Scooby

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  1. Thanks everyone for your tips. I wonder if the Timber Wolf Bandsaw Blade and Sawblade.com are good brands. I kind of understand the TPI but not very clear the difference between flex back vs hard back character of the saw blade. Is it true that flex back is preferred for cutting curve/plastic while the hardback is better for resaw?
  2. Howdy, So I pulled the trigger for the Harvey Ambassadr C-14 bandsaw and have a couple of questions. I am also new to woodworking and this is my first bandsaw. The bandsaw is almost 400lb, 71" height but the base is only 24" x 15-3/4". I'm afraid it will tip easily once I put it on a mobile base. I heard people say bandsaw is top-heavy but it doesn't make sense to me. I'm thinking of bolting the base to a wider foot, say 2 pieces 3/4" x 28" x 20" plywood glued together, before putting the saw on the mobile base. Do you think it will help to stabilize the saw? They say the saw can accept 1" wide blade but I cannot find any 1" blade on the market except the crazy expensive 125" x 1" Resaw King from Laguna. For cutting the curve, I will buy the 125" x 1/4" 6tpi blade from Timber Wolf. What's your suggestion?
  3. Howdy, So made my first trip to the saw mill and came back with some live edge aromatic cedar slabs (2" thick, 7ft long, 1ft wide). I plan to make 1 table (5-6ft long, 2-3ft wide) with 2 benches in the backyard . Since I am new to wood working and have not worked with live edge slabs before, I have a couple of questions: is it a good idea to use the cedar slab for table top? I know that it is softwood but a few dents during use may makes it more rustic as outdoor furniture. But if it's too soft, I will use for making benches only and buy some hard wood later for table top. what type of treatment , preps and finish for outdoor furniture that you guys are using, especially for cedar? how to deal with defects such as cracks, void, rotting spot in the slabs and on the edges? as for gluing the table top, I will use the biscuit joint and alternate the end grain when gluing up. I wonder if that joint and stabilizing 2x4 underneath will prevent the top from bowing and cupping under outdoor env. Thanks in advance!!!
  4. @Immortan DI'm glad to hear from an L-N LA owner. If it is easier to swap blades and square/tune it than the BD planes, I may go with this route: single LA jack plane with multiple blades for various task. Do you have any advice for sharpening?
  5. @pkinnebCan you share with me more about what tasks you do with #5? Do you also change the blades between each task?
  6. @ChetThanks for your input. Actually, I also go with this hybrid approach and not planning to get a lot of hand tools. My Harvey table saw is coming and my Dewalt 735 planer need some practice and tune-up to reduce snipe. I don't have power jointer. I plan to use a low angle jack plane for preparing 1 face and 1 edge of the rough lumber before sending them to power planer and table saw. In that direction, the low angle jack plane with multiple blades seems to fit my need but I am not sure how it will work out in reality.
  7. @Chestnutthanks for your input!!! I will definitely have a look at those vintage planes.
  8. Howdy, I am new to woodworking and hand planes. The below clip really caught my attention as one can do various tasks with this one. I do have a few questions: do other low angle jack planes have the same capabilities as the L-N one as long as one have multiple blades honing at different angles? the blade comes with 25 degree ground bevel, should one hone a second bevel of 5 degree and use for end grain smoothing or use as is out of the box? if one wants to use this plane for medium flattening and face smoothing, should the blade be honed another 15 degree at second bevel so that the total blade angle will be 40 degree like in the clip? Will it be better and more efficient to dedicate different blades for flattening and smoothing instead of 1 blade at the same angle? If yes, what angle should each blade be honed at? How easy it is to swap the blade and tune it? In the clip, he used 1 blade at 40 degree for medium flattening and smoothing but he has re-hone the blade in between and it was kind of inefficient to me. He did not describe the adjusting/tuning process every time the blade is changed in the clip during each stage of the flow: course removal -> medium flattening -> fine smoothing. I heard one can use this plane for jointing as long as the board is not 3 times longer than the plane. In that case, what setting and blade angle should one use? Is it the same as fine smoothing setup at 40 degree? the toothed blade is out of stock on their website, I wonder if one can use another blade or setting with this plane for the same purpose of course removal of the rough lumber. I never tried blade honing before. Any advice or suggestion of practicing before putting my hand on the $45 L-N blade?
  9. @Mark JOnce the saw is on the mobile base, it will be moving around inside the garage but not a lot. I will be home on the day of delivery and ask the guy to drop the pallet inside my garage.
  10. Howdy, So my table saw will be delivered in a few days on a pallet and weights 480 lbs. The package will be 48" x 40" x 77". I will need to move the saw from the pallet to the mobile base by myself using whatever I have lying around. In this case, I have a farm jack and straps plus a few 2 x 4 lumbers. I wonder if it is possible and safe to lift the saw up in a similar to the clip below. My build is quite small and it is difficult to ask for extra hands. I am hesitant to buy a harbor freight shop crane just for this one time. (https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lifts-cranes-stands/shop-cranes/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-61858.html) How do you guys lift heavy tools in your shop?
  11. @Chestnut wow, that's really a big WOW!!! Now, I am leaning more to hauling the cedar with tailgate up haha
  12. Thanks guys. I really like the idea of putting a 4x4 board at the end of the bed before the tailgate and then keep the tailgate down. It helps to create a small angle and reduce load on the tailgate. I usually keep the tailgate up when hauling only a few 8ft boards. In this case, I will keep the tailgate down since there are 30 pieces.
  13. Howdy, I plan to build some outdoor table, chairs and planters using cedar. Obviously, the price at HD or Lowes is crazy high these days. The sawmill that I am interested is 42 miles away (http://www.mgsawmill.com/) and I have never been to a sawmill before. They are selling a stack of 30pc 1x6x8 cedar for $194 cash, do you think is it a good price? I will be using a pickup truck with 5 ft bed length and not sure what is the best way to fit them on the truck: using a circular saw to break them onsite into 5ft and then load on the truck or put the whole stack on the truck with tail gate down. If I go with second option, the boards will stick out 3ft in the back and I am not sure that is okay on the highway. Once I get back, the planer and table saw will do the job to make them into dimensional lumber. How long should I wait before cutting them?
  14. @Mark J I am eyeing at this Harvey saw. Seller gave me another $100 coupon. I am asking for the 230V prewired and the NEMA connection before pulling the trigger.
  15. Thanks everyone for the advice. Yes, the laundry room shares the wall with the garage. The table saw is coming prewired at 115V and need 32 amp breaker which I believe is not compatible to resident outlets. It can also be wired to 230V. I still have some questions to the seller before pulling the trigger. I talked to a neighbor who is also an electrician. He said there is a high chance that the dryer wires comes down from the attic. In that case, we can add a new the wire from the attic to the garage. I asked him for a quote but he said no. Instead, he will write a list I can buy the wires/parts and help me install it. I thanked him and offer to buy him some beer