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TomInNC last won the day on February 5

TomInNC had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Davidson, NC
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand Tools, Furniture, General Carpentry

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  1. Thanks. Will give it a shot this weekend.
  2. Yes, the table is solid walnut. I've been working on flattening it with handplanes, so I know that much for sure. Gee dub, are you talking about how you would approach this with a router table or by freehand routing?
  3. Thanks for the tips. I do have a Milescraft circle cutting jig with a baseplate, so it sounds like that would be worth a try.
  4. I didn't make the piece, but I am 90 percent sure it's black walnut.
  5. For the roundover, I am just doing 1/8''. Typically I would just practice on some scrap, but I don't have anything round in the scrap pile at the moment, and I don't really feel like gluing a bunch of boards together to make a circle just for a test cut.
  6. I am refinishing a circular coffee table that we bought several years ago. There is no edge treatment on the table, and to my eye, it always looked a bit unfinished. While I have it stripped down, I would like to add a slight roundover to the top. I have done plenty of roundovers with my plunge router before, but the pieces were always rectangular. Since there isn't a natural point of entry for the router on a circle, I wasn't sure if it I would run into issues using the hand router here. I do have a router table, so if there's a way to safely round over the edges of a large circle on the router table, that would be an option as well.
  7. My brother hasn't given me any information on what he wants for the finish yet, but I did get the impression he wanted something glossy. In some of the videos that I've watched, Rubio Monocoat seemed to make the river tables look great.
  8. I've never polished anything before. How do you apply this?
  9. The only epoxy on this table will also be the river. What kind of rubbing compound did you use on the epoxy? Unrelated question: has anyone used the Domino for making waterfall joints? Since I have to learn how to work with epoxy for the table my brother asked for, I figured I would make a waterfall table for the house. As I have several around-the-house projects that I need to knock out quickly this summer, I am also going to use this as an excuse to get a Domino. I purchased the guild build with Matt Cremona, and he uses the Domino on the waterfall joint. At least to my untrained eye, it isn't clear what size domino he is using , nor is it clear which unit (500 vs XL) he is using. I asked for clarification in the discussion section, but I have no idea how frequently that is monitored for 4-year-old projects. For anyone that has made waterfall joints, what size dominos were you using? After surfacing, I am guessing the material will be about 6/4. At this point, I'm on the fence about whether I should get the XL or the 500. I mostly plan on building solid-wood furniture, and I understand it, this would put me in the gray area between the 500 and XL.
  10. I was asking about getting the slab ready for finish. With solid wood, if things go well with the No 4, you can frequently move right to the finish without sanding further. Would that be possible with a table that has epoxy in it? Or should I at least plan on sanding the epoxy to prep for finish?
  11. I bought the slabs last week and am starting to go through all the helpful info here. It seems like the general consensus is that sanding is very important. Unsurprisingly, that is the part of the project that I am less than enthused about. I am decent with handtools, and I am wondering if it would make sense to plane the final table down with my No 4, scrape out the planer tracks, then light sanding with the grits 220 and up. I have never tried to hand plane epoxy, but some of the random stuff I've seen on sites where people talk about cleaning up epoxy used to fill defects make it sound like it isn't a totally crazy idea. Has anyone tried this?
  12. Yes, I meant in length perpendicular to the blade. The miter gauge is removable, but using the sled definitely gave me more control of the cuts for large tenons on the workbench build. I swear I saw a video where someone had rigged a way to connect two miter gauges to create a two-handled cross cut sled that you could use to trim the bottom of doors. Can't seem to find it at the moment. Just planing a support board down and using magnets is a great idea. I already have some magswitches, so that could be done for very little cost.
  13. I use the Incra miter express for most cross cut operations. For small and medium pieces, the sled works very well. Large pieces that extend well beyond the width of the sled, however, want to tip down off the sled. This makes operations like cutting tenons on large legs tricky because of how much downward pressure you need to use while simultaneously pushing the sled through the cut. Has anyone successfully modified the miter express to address this issue? I use the sled in the left miter slot, and I also have a router table extension on the left side with another miter slot. I am thinking that if there is someway to attach a panel that is the exact height of the one on the sled, I wouldn't have the tipping issue. The sled base is 1/2 MDF plus whatever the red coating adds in thickness, so 1/2 MDF wouldn't match the thickness exactly. I know I could just build some monstrous cross-cut sled that could span the whole space, but (1) I don't really have room to store one and (2) this would probably require me to take out a second mortgage given the current price of plywood.
  14. On a related note, I really like the mix of science and woodworking in the Hoadley book. If anyone has references for sciency woodworking books like this, please send them along.
  15. Thanks for the replies. My question here came up as I was reading Chapter 4 and Chapter 5 of the Hoadley's Understanding Wood. In Chapter 4, Hoadley writes: "wood shrinks or swells due to loss or gain of bound water from the cell walls.... The orientation of the long-chain cellulosic structure in the cell wall is nearly parallel to the long axis of the cells. As water molecules enter and leave the cell walls, the resulting swelling or shrinkage is mainly perpendicular to the cell walls and does not influence their length. Similarly, pushing marbles into a straw broom would make the broom head wider, but would have little effect on the overall length of the broom head." My general takeaway from his discussion is that because of the cells respond to moisture changes, dimensional changes along the grain (longitudinal) of a kiln dried board are so small they can be ignored (0.1% of length). Tangential and radial changes in a board's dimensions, however, can be significant, and these are the changes that can cause problems via shrinking and swelling. The nature of the movement will vary by species and with how the board was sawn. Is this more or less what the major takeaway the primary source of wood movement should be? Just wanted to make sure I was starting from the right place for these questions. Now regarding restraining and directing wood movement, if you happen to have the book, on page 89 Hoadley talks about how much an 18 inch panel should move and says "since the panel will be pinned at the center, we can assume symmetrical behavior and look at either half (of the board)." The source of my confusion is why we know that we can make this assumption. Is the idea that, in the center of the board, the pins are strong enough that changes in the wood cells near the pins is redirected away from the pins? I've tried to summarize how I'm envisioning this in the attached drawing, the red pins at the center redirect movement of the cells at the center of the board. These cells expand, pushing on the cells next to the, which then expand pushing on the cells next to them, and so on, so the ultimate movement is in the direction of the green arrows. In the case of my shiplap question (second picture), say you have 2 rows of restraints (red circles) on the board (glue, screws, etc). I'm thinking that the column of pins on the right direct cell expansion to the right (blue arrows) and left (green arrows). The column of pins on the left end of the board directs cell movement towards the center (green arrows). If this is what is going on, at some point the cells are going to hit one another (red box). What happens at that point? Will this generate some sort of crack? Or would this "bumping" cause the cells to "turn around" and redirect expansion towards the ends of the boards?