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About WoodClips

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    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 01/05/1979

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    Milwaukee, WI
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    Traditional woodworking techniques
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  1. If I were faced with this decision, my preference would be to attach the top with screws through slightly oversized holes. My rationale is that even though the two pieces will be moving in the same direction, there is no guarantee that they will be moving at exactly the same rate or the same amount. Giving them the ability to move independently eliminates any possibility of stress building up between the two pieces and leading to a failed glue joint or split board over time. Rory
  2. Two feet of extra width may not sound like a lot for $1400, but the difference between a three foot aisle and a five foot aisle could mean the difference between cramped and comfortable. Try creating a layout with some graph paper and pay attention to your aisle widths, then try to find a space in your house where you can get a feel for how wide a certain sized aisle feels. I bet the 14' width will feel a lot more spacious than you would suspect. I'm curious what the foundation requirements are in your area? Over here, I think my options would be six inches of gravel or a concrete slab if I was putting up a shed. I'm not sure at what size a "shed" requires a more substantial foundation than six inches of gravel. Does the manufacturer have a recommendation for the foundation? Have you figured out the cost of running electric to it and heating? The price you are being quoted sounds pretty attractive for someone who wants to get a shop setup with minimal fuss. Rory
  3. A less-expensive alternative is to make a simple mortising jig for your plunge router out of some 1/4" MDF or whatever you have laying around. 5/8" slot routed in the jig, 5/8" template bushing in the router, 1/4" or 3/8" spiral bit depending on the size of your mortises. Square up your mortises with a chisel, round over your tenons with a file or plane down some stock and use a round-over bit to make your own floating tenons. With a jig like this, I wouldn't be afraid to approach a project with 120 mortises. Rory
  4. In the article I mentioned, the author says, "On a typical panel, I glue the face veneer and backing veneer at the same time. I roll yellow glue onto the substrate, put the veneers in place and slide the whole package into the vacuum press. Before I had a vacuum press, I used cauls and deep-reach clamps to accomplish the glue-up, and that worked perfectly well, too." What I've seen done is create a sandwich with two layers of 3/4" melamine-covered particle board (the white shelf boards you can find at Home Depot) on both the top and bottom of your panel, and then some beefy hardwood blocks across the panel to distribute the clamping force. When you see a picture of this setup it looks like overkill, but you need a significant amount of clamping force to create a good glue bond when gluing down veneer. Yellow glue works fine in my experience for veneering panels. Rory
  5. Your idea isn't totally off base, but you want to be thinking in terms of creating a 1/16th inch thick veneer that is glued to both sides of an MDF or Baltic Birch substrate. If you laminated thicker pieces together, the different rates of expansion and contraction would lead to warping as one face expanded further than the other. With a really thin veneer, the forces from expansion and contraction in the veneer aren't significant enough to influence the relatively thick substrate, provided that you veneer both sides. Here's a Fine Woodworking article called Bandsaw Your Own Veneer that you may find interesting. You could design your project with frame and panel construction, using solid wood for the frame and veneered panels. Keep in mind that you will be trading a relatively small cost savings for a considerable amount of extra effort. If cost is a primary consideration and you don't want to go through all that work, a solid wood frame with a plywood panel may be a more practical way to go. Rory
  6. Since we are on the topic of making small shop spaces work, I thought I would include a picture of the cabinets I built for my planer and drill press (never got around to building the drawers for the drill press). Both cabinets have a pair of locking casters and a pair of fixed casters, and they are pretty easy to roll out of the way when not needed. For the planer, I feel like this is a much better solution than killing your back lifting it on and off your workbench. The drill press is sold in both a benchtop and stationary version, and going with the benchtop version means I don't need to find a permanent home for it. I've been pretty happy with this setup and would probably buy the benchtop machines again if I was doing it over and had to fit everything in a small space. Rory
