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Everything posted by JFII

  1. I do not have any equipment to spray except a window fan and a respirator. Before I sprayed the maple sheets i put on 4 coats of brush / wipe on lacquer to get a base built up and sanded coat 3 and 4. leaving nearly zero marks sanded starting with 320 to 400 to 600. I let these coats dry for several hours. When I sprayed I spayed from a can with a handle attachment that has a trigger. It worked great until I noticed 1 drip in the center of the panel. this was unnoticeable until I lightly sanded between every 3 light coats. I sprayed the 3 coats not waiting any time between the first and second and waiting 5 minutes for the third. the coats seemed to have flashed as i was spraying - the spay width on a can is very narrow. I waited an hour or two lightly sanded and shot the next 3 putting the last coat on a bit heavier (by slowing down the sweep) sanded and this time I put the last 2 on heavier I had 2' x 4' sheets of maple veneer spraying 1 sheet at a time. The first 2 sheets (I thought i would only need 2 ) I used Daft lacquer products. I could not have been happier considering with how it turned out. I did not sand the final coat although i should have. the 3rd sheet because I cut 2 panels wrong (they were cut right just the grain would have been going left to right. I used the same method above except I have bought the last of the Daft satin spray so I bought Minwax wipe / brush on and clear satin spray . Although the Daft product was not clear in the can it looked thick milky off white but it produced a very clear satin finish - the Minwax did not the Minwax looks cloudy and obscures the grain. When I first saw this when I was done I thought it was overspray or that I did not give the lacquer long enough between each light coat so I wait as the instructions specified and the result was the same. This was for doors i had cut wrong but were in your face upper doors. So I recut 2 larger bottom doors to fit the upper cabinet doors and used this panel for the less noticed bottom side doors.
  2. More detail What I did was lay the collet nut on a piece of 2"x4" so it was slightly supporting the router and gave 3 sides a whack with a hammer. Nothing. So I went a little harder after the 4th or 5th whack it was loose. I found the no damage to any of the parts. I took the router apart. taking pictures as i opened it. All the face screws need to come out and only the bottom screws that go to the top side of the cover (I took them all out ) be careful of the small piece and spring that are part of the lock on mechanism. it will jump out and hide if you let it. I blew out with compressed air. I checked the brushes and they were fine. (did not disassemble the brush mounts i used a magnifying glass to inspect them) I could not find anywhere on the armature shaft the had any place for a wrench so i reassembled the router. Before I put the collet and nut back on i dialed down the speed to its slowest plugged it and and pulled the trigger. It seemed to spin up fine so i slowly dialed up the speed and there weren't any vibrations. I unplugged the router and screwed on the collet and shoved a long thin screwdriver onto the fan blades and tightened. Here i was making a guess that when the collet nut is tightened onto a bit it it also tightens the collet onto the shaft. reasoning - The threads for the shaft were under the threads for the collet nut. When a bit bottoms out it is bottoming out on the shaft. I put the collet nut on LOOSLY and mounted the router into its table (I did this in case i had cracked the collet nut and when I spun it up it was going to fail an throw itself and the bit free the table would offer some protection) put a small 1/2" bit in and tightened the collet with its its wrench holding the collet in place with the wrench i had made when trying to remove it (I did not put the built in lock back on because i had damaged the hole where the screw goes to hole down the lock ) turned on the router at its slowest slowly turning up the speed - no vibrations so i cut about 3 feet of of scrap. all seemed fine. I left the bit in and turned out the lights - just kidding. Pictures attached what the skill diagram should look like and what it actually looks like
