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About TomInNC

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    Davidson, NC
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand Tools, Furniture, General Carpentry

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  1. Ok. Thanks. I made the plunge into hand tools last March. Bad timing I suppose.
  2. I am aware of the Covid backlog issue, but I was wondering if this was an issue even pre-covid.
  3. Thanks for the feedback. It looks like LN isn't even taking backorders for the medium anymore. I know it is pretty common for their tools to be on back order, but is it common for them to not even take orders?
  4. Killing time during a Zoom meeting while browsing the LN site. I don't have a shoulder plane yet, and I am trying to figure out what size I should start with. I would primarily use the plane for cleaning up tenons. The LN site suggests getting the large shoulder plane to start. When I looked at a few of the videos, though, the large plane looks absolutely massive when compared with the small and medium. Is the large plane difficult to use on the typical tenons you would use for, say, building a table? For what it's worth I have relatively large hands, so I'm less concerned about my ability to
  5. Thanks. So are you suggesting adding a stretcher across the top under the base of the table in addition to the through tenon? Regarding your comment on the wedges, did you say this because it looks like the grain of the wedge is perpendicular to the grain of the top? I'm still very new to trying to make furniture (without pocket screws at least), and all of these tips are very helpful.
  6. I wasn't going to include the cleats or the bullnose if I tried to make the table. Do you think standard through tenons to the top be strong enough? I am very early in my joinery journey and have yet to attempt through tenons, and I thought this might be a nice chance to try it out. I saw a cool video last night that used wedged mortise and tenons to attach a top (see below), but this appears to be way beyond my skill level at this point.
  7. I got enough wood to try to build a copy of this ( > End %26 Side Tables&cm_ite=6818471&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyZmEBhCpARIsALIzmnKM6ktHA_FpNcINSWPGj7X68W4OkyLJD6VodGnzl1DST4AxTcAlS7caAo5DEALw_wcB). Any guesses as to how the top is attached? I was going to try to do the project without fasteners as a challenge.
  8. Good point on the labor costs. I guess I was primarily surprised by the cost because the owner said he was just trying to get rid of the lumber that was left over from some renovation work that they had done. This really makes me wonder what they charged for the renovation!
  9. I am still building furniture for my own house, so there are no real client concerns. I do like the reclaimed look, and I thought it would be interesting to try to try my hand on the epoxy work for the knot and nail holes. Regarding the risk to my tools, I took a metal detector to the boards that I did buy from the guy last night, and I wasn't able to find any trace of metal in the wood. Aside from the metal detector and scrubbing everything down with a wire brush, is there anything else that I can do to avoid nasty metallic surprises?
  10. If the jointer is going to be stationary, how much leveling should I expect to be doing? I talked to some local woodworking suppliers, and they have the dovetail jointer but do not have the parallelogram and aren't sure when that will be back in stock.
  11. There is a design studio near my house that does a lot of work with reclaimed lumber, primarily stuff that they get from old barns. The studio doesn't generally sell to the public, but the owner said I was welcome to pick through the scrap pile. He had some cool looking 4/4 white oak boards that are 10" wide and 3 feet long. The boards have already been denailed. When I asked how much he wanted per board, he said $30 bucks a piece. On a board-foot basis ($12/bft) these are incredibly expensive relative to standard white oak ($5/bft locally). Is this kind of markup common on reclaimed woo
  12. Unfortunately I've been checking Craigslist and other sites locally for about 6 months, and the only jointers I have seen for sale are the very old models that would require a lot of work to get them operational again.
  13. At least in my case I was milling things by hand (and the projects didn't require a ton of accuracy. Based on what I have read, I am pretty sure I want to get an 8 inch Powermatic jointer. Since I haven't ever used a power jointer before, I am not sure what "flavor" will work best for me. Prices run from $1999 for the dovetail, straight-blade version to $3225 for helical/parallelogram version. Is the extra cost associated with the parallelogram design and helical cutter worth it?
  14. On the dust collectors, for a given CFM, is there any advantage to running on 240v as opposed to 120v?
  15. No idea. They mention it in passing in a video but don't say what it is. Can't find it referenced elsewhere on their site.