gmercer_48083

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gmercer_48083 last won the day on May 4

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About gmercer_48083

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    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 03/04/1952

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Troy, Michigan USA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Just about all woodworking areas, with the greatest interest in hand tool woodwork.

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  1. I had looked on Ebay for over a year, thinking I would get one for around $65.00 with shipping. Boy was I wrong! Most of the complete router planes sold for over $100.00 and that was plus shipping most of the time. I ended giving up and bought a Veritas from Lee Valley. I think the prices on Ebay went through the roof... since Paul Sellers has shown how useful they are in his videos. The only reasonable prices I have seen have been in England, but would require extra $$$ to import to USA.
  2. Not only is woodpeckers chamfer plane pricey... I suppose when the nice shiny red finish rubs off... the aluminum will mar the wood like a pencil. Those marks don't erase like a pencil mark. Ha Ha.
  3. For those who may be interested in making a Side escapement Bead Plane, this may be for you. I documented this in three parts, with lots of photos. In Part 1 you will learn how to use a table saw to make the intricate parts of this plane, use an electric router to profile the bead. In Part 2 you will learn how to profile and heat treat the iron. In part 3 you will learn how to embellish and finish the bead plane. The most difficult part for me was all the time it took to photograph in detail... How I did it. Feel free to download the pdf files. Garys How I made a Side bead plane Part 1.pdf Garys How I made a Side Bead Plane Iron Part 2.pdf Garys How I made a Side Bead Part 3.pdf
  4. I have been happy with the harbor freight random orbit sander. I have had it now about 4 years and the only thing I don't like is my fingers have difficulty working the on off switch... but may be they are too big. My first B&D wore out the Velcro before its time, and it was cheaper to get the HF as a replacement. Never looked back.
  5. I usually start my hand plane making endeavors by using Sketchup to draw a plan, so I have an idea as to what I have to do and in what order I have to do them. This is what helped me think through the process. To use a round plane properly... you start out with a rebate in the wood as a guide for the round to follow. The round is held a 45 degrees to the rebate as you plane the wood which forms the profile. The "Rounding Plane" forms the hollow (inside) in the wood and the "Hollow Plane" forms the round (outside) the wood. Planes can be made for left or right direction also to deal with wood grain direction also.
  6. Typically I chamfer using any flat bottom plane for this. I don't see a real advantage in a chamfer plane, although a vee groove could be plan,d into making a rebate plane... or for that matter... you could route a pattern into the sole to create a profile. In order to add a profile to the sole you have to plan ahead so the mouth is not opened too much. I made a beading plane that way. Like I said … Start with a rebate plane to get an understanding, and I guarantee you will see the possibilities and make more.
  7. Making a coffin plane is quite a bit more difficult to make than a side escapement plane. It is even quite a bit more difficult to explain (as I found out). If you are starting out you should begin with a rebate (side escapement) plane.
  8. So far, all the hand planes I have made work well. My hollow was the first plane I made... and I copied my plane from the antique... only I used laminations so I could use my table saw/miter saw to guarantee precise angles. I found out along the way, that making the wedge was the most difficult part of the process. I made a jig that solved that. After that I wondered if a common 2x4 would work, so the next plane I made was a rebate plane using the same sawing methods and it worked quite well. On the third plane (a skewed rebate plane) I modified the angles of the cuts to 15 degrees (bed and breast) so the iron and the wedge are at 15 degrees. This makes the plane work well when making a rebate across end grain. My suggestion to you if considering making a hand plane is to start with a rebate plane. It would be the simplest to make. I used O-1 Steel (Starrett brand) 1/8"x1/2" ground annealed. You don't need to make an oven to do the heat treating... just a Bernzomatic propane torch, and cooking oil to quench. I guarantee if you make one... you will make more.
  9. gmercer_48083

    Power Washer

    I think you would be happy with this unit. Northern tool has been a major supplier for many years. With moderate care I am sure this will far outlast your last pressure washer. I like that they use "no flat tires also".
  10. I documented (in a pdf file) how I make Hollows and Rounds Planes. If you are interested in making one, I am sure this will help you. Lots of explanation and photos. Garys Laminated Side Escapement Plane.pdf
  11. This is the jig I use to make the wedges used for wooden hand planes. It makes sawing the wedges for making wooden hand planes very precise and repeatable. Feel free to download the pdf file about how to make it. Garys Wedge Jig.pdf
  12. If you are interested in making a Coffin Smoother Plane, I have documented my making one. It was a fun project... and works rather well. In this pdf file... I explain every step with photos. Feel free to download. Garys Making a Coffin Smoothing Plane.pdf
  13. Mick, Just watched your video about the spoke shave. Great tip! Thanks for posting.
  14. The tool is a variation of a "Japanese Yari Kanna". Possibly from somewhere in Asia.