  3. I get the Poly importance especially in a kitchen. The are a bunch of factors I didn't want to use poly on the doors. I put 7 or 8 coats on the drawer fronts. Sanding most of it back trying to get the bubbles out of the finish and they look very nice. Except they look a bit plastic to me, manufactured. But very nice. I learned a few things making such simple drawer fronts. I learned maybe I should have used a sanding sealer and maybe I would not have to put so many coats on - maybe. Maybe I should have just thinned out the coats and would not have gotten bubbles or they would have dissipated - probably. The twist is I set out to put a lot of coats on. I had painted a couple of car as a kid and it was always about the finish having depth. But what i am learning is the wood has its own depth. But there is a need for poly. But I also learned that poly will change the color of curly white maple or turn any white maple amber (well it will give an amber hue to anything). Learning this was a sad thing. I lost 2 sheets of maple that i had chosen by continually checking stock at 4 different locations over the course of several months. Yes yes shame on me. But i learned. So now my project has become an experiment of different finishes. With focus on making them look the same to anyone who is not a woodworker. In a few months or years I will know if the advertisement is true or not - by keeping it as real as possible sans poly. (well maybe just a little on one door above the stove)
  4. I was considering wax. I will look into Osmo you suggested. I have presses forward with Tung Oil. It has no effect on the lacquered panels as long as wipe it off quickly and buffing blends it right away. This save me the time of taping all the panels. I will probable wax when i am done to seal of the Tung which i don't seem to mind. I look into the wax Mark J suggested or use a good carnauba - i like the way it smells. I like this thanks Mike J Polyx-Oils are made of natural oils (sunflower, soybean and thistle) and waxes (carnauba and candelilla) plus a bit of low-odor, benzene-free solvent. Once dry, the clear satin finish is food safe and appropriate for children's toys.
  5. I used many coat of lacquer on the panels is that considered a seal coat or is there more i should do? I am trying to keep the panels as light (white) as possible. The maple had some nice "features" I don't know the reflective nature of some woods like maple is called but i was able to get a sheet with some of it and another with a bit less . Lacquer I learned (the hard way) was the only way to keep the maple from darkening. I brushed on the first coats of lacquer to build it up sanded it out then sprayed the rest. Besides the idea of waxing the oak stiles and rails was also considering using Tung oil or a mixture / thinned version of it (maybe with linseed IDK). I am experimenting on couple of shelves before I commit. I think I am just tired of smelling poly and want to try and learn some other ways to finish till someone writes no no don't do that. All comments are welcome and help me learn.
  6. My bad. I went back through my receipts and found I bought a can VARA SPAR URETHN OIL SAT SPRAY at the same time I bought the numbers. I was just browsing around looking if i could help and learn.
  7. Thank you gentleman. I made a sign a few months back and forgot that poly doesn't off any protection from UV. I'll pull it off this weekend and spray with with something that does. I also noticed my stainless screws are rusting. pick in profile Thanks again
  8. I have an old skill 1825 router where a few months ago I put a bit in it to do some work but never got back to it. When I tried to take the bit out I could not turn the collet nut to loosen. Then the collet lock started to slip so I ground down a regular wrench to fit and that started to slip. but the nut still would not budge. Finally I put the router on its side and supported the collet nut with some wood block then gave each side of the nut a whack with a hammer. This loosened up the nut and the armature shaft. I am a bit confused by the terminology (see image) and would think the armature shaft is what the collet screws onto. There are no obvious cracks or splits in any of the parts. I figure if I did crack or split something it would open up when I tightened the parts down. Anyway it is threaded for both the collet nut and the motor shaft, which is also threaded for it (at first i did think i broke something) My question is how do I tighten it (collet) onto the motor shaft. I'm thinking i need to disassemble the router further but what can I grip to keep the motor shaft (armature shaft?) locked and from spinning as i tighten the collet to it. I also thought of sticking a screw driver through the case into the fan but I did not want to bend anything considering it spins at 25k or so and thought it much wiser to ask before I have shrapnel everywhere including me.
  9. I don't know if you found your answer. But I found a series of video's where your Planer is featured. Might be worth a look either way.
