CalledtoCreate88

Members
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

CalledtoCreate88's Achievements

2

Reputation

  1. I've already bought some and used it for shelves. It's great - straight, relatively smooth - I have no complaints. I'm not sure it's kiln dried or not. It looks like it's available in Common #1 and FAS1F. I'm not sure which they ordered. Possibly Common #1 because there was a small knot in one of the slabs? Yeah, that's what I was assuming here as well. I have no complaints with it.
  2. Hey, thanks for all the replies. Ragatz, yeah, that makes sense. I guess I was going off of what Wtnhighlander was saying to be cautious about using M&T for a bed. But it makes sense that they'd be plenty strong as long as they're glued, and not used for knockdown joints. Make the headboard like a breadboard but without pegging? So you're saying glue at the top M&T would be strong enough to not need pegging, and the bottom M&T would allow for movement as long as I made the mortise slightly larger than the tenon and left it unglued? Then the "cross brace" under the headboard would make it unnecessary to glue the lower M&T of the headboard? Just making sure I'm following correctly. As for the slats, I like the T slat idea better than having a center support. And I definitely wasn't planning on using plywood. We like the mattress to remain as firm as possible. So 3/4" x 4" wide slats with 3/4" x 2" legs under the slats. Sounds like a good plan. Definitely appreciate it. Wow, I knew it was a good price on the oak, but I didn't know it was THAT good. I have a local cabinet shop that lets me order through them at their price, and it's S3S, which is great because I don't have a planer or jointer. Wow, this is gonna be a chunky bed. Right now? Only a table saw, a random orbit sander, and a ryoba and dozuki Japanese saws (and some measuring tools of course). But as I said, I'm just formulating a plan at this point and buying tools as money allows. Next on the list are chisels, a jigsaw, a jack plane, a bit and brace, and mortising gauges.
  3. Thanks for the reply. I was afraid that was going to be the case. I half-guessed that if it truly would work, then somebody would have done it by now. I'll probably go with a stub tenon and bed bolts as that seems to be the most reputable option. With the bed bolts, I would have to raise the head/foot rail higher or lower than the side rail, correct? Otherwise the bed bolts would meet in the post. Are there any alternatives to this that I'm not thinking of? I like the idea of a half dovetail tenon, but I think it's a little more complicated than I'm willing to take on so early. Can you expound on the I-beam slats that you mentioned?
  4. First let me say that my plans are a bit in the distance at this point. I'll be practicing with glue ups, joinery, saw work, etc. before I actually attempt to build a bed, but I've been mulling it over for quite a while now and would like some formal input from those more experienced. I'd like to make a simple queen size platform bed with a slanted headboard (sorry, haven't figured out Sketchup yet). I'm planning on mortising the side, head, and foot rails into the posts, but I'd prefer not to use any of the standard bed hardware. That means I need a creative way to be able to break it down for moving/installing. Draw-bored mortise and tenons have appealed to me, but I know that normally they are meant to be a means of permanently fastening a joint (with or without glue). Now here's my (admittedly amateur) thinking...what if I were to use tapered brass rod for the draw-bore pins at the side rail-to-headboard and side rail-to-footboard joints, and leave them a little long so that they can be pulled out and the joints disassembled? This would leave me with a standard bed assembly: headboard, footboard, and separate side rails. As for the question of wood, it seems I can get red oak relatively cheap (6/4 for $2.19 bd/ft). It seems to be one of the more affordable in my area, and I find that I like it sufficiently. We've made a couple shelves out of 6/4 red oak already. Would you advise against an amateur testing and growing his skills on this stuff? I'm open to a challenge, I just don't want to be foolish. And finally, dependent on the previous question, I've read mixed ideas about the thickness as well as the width needed for side rails, foot/head rails. For the side rails I would be gluing and fastening a cleat to the inside of the side rails (1x1 poplar?) for the slats to rest on. So surely I don't need 6/4 oak for side rails. Should I use 4/4? 5/4? And how wide is safe/standard, 7"? I've thought about preparing for wood movement in the headboard as well. My plan is to glue up a panel from solid wood (3/4 oak?), cut 4 tenons (one near each corner), and mortise it into the posts. I would glue and pin the upper tenons into the posts, and leave the bottom tenons unglued but pinned like the outer tenons of a breadboard end style table, with oblong holes drilled into the tenon. Theoretically this would give the frame stability in the upper headboard and posts to prevent racking, and the pins in the lower headboard would also prevent racking, but allow for wood movement. I know those are a lot of verbal plans with little visual support, but I've attached a photo for the general idea I'm going for (though it doesn't have a slanted headboard that I'm planning). Alright, pick away. Poke holes in my plans, or give me the go ahead. What do you think?
