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About aliebling

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  1. I have a electric sit/stand desk DIY base kit and glued up a nice wenge and zebrawood top for it. The metal arms for attaching to the top were clearly not made to deal with wood movement. One line of screws is pretty close to the center of the table. I thought about leaving those as normal and reaming out the rest of the holes to allow for breadthwise movement (screws then mounted with washers). Better/less invasive ideas?
  2. Hopefully almost done here! I put on the satin coat and it looks great...except for one ~3/4"x5" streak which remains glossy. I assume my poor wiping technique caused this. I don't really want to have to put another coat of satin on the whole top since the rest looks fantastic. Can I wipe just this strip or maybe just the whole length of the desk in the width of this strip? I definitely feel like my ARS application technique was getting better, but it qas really annoying to have somehow mmissed this one little section!
  3. So i've got 6 coats of gloss on now (I had sanded a bit over aggressively after the first coat so had some dull spots that entailed a few extra coats - I didn't try to spot touch up, but applied new coats to the whole top). There is some streaking showing in the last gloss coat. Do I need to address that with more gloss or can I go ahead and go to satin for my final coat?
  4. I was afraid of that. Worth spending the time to get it right the first time, then.
  5. The desk will have to be manhandled out if the basement and through a couple of awkward doorways. I think I'll give it at least a few weeks just to be safe. Speaking of which: shellac is pretty easy to repair. What's the process for ARS?
  6. Using the Zinnsler on my test scraps came out slightly more yellow than going straight to the ARS. For the record, I really hate finishing (as compared to woodworking). That said, both the shellac and the ARS are pretty forgiving. What's the opinion on drying time for the final ARS coat before the desk can be manhandled? A photo of the finishing in progress.
  7. Ronn: the shellac made the zebra wood slightly yellower than I want. What's the downside of skipping shellac and going straight to ARS?
  8. I'm finishing a walnut and cherry bench and it looks fantastic everywhere except the top of the bench. On the top, there are a number of lighter areas - like maybe I sanded through? Finishing schedule was: Light coat of zinsser bullseye lacquer on the dovetails and through tenons to prevent glue stick during the assembly/glue up 2 coats crystallac grain/pore filler a light coat of tung oil 2 coats of zinsser bullseye lacquer arm-r-seal - so far two coats of gloss (planning on finishing with a coat of satin). I originally thought the lig
  9. When you scrape, do you scrape the whole surface is just where marks are showing?
  10. Working on a bench of walnut and cherry. It's my first project attempting to finish with a smoothing plane instead of sanding. It went well (the cherry was tougher, but the walnut smoothed like butter) and I moved on to finishing. Unfortunately, as soon as I put on a layer of tung oil a ton of previously invisible plane marks suddenly popped. These are not tracks (the plane blade is rounded so the corners don't catch) but rather horizontal marks where (I think) I started a stroke midboard. When I was smoothing, I was getting nice shavings maybe 2/1000th of an inch thick. I had
  11. That makes sense. I'll give it a go in a test joint next time!
  12. I think my feeling about mortise first comes from doing these all by hand. I feel much (much!) more confident chiseling out a perfect mortise and then paring down a tenon to fit it than I do freehand cutting a perfect, straight, square tenon. If I was cutting the tenons on a table saw (or was a better freehand tenon cutter), then I'd feel comfortable cutting the tenons and using them as a template for where to cut the mortises. Machining the joint with a table saw, drill press, and router I'd lay out both sides and I don't think it would matter much which I did first.
  13. Thanks procedure was more or less what Ronn outlined and it worked pretty well. I'm happy with it. The top of the bench attaches to the walls with dovetails, so I need to test fit everything and hope the top (with dovetails) and the shelf (through mortices) match in length. wish me luck! After that, the last bit to do is a support between the shelf I just finished and the top (with the same kind of through mortices above and below) so I've got one more chance to practice these. I'll post up some photos when it's done! Note: I didn't want to cut these on the ta
  14. Sorry are some photos. it wouldn't let me post them from my phone earlier. One side is now done and the fit is great, thought it's not perfect. I did it with lots of straight edge marking, chiseling, test fitting with clamps (which showed the tight spots on the wood) and more chiseling. I can live with the results, but a more reproducible technique would be nice.
  15. I'm building a bench where a center shelf is joined to the middles of the side walls by 4 through mortises (the tenon side looks like a really big finger joint). I cut the mortises first, but wonder if anyone has any recommendations/best practices for fitting the tenons. I laid them out based on the mortises (but extra point, figuring I can trim the ends after they fit), cut them out (probably too conservatively) and have been paring them back with a chisel (due to the lack of space between them cannot use a plane), but it feels like it's going to be hard to keep the ends nice and