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Everything posted by dlamulle

  1. Mike, Thanks so much for your reply. I've been using this finish for years, got it from an article in Fine Woodworking by Garrett Hack in 1997. I am fine with top coating with ARS but wanted to make sure it would be compatible. Would any type of wipe on urethane or poly work as well? I can scrape it down to bare wood and start again but she so wants to use it for Christmas. Waiting until this weekend would give it 10 days curing time. It's indoors with 74 deg. temp and low humidity so it sure cure faster. More opinions are welcome as well. Thanks all. Dave
  2. I just finished a Walnut topped Kitchenette for my daughter and delivered it yesterday. She had been bugging me since I finished it and I gave in and brought it over a little bit sooner I guess than I should have. She placed a glass of cold water on the top for about 30 seconds and it left a very slight ring which you can see if you look at it from the side. I'm pretty bothered because I thought my finish would have repelled that but I'm not sure if it's my finish choice or maybe didn't cure long enough so I'm looking for some advice please. I used the 3 part-BLO/Spar Varnish/Turpentine ble
  3. Thanks D, Yeah, I know I could spray NCL but I'd rather apply the wipe on if it would work fine in this application. I've been trying to get away from the heavy fumes and I don't have a booth or area I can spray something this large in. My small projects I just opened the doors of the shop and let it air out, but this is way too big for that. I could wipe on a coat a day and be done in a week if the finish would hold up to kitchen abuse. I know Gregory uses 3-2-1 in his awesome book on cabinets but I'm not sure how it would work on the Sapele. Maybe I should do a couple of test boards
  4. Hey Guys, As a favor to a good friend I have decided to build him some kitchen cabinets for his home. I have about 300 bf of sapele in my shed so I plan on using this for his project. This is a "favor" so no money here at all, just the love of woodworking and knowing you did a friend a good turn. Here is the question, I'm using pre-finished maple plywood for the boxes and the Sapele for face- frames, drawers and the frame and panel doors. I will be using solid panels not plywood for the doors. I've only ever used BLO that I let dry 14 days with a few coats of Lacquer when
  5. Well, you could just remove the wax, coat it with shellac then gloss it. You just have to be sure all the wax is gone. Remove it with the solvent that it's thinned with and you can find that on either the back of the can or the PDS. (Product Data Sheet) Not to be confused with the MSDS sheet. Dave
  6. Not to my knowledge. Nothing sticks to wax except more wax. Dave
  7. I usually use 48 grit to shape and 60 or 80 to sharpen. Either will work fine just use a light touch and get a fine burr. Dave
  8. I loved the two brownies, they were a hoot. She wasn't evil just morally challenged is all. Dave
  9. I must say your first attempt at a frame came out wonderful. I wish my first attempt would cave turned out so wonderful. Great Job! Dave
  10. Thanks John for the side view of the hinge and leg for holding things in place, this was very helpful. My wife likes the idea so with the approval of SWMBO I will start soon. I wish I was good with Sketchup so I could draw up some different styles before I make some poplar prototypes. Maybe I need to sit down and start practicing until I can get the hang of it. Well, for now I'm back to the shop to work a bit on my Morris chair then I'll draw some on it tonight. I'll keep you all clued in on how it progresses. Dave
  11. Hey john, I love the headboards on that bed!. How are the individual sections hinged to move and how are they locked in place so they don't shift while reading? I can work with those proportions for sure and can fit in some G&G design elements as well. Thanks so much for this photo. I had been admiring the other ideas as well as continuing the drawing process myself but you hit me with a different direction with this. A hearty thanks to all others who sent their input as well. I appreciate all your help. Dave Dave
  12. Hey Dave, I might have given you the impression I screwed my walls but I had actually said or meant to say my floors. I did use T&G 3/4 ply on the floor and I screwed it down. I might not use T&G again because it prevents you from pulling up just 1 panel to work below it but it does keep the edges even. I have had to unscrew sections of the floor to add my second TS and my jointer. I might plan a chase thru the middle of the shop that isn't T&G to make easy access if I ever do it again. My wife tells me this is my last shop but I think I might be able to squeeze in an a
  13. Hello friends, My wife has informed me today we are about to make a complete bedroom change and I need to get cracking on a new bed. I'd love to build something in a style similar to G&G but it doesn't have to be exact. These are my problems at the moment: One-- My wife HATES our present bed because of the footboard. She wants the end of the bed to look nice but no footboard at all. She wants ease of making the bed and she loves to sit on the end of the bed to do things. Two-- We need a sturdy headboard that is high enough to prop up lots of pillows to read or watch TV or read
  14. I talked with a guy who has a Woodmizer mill close by and I hope to cut it up this week. I'm putting some water on it to keep it damp everyday until then. I'm wondering whether I should cut the log in half with the trunk end shorter or both the same length. Should I cut it all 4/4 or perhaps the smaller portion thicker and the larger trunk 4/4? Suggestions please, I've never milled a log before. I'll take a photo Monday and post it so you can see the before, then I'll post the after. Now I want to go looking for more in that canal. Dave
  15. Hey all, I had something interesting happen today and I'm not sure where to go from here. I own a heavy construction company here in Louisiana and this morning we were preparing to drive some pilings for a boathouse down near Shell Beach. The first piling we tried struck something under the water and about 6' deep under the mud. We couldn't move the shed so I decided to have the crew try to move the obstruction. Four hours later I'm the proud owner of a cypress log about 25' long and 2' in diameter with the root base still attached. I cut the end of the log clean and counted 161 rings.