  5. Yeah, for sure. I'm excited to put it to good use! Thanks for all the ideas.
  6. I could be off on my terms here as I'm new to woodworking. But I work at an auto shop as a mechanic, and we share a building with a cabinet shop that regularly throws away what seem to be good, usable off cuts of melamine. They use it to make cabinets and dressers for a dormitory. It's essentially 1/2" - 3/4" thick particle board with a hard plastic laminate, and the off cuts are often 2' x 3-4'. I've worked here over a year, and they've thrown away so much of it. Having just gotten into woodworking, I'm trying to think of some good uses for it. Off the top of my head I'm thinking about extending the surface of my table saw for a router table. Anything else come to mind? Just looking for inspiration. Also, would the general purpose blade that came with my table saw work well enough to work with the material?
  7. Yeah Definitely not looking forward to experiencing the effects of wood movement. A/C is a necessity here during the summer, but as much as is possible we try to keep the house open for some fresh air, so I'm sure some movement will be inevitable. Though so far the only project it could cause an issue is the bed I'm planning on making. I have a couple ideas to minimize movement in the headboard, one of which is to hopefully find some quarter sawn lumber. Plans aren't finalized for it yet, so we'll see what I can learn by then. As for a planer and jointer...yeah, I figured they were almost a necessity. I've been wondering how so many people make do without them. It is a pretty big investment for me though, especially after buying a table saw. Hopefully I'll be able to find a good used one at some point. Thanks for the good advice, and for the book recommendation. I've already added it to my list. And thanks again for the help, everyone! It looks like I chose a good forum to join
  8. Oooook, I got more than I was asking for with that post...which is great! I welcome all the advice I can get. Honestly, I already agree with all of you. I've never really cared for stain, I just figured that pine would be pretty boring without something to give it some color. If I'll be using hardwoods, I'd definitely try to keep it as close to natural as possible. Thanks for the heads up on General Finishes. Those look like a good option for me. Also, from some of the videos I've watched, it seems many people are using just oil (tung, teak, linseed, Danish) as a finish. What are your thoughts on those? I didn't know that a hardwood dealer would be that much cheaper. Honestly I haven't been to one yet. I have one just 5 minutes away that local woodworkers (from a Facebook group) have recommended, but they've been closed due to Covid. I'll definitely check them out when they open. For reference, I'm in Pensacola, Florida. A question here, what is a "sticker"? As for tool collection and layout, I just bought a house a couple months ago with a 20x24 detached workshop. The former owner tried to do woodworking, but I'm going to have to deconstruct the wrap-around "workbench" he's made in the shop. No solid plans for the shop yet, but I'm a mechanic, so it's gonna be a shared space for mechanic work and woodwork. I currently only have a Delta 36-725t2 table saw and a Dewalt orbital sander - hence why I'm starting out with just shelves as a first project. But I plan to buy tools as I need them for my upcoming projects (end tables, nightstands, bed frame, floating desk)
  9. Hey everyone, this is my first post here. I'm new to this forum and even newer to woodworking. I just picked up a new Delta table saw, got it all set up this past weekend, and for my first "project" I'm planning on making a couple kitchen shelves. Since I'm just starting out, I plan on using dimensional SYP from my local box store because I don't want to be out a bunch of money if (when) I make mistakes. From what I've read, it can be a little tricky to get a good dye/stain on pine because of it's "grain" structure that accepts the dye/stain at different rates. So what are your recommendations for a good finish for a kitchen shelf? I've heard good things about Old Master's Wiping stains, and I'm going for their "Pecan" color. Do you think this would work well with a Poly clear?