  10. Here is the bottoms. I drilled for the hinges and mounted everything up - since it my first time I wanted to see how everything fit. The center door overlapped each other too wide is better than too narrow but one is 3/16" shorter than the other. I was able to cut the rails out with a jig saw and not damage the panel or stiles. the door on the left had an opening of 8" and had to make some adjustment to get slide out organizer installed. At that time i gave no thought about the door and as soon as i started to mount the door I knew they were not going to slide out. However the company make and door mount for the cabinet / trash can tray which don't have the wrap around aluminum (which budges a bit at the corner's so i busted the welds on the front mount bars and and bent the them to fit between the two mounts and you reall cdant see because its up against the door (I'll need to post pictures). the mounts have an bunch of extra holes so i was able to tie the into the mounts and problem solved . so now i need to take everything apart and finish it or do I. Is finishing wax a real option for cabinet doors in a kitchen?
  11. Suggestions for steps to finish kitchen cabinet doors using oak as the frame and Maple as the panel. The stiles and rails are all cut (mitered) and with dado for panel and biscuit slots have been cut. They have been dry fitted I will be using neutral stain with some pecan mixed in. The maple panels are all cut and have been finished with 8 coats of satin clear lacquer (from a spray can) and look great. I did a test and stained a couple of the frames and glued and assembled with the panels I did get some swell around joints which was correctable but may not have been if they were also poly'd My main concern is the build up of poly around or possible mistakes (sanding, bleed or seepage) to the panels if I glue up first. I think this is my only choice or to find somewhere that can spray them for me but this an buying a couple of cases of spray don't seem financially viable or practical. Hints, tips, tricks, sound advise or good jokes welcome
  12. It was solid without any kick back. During the first tests the stock would move so i added another clamp and if you look closely i was using a couple of wedges between the clamp and the board to hold the board super tight to the fence. the cut off piece just moved out of the way when I would slide in the next board (some of the time) I added the blade guard too much spinning blade to close to my fingers. 2 screws and it comes off. I also glues a strip of sandpaper to the fence during one of the revisions. Over the holidays I had purchased a a Freud P410 Next gen Fusion blade. Very happy with it. Very very little blow out if any even in the plywood i am using for the panels. Which i started cutting today. What I can think of as to why there isn't any binding or kick-back. There isn't any pressure into the blade, the stock lif firmly locked down onto the sled and onto the fence allowing no movement. When loading the stock its pressed against the block but not forced. The block is firmly attached to the sled and not applying a loaded pressure back towards the blade. until I had the stock firmly in place the top of the stock always wanted to move down and to the right and the bottom up As the blade removed material there was nothing to bind with. The cut off piece moved verily little. I would push the stock through the cut pull the sled back flip the stock to cut the other side, pull the sled back load my next piece never turning off the saw. The jigs took an enormous amount of time to get right compared to doing the cut through all the pieces. I went through a great deal of trial and error think about it repeat but once it was right a few hours of easy time to get through all the pieces. There is a great deal of satisfaction of going through this journey. Back to cutting panels and thinking about what's next. Which is since i always have and issue with gluing a frame together i already slotted all the boards for biscuits and glued up left stile to top rail and right stile to bottom rail. The panels will be maple and I put 5 coats of brushing lacquer then sanded out most of it then sprayed 3 coats rubbed it out then another 3 coats of sprayed lacquer onto the sheets that i and cutting into the panels. Oh i have to make a jig for the hinges....
  13. OK, So while I researched the best way to cut the miters i focused on the bevel and again focusing on consistency which meant once setup I should be able to cut them all. So I started making another jig. I would test a scrape then another and it didn't seem I was getting it right. Test after test, and it was a pain to adjust this jig. Now I know I should have thought of it sooner but I was assuming the boards were all the same dimensions and how wrong I was. (if I wasn't focusing on this as a production I may not have understood until much later - thank you sir) It was also shortly after that I remembered that the prototype I had made was from 7/8" stock not 3/4" which is what I had purchased. What I found was most of the boards were 3/4" some a little more the boards I had that were 23/32" or less I could not use (I still needed a 1/4" dado for the panel) so planed everything to 47/64" (I was a bit worried) the boards that were 23/32" or less were also less that 2-1/2" wide. Non were from the big box L@@@@ but the other place...
