TomInNC

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  • Location
    Davidson, NC
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand Tools, Furniture, General Carpentry

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  1. I'm absolutely open to the box joint option. This is my first attempt at drawers, so anything that reduces the likelihood of user error is a good idea. For an iBox, do most people set this up on the table saw with a dado stack or on the router table?
  2. We do cook a lot, but when we use the stove, we run the vent. Regarding the top, this does appear to be solid wood. The first picture below is a shot from inside the cabinet of the underside of the counter. The second shot is of the lip of the counter as seen from the floor.
  3. I am going to try the guild jewelry box project. Since I would like the project to be complete before Christmas, I am planning on using a jig for the dovetails instead of trying to learn to cut them by hand. Any suggestions on which jig to pickup? I was specifically curious if anyone has experience using the Leigh RTJ400 on a router table and could compare that to any of the jigs -- Leigh or otherwise -- where you use a handheld router.
  4. We have a wooden island in the kitchen. There are a lot of cosmetic blemishes in the finish, and last year weird circles started appearing on the surface. Recently, the finish has become very sticky to the point where objects will stick to it and require light force to be removed. Does the top just need to be refinished, or is there something else going on here? I have attached some pictures as a reference. Also, any ideas on what type of wood, finish, and, if relevant, stain might be on this? We are the third owners, the house is 14 years old, and I have no idea what previous owners may have done to maintain the island.
  5. Thanks. I am actually putting a rail on the bottom roughly through the knot to catch the sink edge, so it will be very clear which side can be used.
  6. Regarding the issue with the alignment, I have attached some pictures below that should help clarify. Notice how in the left frame, when you zoom in, the "bricks" are not quite straight. Zoomed out, it doesn't look too bad.
  7. Thanks. I will try to get some pictures when can and repost. So if you don't use epoxy, what do you use to fill voids on your boards? Glue and saw dust? These are very small, maybe the size of the end of a pen.
  8. Based on some helpful recommendations here, I put one of the in-line router table extensions on my SawStop PCS. Now I need to get a 3hp or so router that will fit in the dust collection box that came with the unit. Based on previous threads, it is my understanding that the Triton is too large to fit. Does anyone have a router that fits in the box that they are happy with? I already have a plunge router, so this would be dedicated to the router table.
  9. I am wrapping up a few end grain cutting boards, and I have some small voids to fill. I also managed to miss a knot hole when I was cutting down the stock and need to stabilize a knot that is on the underside of a board that will only see use on the top. I was looking at David Piccuitto's book on cutting boards, and he mentions several times that you should fill the voids with epoxy. He does not, however, go into the whole food safety debate and suggest what epoxy should be used. As per usual, the advice from the interwebs on this is wildly contradictory, ranging from "epoxy on a board will kill you" to "only use FDA approved epoxy" to "just use whatever you have in the shop; once it cures, it's fine." Do any of you use epoxy on your boards, and if so, what product do you use? I have found some of the FDA approved stuff online, but it only appears to come in containers that are about 100 times bigger than what I would need. Somewhat related question: if you are making an end grain board where you have a particular species running completely north-south on the board but the species change east-west, are there any tricks you use to align the strips in the final glue up? I have made a few of these now, and I always seem to get some minor imperfections in the alignment so that each species appears to "wave" a little bit. I'm not sure if this is from a sloppy glue up or something with the clamping pressure. You can only really see the wave up close. Since I don't have another board to compare mine to, I'm also wasn't sure if this was just something to be expected.
  10. Good to know. I saw some other comments online about the 55 being underpowered for anything above an inch or so. I will pick up a straight edge and wait for the 75 to come back out.
  11. I was primarily interested in the 75 because I don't often work with plywood and would like to eventually do some live edge projects with slabs. Would the 55 work for, say, truing an edge for a live edge table? I know there is a depth of cut difference between the 2 saws, but I was more concerned about the 55 having less power.
  12. For the Festool track users, do you think the Festool track is thick enough to serve as a straight edge guide a standard circular saw, with the circular saw running against the edge (as opposed to running in the track)? I haven't seen one of these in person, but they look pretty thin in the pictures online.
  13. Thanks. Where were you able to find these? After checking all the usual suspects, I was only able to find some used ones on ebay.
  14. Thanks for the suggestions. I was specifically looking for the Festool TS 75. So would you suggest just getting the track that would be used with this, then getting the ST 75 whenever it is available again? I have never used the Festool tracks and wasn't sure how they were different from, say, the Bora straight edge clamps
  15. I need to build some shop furniture and jigs out of plywood. Initially I was going to use this as an excuse to purchase a track saw to help break down sheets, but apparently the model I was after is indefinitely out of stock. That said, I am now in the market for a straight edge clamp. I would like something that is pretty sturdy, has well-built clamps, and is at least long enough to cut a full sheet width wise. After the track saw is available, I would use the straight edge primarily as a router guide. The online reviews for the clamps seem to be all over the place. For every model it seems like half the buyers think it's the greatest thing since sliced bread, while the other half think it's cheap garbage. Standard internet. Any recommendations from the WoodTalk Forum crowd?