TomInNC

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Everything posted by TomInNC

  1. Thanks. So in your case, did you fasten the panel to the ledge, or just let it float? Good idea on the slats. I am using slats for the shelves on the other side, so this should simplify things significantly.
  2. Nevermind. I found the table of contents. This does look like a fantastic reference. I am still building out my library. Any other recommendations for must-have books? I currently own Flexner's finishsing book, the complete book of woodworking, the complete manual of woodworking, and woodworking basics. Now that I am getting more comfortable with how to properly use the tools that I have, I am looking to learn more about the options for designing and assembling different types of furniture. The Hylton book looks spot on in that regard.
  3. Thanks. Does the book discuss solid wood construction? I was looking at a few cabinet books that they have at our library, but all of the books assumed that you were working with plywood.
  4. I was watching the build below for ideas on how to add a solid wood bottom to this thing. Around minute 6, it looks like he cuts a tongue on some glued up panels and then sets then in grooves that run along the rails. The video moves very quickly, and it is hard to see the grooves.
  5. Do you sand after using your rasp? I have some cheap ones that I picked up at woodcraft. I use then occasionally, but the surface that they leave is really rough.
  6. Ah, Ok. Now I get the reindeer thing. Seems like a good way to get rid of some scrap.
  7. I see reindeer mentioned a lot of woodworking sites. Are these actual reindeer? Or a reference to something else?
  8. So I'm getting close to ordering the lumber for this project. I'm thinking that I will use 3x3 for the entire frame, then add the panels to the sides and back and discussed before. The last thing I need to figure out is how I am going to install the floors of the carcass. If I am sticking with solid wood, should I make up 2 panels for each side of the case, then add a groove around the rails to accept the base panel? Is there a woodworking term for building a floor like this? Looking for something to google. For the trash can, I am going to use some pullout hardware from Revashelf that
  9. I also prefer smoothing with handtools to sanding. When the bandsaw comes in, I wanted to make some bandsaw boxes with my kids, and for most of those bandsaw box designs, I don't think it would be possible to use a spokeshave or a card scraper. That was one of the reasons I was thinking about getting the spindle sander down the line.
  10. I got the DC yesterday, and while I was walking around the store, I started looking at the oscillating spindle sanders. I will be adding a bandsaw to the mix in the fall, which means sanding curves. I have only added significant curves to 2 projects so far, and I sanded them with those little sanding drums that you put on the end of a drill. Not ideal, and results were questionable. If I am going to be sanding down to cut lines to clean up bandsaw cuts, is it worth investing in a spindle sander? If so, any recommendations? The store I was at had both the Jet benchtop and cabinet/standalo
  11. Thanks. My run should involve a lot less wire. The location of the subpanel in the garage is almost directly above the main panel in the basement, so that should be, at most, a 30 foot run. From the subpanel we are going to run up the wall, across the ceiling, and then drop down. That might be 100 feet when you add it all up. From the subpanel we are adding 2 120v and 2 240v. Our normal electrician initially told me that this should cost about $1600. Then when he wrote a quote up, it suddenly became $4500. He's always impressed me as a pretty honest guy, so I assumed he was just trying t
  12. Ok. I'm guessing our supply prices are pretty similar.
  13. I really tried to stay clear of the joint while sanding, but who knows. I tend to zone out when I am doing that kind of work. I don't have a moisture meter, but this was some cedar that was leftover from an outdoor project I completed more than 3 years ago. The lumber had been sitting in the garage since then, so my official scientific guesstimate is that it was pretty dry.
  14. The estimate more than doubled. This guy has been very honest in the past, so I am inclined to believe him that this is really a wiring cost issue. I am going to get some other estimates regardless. What part of NC are you in? I am close to Charlotte.
  15. Covid strikes again... After talking with our electrician, apparently the cost of having the subpanel has skyrocketed since we first discussed the project this time last year. I'm trying to figure out a temporary solution to add the jointer and DC without running a bunch of wire. There are currently 4 circuits that have outlets in the garage: a 240v that is currently dedicated to the table saw; a 120v GFCI that is tied to all of my outdoor outlets; a 120v that controls the garage lights; and a 120v that controls the garage door opener with outlets mounted in the ceiling). The DC (mi
  16. I was working on a table this week with legs that are connected by two tiers of crosslap joints. Immediately after cutting the joints, the crosslaps were very tight. My intention was to go back and trim them just before the glue up. Before assembly, I gave the parts a light sanding over the top (not in the laps/notches). Immediately after the sanding, the crosslaps were now loose enough to fit maybe 2 sheets of paper in the gap. Could this change have been because of the sanding? Or is this just wood moving? I'm new to joinery, so I am wondering if I accidentally committed some kind of cardina
  17. Haha. Will do. Looks like the jointer is going to be at least a few weeks out. The dealer is checking with PM, but it could be as late as October before they get the unit. Ugh. The next furniture project is going to be the frame and panel outdoor barbecue/trash cart that I mentioned in a different thread. I have been getting by with getting the boards s2s by hands, then running through a planer. This gives me boards so far that have been "square enough" for my joinery, which has been limited to MT and half laps (ignoring my initial pocket screw period). I don't really want t
  18. Thanks for all the help. I bit the bullet and ordered the jointer and DC this morning.
  19. Good point on greater resale options for the 120. I didn't think about that at all.
  20. So I just happened to check Craigslist, and the PJ-882HH is on there in "like new" condition with the mobile base. Listed for $3200. That is pretty steep for a used unit, isn't it? I verified that the Powermatic warranty does not transfer between owners. The price for a new unit (not available until July) is 3195 for the jointer plus 250 for the stand.
  21. After YouTube binging on DC videos, I am really leaning towards the mini gorilla. Given the size of my space, I see some real advantages of being able to wheel the unit around from machine to machine. Since this is my first real dust collection system, I also expect that I will eventually be replacing this as I figure out what works best for me. Definitely going to hold off on installing piping for now. The gorilla comes in a 110v and a 220v. I already have an electrician coming to add another 220v outlet for the jointer. Would there be a real advantage in having the 220v version of the m
  22. Wow. I assume you don't work for Oneida. Haha.
  23. Head space is not a concern at all in this case. The guy that built this house was obsessed with ridiculously high ceilings. The part of the garage where the DC will be installed has at least 15 feet of headroom. So when I clocked on the CV link that you posted, I saw an option for a version of the unit that vented outdoors. I need to double check some things, but I believe running a vent out from the garage would be very straightforward; we have an LED transformer that pops out of the wall in a similar spot. I didn't even think about venting outdoors until now. Would this provide any adv
  24. Sorry for any confusion. I didn't buy a Supercell yet. I was just talking with the folks at Oneida about options. The guy that I am buying the jointer from suggested the Jet 2HP cyclone that you have. Given your experience with that machine, would you go with the Jet or the Supercell? It looks like the Jet is 1700 and the Supercell is 2400.
  25. This (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/powermatic-8-parallelogram-jointer-with-helical-cutterhead-model-pj-882hh?gclid=Cj0KCQjwna2FBhDPARIsACAEc_VPSMja0jPOrVhv8ecq_z0eJVsR3xx5gFMIqTu4emHRNSdJSKIcwN4aAqhfEALw_wcB) is the jointer. The Woodcraft site says a minimum of 800 cfm. If you go to PM's site (http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/pj-882hh-jointer-2hp-1ph-230v/1610082) it says the minimum CFM is 450. The spec sheet I got from Oneida said the mini Gorilla is rated at 583cfm, and the SuperCell is rated 465CFM. If the SuperCell would work AND be good for hooking up small port tools