  7. I've spent some time contemplating whether my 12' x 20' garage would make a better space than my current basement shop with its low ceiling, uneven floor and furnace in the middle of everything. As others have mentioned, a lot of it boils down to your personal preferences and how you work. Here are a couple factors that I felt were relevant to my situation: - My workbench also serves as my assembly table and finishing table. I like to have access to it from all sides, which means 2.5' to 3' minimum aisles. This chews up a lot of space, it it is also the focal point of my shop. - My contractor table saw has the capacity to cut about 30" to the right of the blade, but I can't remember the last time I used anything close to that much. The table saw really takes up a lot of space in a 12' wide shop, and as painful as it would be, I'd consider cutting down the rails to make it more compact. If I need to cut sheet goods down to size or cut down a glued-up panel, I can do that with my circular saw and a straight edge. Replacing the rails later would be a lot cheaper than buying an extra X feet of building you can't really afford. - I decided that I would like the ability to joint, plane and rip eight foot long boards, so I drew in eight foot rectangles on both sides of the respective machines to make sure I was leaving enough space. I've been doing a lot of remodeling lately and find myself working with eight foot pieces of trim on a regular basis. If I was strictly building furniture in my shop, I think I could probably get away with less. - While all my tools are on wheels, I really like the idea of having everything in fixed locations with dust collection and power hooked up. It is a real drag to have to haul out the benchtop planer or move things around to mill a single board. I've dealt with this scenario for a number of years in small shop spaces and I find it really frustrating. I've come pretty close to finding a fixed location for everything in the attached shop layout, with the exception of the planer, which needs to get wheeled a foot or so into the aisle. - When I'm buying lumber, I usually buy 50-100bdft at a time so I dedicated 10' on one wall to lumber storage. One major concern with a shop this size is finding a place to store scraps and odd boards. One option might be a wood burning stove in one corner. - I don't really use my miter saw that much for furniture projects, so I wouldn't allocate a dedicated space to it. In the event that I needed it, I'd set it up on a collapsible miter saw stand, which also provides work support. - I didn't include my drill press in the layout, but it sits on a cabinet with lockable casters. I don't really use it that often, so I would tuck it away in a corner and then pull it out when I needed it. I also have a oscillating spindle sander that would get similar treatment. - I would plan on building storage cabinets under the table saw outfeed table, under the table behind the workbench, and on the left wall. The planer, drill press and spindle sander also sit on cabinets with drawers. Combined, I feel like this amount of storage is roughly equivalent to what I'm using in my current shop. - I measured my garage and it is about 11' 4" on the inside (12' on the outside). The aisle down the center of the shop is about 3' (assuming I don't cut down my table saw rails), which is pretty tight. This is where going from a 12' building to 14' is going to make a huge difference. A five foot aisle is going to be much more comfortable to work in. Three feet is going to feel cramped (I currently have about this much to the left of my table saw, and it is totally adequate for working with the saw, but it would make for a cramped center aisle down the middle of the shop). In conclusion, I feel like a 12' x 20' shop is definitely a space I could work with. It should be possible to lay out the major tools with little or no rearranging required to use them for boards up to eight feet long. Material, tool and supply storage should be adequate. It will probably feel a little cramped, but keeping it clean, organized and well-lit will help combat that. In my own situation, I'm still on the fence about how it compares to my current space and whether I'd be better off sitting tight until I can afford something bigger. Rory
  8. As I mentioned in my previous post, I decided to use sliding dovetails to hold my case pieces together as well as hold the shelves in place. In this video, I walk through how I laid out the joints, built a jig for routing the grooves in the sides, routed the tails on the router table, and then dry-assembled the cases to make sure everything fit: Rory's Bathroom Cabinets Part II: Sliding Dovetails The joints on both cabinets came together pretty well with only minimal persuasion, but once together, the wall cabinet was pretty difficult to get apart. In the future, I think I'll use tapered sliding dovetails for joints beyond six inches in length. Next up are some odds and ends on the case sides (rabbets for the back panel, cutting a decorative curve on the bottom of the wall cabinet sides), surface prep, and then assembly. Once the cases are assembled, I'll take measurements off them for the medicine cabinet face frame and the doors. Rory
