JFII

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JFII last won the day on November 24 2021

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About JFII

  • Birthday March 1

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West of Philadelphia, PA
  • Woodworking Interests
    beginner. bent on making cabinet doors and drawer fronts

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  1. Well the project is nearing it long awaited end. Left to do is the floor.
  2. JFII

    Bending wood

    Well, Here is what the two pieces of 3/8" look like installed on the counter. The profile was cut with a 30 degree chamfer bit. It was a bear to mount it. I had to drill on an angle before I mounted it threw the face of the counter at an angle so a 2.5" #8 would pull in enough not to be seen after breaking off several screw head till I went to #9 and broke the heads of a couple of them then I went to #10's. You need to use star head screws - Philips forget about it...
  3. JFII

    Bending wood

    Yes about that. Another failure, For now I am just not equipped to bend 3/4" I moved forward with my two pieces of 3/8" glued together. Learned: Some consideration needs to be placed on the form being the same width as the board and on even pressure and distribution of the clamps otherwise the board will twist or deform. Question: is there any safe way to trim the curved board down to size on a table saw? I didn't feel comfortable to attempt it so I trimmed it down with a jig saw, sander then hand sanding knowing if it wasn't pretty straight it will show up when the profile is cut. I attached backer blocks to the ends before cutting the profile.
  4. JFII

    Bending wood

    I have to put more effort into sourcing. Being in the city the woodshops covet there sources - they don't want to be cut out. yes the first guy guy has the press and makes the whole thing look like a cake walk. He goes as far as to only use coal to fire his steamer I have noticed tiny black spots after soaking or raising the grain using city treated water. started using distilled water to raise the the grain.
  5. JFII

    Bending wood

    I have watched both and many more video in both cases these guys are in the business of bending wood. The second video they are layering and I do have a workable piece made up of 2 x 3/8" boards. I am just not happy with the glue line. Considering i need to put a profile on it I was wondering how i should take into account the glue line when choosing a profile. Both boards were bend then glue the first board I let dry for a couple of day leaving in the form and bent the next right on top of it. Left them there to dry out the pull them out of the form glued them the clamped them back in the form. For at least a week. The guy at the top (uses ammonia which i tried - turn the outer layer dark he isn't really bending for show) he said something i didn't understand when he was inspecting and sorting the boards for bending. He mentioned about grain running off and don't think i fully understand is he talking rift sawn but the lines should be straight and not move to and off the edge? Anyone get a fresh turkey and deep fry it on thanksgiving? Yum! John
  6. JFII

    Bending wood

    Yes Vented, I have had 2 boards soak for more than a week. Actual thickness 3/4" 6-8 hours before I bend. I empty the tube and fill it with 160 F water allow drop to 130F then refill with last fill I only allow drop to 150F. before I pull and try. 2x 3/8" - successful, allowed to dry for a 9 days* in the form, glued together and fitted. Although I planed both boards from 3/4" the line down the center is noticeable. IMHO the issue is time and equipment. The tin flashing would tear so I need something that wont. The time it takes to clamp down by hand. I will need to enlist an assistant. Any ideas on a profile that would be good all things considered. I try some on the fails which are piling up but they do smell nice from the fabric softener I used on earlier attempts. (I was hoping for scratch and sniff countertop trim - oh -well) *first set of bends I only allowed to dry for 2 days before I glued and glue failed.
  7. JFII

