JFII

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About JFII

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday March 1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West of Philadelphia, PA
  • Woodworking Interests
    beginner. bent on making cabinet doors and drawer fronts
  1. Very nice. Mixing in with raised panels adds a twist. Fluting looks good too - I haven't been very good so far with my attempts on fluting. and the brushed SS pulls look great too (going to use the same on my cabinets), This i very inspirational thanks for sharing!
  2. I do like that idea. (maybe with just the kerf where it would be - It will be magic to get it right - another trick to learn) Thinking out loud. I liked that door for its simplicity. So before I pay the ransom to to acquire a sheet of quarter sawn red oak I am going to go hunting around town begging for some maple scraps and see how they look with a natural and 1 or 2 other light stains like the pecan stain compared to the oak and see if i can get a decision in my stocking by Friday.
  3. That's what I have been doing for the boards. Been to 9 different places and picked about 60 feet (I have learned to always bring gloves). However the sheets are different the best I have seen is C3. Even had my local guy order it in A3 but what he got he didn't even let them take it off the truck. (I wish he had at least let me see it ) He also ordered me in a plain sawn sheet at was nicely matched but 4 across I just don't want that V (cathedral?) look. I would like some sort natural chaos. Its a waiting game. I think its a holiday slow down on what is available. I may have to wait until af
  4. Thank you, It was just a mock up with some scrap I had. What i am intending to build them with is the stiles and rails will be rift sawn red oak and the panels quarter sawn red oak. with a natural or pecan stain on the stiles and rails and just natural or just poly on the panels. I have also considered maple for the panels (and really liked birds eye when i saw it. Then I saw the price). With the panels I am trying for a slightly lighter color or shading than the stiles and rails. I used a program called MaxCut2 to build me a diagram and cultist so I only need 1 4x8 to do all the panels w
  5. Sir / Ross, Thank you very much for your guidance (apprenticeship?) I hope your thanksgiving was enjoyable. I built a sample from poplar and plywood and made these adjustments to what was shown in the drawing the angle for the bevel is 12° , the bead was cut using a thin kerf blade 1/8" deep. I cut the bead after the bevel but it would have been better to cut it first as it was suggested. Besides from the displeasing stain (pecan) I put on the poplar and even though the miters seemed nearly perfect before glue-up some sort of sideways gravity or my not clamping them correctly caused
  6. Sir, The bead/kerf at the top of the bevel is for the tear out. I was going to test cut it both before and after cutting the bevel. You have given me a good picture of what needs to be done, thank you very much for taking the time to do so. I will post back the results of the project. I added some dimensions to the door profile. John
  7. wtnhighlander I do think you outlined the order in which to work. I just needed to read it again. One thing I am not so clear on is "one pass ... to establishing the center shadow line " Thank you again.
  8. Thank you for the kudos. It is a nice clean look. Yes 2-2.5. No shaper , no joiner - yet(but i do have access for a price). I was reading about using biscuits for the corners (I would rent a biscuit joiner) and make corner jigs for glue up so then don't slide. I was also considering making some sort of adjustable sled for cutting the bevel but unsure i would get consistent results. I saw plans for a miter sled in a Woodsmith spinoff tips and techniques but didn't think it would give me a consistent cut. Should i cut the bead first with a router or table saw? Then the bevels then the corn
  9. I could maybe get them as low as $8.25 per hinge for an off brand compared to less than $2.00. But the size would rule out sliding shelves for the lower cabinets. (hands and knees to reach in)
  10. I hope i posted in the correct section. I am a new wood worker and would like some direction on cutting stiles and rails for cabinet doors and drawer fronts. I started a project to refinish my face frame cabinets. By simply painting them the drawers were falling apart so i new i would have to replace them. I have completed the drawer boxes and have them installed with new undermount slides. I thought I could make new fronts by rounding over some paintable stock. The doors had external hinges and never closed properly always bouncing off the magnetic closures. After my success wi