  9. Check out the James' Man Cave Shop Tour on TWW for a look at a 12' x 18' shop layout.
  10. Yeah, it sounds a little counterintuitive that I'd use sliding dovetails to try to make things easier, doesn't it? My case sides are only 7.5" wide, so I don't think I'm getting into the territory where I need to use tapered sliding dovetails or dovetails that are less than the full width of the side. I don't have a specific number in mind where a straight sliding dovetail would become impractical, but I've used sliding dovetails on this scale before without too many problems. The two things that I think are tricky about sliding dovetails are dialing in the setup on the router table to get the right fit, and then assembling everything without the joint seizing up mid-assembly. Once setup though, I expect cutting all the joints to go pretty quickly and smoothly. For assembly, I'm probably going to use something with a longer working time and less tendency to set up upon contact than PVA glue (urea resin, epoxy or maybe liquid hide glue, depending on what I can get my hands on easily) or only glue the last inch or so of the joint. I should have something to report next week (hopefully not that I gave up and used dados). Rory
  11. I'm really excited to be building along with the wall-hanging cabinet build. It is great to see that a number of people are building along with this project. My bathroom needed a new medicine cabinet as well as some additional storage space, so I'm going to be building two cabinets at once. This sounded like it could turn into more than I bargained for, so I incorporated a couple features into my plans to make my life easier: I eliminated the drawers, used sliding dovetails to connect everything together and am using common dimensions between both pieces to minimize the number of machine setups. My cabinets will be painted to match the color scheme in my bathroom, so I'll be using poplar and Baltic Birch plywood. I was hoping to keep pace with Marc, but I didn't quite get into the joinery this week. This week's work was all about finalizing plans and preparing stock: purchasing material, laying out the pieces, sawing, jointing, planing, ripping and crosscutting. Next week my goal is to get the sliding dovetails cut and the cases assembled so I can take measurements for the doors and face frames. If you are interested in following my progress, here's the first in a series of videos I'll be posting to document my build: Rory's Bathroom Wall Cabinets Part 1: Stock Preparation Looking forward to the next video, Marc, and thanks everyone for sharing your build progress. This is a great forum for sharing ideas and seeing different approaches to the wall-hanging cabinet theme. Rory
  12. WoodClips

    Wood Venner

    I have had good experiences ordering from VeneerSupplies.com in the past. Rory
  13. I'm curious why you say this, Doug? When we're talking about making a cut down the middle of a 2x12 that is supported on sawhorses, these are the safety factors that come to mind: Your hands are gripping the handles on the saw and are well away from the blade.The saw is well supported on both sides of the cut.The board is stationary and is heavy relative to the saw, so it isn't moving anywhere.If the saw somehow managed to send the board flying, it would be away from the operator (unlike a table saw).If the saw blade starts binding, it is still relatively easy to control the saw and release the trigger. In my experience, you don't get catastrophic kickback events with a circular saw used in the fashion like you would with a table saw, so I'm curious what prompted your statement. Maybe there is something I'm not thinking of. Rory
  14. I think Rob has the right idea. Why put yourself in a potentially dangerous situation when there is a safer alternative? Go buy a low tooth count blade for your circular saw for $15-$20 (Freud 14 tooth thin kerf TK503 for example), draw a line down the center of your boards using a straight piece of something as a guide, then cut them free hand with the circular saw. With a sharp blade, I don't think this is going to take much more time or effort than using your table saw, and it is going to be a whole lot safer. Let your boards sit overnight to stabilize because they are probably going to do some bowing. The next day, rip a piece of 3/4" plywood (or whatever you have handy) so it is slightly narrower than your narrowest board. Center it on a board, attach it in place temporarily with a couple screws (the holes will be hidden when you glue the boards together) and take a pass down both sides with a bearing bit in your router. Now all your boards are straight and the same width--no table saw gymnastics required. Rory
  15. Hello Mark, I think you are on the right track using your router table to make the rabbet. This can be done before or after assembly, but my preference would be to do it before so you don't have to maneuver the entire cabinet around and if you make a mistake you have the option of making a replacement piece. If you take a look at my illustration (viewing one corner from the back), you can see that on a typical joint one piece is rabbeted straight through (the top in my example) and the other piece has a stopped rabbet (the side). The stopped rabbet can be cut by making a pair of pencil marks on your router table corresponding to where the leading edge of the piece will be when you start the cut and where the trailing edge will be when you finish. If you take a look at the illustration, you'll also see that the curved corner that you need to clean up with a chisel is actually hidden from view when looking at the cabinet from the front, so as long as you are careful when you are cleaning it out it shouldn't have any visible effect on your rabbet. Rory