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Everything posted by Drawdoow

  1. I have used cross cut sleds and miter sleds for many years but never had a bevel cutting sled. Bevel cutting sled does the same job as miter sled. However, the length of miter sled cut is limited to the height of table saw blade, while a bevel sled cut is limited only by the size of the sled. Found the bevel sled made it easy to make a mitred corner box that went together clean and square. Properties of this sled that contribute to precise cuts: Fence on the miter sled was calibrated by 5-cut method to get it dead square to the blade. Stops on the miter sled fe
  2. This corner clamp is easy to make with table saw. Wooden wedges clamp the material and keep it square. Four of these clamps, resting on a flat surface, will keep the project square and level. They are now included in my clamping arsenal. Video: https://youtu.be/BfYqk_x_aDo
  3. I've been using crosscut sleds for many years but never bothered with fancy stuff like flip stops. As I had to make new sleds for new saw, decided to give accessories a try, and found they are helpful. I made the fence height the same on both of my sleds so that same accessories could be used on both sleds. The accessories I made are shown in photos. There is a video as well but the photos tell the story: Flip up stop blocks with magnets to hold the blocks up and magnets to hold the blocks down. Bolt on fence extensions so that the stop blocks can be used for cut
  4. I made a standard size crosscut sled, then found that I was often cutting smaller pieces that would be better suited to a smaller lighter sled. Some features implemented on the small sled: Fence was aligned using five cut method, with a sacrificial fence. Bessey clamp to hold small pieces that would be unsafe to hold by hand. Clamp slides in a T-track that is secured to base with epoxy Fence is designed so that accessories can be swapped between the sleds
  5. Had some difficulty making the juice groove on a round cutting board, until I came up with fixture shown in thumbnail, which uses a router, and two ball bearings to guide the cutting board. Arrow on fixture shows direction to rotate the cutting board so that spinning router bit does not push it away from the ball bearings.
  6. Must depend on the saw. I found much less dust with zero clearance, as show in the this brief comparison video
  7. Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss. With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it is easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time. Locate the probe of dial indicator over the fence rail so that dial indicator does not change when the fence is tightened - see red circle in photo below. A couple of times I have found this fine adjustment helpful: 1. Cutting UHMW runners to fit nicely in the miter slot for floats 2. Cutting mortise and tenon joints on table saw, to get a good fit.
  8. I agree. The shop made inserts real advantage is with dado sets because you can have one for each dado width. Also the blade guard does not work with dado anyway, so no downside in that regard.
  9. That is one disadvantage of the shop made insert: The blade guards that replace the riving knife don't work because the slot in the insert would have to be so long that the insert would be too weak. Have to use the overhead type blade guard.
  10. The bottom of a SawStop insert is difficult to replicate in a shop made wooden insert. If we limit the application to vertical cuts, and exclude maximum height of the blade, then the insert becomes much simpler, and still works most of the time. Wooden inserts have the advantage of zero clearance around the blade. Also they are quick to make and low cost so you can have one for each dado width. Drill pattern for SawStop insert is shown in photos below
  11. Shop made wooden insert does a better job of keeping dust below the table. Made a short video to confirm the difference: https://youtu.be/blBJ-EKZb7c
  12. My old sleds did not fit on new table saw, so I gave my old sleds to the guy who bought the old saw, and set out to make new sleds. Did some research on best practices in table saw sled construction, and found some great ideas that were new to me, and also came up with some ideas of my own. But I did not find an instruction that pulled together all the great ideas. Therefore made this video showing how to make a versatile and precise miter sled. https://youtu.be/yJbVyA8rqYA Some ideas incorporated in this design are: 1. Used a single UHMW runner. Found this to be just as good
  13. Inspired by the book: “Shop Machines” by John White, I found that I could get excellent results with shop made fixtures. The only expensive thing to purchase is a good dial indicator. Blade alignment on a table saw should be checked at three blade positions: 1) vertical at maximum height; 2) vertical at minimum height; 3) bevel 45 degrees at maximum height. Some table saws, such as SawStop ICS, have separate adjustment for each of these alignments, but even on a saw without separate adjustments it is good to know what the alignment errors are. Most instructions for alignmen
  14. There are lots of ways to clamp on an auxiliary fence, but I wanted a more direct solution, so tried this. 1. Remove T-Glide fence plate 2. Mount T-nuts from the inside of fence plate 3. Bolt on any auxiliary fence Feels solid and says vertical Photos below and video here: https://youtu.be/D6Nx37Pu7Nc
  15. Maybe use some of that nitrile rubber cork to line the inside of wedges. It is quite grippy. Also the Bessey clamp, mentioned in the video, has an adjustment screw, under the handle, that can be set for up to 500 pounds pressure.
