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Everything posted by skiback46

  1. The longer I own my router plane the more uses I find for it,and the tighter my M&T joints have gotten, I really like that plane. However if you are having more trouble with keeping your shoulders square and tight, than you are trimming down a tenon just a little (or cleaning up the bottom of a dado or rabbet) then a shoulder plane could be more useful. The shoulder plane can also make a quick substitute for a rabbet plane, not ideal in the long run but it will work. I think the low angle block is probably more common than the standard angle, as many use it for end-grain, and it just fits in the hand nicer. For me I use my number 5 with a cambered blade for fast stock removal, and then either replace it with a straight blade or go to a 7 for getting it nice and square (depends on the piece), for the joinery I find myself able to cut the shoulder pretty well, and can usually clean it up with a chisel if necessary (its typically not very deep so its easy to keep square), then using my router plane to true up the cheeks, I do own a shoulder plane but really only end up using it on large shoulders where paring becomes more difficult, or on joints that I cut really poorly. I have a 4 1/2 for my smoother. I use the low angle block on almost every project, from shortening tenons just a touch, to chamfering all the edges, smoothing any endgrain that shows, and more. I think your next plane should be which ever (shoulder, router, or low angle block) you see the most use for in your projects.
  2. I would have bought that saw too. Its one less tool to upgrade in the future, and you will "never" be limited by your bandsaw after this.
  3. Although with a low angle smoother(bevel up), all you need to do is adjust the sharpening angle on the blade to achieve the 55* where as with a traditional bench plane (bevel down)you would need a new frog. In that way yes a low angle smoother would help the problem provided you sharpen the blade to a higher angle.
  4. While I don't own a bandsaw, I have been looking recently at getting one. Lots of people have really good things to say about the Rikon 10-325. Which is a 14 in 1.5 HP (110 or 220). and for that rare occasion a 13" resaw (which is why I am looking at it). Also I don't know how tall you are (I'm 6'4"), the Rikon has a 39" high table, which I found more comfortable than the SUVs 35" especially for precise cuts. (it looks like the grizzlys have taller tables also) If you can wait for a bit, woodcraft usually has them on sale every couple months for ~850
  5. "That's why a door looks like a door, so that wood can act like wood" -Roy Underhill (in reference to frame and panel construction). I like it because everyone recognizes a frame and panel door, and intuitively knows it is a door, and not a wall, but the reason why it looks like it does is lost to many people. As a result even doors made of plywood, metal and fiberglass, are still made to look "like a door" On top of that, the concept is simple, but the very first wooden doors (after rocks, and animal hides hung in front of caves) were likely just boards that could swell, and get stuck, or shrink and let in drafts and bugs. The recognition of why a door looks like it does, how wood acts, and the connection between them is somewhat unique to woodworkers (anyone who makes things of wood)
  6. I initially was looking at the portable also. I took others advice and called Oneida, and talked to them. Have an idea of what tools you want to hook up, if the DC being moved is a necessity, and how you might expand either of those in the future (a short amount of duct work is a lot cheaper than a new cyclone). In the end their recommendation was for the V3000 (cheaper than the one I thought I wanted). It may be possible to make the V series portable by making your own cart. which may allow you to get a larger machine or just save money, same basic design except how the filter attaches. Later when I mentioned my plans for the future (hopefully moving significantly higher than sea level) they recommended the SDG, but with the way the packages (fill sensor, air flow monitor etc.) the Pro1500 was a better deal and I ended up getting that one, and have been extremely happy with it. Everyone I've talked to has been very helpful in figuring out what machine was best for my situation, and even how to run the ductwork so that expansion is easy, and cheaper. Yes they are trying to sell you something, but my experience was that they wanted to sell me the best machine for me, not just make money.
  7. First, thanks for all the responses, Time is not really an issue, I got a lot farther milling the boards yesterday than I thought I would so I am ahead of the schedule I don't have. That's a good point about having to clean the squeezeout between glue-ups. I think I'll give it a shot all at once. hhh, what type of glue did you use? I was thinking about grabbing a gallon of Titebond 2 Extend, any other recommendations? I like the idea of liquid hide glue, but getting enough, and not having experience with it...I think I will save that for another time.
  8. I have enough wood thicknessed to glue up the two tops, I still need to joint/rip to 4.25 or whatever my thinnest piece is. But my question is after I've done that, I need to glue them up. I don't have a domino, or biscuit joiner, and can't justify it for this build, I know the domino is infinitely more useful, but still not going to buy it (yet). I also don't want to have visible splines, etc, to help with alignment. In the video mark glues up one slab all at once, even with the aid of dominos, there is some misalignment. I am thinking about gluing up only 2-3 boards at a time, that way I can get them close to parallel. I guess I am wondering if it is worth the extra time to do that, or if there is a downside other than time that I am missing? Anybody glued them up in multiple steps? or have another idea for helping with alignment (I plan to use cauls and clamps), that doesn't require a new tool or a lot of work? Thanks
  9. Pushing the limits of your 100 mile circle, but there is a hand tool splinter group of the Woodworkers Club of Houston, that meets on the 4th Thursday of the month, in Sugar Land(the next meeting is the 26th). Also, there are sometimes hand tool classes at Woodcraft(s). And...There's the Homestead Heritage, which offers some really great classes in hand tool only woodworking. I personally haven't taken any, but have talked to many who have, and Frank Strazza and they look great. I live in Katy, and have been getting more into hand tools recently, while I'm not at the level of Shannon et al. I would be happy to share what I've learned.
  10. I just built a table very similar to that. I used drawbored mortise and tenon joints to attach the feet to the legs to cleats. It looks like the table in the link did as well. I think the main "concern" would be if you were to apply force at the very edge of the top cleat, that the joint stay tight, as its almost trying to pull the joint apart (kinda). With either a regular mortise and tenon, or (especially) a half lap you are relying on the glue and shoulders you have to resist that force. The bolts would help, but only if that's the look you are going for. Another nice thing about drawboring aside from it being really strong (even before the glue dries), is that it allows for a not quite perfect fit for your joint, Of course you want your shoulders to be square and flush, but you don't need a "piston fit" for your tenon.
  11. Ron Herman (I think) has one that is somewhere in between. I think there are some pictures of it in Popular Woodworking 191, where he talks about how to size the tools. Also here: I don't know about adding vises...I haven't wanted them in my use. For wood, I would say doug fir, or SWP, something you wont worry about cutting into (most I've seen have been dimensional lumber). The "birds mouth" (I think I've heard it called a ripping notch (hint)) is for ripping, it helps support either side of the cut.
  12. I have not seen any of the course however he does have some videos on youtube, and a blog: And from what I have seen and read it could be a good course (though not everyone agrees with the order of topics he covers) A very recent review can be found here:
  13. Micro-jig is a good after market splitter, and allows for non-through cuts. It is pretty inexpensive too. Make sure you match the kerf of your blade to the splitter thickness. Woodcraft was also willing to order a Biesemeyer splitter with anti-kickback pawls for me (they have a kit for each saw), though those are limited to through cuts, and cost much more than the micro-jig ($120+ vs $30 if I recall). Riving knives are often difficult to retrofit onto saws, as the blade moves independently. I too bought my saw used, and do not have a guard, so I don't have any recommendations for that.
  14. I use epoxy, I haven't had any problems with it. If you want you can dye it also.
  15. I also have had great luck with high points. After going though many screws screwing mdf and rock maple, I got their high strength ones (XT I think). They worked great till they rounded my cheap square drive bit. Luckily they have a hardened steel inserts square bit, which works great, and I doubt you could round that.