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Everything posted by Askland09

  1. Finally got all of the base board and shoe put on through out the house this weekend. It's starting to feel a little bit more like home with every small improvement.
  2. I definitely pictured something different when I threw out the drawbore idea (which clearly wouldn't work for this ). The dado w/ stub tenon or a stopped sliding dovetail are significantly more practical.
  3. Is it within the realms of the design to drawbore it and match the dowel grain as best as possible? Or even stop it just before it protrudes out the front?
  4. Finished product! Decided since this was my first time solely using hand tools for sawing, flattening, dimensioning, jointing, etc I’d start off with something pretty easy like a cutting board. It’s nothing special, but was a nice little training exercise.
  5. This typically happens when you're moving the sander too quickly or using too much downward pressure on the sander causing it to dig into the surface rather than letting the tool do the work. It also might take a while for the sander to remove all the weathered material/stain. Once down to bare wood though you should see most of the linear scratches disappear but will somewhat visible until you proceed through the grits. Another issue might be with the type of random orbit you're using. If the pad is square/rectangular it can leave linear scratches like this. However if you're using a circular pad its more likely going to give you swirl marks that will eventually go away to the naked eye the higher grit you go to. However, I'm not an expert, but in my experiences this is what I've noticed. Hope this helps. EDIT: Stumpy Nubs has a really good video about this. Link below
  6. It is a low angle jack plane that I recently bought brand new. I have a couple of older planes that haven't seen or been touched for about 20+ years that I'd like to bring back into a working state. However, I wasn't sure how a good plane was supposed to work so now I have a pretty good benchmark to hopefully get them up to snuff.
  7. Little case of the Monday’s today...
  8. Congrats Mark! Looks like I’m taking a few hour road trip this fall to see it in person
  9. Needs a little bit finessing yet, camber the edges and there’s a very very slight low spot in the middle
  10. Finally getting a chance to use my new hand plane, and it appears to be working pretty well.
  11. If you're using the factory blade I'd highly recommend tossing it and investing in a better blade. Other than that the tricks and tips above should drastically help.
  12. Hope everything goes well!
  13. Looking good so far! Should be fun to watch to the progress.
  14. Steering away from table saws I think a nice plunge router with a table is going to be worth its weight in gold for any new shop. I have the 2.25hp variable speed Bosch which is just behind the table saw in its daily use.
  15. I've had a lot of success with Old Master's Tung Oil finish. It is definitely a blend but goes on very simply and smoothly with a wipe on method. I have the luxury of getting lint free towels/applicators from my profession that would normally go in the trash can if not taken by employees. However I have used the Minwax tung oil finish as well and it's turned out fantastic. Read the can and follow the directions to a "T" is the only advise I'd have when using the Minwax Cheers!
  16. So..if I wanted to commission a walnut door....??? Great work!!!
  17. First coat of finish on and I couldn't be happier
  18. Decided if I was going to use walnut I should probably do proper mortise and tenon joinery . Top will be held with a couple figure 8 fasteners.
  19. Hello Fellow Woodworker's! Just another step stool that i made for my niece and nephew. Hope you all enjoy! Just needs a nice little round over on all the sharp edges yet, some sanding, and finish. The lumber came from a walnut tree that was damaged after the derecho that hit the Midwest this last summer. Cheers! Luke
  20. No such thing as a dumb question. Short answer, it depends on what kind of tenons you plan on using. If you're using an integral tenon you'll have to factor in the tenon length into the work piece. For example lets say the total width of the door is 12" and each work piece is 1" in width and you want to sink a tenon 1/2" into each stile. So each rail will have to be 11" before joinery is cut. However, if you're using floating tenons you do not need to factor in the extra material for the tenon and your rail would be 10" going of the example above. Since you'll be adding the extra 1/2" on each side by sinking a 1" tenon 1/2" into the end of the rail on each side. Hope this helps.
  21. Hey Chris, I've built a few coffee tables, my fiance's desk, our hall table, cutting boards, a shoe rack and my niece/nephew's step stool using the machine. Currently I'm in the process of building a lid for a 35 gallon crock for a coworker. Here's the thread of the shoe rack. All of the boards were milled with the 6" jointer. One of the obvious drawbacks with getting the smaller machine is more time gluing up panels. However there are plenty of ways to flatten a larger face with your planer thus allowing you to joint the edge. For us the savings of getting the 6" was worth the extra work. It's also grown my ability to color and grain match (I think anyways?). All of this my own personal opinion. Cheers, Luke
  22. Going to add a little bit to my answer (had to cut it off dare they expect me to work at work ). IF you have the finances to do the HH in both I think that is your best option. However, if you can only do one, I think having the HH in the planer would is much more beneficial than the jointer due to how much I personally use it vs the jointer. the heavy usage prompted us to get a HH for the planer so we can have smoother cuts, quieter run times, significantly less maintenance, etc. We have not upgraded to the HH in the JJ-6CSDX and the straight knives have worked perfectly fine for a couple weekend warriors.
  23. We have the JJ-6CSDX and bought an aftermarket mobile base for it. For the last year it has been a wonderful machine for our 1 stall garage workshop. Took us only an afternoon to unbox, put together and tuned for use. Hope this helps!
  24. A quick google search of hardwood dealers or saw mills near your area would give you some good results. Your location will also play a hand in the availability of hardwoods in your area. Where I'm at there's quite a few smaller operations that I can get wider oak stock, and If you have the ability to mill your own boards buying rough sawn will drastically help in the cost as well. Solid work on the nesting tables and coffee table btw!