skiback46

Members
  • Content Count

    115
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by skiback46

  1. I may be misunderstanding your question, but it would seem the dovetails would either have to be quite small, or would interfere with each other for legs when the two aprons are 90* to each other. By making a single tenon close to the height of the apron(width of the apron board), you can maximize glue surface, while not having to cross the center line of the leg. I supposed you could make the whole tenon a sliding dovetail but that seems like an awful lot more work. I think the dovetail over drawers helps make up for the weak shoulder at the top of the leg, and also the minimal amount of glue surface were you to m&T the apron (over the drawer). The below drawer apron doesn't have the issue with the proximity to the end of the leg.
  2. I recently made a stepback cupboard, and I painted it with milk paint. I really like the way it looks and will likely do more projects like that, but like the cupboard will use poplar. I like the way maple looks too much to paint over it.
  3. I am probably about the same as Mel. I try to use handtools for most things, but don't hesitate to use the thickness planer, TS or bandsaw, when that is the best tool for the job (lots of repetition, etc.) I like to think of myself as a handtool woodworker with machine apprentices. I know its corny and over used, but I like the analogy.
  4. I have been wanting to make a shaker style end table for a little big, and have a cutoff from my workbench, that has some interesting figure, and due to the knot placement, would likely look best bookmatched. It seems to me that the joint between the two faces would look best running front to back, but of course this would leave endgrain on the front, which is less than desirable. It seems like this was discussed a bit on the walnut table thread, but I guess what would be peoples preference? When I look at the top of Mel's table it looks like the joint should run front to back, is that what you did? (I guess it doesn't matter since it doesn't have a drawer..but still how would you display it?)
  5. I found a guy a few years ago selling just the fence (no rails) for a Jet Exacta fence...basically a biesemeyer. I made the rail out of 2.5 x 2.5" angle iron, and a 2x3 tube. The only difference between is the corners have a larger round over but it doesn't affect the functionality of the fence. I got them at a metal recycler. I bought enough for a 5 ft fence. I think it was maybe $70.
  6. for both 1 & 2 I hit the back of the plane against my bench. Start somewhat lightly, and gradually hit harder till you achieve the desired affect. When I set my blade I usually set it a little shy than easy it forward with light taps on the iron and then the last one on the wedge to lock it in place for 3; I freehand my moving fillister blade, and I don't sharpen the side, as I don't want it to cut the wood on the side. The blade should be set so that the farthest protrusion of the side (should be at the corner of the side and cutting edge) is in the same plane as the body, I would make sure that its a nice surface, so it doesn't mar or catch on the wall of the rabbet. The other thing to be aware of is the nicker. If its sticking down too far, you will have trouble getting full contact across the blade.
  7. Bastard sawn is where the rings are at ~45* to both the face and the edge. There are a few ways to get it from thicker plain sawn. If these were rotated they would look like the rings on plain sawn (((. On either edge of the board the rings will be close to 45* relative to the face and edge. Additionally depending on the thickness available you can use the middle of the board, by ripping it at an angle when looking at the end grain you would cut out a square diamond [_____<>___]. There's a bit more waste this way but you get the consistent grain you are looking for. Basically look for fairly straight grain. Unless you want to exaggerate the taper and have the grain follow the angle taper instead of the straight side.
  8. Don't know if you do this but extending your index finger and using a "3 finger" grip will help too. Make sure your body is positioned to the right of the saw, and your arm can swing forward and backward with ease (not hitting your side).
  9. You can still get camellia oil at woodcraft. For whatever reason it seems Lie-Nielsen has switched to jojoba oil...same kinda thing. I use camellia oil. I also occasionally use paste wax, usually for saws.
  10. I have done most of those things, in this situation it just made more sense to me to do it by hand...plus i had just sharpened my saw . In this case it was a 10" wide board that had a 1/4"+ cup. Since I was trying to save as much thickness as possible I didnt want to flatten one face. I was mostly concerned about the wood moving once cut down the middle of the cup and less about a straight edge for ripping.
  11. I started out with a more power tools oriented shop. Now I use mostly hand tools. The two power tools I use the most in my now "mostly hand tool" shop are a thickness planer and a bandsaw....these remove the work of thicknessing and long rips. I built my hand tool bench prior to owning a bandsaw, and decided to rip all the maple for the top, before thicknessing. It was cupped and I wanted to have fewer boards to glue up. This would have been dangerous on the table saw, so I did all 40 linear ft of 8/4 maple by hand, with my 4.5 TPI disston. It went surprisingly fast, but had a owned a bandsaw at the time this would have been able to use my arm the next day. I also use it for resawing. I do all my jointing by hand, then feed it through the planer to get the sides parallel. My table saw and router, are not used that often anymore.
  12. I like them narrow enough that it was unlikely a router was used to make them.
  13. I like going over my knife line with pencil because I then see two pencil lines (on either side of the knife line) making it is easy to tell how much line to leave (one of them).
  14. I bought the pro1500 last year, and while I didn't do a video, the setup was really simple. I was able to do it basically by myself (though I wouldn't recommend that route). It came on i think 3 pallets, one for the motor, and the other two for the cyclone and ductwork. The manual(which I think you can download) does a pretty good job on walking you through the setup, I think I only had one question which was specific to my installation and their tech guys were great at getting that answered on the phone. I think I got the cyclone up in one day, then spent another day on the ductwork, which I did have them help me layout, and I am really happy with the layout I got. All the pieces were packed well, and arrived safely. I am really happy with the unit. If you have any questions I can try to remember more specific details.
  15. I used to get some pain behind my elbow, around where the "funny bone" nerve is. I spent some time looking around, and the best I could figure out was I was annoying the nerve there. I think this was due to a combination of things. This pain was on my left arm (toe of the plane) 1)resting my head on my hand, with my elbow on the desk while at work 2) when I was planing I would let the full extension of my arm stop the plane, and I guess that sudden jarring motion wasn't doing me any good 3) the work surface was too high, since I built my bench (I'm 6'4" and my handtool bench is i think around 34"...my old bench was 2-3" higher) I havent experienced it much at all. In my case it seemed to be mostly body mechanics. While I haven't read "The Foundations of Better Woodworking", it is on my list, and look like it could help, especially if you plan to stick with hand tools. (Sharp blades and a slippery sole help too)
  16. I have a somewhat similar shop setup (# tools stationary DC, etc.) I have most of them on mobile bases, originally because layout was tight. But now I haven't moved them in 6 months, and I have semi-hard ducting to the power tools. I have changed the layout in my shop a few times as I added a new tool, or workbench. This year I bought a dust separator and built a workbench, both of these reduced the amount of time I spent setting up for an operation, which completely changed they way I look at each cut/plane/operation. I also seem to turn out projects faster. If I were completely set in the way my shop was set up (getting close) all the tools would be ducted. Right now I still have to switch a couple, and the longer it stays that way the more frustrating it gets, the same for those that share an extension cord. I guess I liked having the mobile bases until I found a setup that works the way I do, and now I am slowly "cementing" it as you say. And now I like that it allows me to expand or (with some grumbling) adjust to fit a larger project as needed. That said, I haven't found the need with my new layout. Just saw your second question...my tools are grouped around the large duct drops, and I have a flex hose just long enough to reach the 3 tools that share it.
  17. I have used a shellac/very thin wiping varnish between the dye and (gel) stain coats (following the more recent Jewitt link you provided), and I think it helps to enhance the rays. I'm not sure why, so this is a guess based on my experience. It seems the pores are smaller in the flecks than outside, so maybe a thin sealer is enough to prevent the stain from sticking in those pores, while the deeper ones, outside the flecks can accumulate more stain. I guess it could be the type of stain, maybe a gel stain works better because it gets stuck in the large pores giving the "field" a darker appearance, while the rays are smooth, so it doesn't stick there. The wiping stain (I assume is more liquid) and when flooding an unsealed surface will absorb into all the wood more evenly....maybe allow it to spend less time on the wood before wiping it. Since you already have all the stuff, I would dry thinning the arm-r-seal to use between the dye and stain, before buy new gel stain. Hope that helps.
  18. I just got a pair of the Gramercy hold fasts, for use in my 4" thick maple top. They didn't hold. I used some 120 or 150 sandpaper sanding around (not up and down) the shaft and they hold great. So if you sanded up and down I would first try sanding around the shaft before counterboring.
  19. I think its ~$15 a year to sign up for FWW online membership, and you have access to ALL articles (including this one).
  20. skiback46