    Bending wood

    I have been able to bend 1/4" - 3/8" oak pretty easily. I don't have access to anything other than kiln dried. In this case I am stepping up and trying to bend 1" x 3" oak for edging for a counter peninsula. (24" cab so 12" radius) . I am using hot water and bought a steamer that will give about 20-25 minutes of steam. I also have a hand held steamer and that worked with just soaking and then heating with it. But now I am using a 4" pvc pipe (and it has only deflected very little). So My water heater is on HOT and I empty the pipe with wood every 20 minutes and refill 3 or 4 times I have an endcap with a hole large enough for the nozzle of the steamer and open a small vent at the other end put the nozzle in and lock it on. The bigger steamer produces 5 bars or 65psi of steam. which is good right? I made using roof flashing with the ends wrapped around a block screwed to a 10" piece if 1x3 that been adjusted for the length of the board and when the board is finished steaming o put the ends on and screw them into the board so that the flashing is very tight.. I don't have a press but marked the sides of the board for center. I center the board on the form clamp the center and work on one side with clamps. I have tried fabric softener and ammonia (the latter leaving a dark skin on the wood) after i have it clamped i can see the splits forming on the edges or the flashing snaps I see it directly it always looks skin deep until the next morning when you can see its gone most of the way through the wood has what i am calling shredded (wood just pulls apart)and splits I am trying to select boards with the least run off of grain on the edges but after 4-5 fails I took 2 - 1"x3"s planned them down to 3/8" then without the steamer (just the hand held) bent one on the form waited a day or so then bent the second on top without an issue. Except I would rather it not have a seam. Any tips - maybe i should be selecting a different grain? other than to build a real steam box I don't even know how i would heat it
  8. OK what about durability of water based poly vs oil based. Or other oil / solvent based products like lacquer which does have a water based option. What about Tung I don't think it has a water based option. BTW 1) on comparing products The DAFT Lacquer products went on smoother (sprayed or brushed) especially when brushing even though the DEFT brush able lacquer (satin) dam near look like thick milk but dried with a good satin sheen and showed off the underlying wood grain better that the Minwax products which were more opaque. 2) Purdy colored brush in my case a blue one started to leach out the blue color at first rinse and continue leaching color even after several rinses. Don't bother wasting your thinner Purdy will only refund the brush not the thinner you wasted Topic? contact adhesives
  9. I read that and there is a lot to be said about water based finishes. Discussion - why are we still using oil based finishes. Has anyone here been using water based exclusively? I have read they are not as durable. Is that true? Does adding a coat or two make them as durable?
  10. I do not have any equipment to spray except a window fan and a respirator. Before I sprayed the maple sheets i put on 4 coats of brush / wipe on lacquer to get a base built up and sanded coat 3 and 4. leaving nearly zero marks sanded starting with 320 to 400 to 600. I let these coats dry for several hours. When I sprayed I spayed from a can with a handle attachment that has a trigger. It worked great until I noticed 1 drip in the center of the panel. this was unnoticeable until I lightly sanded between every 3 light coats. I sprayed the 3 coats not waiting any time between the first and second and waiting 5 minutes for the third. the coats seemed to have flashed as i was spraying - the spay width on a can is very narrow. I waited an hour or two lightly sanded and shot the next 3 putting the last coat on a bit heavier (by slowing down the sweep) sanded and this time I put the last 2 on heavier I had 2' x 4' sheets of maple veneer spraying 1 sheet at a time. The first 2 sheets (I thought i would only need 2 ) I used Daft lacquer products. I could not have been happier considering with how it turned out. I did not sand the final coat although i should have. the 3rd sheet because I cut 2 panels wrong (they were cut right just the grain would have been going left to right. I used the same method above except I have bought the last of the Daft satin spray so I bought Minwax wipe / brush on and clear satin spray . Although the Daft product was not clear in the can it looked thick milky off white but it produced a very clear satin finish - the Minwax did not the Minwax looks cloudy and obscures the grain. When I first saw this when I was done I thought it was overspray or that I did not give the lacquer long enough between each light coat so I wait as the instructions specified and the result was the same. This was for doors i had cut wrong but were in your face upper doors. So I recut 2 larger bottom doors to fit the upper cabinet doors and used this panel for the less noticed bottom side doors.
