Drawdoow

Members
  • Content Count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

36 Neutral

About Drawdoow

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.stevenwoodward.ca

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Woodworking Interests
    Tool, Methods,

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have used cross cut sleds and miter sleds for many years but never had a bevel cutting sled. Bevel cutting sled does the same job as miter sled. However, the length of miter sled cut is limited to the height of table saw blade, while a bevel sled cut is limited only by the size of the sled. Found the bevel sled made it easy to make a mitred corner box that went together clean and square. Properties of this sled that contribute to precise cuts: Fence on the miter sled was calibrated by 5-cut method to get it dead square to the blade. Stops on the miter sled fe
  2. This corner clamp is easy to make with table saw. Wooden wedges clamp the material and keep it square. Four of these clamps, resting on a flat surface, will keep the project square and level. They are now included in my clamping arsenal. Video: https://youtu.be/BfYqk_x_aDo
  3. I've been using crosscut sleds for many years but never bothered with fancy stuff like flip stops. As I had to make new sleds for new saw, decided to give accessories a try, and found they are helpful. I made the fence height the same on both of my sleds so that same accessories could be used on both sleds. The accessories I made are shown in photos. There is a video as well but the photos tell the story: Flip up stop blocks with magnets to hold the blocks up and magnets to hold the blocks down. Bolt on fence extensions so that the stop blocks can be used for cut
  4. I made a standard size crosscut sled, then found that I was often cutting smaller pieces that would be better suited to a smaller lighter sled. Some features implemented on the small sled: Fence was aligned using five cut method, with a sacrificial fence. Bessey clamp to hold small pieces that would be unsafe to hold by hand. Clamp slides in a T-track that is secured to base with epoxy Fence is designed so that accessories can be swapped between the sleds
  5. Had some difficulty making the juice groove on a round cutting board, until I came up with fixture shown in thumbnail, which uses a router, and two ball bearings to guide the cutting board. Arrow on fixture shows direction to rotate the cutting board so that spinning router bit does not push it away from the ball bearings.
  6. Must depend on the saw. I found much less dust with zero clearance, as show in the this brief comparison video
  7. Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss. With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it is easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time. Locate the probe of dial indicator over the fence rail so that dial indicator does not change when the fence is tightened - see red circle in photo below. A couple of times I have found this fine adjustment helpful: 1. Cutting UHMW runners to fit nicely in the miter slot for floats 2. Cutting mortise and tenon joints on table saw, to get a good fit.
  8. I agree. The shop made inserts real advantage is with dado sets because you can have one for each dado width. Also the blade guard does not work with dado anyway, so no downside in that regard.
  9. That is one disadvantage of the shop made insert: The blade guards that replace the riving knife don't work because the slot in the insert would have to be so long that the insert would be too weak. Have to use the overhead type blade guard.
  10. The bottom of a SawStop insert is difficult to replicate in a shop made wooden insert. If we limit the application to vertical cuts, and exclude maximum height of the blade, then the insert becomes much simpler, and still works most of the time. Wooden inserts have the advantage of zero clearance around the blade. Also they are quick to make and low cost so you can have one for each dado width. Drill pattern for SawStop insert is shown in photos below
  11. Shop made wooden insert does a better job of keeping dust below the table. Made a short video to confirm the difference: https://youtu.be/blBJ-EKZb7c
  12. My old sleds did not fit on new table saw, so I gave my old sleds to the guy who bought the old saw, and set out to make new sleds. Did some research on best practices in table saw sled construction, and found some great ideas that were new to me, and also came up with some ideas of my own. But I did not find an instruction that pulled together all the great ideas. Therefore made this video showing how to make a versatile and precise miter sled. https://youtu.be/yJbVyA8rqYA Some ideas incorporated in this design are: 1. Used a single UHMW runner. Found this to be just as good
  13. Inspired by the book: “Shop Machines” by John White, I found that I could get excellent results with shop made fixtures. The only expensive thing to purchase is a good dial indicator. Blade alignment on a table saw should be checked at three blade positions: 1) vertical at maximum height; 2) vertical at minimum height; 3) bevel 45 degrees at maximum height. Some table saws, such as SawStop ICS, have separate adjustment for each of these alignments, but even on a saw without separate adjustments it is good to know what the alignment errors are. Most instructions for alignmen
  14. There are lots of ways to clamp on an auxiliary fence, but I wanted a more direct solution, so tried this. 1. Remove T-Glide fence plate 2. Mount T-nuts from the inside of fence plate 3. Bolt on any auxiliary fence Feels solid and says vertical Photos below and video here: https://youtu.be/D6Nx37Pu7Nc
  15. Maybe use some of that nitrile rubber cork to line the inside of wedges. It is quite grippy. Also the Bessey clamp, mentioned in the video, has an adjustment screw, under the handle, that can be set for up to 500 pounds pressure.