Dave S

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Everything posted by Dave S

  1. I too own a Dewalt 735. Being retired, I’m in the shop most afternoons for about three hours and have had the machine since 2016. The blades from Dewalt work well for me, but dull to the point of ripping chips out (my signal to do a change) about every project and ½ with the project being a piece of furniture (e.g. dresser, coffee table). They last longer obviously when I’m doing small projects. That sounds not so good, but the blades are relatively cheap compared to their carbide alternatives and a breeze to change or rotate to the second side. I also very much like the difference in speed. For some woods like walnut or soft maple I can use the dimension setting (speed 2) without problems. However, for hard maple I’ll get tear out at that speed which disappears when I move to the slower setting (speed 1). Bottom line, mine has been running well for four years but will probably break this afternoon because I posted this to you all.
  2. Thanks to all for the education. Sounds like you can get a feel for whether or not the final finish will adhere pretty soon. I didn't describe this well in my original post, but I was thinking you might have to wait for a long period of time to determine adherence. Because that isn't so (please correct me if I've misinterpreted here), I'm going to try with a test piece Danish oil (three week cure), and Enduro-var over that. I'll post some pictures as I go. Again, thanks so much everyone. Dave
  3. Richard, I'm assuming that pkinneb's caution about linseed oil not curing is not a concern with Danish oil? It does fully cure? Thanks for weighing in.
  4. Yea, we never get lake effect snow in Pittsburgh in April. Lakes are usually frozen over. Sigh.....
  5. Thanks guys for the linseed oil caution and recommendations. Dave
  6. Chestnut, sorry to be so naïve but what's ARS?
  7. A while back I picked up some Enduro Var from General Finishes. I used it on a number of projects and liked it. However, it does not add the rich amber color that an oil-based finish does. The directions say it should only be used over water stains, dye stains and raw wood. I tried it once on an experimental project for myself over an oil based stain, giving the stain seven days to cure. I’m about three quarters of the year in and everything seems to be holding up. The project I’m working on now is with walnut and I don’t want to use a stain, but don’t want to go straight Enduro Var because when I’ve used it on walnut in the past it fails to produce that deep warm brown you get with oil. So with that brief history, I wonder if I might get away with using linseed oil first, let it cure for an extended period, and then try the Enduro Var. Does anybody have experience over time with this strategy or something similar? The project is big, and I don’t want to screw it up. Thanks guys, Dave
  8. Mike, Chet's advice is very good. I used dowel joinry on a project where the boards receiving the dows were 3/4. I used 3/8 inch dowels, and as I was tapping one of them, blew out one of the surfaces. I was using a shop made jig to drill the holes (wood, also 3/4 inch thick), but things still wandered off center likely through repetitive use of the wooden jig or wondering forced by the grain. Either way, perhaps a dowel size less than 1/2 of the thickness would leave more room for error or using a non wood hole slightly larger than three quarters of an inch to better control the dissent of the drill boring the holes. BTW, although my piece won't have the heavy duty use yours will, I fixed the blowout by grinding around the edges to give it a smoother appearance and filling it with epoxy. Now it just looks like a knot. Good luck and I hope my mistakes are a help.
  9. Thanks Chet. gee-dub, I too like walnut, but my daughter is crazy about it. Since I am rapidly becoming her source for furniture, I suspect a few more walnut trees are going to be found in my daughter's home. I really appreciate the observations from folks about clothing snagging on unfinished wood. It reaffirms my notion of using shellac on the doors. So that leads me to another question. On the glides, I was going to take Chetnut's suggestion of shellac (smoothed with steel wool) followed by Johnson paste wax. Does it matter whether or not the shellac is de-waxed?
  10. Thanks for the tape suggestion and other experiences.
  11. Excellent guys. I used Enduro Var from General Finish for that Christmas present I mentioned above and it looked great. However, at least for a while it too had an odor. Wtnhighlander's comment makes me wonder if maybe I stop smelling things before others do (perhaps an inferior sniffer). So shellac it is! Thanks so much for all the input folks. Since my woodworking only began after I retired in 2016, I still have much to learn and am looking forward to interactions with you all in the future.
  12. Thanks again for your interest and responses pkineb and treeslayer. Dovetails were cut at the router table using incra’s fence system. My wife bought it for me for Christmas two years ago and I finally got around to using the provided dovetail templates first on a small Christmas present I made for my nephew and then on these drawers. The system works great, but you have to find the center of the board perfectly or things go south. I made a walnut display cabinet for my daughter using some plans I found in Wood Smith and finished it with General Finish Oil based- Topcoat. My daughter loved the look so I thought I would go back to that here since this dresser is for her. However, somewhere (maybe the wood whisper) I read you should not finish the inside drawers of a dresser with varnish because it will make the clothes stink. The stuff I have finished with that in the past has indeed smelt up the joint until it cures fully, but then seems okay to me. So, still up in the air about finish. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks again
  13. All, Thanks so much for the rapid guidance. It's nice know I have place to go for advice. in response to Treeslayers request I attached a few pictures. Thanks for the interest Treeslayer. Hope all are well and healthy, Dave
  14. Good morning all. Brand-new to the form, and hope I can tap your collective wisdom. I am building a dresser out of walnut with hard maple drawers and glides. When I pull the drawers in and out they slid very nicely over the sanded drawer and mounted glides on the case. My question is should I apply finish to these parts that are gliding smoothly now or will that muck things up. Never built a dresser before so not quite certain how to proceed.