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Everything posted by skiback46

  1. I think this post is interesting/enlightening. I don't have a drum sander so I may be wrong, but I think throwing the glued up assemblies through a drum sander would create more sanding for you to do after, since all the rails would be sanded across the grain, and you would have to work to get all those scratches out. I spend a lot of time thinking about efficiency since like most hobbyists I have other commitments (job, family, other hobbies). For me the biggest improvements in efficiency have come from rethinking the workflow, and not necessarily a specific tool. In the case of the kit
  2. My shop is in a basement that was finished prior to our purchase. The basement has laminate flooring. In terms of durability it is fine, no signs of wear after 2 years in the shop (rolling bases, dropping wood, clamps, glue etc.) The biggest downside to the laminate is that it is very very slick, especially with a little sawdust. I haven't found a solution yet, so I use some rubber/foam mats, but even those slide more than I would like. I found some anti-slip coatings, but haven't tried them yet. Whatever product you choose, think about the finish. This is the coating
  3. If it scratched the sole of your plane, my guess is there is still some grit from sanding (which will have a negative effect on whatever sharpening you did). I had that happen on one of my first cutting boards, now my rule is sandpaper only after all the planing is done. As far as tear out; always go from the long grain to the end grain with your strokes(or skew) and not the other way
  4. If you finish like Todd does on edge with a single cut file you do end up with a tiny tiny burr (Don't go back to the faces). It won't be as robust as one that is turned, and can sometimes leave tiny tracks due to the cut of the file, but the tradeoff is in time spent sharpening. I've done it both ways, and I prefer turning a burr, but if I'm in a rush, or working something gnarly that quickly dulls the scraper I'll just use the file.
  5. There have been a couple times when I wanted 1/2" stock, and will buy 5/4 or 6/4 and resaw rather than 4/4 and do a lot of planing. So perhaps your face frames don't have to be 3/4"...maybe you could eek out 2 5/8" thick boards from your 6/4 and double your yield.
  6. Its hard to tell from the pictures. But one quick way to check is to look at the grain direction of the Y. One of the branches its clear that the grain runs diagonally. If the tenon were a true through tenon, the grain would run in a very similar direction on the outside of the leg as it did on the inside. From the pictures its hard to know if the outside pictures are the same as the inside pictures. As far as whether Stickley did or did not use faux tenons; I don't know. The best place to look would likely be in Bob Langs Books. In "Arts and Crafts Furniture Projects" he not
  7. From the spec sheets there is no real difference (206 vs 207) in pot life (20-25 vs 22-26 min) or thin film working time (90-110 vs 110-120) With the benefit to 207 being clear and reduced blush and anecdotaly less bubbles
  8. I have recently been looking into epoxy (have some knots to fill and a complicated glue up). I was looking for the strength comparison between 206 and 207. The difference isn't applicable to furniture stresses : Is there any reason (other than cost) to not use 207 for everything? In doing so I found the datasheets. The datasheets specify that 1:3 and 1:5 ratios are by volume, and not by weight (which makes sense since the pumps are a specific volume). The datasheets do contain the ideal weight ratio (for 207 its 3.64) and and accepta
  9. I agree. Get the space ready. Figure out a couple projects you want to build, and start with tools that get you there....Acquire tools as your projects/budget allows. While its nice to have an "instant" shop, it's better to use what you've got. This is particularly important if your shop space keeps changing...that small saw you bought cause it fit in the 1 car space will not seem like the best purchase once in the the larger space...and the opposite is also true. Plus not having all the tools upfront means you come up with more creative solutions to problems, that will accelerate your le
  10. I have put ARS on top of shellac before, and not had any problems. I found that initially I got the plasticy look when I put it on too thick, or as Terry suggested not wiping off the excess soon enough. While you can't wipe the excess shellac off (dries too fast) it too should be a very thin coat. As far as what/if you put anything under ARS, it you need to; no. But if you want to age cherry a bit, I have found BLO then in the sun then ARS darkens it more than ARS in the sun. When I have used dyes and gel stain as a glaze I will use shellac in between as a sealer before ARS (
  11. I have neither. But I have thought about upgrading my planer(the even lazier 734), originally was thinking the 20" helical. Seemed like something I would never out grow. I was fully convince that was the right path, till my shop moved. Then I started to think about what I really would need. I don't regularly buy lumber that is wider than 15" (or 8" for that matter). So really the value of the 20" would be in panel glue ups....but then the question is when do I have panel glue ups that are >15" and <20". Add to that most 20" planers are 5 HP drawing 19 A requiring a minimum circuit
  12. skiback46

    Hand saw?

