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Posts posted by Kevinartman

  1. On 7/6/2021 at 5:40 AM, curlyoak said:

    Nice work. Which Waterlox product did you use? Thanks

    Sorry I just saw your question. I used the VOC compliant satin finish waterlox. My latest project, which you can in the Finishing forum, I used shellac and Liberon Black Bison paste wax instead of the Waterlox.

    Thanks for your question.


    • Like 1
  2. On 8/2/2021 at 9:26 AM, Chestnut said:

    I think you did the right thing bringing a Stickley piece back to life and looking great. Good work. Your thread gave me a bit of a push to restore a couple pieces I've had sitting around. The first is a QSWO office char from a rural post office. I know nothing about it other than it had a shellac finish.


    The second piece is a oval table. It needed some repair but was in overall good shape. The table has a drawer and is on casters which confuses me. This is after the finish was scraped off but before sanding and dyeing.


    I'll be finishing them both with the same recipie. I mixed a quart of warm water with 4:1 parts of dark mission brown and Light Oak. I applied the dye then did an initial coat of dewaxed shellac then 3-4 coats of wiping poly.

    Hey Chestnut,

    Yeah, there is something rewarding about pumping life back into a piece of furniture that someone, a long time ago, worked on. It feels like traveling back in time and that you almost know the craftsman who built these. Looks like you are doing a great job. Keep doing what you do.



    • Like 1
  3. On 8/1/2021 at 11:09 AM, gee-dub said:

    I'd say you won that battle.  I refinished one dresser for LOML.  The lesson I learned is similar to yours but I would probably not keep walking . . . I would start running.  There are a few folks on the forums that make a living doing restoration and they are true artists.  They are not me :)

    Thanks Gee-Dub,

    Misery loves company.

  4. Hello again,

    As promised, I am posting some photos of the finished product. I feel a little defeated, but the lessons learned were worth the effort. One lesson is, when you see an antique piece that has been painted white, keep walking! I decided to go "old school" at the end using shellac and wax.

    Thanks again for your comments.






    • Like 2
  5. On 7/15/2021 at 12:05 AM, Barron said:

    I’d try a little stain. Stain has larger sized pigments than dye that may fill the pores enough to hide the little specs of paint. As suggested above, try it on a small area to see if it helps. Good luck. 

    I hope you are right, I was uncertain if the stain would solve the problem. I am using GF antique walnut gel stain. I will post my progress.


  6. On 7/14/2021 at 8:30 PM, Barron said:

    If the top photo is after the dye, what is the problem?  You have done a good job of blending the sap wood into the heartwood. Once stained and finished, the sap wood should be pretty well blended in.  I would probably test finish that one slat to confirm (and limit the sanding if it doesn’t work).




    Hi Barron, Yes the dye, Trans tint is a great product, but maybe these are not the best photos to illustrate my problem. There is white paint in the grain that I will have to hide somehow. Here is a better photo.

    Thanks for your comments,



  7. On 7/14/2021 at 8:25 PM, wtnhighlander said:

    Paint is really, REALLY hard to remove from oak, but I don't see any that I can positively identify. If you still see flecks in the grain, I'd suggest taking a card scraper to those spots.

    Yeah,I really got myself in a pickle(no pun intended). Thanks for your input.



  8. Hi everyone, I could use some advice. I took on a job as a favor to Father in Law. Two L and J.G Stickley side chairs that had been painted white, stripped(probably dipped), and than coated with latex polyurethane. In the photos you can see my problem. I sanded relentlessly from 80 to 180 and thought that I could cover up the white in the grain with paste wax after the Dye, sealer, stain and Waterlox. The photo shows the oak after the Dye. Any suggestions?



  9. On 6/30/2021 at 9:25 AM, Mark J said:

    How did you do it?  Is the fit around the dowels fairly loose?  If so what did you use for adhesive?

    Hi Mark J,

    I made the rail from two pieces glued together. I clapped them together first, then drilled the dowel holes, separated them and glued them around the glued dowels. the fit around the dowels was a bit loose, but the glue filled in any gaps. I used Titebond III, although polyurethane glue would have been a good choice too.

    Thanks for your interest,


  10. On 6/28/2021 at 8:52 PM, wtnhighlander said:

    @Kevinartman, the original poster, @Evans_Woodcrafts, has not logged in since 2019, so you may not get a direct reply. Feel free to open a new thread discussion to get input from more members.

    @Kevinartman, the original poster, @Evans_Woodcrafts, has not logged in since 2019, so you may not get a direct reply. Feel free to open a new thread discussion to get input from more members.

    Thanks, upon further review of the post, I realized that the original post had the information I needed.



  11. On 6/28/2021 at 8:49 PM, wtnhighlander said:

    That is a touch red, but it looks awesome!

    Hi yes it is more red than the original finish most likely was. (See photo of what was left of this finish when I began). The photos of the sample colors in the Jewitt article are not exactly representative of the actual results, I should have tested more. Will try to do better on the two L an J.G. Stickley side chairs that are my next project. Thanks for your feedback.



    • Like 1
  12. On 6/29/2021 at 8:31 AM, Chestnut said:

    Can you provide a link to the Jewitt article? I have some a couple old oak pieces I'm goign to attempt to restore for my dad.

    Hi, Sure, the link is I followed the sample #4 and it came out too red, Like the old adage says: test, test and test. I ordered other colors of the Trans Tint dyes and will use one that is more brown on my next project; restoring two L and JG Stickely side chairs. I substituted Waterlox satin finish instead of the General Finishes Arm R Seal, which is a urethane product that doesn't penetrate the wood as well as Waterlox, which is a varnish/tung oil formula. Good luck with your project.


    • Thanks 1
  13. Hi, could you tell me what TransTint dye you used. I followed Jewitt's directions for this Limbert chair that I restored. It is redder that I wanted. Also, I used Waterlox instead of the General Finishes Arm R Seal he recommended.


    And Great job by the way,