adherence.

    Anyhow, here are my conclusions based on what I can see with the real piece in front of me:

    1. Endurovar is pale particularly if the wood is viewed at certain angles and produces the least contrast. This didn’t seem to happen with with Arm-R-seal (e.g. compare left and center panel grains in the middle of the wood).

    2. Danish oil topped with Endurovar eliminated the paler look, producing a deep rich tone, but likewise minimized the contrast.

    3. Arm-R-Seal in my opinion captured the best of the wood producing a three dimensional depth you can’t see in the picture. Neither of the Endurovar panels captured this.

    Conclusion: I didn’t realize how much my eye yearns for contrast because the Danish oil certainly restored the color of the wood, but was unsatisfactory to me. Although I would like to move away from the long cure time and heavier smell of the oil-based finish, I just love that look.

    Looking forward to trying some of the hard wax oils you all have been discussing.


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