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    Fine furniture making, hand tools, design.

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Drbwwing's Achievements

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  1. Jointing boards wider than your planer trick- Rip some ply 6” and set the board on it with the “ledge” hanging off and sent it through your planer. Flip and plan off the lip.
  2. Drbwwing

    Tool Chest Fin3.JPG

    About 40 pounds!! I was going to make a stand for it. I never used it. The top compartment was fitted for hand planes, by the time it was loaded with tools it would have been too heavy to move. My wife has repurposed it for her sewing room.
  3. I would definitely put ducts on inside, once you've got your shop layout decided you can move them, but you won't want to. Re: finishing room, hard to say, that depends on the size and number of items. For example, you've got 12 cabinet doors to finish, you want enough room for a rack. When I did my kitchen I had a 12x24 area and it was just about right. So I would think 12x12 would be a minimal size. You can't always use a turntable and need to move around a piece that takes real estate away from the shop. My suggestion is maybe dedicate one corner of the shop and install a good exhaust fan. Use either removable panels or zip barriers to create the room. The way the area is available for use. Benches or machines you have the area would be mobile. You will be surprised how quickly 1200sf won't seem like enough!
  4. I can only speak from my experience using the tool and that others have had the same issues. I've registered off the plate, as well as the table, either way, I would find errors in alignment cropping up enough for me to think I'm either doing something wrong, or its the tool. I took a look at the ergonomcis of how I was holding it, and adopted the "hold the plug" hand position, thinking zero downward pressure should be good. I don't know if the Domiplate was developed for misalignment issues, or simply for plywood, but I know they talk about "fence drift". It may be one of those things that a tool in different people's hands can work differently.
  5. There is no question pinning add tremendous strength to a tenon. TMK, draw boring was prevalent during the hide glue days, and back then not all hide glue was created equally, so insurance was needed. In fact, many pieces of furniture were built with no glue at all - just drawbored tenons. The only instance I use them is for breadboards (which aren't glued). I agree with Coop^. Modern glues are simply not going to fail - the tenon will break off first. Movement within the joint can be in issue, particularly if the joint is under stress. IMO it goes more to the tenon design, making sure the fit is just right & there are good shoulders, etc. That said, there were no vacuums bumping in to legs back then either, maybe the hide glue joints might have only lasted 5 years instead of 200 LOL. In light of this, however, I will often pin tenons, truthfully more for show than anything.
  6. I would simply hand plane them. There isn't much danger if you have the skills. On half blind fronts, a protruding side on the bottom would actually be an advantage.....
  7. Future reference, Polyacrylic and the Target Coatings water based lacquers will not yellow.
  8. An heirloom for sure. Cherry is such a beautiful wood as it darkens with age. Great ww'ing skills & don't forget to sign your work so 100 years from now a ww'er who can really appreciate the craftsmanship knows to give some credit!!
  9. MDF holds screws poorly and does not glue well, either. Depends on weight, you could put a piece of 2x material on top. But IMO you are off with plywood or solid wood. Racking is also an issue, as it will be top heavy. +1 on a back, and anchor to wall.
  10. Yes, I did not get the perfect alignment, and I think others have experienced this, hence the Domiplate. If one has a Domino, sure, why would you use a router? That isn't the question, though. For the type of M/T in a table or larger project, you need an XL and that steps the price up appreciably. In a commercial shop, not doubt with quicker setup and accuracy it can be a huge time saver. I'm not anti-Domino, I'm saying shelling out $1200 for one sn't for everyone, when it isn't doing something another tool can do. Think of all the premium wood you could buy with that money. I always thought the ONE Festool I would buy was a Domino, and I found for me and my work methods, it was not the game changer I was expecting. BTW I bought mine 2 years ago for $850 and sold it for $1000 on Ebay in something like 3 hours. However, both my Festool sander and track saw are definitely game changers!
  11. Sorry, I see it but still don't believe it. He hasn't made some break through. If what he's "discovered" is real, the whole world of ww'ing, cabinet and door manufacturing would be rendered obsolete. IMO the test is flawed because he is pushing down with a narrow piece of steel parallel to the fibers, which is going to break soft wood very easily even if its not glued (think karate class). Compared to that, sure the end glue joint is stronger. If you disagree, then just butt blue those cabinet doors & aprons to legs. Sorry, but I don't see Kreg, biscuit joiners, dowellers, Dominoes or mortising machines becoming obsolete anytime soon.....