Woodworking_Hobby

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Everything posted by Woodworking_Hobby

  1. Has anyone used a bit like this? Marc had recommend one for drilling 3/4 dog holes (I think) but I am not sure if I am using it right. The threads at the bottom of the bit are almost self drilling and it either tries to pull the wood out of my hand or if I clamp the wood the bit almost bores itself and I feel like I have lost control of the speed of depth. Do you have to use super slow or is there another trick? Anything better for deep 3/4 or 1 inch holes? I have some forstner bits but did not think you wanted to use them super deep into woods.
  2. Do you just clamp a 2 x 4 or something over the plate to your table too as you slowly raise the blade up into it so it stays safely in place as you make the first cut through the blank plate?
  3. So kind of related but not really; has anyone ever made a throat plate for their table saw out of wood? Mine did not come with an insert for dado blades and they are sold out everywhere. I found an old article about making zero clearance inserts for your saw out of would and you use have to be careful when making the first cut similar to store bought ones. Just wondering if anyone has a home made throat plate and if there is anything to watch out for when going that route.
  4. Thanks for the advice! Do you ever use bladecote or something similar to help protect the blades in storage when done? I am guessing you cannot really use an oil to protect as could cause issues with wood and glues if you do not wipe fully clean when done.
  5. Yes it was just not in my normal maintenance routines and now that I am trying to do a little more in the shop I will need to add that task into the rotation.
  6. I cannot comment on other jointers as I have only had one in my time of wood working. I have a six inch grizzly and it has done me good for all of my needs. Sometimes I do wish the bed was a little longer, but to be honest I really do not have space for a much larger unit. I did upgrade once I had it for a while and got a helix cutter head to change out the factory blades and changed out the v-belt for a powertwist belt. Ran much better and much less noise and vibrations after the upgrades. Good luck and you will love adding that tool to your collection if you do not already have one.
  7. Thanks for all of the suggestions. I ended up using the pre-thickened 665 that comes in the squeeze tubes and it worked great for my needs on this one. It dried pretty clear and was kind of like the consistency of silicone caulk when it was applied so it stayed pretty well in the joints I was trying to fill. I used so blue painters tape to keep the lines crips and off the wood and that seemed to work well in this application.
  8. Thanks for the info! When you use saw dust does that “dry out” the epoxy? I was just not sure how the epoxy would react and if it would look “lumpy” or still dry flat.
  9. I have another basic question that I hope the group does not mind…thanks for all of the answers folks have provided on my past questions as they have been great help!!! This one is about a table saw blade. 1. I think it is time to clean my blade. I noticed the teeth have a build up on them but I was not sure exactly what I should use to clean them and what I should scrub them with so I do not damage or dull the carbide tips. 2. Any real tips on how you know when it is time to send the blade off to be sharpened? Is this just a feel you start to get after you have worked wood enough with a blade and your saw you can tell when it does not start to cut as well?
  10. Thanks for the info! When you use saw dust does that “dry out” the epoxy? I was just not sure how the epoxy would react and if it would look “lumpy” or still dry flat.
  11. Has anyone used epoxy to fill gaps on a project where aesthetic is not critical and just want to fill the void? There are no structural issues with the joint it is just not fully flush. I was looking at using West Systems G/Flex 650, 650 with 403 fillers, or just using the pre-thickened 665. I was looking at the thickened and fillers as I did not want the epoxy to run down the face or out of the joint. Epoxy is a new world for me and just wondering if anyone had done something similar.
  12. I do not do a ton of hand tool woodworking, but I have found a few hand tools make the work so much easier. I have a block plane that I love and was looking at adding a smoothing plane to my collection. From what I have read on-line the No. 4 and No. 4 1/2 are almost identical and it seems a slight preference of the owner as to which one they would recommend. I am leaning towards getting the No. 4 1/2 and just thought I would make sure I was not missing anything.
  13. I have been eyeballing the chainsaw mill but have not been able to pull the trigger yet. We hade an elm tree fall this spring so I figured what can I lose and I just free hand cut some of the logs and got a nice stack of some wood to dry. Just hoping I have enough that makes it so I can make a small box or something. Just feels cool to be able to make something from a tree that was in my yard.
  14. Have you been able to run any boards through the upgraded machine yet! I got one for my DeWalt sometime ago and it made a huge difference in the noise level, quality of cut, and ease at changing blades. Best part in my opinion is you also don’t have to worry about setting and aligning the knife height like you do on the fixed blade. I feel your pain on the install! There were lots of videos luckily for the DeWalt but it was still a bear to walk through all of the steps. Happy Milling!
  15. The power twist belts are a little pricey but they are well worth the money when you need to replace your belt next time. I bought mine from grizzly as that’s been one of the better places I can find them. I put the belt on my jointer and it made a pretty large difference in noise and vibrations. Also another plus is you do not have to unbolt and reset the motor when you replace them or need to adjust them. They are a little different to install but there are some good videos and instructions out there. https://www.fennerdrives.com/powertwist-drive/_/PowerTwist-Drive-A/13/4L/
  16. Are these casters that go under the legs or attach to the side of the legs? I have been looking for some that attach to the side but have not found any ones that look like they will last.
  17. Thanks for all of the thoughts and suggestions. I love all of the great information and help I can find from the folks on this site!!!
  18. Is the flat top blade you use similar to what I have seen people call a box joint blade? I am assuming you use this on the shoulder so you get a nice crisp cut and top and don’t get that little notch from an ATB blade. I used this link to help me learn about blades and it has really helped me pick the right ones! https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/choosing-the-right-table-saw-blades
  19. So I am still learning how to do M & T joints and was wondering what folks thought about the different methods and if they had any suggestions for while I am still learning how to make good joints Mortise 1. Domino (know this is not traditional but thought would throw on) 2. Router table 3. Forstner bit in drill press and clean up with chisel 4. Chisel only 5. Other Tennon 1. Domino 2. Tennon jig on table saw 3. dado stack on table saw 4. hand saw and plane 5. other? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions.
  20. I did not even think of that! Do you just drill a starter hole of the same diameter in some scrap, square it up with the piece and use that as a guide to get the drill bit straight?
  21. Anyone have thoughts on if a drill press is worth the floor space? I have an old 2000’s era King drill press that has twice been handed down. I do not use it a ton, but when I do it is nice to have but it has a super small travel distance and not much power. Not sure but maybe two to three inches of drilling depth and maybe 17” swing. I did not want to spend a ton a of money as I would rather upgrade the planer or jointer but was not sure if getting a grizzly would add some features like better quality, better table, depth stop, greater depth. Just wondering to see if you have any thoughts or suggestions. Planer and jointer upgrades are out for now as that means more floor space and the wife will not allow that today I imagine. Especially as I just got told I cannot buy or bring hone one more piece of wood until I get some out of the garage.
  22. Looking to get a few more bench chisels and mortise chisels. Any suggestions on brand? Also is there anything that makes a Japanese chisel that different from another brand. I know there are probably no right or wrong answers and was just looking for some thoughts. thanks!
  23. It’s been a while but I think you put in the size of your sheet stock; your blade kerf; and the the size and quantity of all your different parts. The program then lays them all out on the sheets to optimize the yield and minimize waste.
  24. The ones I have seen are more for cutting up plywood and optimizing for the least amount of waste.
  25. In my opinion, yes it is to help layout parts in sheet goods to minimize waste and where all of your starting sheets are they same size. Some programs allow you to layout in rough cut lumber with various dimensions of the starting board, but I found by the time you put in all of the different sizes of your rough lumber you could have cut it all out and not saved much extra by letting the program optimize the cuts.