Jar944

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About Jar944

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Millwork and Cabinetry

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  1. Interesting that seems surprisingly low compared to what I'd expect. I haven't run a rk as the Lennox woodmaster ct is available for less than half the cost. Iirc I paid $135 shipped for a 13'8" 1.3t woodmaster ct.
  2. A large number of saws can't tension a 1" carbide blade to 25,000psi (including some felders). The width rating is typically what will fit on the wheel and where it can generally tension a carbon steel blade at 15000 to 20000psi What are you trying to gain with a wider blade? Beam strength increases with width, but you need increased tension to get the performance. Most people go with a 1" carbide because there is no reason to go wider as there is no performance gain. Some would do better with a 3/4" blade and more psi.
  3. I can understand the space issue. No matter how little or how much space is available it somehow gets filled up with stuff. I can also understand someone who is just woodworking as a leisure hobby isn't interested in getting it done as fast as possible. Understandable, we all have a tool priority list. My original point (that has been lost along the way) was that a shaper is a useful shop tool that can fit well in a home shop (and doesn't have to be all that expensive compared to a router)
  4. Except that video *is* of a cabinet shop and they are not running weaver shapers. I think if you look Karl is running 3 or 4 SAC t120s and a older scmi t160.
  5. Jack, nice post edit after the fact there. I'm Not sure where I bragged about having a shaper over there You seem to be reading into things that aren't there, and for some reason irritated by me. The guy asked a question about running production with router vs a shaper. I did say bigger is better in shapers though and ill stand by that statement all day long. But that was a different thread, and this is about shapers in the home shop..
  6. Not saying you don't know what you are talking about. There are about 100 ways to skin a cabinet cat. (Id like that ritter door clamp if i had more space) This was off a woodweb thread. And since you posted a ritter door table, here is a ritter double spindle cope machine.
  7. Different shops different methods. Bigger shops running sticking on a moulder are coping after. Again I didn't come up with it, it just works with my work flow. Sogncabinets (not running a moulder) turned me on to left and right copes. Run sticking, cut to length, cope. Keeps those 3" long rails from being sucked into the head, without having to use a jig. Yes the track feeders or dc70 would work better for shorts.
  8. Maybe more applicable to furniture and the more typical home shop. Patern shaping Tenoning. These are short little stub tenons but a 4" long tenon is cut the same way
  9. I do have some $ wrapped up in cutterheads and knives. But surprisingly most of the stock profile 40mm pin knives i have were only about $7 each. Now in all fairness they are usually $14 but router bits would have been more than that.
  10. With a router you can only cope a rail in one direction (Because you can't run a router in reverse) it leaves you with two options. 1. Cope before sticking (cleans up the tearout) 2. Cope after sticking using a profiled backer (reverse of the door sticking profile) on 1/2 of the copes and a square edge on the other half. It works but you have to keep resetting the profiled backer after a few cuts to keep the tearout down. Running left and right coping cutters (clockwise and counter clockwise) allows you to cut from the profile toward the square end on both sides of the rail. It
  11. Yes im aware this is a hobby forum. That was the point bringing up the shaper in the home shop. I'm already on woodweb, but they know the advantages of shapers over there. I still think a shaper is a better tool for the home shop than a router table. As for my shop ill post something up in the correct forum, once I browse around to figure out where that is. I dabble in cabinets, millwork and furniture on occasion.
  12. Another shaper benefit that you can't with a router. Left and right coping. Easier if you have a double spindle shaper (or a couple single spindles)
  13. You can't blowout the endgrain if you flip the door so you are always cutting towards the rail when going across the end grain like i did in the video. Yes the edge sander is certainly more common at fitting inset doors. Not necessarily more useful overall if you are starting from rough lumber though. I didn't invent fitting doors on a jointer either.
  14. Not going to disagree there a edge sander is a lot better on door edge cleanup than a DA Though I size doors on a jointer
  15. I Don't see the point of the cordless, but I might pick up the attachment for my ets ec 150. Nothing worse than rounding over the edge on a inset door with a tight reveal.