  14. My time spent thinking i also was setting up to make the doors as one continuous motion for each step. wtnhighlander pointed out early on and it stuck was get ready and when you have the cut right cut them all. Now all i needed to do was get something i could repeat - making one is easy making 13 with 8 miter cuts per door was going to be a educational. The kerf, the bevel - each step was incredibly enlightening. these next messages may bore some but i am just tying to pay it forward maybe help that light bulb go on for someone that happened here for me with the help I received. Please correct anything i may have done that is wrong or might have been done better or easier good advise is much appreciated The first was to get the stiles and rails cut and I needed to miter them (up until then I don't think I ever cut a perfect miter - at least now looking back I was a piker) everywhere I read they all did an A / B side of cutting the miters. I watched many YouTube videos and read many articles I happened on William Ng he made sense but i just wasn't getting it(my ability to understand not his method). My friend wanted me to make a sled that had these rails sticking out of it nearly 20 inches past the end i did ii was just so clumsy and in the way I really could not use it and label each board a or b why (I knew why but why couldn't i cut a consistent miter) . There had to be a better way. So i stumbled onto an article from FineWoodWorking the link is locked but it was in a copy the last couple of months and seems to be a reprint of an article from SEPTEMBER 29, 2016 Build a table saw sled - this is one that is very similar to it i found in wood magazine. https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/reader-submitted-shop-tips/miter-picture-frame. The idea is to cut the rail or style to length then cut the miter using one side of the jig - NO a + B it took me a while to get it tuned in (there are more holes in the bottom)but it worked and it was much easier to get two pieces the same length while both are square..
  15. Well its been a long time. I had found a covid 'friend' and found myself being a handy man at her home (considering it had a working kitchen - I was eating well) My kitchen among other things moved slowly forward giving me time to think between tasks and of course forget what I had done last. I did get the drawers in a little before Christmas learning just how dusty my little workshop was and how much poly could 8 drawer fronts take. Most of what i thought was dust was really the oak breathing its bubbles (correction?). All the same 2 coats and sand with 320 - 3 x, 1 coat still a couple of bubbles / dust, used 400, 1 coat 400, 1 coat let dry 2 days and rubbed with a brown paper bag. The results I am very happy with. at this point. I thought about grain / sanding sealer. I tried some variations of grain sealer but did not think I would be happy with the results but of course I didn't know what I was doing but i couldn't see the color ever matching. I had sprayed a couple of cars as a kid with lacquer it was about getting the space as clean as possible so I improvised. For your entertainment pictures attached. Next message - i got jiggy with it. I also spent a couple of hours in an ER right before Thanksgiving... Oh one of the side distractions I made a couple of cutting boards - one when to the cook and the other I put above one of the drawers and instead of a pull knob I mount put behind it a spring-loaded push device so pushing it in would pop it out Please comment
  16. Very nice. Mixing in with raised panels adds a twist. Fluting looks good too - I haven't been very good so far with my attempts on fluting. and the brushed SS pulls look great too (going to use the same on my cabinets), This i very inspirational thanks for sharing!
  17. I do like that idea. (maybe with just the kerf where it would be - It will be magic to get it right - another trick to learn) Thinking out loud. I liked that door for its simplicity. So before I pay the ransom to to acquire a sheet of quarter sawn red oak I am going to go hunting around town begging for some maple scraps and see how they look with a natural and 1 or 2 other light stains like the pecan stain compared to the oak and see if i can get a decision in my stocking by Friday.