  11. More detail What I did was lay the collet nut on a piece of 2"x4" so it was slightly supporting the router and gave 3 sides a whack with a hammer. Nothing. So I went a little harder after the 4th or 5th whack it was loose. I found the no damage to any of the parts. I took the router apart. taking pictures as i opened it. All the face screws need to come out and only the bottom screws that go to the top side of the cover (I took them all out ) be careful of the small piece and spring that are part of the lock on mechanism. it will jump out and hide if you let it. I blew out with compressed air. I checked the brushes and they were fine. (did not disassemble the brush mounts i used a magnifying glass to inspect them) I could not find anywhere on the armature shaft the had any place for a wrench so i reassembled the router. Before I put the collet and nut back on i dialed down the speed to its slowest plugged it and and pulled the trigger. It seemed to spin up fine so i slowly dialed up the speed and there weren't any vibrations. I unplugged the router and screwed on the collet and shoved a long thin screwdriver onto the fan blades and tightened. Here i was making a guess that when the collet nut is tightened onto a bit it it also tightens the collet onto the shaft. reasoning - The threads for the shaft were under the threads for the collet nut. When a bit bottoms out it is bottoming out on the shaft. I put the collet nut on LOOSLY and mounted the router into its table (I did this in case i had cracked the collet nut and when I spun it up it was going to fail an throw itself and the bit free the table would offer some protection) put a small 1/2" bit in and tightened the collet with its its wrench holding the collet in place with the wrench i had made when trying to remove it (I did not put the built in lock back on because i had damaged the hole where the screw goes to hole down the lock ) turned on the router at its slowest slowly turning up the speed - no vibrations so i cut about 3 feet of of scrap. all seemed fine. I left the bit in and turned out the lights - just kidding. Pictures attached what the skill diagram should look like and what it actually looks like
  12. I get the Poly importance especially in a kitchen. The are a bunch of factors I didn't want to use poly on the doors. I put 7 or 8 coats on the drawer fronts. Sanding most of it back trying to get the bubbles out of the finish and they look very nice. Except they look a bit plastic to me, manufactured. But very nice. I learned a few things making such simple drawer fronts. I learned maybe I should have used a sanding sealer and maybe I would not have to put so many coats on - maybe. Maybe I should have just thinned out the coats and would not have gotten bubbles or they would have dissipated - probably. The twist is I set out to put a lot of coats on. I had painted a couple of car as a kid and it was always about the finish having depth. But what i am learning is the wood has its own depth. But there is a need for poly. But I also learned that poly will change the color of curly white maple or turn any white maple amber (well it will give an amber hue to anything). Learning this was a sad thing. I lost 2 sheets of maple that i had chosen by continually checking stock at 4 different locations over the course of several months. Yes yes shame on me. But i learned. So now my project has become an experiment of different finishes. With focus on making them look the same to anyone who is not a woodworker. In a few months or years I will know if the advertisement is true or not - by keeping it as real as possible sans poly. (well maybe just a little on one door above the stove)
  13. I was considering wax. I will look into Osmo you suggested. I have presses forward with Tung Oil. It has no effect on the lacquered panels as long as wipe it off quickly and buffing blends it right away. This save me the time of taping all the panels. I will probable wax when i am done to seal of the Tung which i don't seem to mind. I look into the wax Mark J suggested or use a good carnauba - i like the way it smells. I like this thanks Mike J Polyx-Oils are made of natural oils (sunflower, soybean and thistle) and waxes (carnauba and candelilla) plus a bit of low-odor, benzene-free solvent. Once dry, the clear satin finish is food safe and appropriate for children's toys.
  14. I used many coat of lacquer on the panels is that considered a seal coat or is there more i should do? I am trying to keep the panels as light (white) as possible. The maple had some nice "features" I don't know the reflective nature of some woods like maple is called but i was able to get a sheet with some of it and another with a bit less . Lacquer I learned (the hard way) was the only way to keep the maple from darkening. I brushed on the first coats of lacquer to build it up sanded it out then sprayed the rest. Besides the idea of waxing the oak stiles and rails was also considering using Tung oil or a mixture / thinned version of it (maybe with linseed IDK). I am experimenting on couple of shelves before I commit. I think I am just tired of smelling poly and want to try and learn some other ways to finish till someone writes no no don't do that. All comments are welcome and help me learn.
  15. My bad. I went back through my receipts and found I bought a can VARA SPAR URETHN OIL SAT SPRAY at the same time I bought the numbers. I was just browsing around looking if i could help and learn.