    I have the Lee Valley dovetail and carcass saws. I think they are great, and at a very good price point. I have used their larger saws a couple times and they were fine as well. They are sharp on arrival, but after sharpening my dovetail saw the performance was outstanding, so a quick pass with a file wouldn't hurt. The other nice thing about the Lee Valley saws, is they have made available patterns for the handles. You could adjust the dimensions to fit your hand, just keep the shaft hole and mating surface consistent: As far as han
  13. skiback46

    Hand saw?

    I would not buy it. It is pretty recent, based on the aluminum medallion and the shape of the handle. I like the Disstons from before 1930ish. The reason I would not buy this saw is the plate is pretty rusty for newer saw and is probably not great quality steel, the handle would not be comfortable (and is not sized for a typical 3 fingered grip), also the hang looks really high to me. It is properly priced though. Almost any saw that buy buy used (CL eBay or other) is going to require a little the very least sharpening, and more than likely a bit of jointing, and cleaning.
  14. Shannon Rogers did something similar as an add on to his joinery bench. In the video it seems like it worked pretty well, but he ended up giving it away for a reason I don't recall. Since he had a full size bench I don't think he used it a ton. I have often thought about making a small portable bench that I could take with me;something like this or the Milkman's bench that was in Popular Woodworking a while ago...though you need a table for that bench.
  15. I have a couple bookcases and a few other pieces that I only finished with shellac. They are holding up fine (through plenty of use and 2 moves). Is there a reason you are looking for a different topcoat? Shellac has been used for a long time with nothing (save some wax) on top. If you want a different sheen you can sand it a bit with 600 or something, or just apply some wax, and buff to the sheen you want. Additionally while many people report not having issues applying another finish on top of waxed shellac (which is what Zinnser Amber is), there is at least a theory that anothe
  16. Tom, where did you purchase that?
  17. I have the Oneida Pro1500. I have probably filled the drum 20+ times. I have never seen that much dust in the filter "bin" or even in the filter. I did end up with some shaving & some dust the once or twice I ignored the flashing light, and overfilled the drum. But that was the only time I ever saw anything in the filter clean out. That said I don't have a drum sander. My first guess was the drum was too full when you started sanding. How long is the flex hose between the cyclone, and drum? You may only be able to fill it 80-90%if that flex hose is really short. Or maybe you
  18. Looks like stanley sells replacement blades (12-142):
  19. Lie-Nielsen still makes a 62. I think they kept the plane sizes the same. The main issue people have had with new blades is they are thicker than the old ones. This is likely less of a problem with bevel up blades. I would call them and ask if it would fit a vintage one.
  20. Intentional practice. as an example: don't just cut to the line...but study your cut after/as you do. Adjust your body as you cut to make it feel natural. Try to make correctness/proper technique routine. Don't settle for good enough. Don't be afraid (if you can afford it) of buying more wood. Replacing a screw up always looks better than a repair. Study the pieces you've made (And others works), think about what you would do differently...find the mistakes. Don't dwell on them, but remember them for next time. Don't stop enjoying the work. If there is one particular task you dre
  21. If you want it for endgrain low angle is the way to go. You can always put a higher angle on the iron (or a second iron) if you decide you want it as a small smoother, but you can't grind down the angle on the plane. I like having a non-skew blade for ease of sharpening, and you can almost always just skew the plane. The difference between Lie-Nielsen and Veritas is going to be personal preference. I have the Veritas block plane, and the LN rabbet block and there is no difference in quality, pick which ever one feels right in your hand. the LN being narrower, the Veritas maybe a litt
  22. I think the best approach is the one you already took. I have had stain take 3-4 days to feel dry to the touch and be safe for coating with a film finish. Especially if it is cool and humid (which is likely in a basement). When you say you let it sit for 15 minutes, I assume you wiped it dry after that, right? Each additional coat after the first one will add the dry time, which can be quite a while for oil based. The times I have used gel stain were when I was staining a piece that was lots of vertical pieces (it doesn't drip) and when I was using it like a glaze, on top of a very th
  23. Was the surface prep/wood different on the top from the rest? If you are wanting to have the top match the rest, I think the first thing to do would be to figure out why the stain acted differently. I am not familiar with the term "looser" grain, sometimes a picture can help diagnose. If you used a different wood species or sanded the top to a higher grit that could result in a lighter stain. Have you tried just applying additional coats of the stain already used? Why do you want to go with a gel stain?
  24. The teeth are not pointing down the length of the rasp, but instead at an angle. This is perhaps most noticeable on hand-stitched rasps (the current Nicholson machine cut do not tend to have a preference). The benefit is that you end up with fewer gouges from individual teeth since you are now using almost a skewing motion. In my case I am right handed and grip the tip with my left hand , when I hold the tool perpendicular to the work, and push straight forward i am basically taking a "skew cut". From here: Angle Each rasp is s
  25. I understand the premise of not answering non-local numbers, but remember not everyone that is local has a local number anymore. My cell number is from when I was in high school, and I have moved several times. I am not going to change my number or purchase a landline just to appease leery people on CL.