  18. That's what I have been doing for the boards. Been to 9 different places and picked about 60 feet (I have learned to always bring gloves). However the sheets are different the best I have seen is C3. Even had my local guy order it in A3 but what he got he didn't even let them take it off the truck. (I wish he had at least let me see it ) He also ordered me in a plain sawn sheet at was nicely matched but 4 across I just don't want that V (cathedral?) look. I would like some sort natural chaos. Its a waiting game. I think its a holiday slow down on what is available. I may have to wait until after rather then settle. I will be the one looking at the cabinet doors every day. Question - 2 of the top drawers are only 4" tall I was going to go with 1.5" stiles and rails. The other option is one piece or one piece with a wide (1" or so) grove tapered like the doors if that's possible in the center. Your thoughts? -John
  19. Thank you, It was just a mock up with some scrap I had. What i am intending to build them with is the stiles and rails will be rift sawn red oak and the panels quarter sawn red oak. with a natural or pecan stain on the stiles and rails and just natural or just poly on the panels. I have also considered maple for the panels (and really liked birds eye when i saw it. Then I saw the price). With the panels I am trying for a slightly lighter color or shading than the stiles and rails. I used a program called MaxCut2 to build me a diagram and cultist so I only need 1 4x8 to do all the panels with some to spare trying the different finishing ideas. I have the slides all mounted in the cabinets and the drawers in them. (I'll post a drawer pic) I am having some difficulty sourcing quarter sawn 1/4" red oak plywood A1 (or a2) the shipping charges were going to be more than the sheet. John
  20. Sir / Ross, Thank you very much for your guidance (apprenticeship?) I hope your thanksgiving was enjoyable. I built a sample from poplar and plywood and made these adjustments to what was shown in the drawing the angle for the bevel is 12° , the bead was cut using a thin kerf blade 1/8" deep. I cut the bead after the bevel but it would have been better to cut it first as it was suggested. Besides from the displeasing stain (pecan) I put on the poplar and even though the miters seemed nearly perfect before glue-up some sort of sideways gravity or my not clamping them correctly caused a corner to slip (even though I might like to think it was this strange gravity most here would insist it was the clamping and hopefully offer suggestions). Another concern is cutting all the bevels with a thin kerf blade. Best regards, John
  21. Sir, The bead/kerf at the top of the bevel is for the tear out. I was going to test cut it both before and after cutting the bevel. You have given me a good picture of what needs to be done, thank you very much for taking the time to do so. I will post back the results of the project. I added some dimensions to the door profile. John
  22. wtnhighlander I do think you outlined the order in which to work. I just needed to read it again. One thing I am not so clear on is "one pass ... to establishing the center shadow line " Thank you again.
  23. Thank you for the kudos. It is a nice clean look. Yes 2-2.5. No shaper , no joiner - yet(but i do have access for a price). I was reading about using biscuits for the corners (I would rent a biscuit joiner) and make corner jigs for glue up so then don't slide. I was also considering making some sort of adjustable sled for cutting the bevel but unsure i would get consistent results. I saw plans for a miter sled in a Woodsmith spinoff tips and techniques but didn't think it would give me a consistent cut. Should i cut the bead first with a router or table saw? Then the bevels then the corners? Thanks again every nudge, question, answer and suggestion helps.
  24. I could maybe get them as low as $8.25 per hinge for an off brand compared to less than $2.00. But the size would rule out sliding shelves for the lower cabinets. (hands and knees to reach in)
  25. I hope i posted in the correct section. I am a new wood worker and would like some direction on cutting stiles and rails for cabinet doors and drawer fronts. I started a project to refinish my face frame cabinets. By simply painting them the drawers were falling apart so i new i would have to replace them. I have completed the drawer boxes and have them installed with new undermount slides. I thought I could make new fronts by rounding over some paintable stock. The doors had external hinges and never closed properly always bouncing off the magnetic closures. After my success with the drawers I thought I could reuse the doors (upgrade them later) and install hidden self close hinges that i could reuse on new doors later. Unfortunately, the doors are not just full overlay but partially inset with a 3/8" lip. The self close hinges for these doors are not just monstrous in size but in price. Putting back on surface hinges would mean i would have to refinish the face frame again to cover the holes. Accepting i may no be done for the holidays I thought i could make the doors now. Rather than me doing trial and error, error, error I was hoping to get some direction. I have chosen a simple door that I like but do not have the experience to know how to cut the stiles and rails and if i should uses some router bit to make the bevel or a jig to cut it on my table saw. included is a image of the doors and fronts but i also do not know what width stock for the stiles and rails. Also a complete list of openings and added .75" for the final product (image and spreadsheet) .Thank you in advance for any input John Link to sizes https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JvfL8FfD5Zl_wZ3iJP7n5M14R21IrMaa/view?usp=sharing