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Askland09 last won the day on October 5 2020

Askland09 had the most liked content!

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About Askland09

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    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday May 14

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  • Location
    Newton, Iowa
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hobbyist, boxes, small furniture

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  1. No such thing as a dumb question. Short answer, it depends on what kind of tenons you plan on using. If you're using an integral tenon you'll have to factor in the tenon length into the work piece. For example lets say the total width of the door is 12" and each work piece is 1" in width and you want to sink a tenon 1/2" into each stile. So each rail will have to be 11" before joinery is cut. However, if you're using floating tenons you do not need to factor in the extra material for the tenon and your rail would be 10" going of the example above. Since you'll be adding the extra
  2. Hey Chris, I've built a few coffee tables, my fiance's desk, our hall table, cutting boards, a shoe rack and my niece/nephew's step stool using the machine. Currently I'm in the process of building a lid for a 35 gallon crock for a coworker. Here's the thread of the shoe rack. All of the boards were milled with the 6" jointer. One of the obvious drawbacks with getting the smaller machine is more time gluing up panels. However there are plenty of ways to flatten a larger face with your planer thus allowing you to joint the edge. For us the savings of getting the 6" was wor
  3. Going to add a little bit to my answer (had to cut it off dare they expect me to work at work ). IF you have the finances to do the HH in both I think that is your best option. However, if you can only do one, I think having the HH in the planer would is much more beneficial than the jointer due to how much I personally use it vs the jointer. the heavy usage prompted us to get a HH for the planer so we can have smoother cuts, quieter run times, significantly less maintenance, etc. We have not upgraded to the HH in the JJ-6CSDX and the straight knives have worked perfectly
  4. We have the JJ-6CSDX and bought an aftermarket mobile base for it. For the last year it has been a wonderful machine for our 1 stall garage workshop. Took us only an afternoon to unbox, put together and tuned for use. Hope this helps!
  5. A quick google search of hardwood dealers or saw mills near your area would give you some good results. Your location will also play a hand in the availability of hardwoods in your area. Where I'm at there's quite a few smaller operations that I can get wider oak stock, and If you have the ability to mill your own boards buying rough sawn will drastically help in the cost as well. Solid work on the nesting tables and coffee table btw!
  6. I'm making a lid for a large crock for a coworker of mine out of cherry. Basically it will be a panel glue up of 4 boards 5.5" wide. The diameter of the lid will be approximately 22" with a loosely fitting rabbet that will allow it to sit inside the lip of the clay crock. Very simple project, BUT for the life of me I cannot decide how or even if I should put a little handle on the top. I've been given free reign to just make it to the specifications of "looking good". So my fellow woodworkers do I put a handle on the dang lid or not lol. If so how would you orient it? Parallel to the di
  7. My first thought is that island is just soaking the Danish Oil right up. If this is a refinish job it could be that the old finish that was on there before is still lurking in that spot not allowing the oil to actually penetrate which I think would cause the old sheen of the original finish to hold true. I think a picture would tremendously help the more seasoned eyes on the forums help to diagnose the issue.
  8. And now for some pictures with some finish applied... Again...apologies for the head tilting. I really have no idea how to fix it.
  9. Another leap forward with the build. Switched the uprights to cherry after putting together the walnut and ash it just looked...not great. So I ditched the idea of using extreme contrast. Apologies for the head tilting. I tried to edit the image outside of WTO and it still imported like this. I got it in the clamps early in the morning and everything fit just great. Small gap on the middle shelf of unexplained origin . Still going to add the finishing touches to the uprights in the form of a small chamfer to help go with the profile on the front. However looking at i
  10. Accomplished a little more this weekend on the build. Final thickness and dimension of all the pieces. Went with a solid inch for the shelves and an inch and a half for the uprights. Unlike in Marc's video I'll be using reinforced rabbet joints to hold it all together. Going to get an ash dowel from The Woodsmith Shop to give it a little more support and help hold things together. Added a curve and 45 degree chamfer to the front to help give it a little more detail. Going through the grits right now. Hopefully should have a finished piece by the end o
  11. Decided that I was tired of waiting for parts to put some finish on this dang thing! Enjoy! Wipe on poly was used. Areas unfinished are being kept that way till I get the flocking material and hinges.
  12. The Freud set I have works really well. I run a router plane down the groves fore extra piece of mind and very very rarely does it pick anything up.
  13. I’ve actually considered making a sample board that contains all my usual species that I use finished with the finishes that I like. Now seems like a pretty good time yeah?
  14. It has been brought to my attention by my fiance that we are, indeed, in need of a new shoe rack . So I decided this would be a pretty decent project to start a small journal. The design of the piece will be Influenced by Marc's video he did on a shoe rack. The only material I know that I will be using is ash, which will be the shelves of the rack. I'm a huge fan of the prominent grain and some of the wild figure you can get from species. It also doesn't hurt that between my father and I we have about 200 5/4 BF of the stuff, ranging in widths of 8-12" that was purchased a while ago. How