TomInNC

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  • Location
    Davidson, NC
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand Tools, Furniture, General Carpentry

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  1. Thanks. There were a lot of "firsts" for me with this project, including mortised hinges. To install the hinges, I tried following Stowe's approach to using a story stick to set stop blocks on the router table. The results were ok, but they mortises on the top and bottom were not dead-on aligned, so I still had a fair amount of chisel work to do to clean things up. I know some other posters mentioned working through Stowe's book. Do you use the story stick method, or do you take some other approach? Given all the setup time at the router table, I am thinking I would have finished things much faster if I just used the chisels for the whole process. Are there any other books out there that you would recommend working through like a textbook for skill building? My next project is the hybrid workbench through the guild, but after that I would like to make several arts and crafts pieces for the house, and if there is a nice book out there like these box building books that walks you through several pieces, that would be a perfect way to get started.
  2. Done with a day to spare! Thanks for everyone's help. In lieu of plywood, I went with frame and panel solid wood for the base, lid, and the tray base. Used dewaxed shellac as the finish. It really helped the figure in the maple stand out. Hope everyone has a good Christmas!
  3. Interesting. I will give the hair dryer trick a shot.
  4. By "regular" do you mean the non-wipe-on gloss version? I was under the impression that the wipe-on gloss was just the non-wipe-on gloss diluted with mineral spirits, which I why I thought it was safe to switch to that mix after I ran out of the wipe-on. Live and learn.
  5. I meant to follow up on this a long time ago. Cleaning didn't seem to fix the issue, so used CitriStrip and a card scraper to get the old stuff off. The edge profile required me to finally learn how to use a gooseneck scraper. The first picture is the bare wood. I don't know what species it is, but it smelled fantastic. Many coats of wipe on poly, we have a shiny (and more importantly, not sticky) kitchen island just in time for Thanksgiving. Thanks for the help!
  6. I built a puzzle tray for my wife's birthday, and I finished it with Gloss Poly from Minwax. Initially I used the premixed wipe-on poly. After I ran out of that, I mixed the standard gloss poly with mineral spirits in a roughly 50-50 solution. I can't remember exactly how many coats I put on, but I would guess it was around 8 thin coats. Things looked pretty good at first, at least in the not-so-great light in my storage room. By the time I gave her the present, however, the finish had taken on a milky/splotchy appearance. The first picture below is right after the first coat dried. The second 2 are close-ups of tray now. The milky appearance is most visible in the second picture on end, and you can see the splotchy appearance if you look hard enough in the reflection on the third picture. Between the initial coats I was sanding with 220 grit, then wiping down with a rag covered in mineral spirts to remove the dust. I then used a higher grit for the next few coats and used a one of those 3m finishing pads towards the end of the process. Any idea what I may have done wrong here? I read that failing to mix the satin poly enough can cause problems like this because of uneven distribution of the flattener, but since this is a gloss, can I rule out stirring as an issue? Also, any thoughts on how to fix this? It's currently covered in an uncompleted oversized puzzle, so I have plenty of time to come up with a solution.
  7. Thanks. Will try to remember on the picture. I've gotten a lot if help here, but I've been terrible about following up with how things turn out. Just in the last month, advice from this forum helped me successfully refinish our kitchen island and make a really neat puzzle tray for my wife. If only the rest of the internet was this helpful!
  8. Do you think it would cause any issues using the floating panels for the box bottom in lieu of the plywood? I don't have any 1/4 plywood at the moment, and getting it right now can be a bit of a pain. I have plenty of maple, and since the exterior will be maple, I was debating just making the bottom a solid maple floating panel.
  9. Before you responded, my googling turned up "space balls" (not the movie) for panel doors. Is the Lexel working on the same principle? I may use solid wood for the base, and the plans call for 1/8 inch grooves. It looks like the space balls would be too large, but caulk should fit.
  10. Thanks! This is really helpful. It seems like assembling the top separately would be safer in my case since I am pretty new at this. For your lid, did you just put the panel in the groove and then glue the miters like you were making a picture frame?
  11. So if the lid really is floating, would I need to do anything to keep the lid from rattling around?
  12. The box where I believe he glues in the panel is called "A Fold Out Jewelry Box" that starts on page 96. The box where the lid is just glued to plywood is "A jewelry box with a sliding tray" on page 118. I would basically like to build the sliding tray box but with the kid from the fold out box. Regarding the question about the gluing of the panel, it's hard to tell, but the instructions for assembly on page 104 sure make it would like the panel is glued in.
  13. I am attempting to make a jewelry box for a Christmas present. Since this is my first box attempt, I was going to follow some plans that are in Stowes basic box making. Comparing the 2 jewelry box plans, I feel like I am missing something. In one of the plans, to make the lid he first cuts grooves in the box. Then, he cuts a groove in a decorative top panel, insets the panel in the grooves of the 4 sides, and glues the box up. The lid is then created by sawing the lid off on the table saw. Since the panel is glued into the frame and both are solid wood, wouldn't wood movement cause issues here? What really confused me is that in the second jewelry box plan, to make the top panel he uses plywood "for stability" and then just glues the decorative panel to the plywood.
  14. Thanks. One of the long term projects I aspire to complete is replacing some French doors on my house with some custom doors. After some googling, it sounds like the 700 is used pretty frequently in door construction. Since I have to make 4 of the doors, that alone might justify the 700. Got any good plans for custom wood French doors? Haha
  15. So what is the difference between the different Dominos (e.g. 500 vs 700)? I have seen them used in videos, but I never really looked into the different versions or what they cost