Pbmaster11

Members
  • Content Count

    598
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Pbmaster11

  1. The rule of thumb in the table saw world is to have the the blade protrude just a bit from he top of your work piece. Maybe a saw tooth height, 1/8", or 1/4". Well I was making some cuts and noticed a few things and I want to discuss this. I was making a shop cabinet for my table saw (to maximize storage)... I was using every scrap piece of wood in my shop to use it up and make the project affordable. As I was ranging from MDO, to MDF, to Melamine shelving, to traditional plywood. The heights were a bit different. I had my blade height set to protrude out a safe distance. I am using a frued combination blade (close to new, very sharp). As I was cutting I was noticing a little tear out... nothing to be alarmed but as you know us woodworkers don't like any tear out at all! So I raised the blade a bit... the tear out stopped. My theory... The higher the blade height (to a certain point) results in a cleaner cut, by creating a direct downward cutting action. When the blade is a the "safe" working height it can create a cutting angle that isn't the steepest... possibly resulting in tear out. Now I did not have the blade sticking out 3 inches from my work piece. I am talking 3/4" -1 1/2". Thoughts? EDIT: I am talking about tea rout on the top of the material.. NOT THE BOTTOM.
  2. I am sick of my peg board hooks falling out when I grab a tool. They never seem to stay. I have tried hot glue... staples... etc etc. Never works. I have created the solution! You can space the pegs to custom fit. They are a tight fit in the peg board and do not fall out. There are bottom pegs that are there for support.
  3. Where can you get one of these tanks?
  4. Does OSHA have regulation on a hobby shop or personal activities? just curious.. my guess is no?
  5. Happy Friday, I have purchased my lab multiple chew toys (raw hides, nyla bones, etc etc) and they have yet to hold up to his intense chewing needs. I have found this product and have come to love it. They are expensive but last quite a long time. They are made of some saw dust, synthetic material and some sort of binder. From what I have read this product is super safe and isn't any issues. at first the saw dust caught me off guard but I kept reading. My question to you, could I make my own? What would the best saw dust be to use? What about a binder?
  6. I am going to purchase the hinge system for the Festool tracks to make my own MFT3 style station. 90 degree cuts only. Any design recommendations out there? Clamping, how to install the hinge system, holes in top, etc, etc?
  7. standard shop items table saw router router table band saw drill press hand planes (no molding planes)
  8. My client wants this molding on a bookcase but I believe the size of the molding is too small for the bookcase (4'x7')... I would like to create this molding bigger. Thoughts?
  9. What woodworking magazines do you subscribe to?
  10. http://www.finalcutblade.com Has anyone used one? Thoughts?
  11. I think I am going to install vented NG myself. I will have hvac guys stub in connection at patio for me
  12. Vic, I would like to put a heat source in my small 1.5 stall garage shop. My options I am considering are below Natural gas heater (vented) Natural gas heater (non vented) Wood Stove NG (Vented) The NG heater (vented model) was quoted to get installed for $1700. This includes all materials and labor. I cannot seem to bite this bullet. I would like to install this unit myself. The only thing I would think would be difficult would be tapping off of the patio supply (grill and gas lantern), which I am thinking of hiring them just to stub it in for me. i can then run the pipe and install the heater and vent. Any experience in installing these? ANY SUGGESTION ON MODEL? NG (non vented) A simpler version of the NG heater due to not requiring the vent installation. My concerns are:Fumes Humidity ANY SUGGESTION ON MODEL? Wood Stove I have been wanting to go this route so bad but I only have 1.5 stall garage and floor space is at a premium. Is the venting/piping the same as a NG install? Concerns with wood stove, [*]Space required for unit (looking for smallest unit but not sacrificing too much to limit log capacity) [*]Space required around the unit [*]Following code around the stove for non-combustible material [*]Increase insurance [*]ANY SUGGESTION ON MODEL? I have looked high and low and am just short of calling the building department of the city to find building codes and installation requirements... any idea on where to look for this? Any other options to heat this space? I am looking at NG due to cheap cost of running compared to electricity.
  13. I have taken the piece out from under the weights. The first side I did I used too much glue... it foamed and separated at spots. On the other side (now the good top) i use a very thin layer. Much better bond and no separation.
  14. I was watching a workshop video on fine woodworking and it was in the background. No other info. Just curious, I too speculated a thicknesser