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  1. I've already bought some and used it for shelves. It's great - straight, relatively smooth - I have no complaints. I'm not sure it's kiln dried or not. It looks like it's available in Common #1 and FAS1F. I'm not sure which they ordered. Possibly Common #1 because there was a small knot in one of the slabs? Yeah, that's what I was assuming here as well. I have no complaints with it.
  2. Hey, thanks for all the replies. Ragatz, yeah, that makes sense. I guess I was going off of what Wtnhighlander was saying to be cautious about using M&T for a bed. But it makes sense that they'd be plenty strong as long as they're glued, and not used for knockdown joints. Make the headboard like a breadboard but without pegging? So you're saying glue at the top M&T would be strong enough to not need pegging, and the bottom M&T would allow for movement as long as I made the mortise slightly larger than the tenon and left it unglued? Then the "cross brace" under t
  3. Thanks for the reply. I was afraid that was going to be the case. I half-guessed that if it truly would work, then somebody would have done it by now. I'll probably go with a stub tenon and bed bolts as that seems to be the most reputable option. With the bed bolts, I would have to raise the head/foot rail higher or lower than the side rail, correct? Otherwise the bed bolts would meet in the post. Are there any alternatives to this that I'm not thinking of? I like the idea of a half dovetail tenon, but I think it's a little more complicated than I'm willing to take on so early. Can y
  4. First let me say that my plans are a bit in the distance at this point. I'll be practicing with glue ups, joinery, saw work, etc. before I actually attempt to build a bed, but I've been mulling it over for quite a while now and would like some formal input from those more experienced. I'd like to make a simple queen size platform bed with a slanted headboard (sorry, haven't figured out Sketchup yet). I'm planning on mortising the side, head, and foot rails into the posts, but I'd prefer not to use any of the standard bed hardware. That means I need a creative way to be able to break it do
  5. Yeah, for sure. I'm excited to put it to good use! Thanks for all the ideas.
  6. I could be off on my terms here as I'm new to woodworking. But I work at an auto shop as a mechanic, and we share a building with a cabinet shop that regularly throws away what seem to be good, usable off cuts of melamine. They use it to make cabinets and dressers for a dormitory. It's essentially 1/2" - 3/4" thick particle board with a hard plastic laminate, and the off cuts are often 2' x 3-4'. I've worked here over a year, and they've thrown away so much of it. Having just gotten into woodworking, I'm trying to think of some good uses for it. Off the top of my head I'm thinking a
  7. Yeah Definitely not looking forward to experiencing the effects of wood movement. A/C is a necessity here during the summer, but as much as is possible we try to keep the house open for some fresh air, so I'm sure some movement will be inevitable. Though so far the only project it could cause an issue is the bed I'm planning on making. I have a couple ideas to minimize movement in the headboard, one of which is to hopefully find some quarter sawn lumber. Plans aren't finalized for it yet, so we'll see what I can learn by then. As for a planer and jointer...yeah, I figured they were almos
  8. Oooook, I got more than I was asking for with that post...which is great! I welcome all the advice I can get. Honestly, I already agree with all of you. I've never really cared for stain, I just figured that pine would be pretty boring without something to give it some color. If I'll be using hardwoods, I'd definitely try to keep it as close to natural as possible. Thanks for the heads up on General Finishes. Those look like a good option for me. Also, from some of the videos I've watched, it seems many people are using just oil (tung, teak, linseed, Danish) as a finish. What are your tho
  9. Hey everyone, this is my first post here. I'm new to this forum and even newer to woodworking. I just picked up a new Delta table saw, got it all set up this past weekend, and for my first "project" I'm planning on making a couple kitchen shelves. Since I'm just starting out, I plan on using dimensional SYP from my local box store because I don't want to be out a bunch of money if (when) I make mistakes. From what I've read, it can be a little tricky to get a good dye/stain on pine because of it's "grain" structure that accepts the dye/stain at different rates. So what are your recom