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Drawdoow's Achievements

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  1. UPDATE: One year later. As shown in the original post video, the sled is made with two runners and the runners do not have to fit snug in the table saw miter slots. One year later, having gone through the four seasons of humidity, I find the sled is a little loose in the runners. Other sleds I made with a single snug fitting runner have not become loose. My conclusion is that one runner is better than two, as long as the single runner can be made to fit snug in the miter slot. Here is a video showing how to cut snug fitting runners:
  2. I have used cross cut sleds and miter sleds for many years but never had a bevel cutting sled. Bevel cutting sled does the same job as miter sled. However, the length of miter sled cut is limited to the height of table saw blade, while a bevel sled cut is limited only by the size of the sled. Found the bevel sled made it easy to make a mitred corner box that went together clean and square. Properties of this sled that contribute to precise cuts: Fence on the miter sled was calibrated by 5-cut method to get it dead square to the blade. Stops on the miter sled fence ensure that the length of box pieces are exactly the same. Clamps on both fences keep the material flat on the base during the cut. Tight fitting UHMW runner eliminates any play between the sled and saw table. Video showing construction of sled and how to make a box using the sled.
  3. This corner clamp is easy to make with table saw. Wooden wedges clamp the material and keep it square. Four of these clamps, resting on a flat surface, will keep the project square and level. They are now included in my clamping arsenal. Video: https://youtu.be/BfYqk_x_aDo
  4. I've been using crosscut sleds for many years but never bothered with fancy stuff like flip stops. As I had to make new sleds for new saw, decided to give accessories a try, and found they are helpful. I made the fence height the same on both of my sleds so that same accessories could be used on both sleds. The accessories I made are shown in photos. There is a video as well but the photos tell the story: Flip up stop blocks with magnets to hold the blocks up and magnets to hold the blocks down. Bolt on fence extensions so that the stop blocks can be used for cutting pieces longer than the crosscut sled. A sliding stop for cutting pieces too small to hold or clamp. I am interested in other sled accessories that you have found helpful.
  5. I made a standard size crosscut sled, then found that I was often cutting smaller pieces that would be better suited to a smaller lighter sled. Some features implemented on the small sled: Fence was aligned using five cut method, with a sacrificial fence. Bessey clamp to hold small pieces that would be unsafe to hold by hand. Clamp slides in a T-track that is secured to base with epoxy Fence is designed so that accessories can be swapped between the sleds
  6. Had some difficulty making the juice groove on a round cutting board, until I came up with fixture shown in thumbnail, which uses a router, and two ball bearings to guide the cutting board. Arrow on fixture shows direction to rotate the cutting board so that spinning router bit does not push it away from the ball bearings.
  7. Must depend on the saw. I found much less dust with zero clearance, as show in the this brief comparison video
  8. Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss. With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it is easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time. Locate the probe of dial indicator over the fence rail so that dial indicator does not change when the fence is tightened - see red circle in photo below. A couple of times I have found this fine adjustment helpful: 1. Cutting UHMW runners to fit nicely in the miter slot for floats 2. Cutting mortise and tenon joints on table saw, to get a good fit. For all other work I just use the measuring tape built into the fence rail. The table saw cut usually gets run over the jointer anyway. Video Demonstration: https://youtu.be/MZu0JvW1g3k
  9. I agree. The shop made inserts real advantage is with dado sets because you can have one for each dado width. Also the blade guard does not work with dado anyway, so no downside in that regard.
  10. That is one disadvantage of the shop made insert: The blade guards that replace the riving knife don't work because the slot in the insert would have to be so long that the insert would be too weak. Have to use the overhead type blade guard.
  11. The bottom of a SawStop insert is difficult to replicate in a shop made wooden insert. If we limit the application to vertical cuts, and exclude maximum height of the blade, then the insert becomes much simpler, and still works most of the time. Wooden inserts have the advantage of zero clearance around the blade. Also they are quick to make and low cost so you can have one for each dado width. Drill pattern for SawStop insert is shown in photos below
  12. Shop made wooden insert does a better job of keeping dust below the table. Made a short video to confirm the difference: https://youtu.be/blBJ-EKZb7c
  13. My old sleds did not fit on new table saw, so I gave my old sleds to the guy who bought the old saw, and set out to make new sleds. Did some research on best practices in table saw sled construction, and found some great ideas that were new to me, and also came up with some ideas of my own. But I did not find an instruction that pulled together all the great ideas. Therefore made this video showing how to make a versatile and precise miter sled. https://youtu.be/yJbVyA8rqYA Some ideas incorporated in this design are: 1. Used a single UHMW runner. Found this to be just as good as the two runner sleds that I have always made. An advantage of a single runner is that changes in humidity that affect the dimension of the base will not cause the runners to bind in slots. A single runner does require a snug fit in the mitre slot. 2. Make a perfect right angle triangle of MDF, to be glued to the base, and then use that as a guide to set the fences perfectly. Orient the MDF triangle for perfect 45 degree cuts using a new method shown in the video. 3. Threaded inserts in the miter fences, allow auxiliary fences to be bolted on. Long auxiliary fences for long pieces, and special auxiliary fences for making precise picture frames without measuring.
  14. Inspired by the book: “Shop Machines” by John White, I found that I could get excellent results with shop made fixtures. The only expensive thing to purchase is a good dial indicator. Blade alignment on a table saw should be checked at three blade positions: 1) vertical at maximum height; 2) vertical at minimum height; 3) bevel 45 degrees at maximum height. Some table saws, such as SawStop ICS, have separate adjustment for each of these alignments, but even on a saw without separate adjustments it is good to know what the alignment errors are. Most instructions for alignment say to measure off of the blade. A better approach is to replace the blade with a rigid arm. I used 1/2 inch phenolic for the arm. An arm has two advantages, over a blade: 1) deviations on the dial gauge are amplified, which gives a better indication of the alignment error; 2) when the blade is at minimum height the arm still projects above the table so a standard dial gauge can still be used, whereas with a blade, a special vertical dial gauge would be required. Photos and Video below
  15. There are lots of ways to clamp on an auxiliary fence, but I wanted a more direct solution, so tried this. 1. Remove T-Glide fence plate 2. Mount T-nuts from the inside of fence plate 3. Bolt on any auxiliary fence Feels solid and says vertical Photos below and video here: https://youtu.be/D6Nx37Pu7Nc