    barn oak

    I have used a bunch of oak from an old barn for my dining room table, and a few other things. One thing I did was to take a hand held beltsander to it to get most of the dirt and stuff off the wood before I jointed and planed it. Definitely saved some time sharpening, and planer blades. Once that first layer of crap was gone it behaved like any other oak.
  21. Some quick thoughts: Most of these apply to "traditional hand tool benches" First: I would think that since the legs are farther apart along the length of the bench the goal would be to minimize wood movement in that direction. Aligning the grain with the long direction prevents movement in that direction. If you did lay them the other way 4 ft. (average distance between bench legs) is a lot of wood to allow to move. Second: Running the boards along the length is stronger when spanning the large space between legs. Third:if you don't a large span between legs....like theres a cabinet underneath, then it just looks nicer less like a floor or ladder If you flatten your bench top with handplanes, you would be able to reference more of the surface when the boards running the length, or you would just get a lot of tearout.
  22. Jeff Jewitt wrote up this article on the different A&C finishes. I don't know exactly the one you are looking for but this might be a start, maybe sample 2?: http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/pdf/mission_oak_rev1-2011.pdf
  23. I can't imagine why it would matter either, I guess I just wanted affirmation that it was worth fixing. Its a quick fix, that no one will see. Thanks. Steve, I was long ago eliminated from the running for the perfect bench, and luckily I haven't drilled for the screws yet.
  24. I have the bench all put together now, and as I was chamfering the ends of the slabs I realized my block plane was hitting the other slab. So I got out my straight edge and checked. I must have bumped one of the slabs a little less than and 1/8" when i was marking for the mortises. the front slab is shifted a little to the right, or the back slab a little to the left. So that means the tail vise sticks out farther than the backslab. I forgot to take a picture last night. So I see a few options. 1) Leave it 2) True up the left end (no tail vise), and leave the tail vise side the way it is. 3) Recut the mortises in the back slab and shim the big side to bring all the ends in line How big of a deal is it if the slab ends line up perfectly?
  25. Most of that style that I've seen can either bolt or lagscrew on. One thing I wish I would have done was to make the face of the vise(or even better, an attached wood faceand one on the chop side too) flush with the front of your bench. Effectively mortising it into the front of the bench. It will just make it so much more useful. Or you can mount it then add a "false" front to bring the front of the bench inline with the vise