  16. Built this clip-on infeed support, and found it to be very handy when using sleds, to stop the sled falling off the front of table saw, It provides most of the benefits of an infeed table, and still allows me to move my body right up to the front of saw.
  17. My 30 year old sleds did not fit new table saw due to spacing of miter slots. Gave my old sleds to the guy who bought the old saw, and set out to make new sleds. Did some research on best practices in table saw sled construction and found the following great two ideas that were new to me and perhaps others: Alan Turner in FWW July/August issue 2012, squeezes the two halves of the sled together with a clamp, before gluing the rails in place. This eliminates play in the miter rail guides. Eliminating an annoying source of variation. See my photo below. William Ng demonstrate
  18. Sorry for the confusion. The photo shows a rail of the sawstop being cut shorter using abrasive metal cutting blade. The video shows the table saw.
  19. I work mostly in hardwoods so a wide ripping capability is rarely required. With the SawStop cut down to size, I can still rip 24 inch wide. I also use the saw for crosscut and 45 degree cuts, but always with a dedicated sled that slides in the mitre slots. The one time I would like a large table is cutting 4 x 8 sheets of plywood, but my shop is just too small for that kind of equipment, so I have to cut those sheets down to rough size with skill saw and then trim on table saw. My old contractor saw had a table 24 inch wide, while my cut down SawStop with one wing attached is 34 inch wi
  20. I replaced my 35 year old contractor saw ( 24 x 22 inch table ) with a SawStop, but didn’t want to increase the floor footprint. So which SawStop model would be best for minimizing footprint? The SawStop PCS motor is normally sticking out the left hand side of cabinet, and moves inside when the blade is set to 45 degrees. The SawStop contractor saw motor hangs out the back. The SawStop ICS offered the best floor space efficiency because the motor is normally inside the cabinet, and sticks out under the right hand wing when blade is set to 45 degrees. By installing only the right hand wi
  21. I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and alignment of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting drawer on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot of time. Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig
  22. Byrd had never made a cutter head for Makita 2020, so they gave me the option of sending them the Makita head and they would make a copy, or I could provide an accurate drawing and they would make a Byrd head from the drawing. I decided to go the route of providing a drawing for two reasons: 1) it was cheaper that way. 2) I made some adjustments to the dimensions so that the cutting length of the Byrd head is 8.1 inches instead of 8 inches on the original Makita head. The 8.1 inch length allows the Makita 2020 to now make rabbet cuts. Now that Byrd has made a head for the Makita 2020,
  23. When the cutter head arrived the first thing I noticed was that end cutter at the “wrong” angle. What a disappointment. I contact Byrd to let them know about their manufacturing defect and hopefully send me a replacement head quickly. Well silly me !. The cutter is set on an angle on purpose, so that clean rabbet cuts can be done on the jointer. With normal use of the jointer the odd angle cutter works just like all the other cutters. On the Makita 2020, rabbet cuts are limited to a depth of 1/2 inch, then the wood reaches the casting the holds the bearing.
  24. Upgraded my old Makita 2020 jointer with a Byrd Shelix head. I think this is the first Makita 2020 to be upgraded as neither Byrd nor anyone else had ever made a cutter head for this machine. Here is a YouTube video of the upgrade: Here is a folder with upgrade guide in PDF format, and additional information on Makita 2020 including instruction book and parts list: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1w6LvL5J_PgqRbsTYaWZPupTGUERwunWy In the past, I took the Makita straight blades to a good sharpening shop that returned them with cutting edge grou
  25. Tis the season of covid, so find myself going through old threads. Good to see comments from you fellows as this shows the thread is still active. Likely too late to help IBPJ4, but perhaps someone else can benefit.