  16. Hey Dave, Thanks for the kind words and I hope I can be some help to you on your journey. First, I love the epoxy paint. It's hard but durable. It doesn't make the floor any harder to stand on by any means and it's NOWHERE as hard as concrete. Second, if I had to do it all again I would put the 2x4's on 16" centers as you suggest. It doesn't affect many of my tools but it does the large and small bandsaws and my drill press. I had to put another piece of 3/4 plywood under each to get a good no rock situation. I used T&G plywood and I would have used regular 3/4" if I ha
  17. I did order the mission nightstand as well as the Aurora nightstand. I ended up building the Aurora because I went with a Greene and Greene style bed but the plans we both great. Dave
  18. Hey all, I'm headed to the Marc Adams School of Woodworking this April from the 10th to the 16th for my first class of this year. Is anyone else going to be there for those dates or perhaps other dates during the year? I'll also be there in May and August. I'll look up the dates and post them if you might be there around then. I'm bringing boiled crawfish for the April trip but I bring Boiled shrimp for the other two classes so it's always a great time. Dave
  19. Hey, I've ordered probably 7 sets of plans from them and I'm happy with what I've got. I had a messed up order once but they made it right immediately so they are good at customer support from my opinion. You will get one or two large sheet plans ( 2'x3') with measurements and a booklet with instructions to complete the project. If you are expecting several pages of detailed drawings you might be disappointed but you definitely have what you need to build the project you purchased. I've taken a couple of their plans and modified them to fit what I needed but they gave me a good basis fo
  20. The easiest way to cut the veneer piece off the waste plywood is the tablesaw. Hold a piece on edge and set the fence to cut just below the veneer then make a rip cut. You can then trim the piece off easier. Dave
  21. Well I'm sorry to say I've had a bit of a setback here. I got back from the Atlanta Woodworking Show with a truckload of new toys for my shop, I was off the rest of the week due to Mardi Gras, I was looking forward to setting things up and testing some new stuff out, basically I was pumped. Wednesday morning just before dawn, a storm blew threw that spawned a few tornadoes very close to me and I guess it was a little too much for one piece of the metal ridge cap on my workshop. Maybe it was weakened from Katrina who knows but it gave way and let a deluge of water into my shop. The mai
  22. Cut a piece of veneer from another piece of plywood that was left from building the table then use a VERY sharp chisel or a router with a templet and a very small bit and cut out a piece of the damaged veneer and reglue the new piece down. Never cut a square out because that is too obvious maybe an odd irregular shape that follows some grain lines or a knot that would make it less noticeable and you should be able to get a great grain match due to the slip matching on the plywood. The other choice would be to make an accent there like a real inlay. If it would look odd having one there only
  23. The easy way is to get a Beadlock jig and use floating tenons. I built a gaming table that was 5' x 12' and I had full size 2" x 6" hard maple skirts and let me tell you I tried normal tenons and they almost killed me. Besides being so darned long they were heavy as all get go. I bought a Beadlock jig and doubled them up at each leg and I was done in an hour. The edges are crisp and square and they all fit perfectly the first time. This table has been in a move twice and I've had not one problem at a joint or anyplace else for that matter. If you don't want to buy a jig you can use your
  24. Hey brother, First, I would ask the size of the table. Second, if the table is big enough to allow you to set the legs in from the skirt I would build a socket for the leg that you could put a bolt thru and would be able to support the leg from all four sides. If your skirt on this table is only 2" wide the racking force of a huge leg like that would be more than it could possibly take. Perhaps I don't have the proper mental picture of the table but from the photos I looked at it's very hard to tell dimensions. If your skirt board is at least 4" wide you can use just a diagonal if the c
  25. When I was at the Atlanta Woodworking show last weekend I watched a demo of the 1050 Apollo HVLP sprayer. It was impressive with the amount of control the unit gave. I noticed a black painted drawer front also on the display table that was perfectly smooth and glossy. I asked how many coats of clear finish were put over the black paint and the gentleman replied it was 3 coats of acrylic black from home depot sanded between coats with no clear coating. I was amazed to say the least. He said if you can achieve very fine spray and sand between coats anyone can get the same results. I imagine