• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About WoodClips

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 01/05/1979

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • Twitter

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Milwaukee, WI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Traditional woodworking techniques
    Hand tool skills
    Design and craftsmanship
  1. If I were faced with this decision, my preference would be to attach the top with screws through slightly oversized holes. My rationale is that even though the two pieces will be moving in the same direction, there is no guarantee that they will be moving at exactly the same rate or the same amount. Giving them the ability to move independently eliminates any possibility of stress building up between the two pieces and leading to a failed glue joint or split board over time. Rory
  2. Two feet of extra width may not sound like a lot for $1400, but the difference between a three foot aisle and a five foot aisle could mean the difference between cramped and comfortable. Try creating a layout with some graph paper and pay attention to your aisle widths, then try to find a space in your house where you can get a feel for how wide a certain sized aisle feels. I bet the 14' width will feel a lot more spacious than you would suspect. I'm curious what the foundation requirements are in your area? Over here, I think my options would be six inches of gravel or a concrete slab i
  3. A less-expensive alternative is to make a simple mortising jig for your plunge router out of some 1/4" MDF or whatever you have laying around. 5/8" slot routed in the jig, 5/8" template bushing in the router, 1/4" or 3/8" spiral bit depending on the size of your mortises. Square up your mortises with a chisel, round over your tenons with a file or plane down some stock and use a round-over bit to make your own floating tenons. With a jig like this, I wouldn't be afraid to approach a project with 120 mortises. Rory
  4. In the article I mentioned, the author says, "On a typical panel, I glue the face veneer and backing veneer at the same time. I roll yellow glue onto the substrate, put the veneers in place and slide the whole package into the vacuum press. Before I had a vacuum press, I used cauls and deep-reach clamps to accomplish the glue-up, and that worked perfectly well, too." What I've seen done is create a sandwich with two layers of 3/4" melamine-covered particle board (the white shelf boards you can find at Home Depot) on both the top and bottom of your panel, and then some beefy hardwood blocks
  5. Your idea isn't totally off base, but you want to be thinking in terms of creating a 1/16th inch thick veneer that is glued to both sides of an MDF or Baltic Birch substrate. If you laminated thicker pieces together, the different rates of expansion and contraction would lead to warping as one face expanded further than the other. With a really thin veneer, the forces from expansion and contraction in the veneer aren't significant enough to influence the relatively thick substrate, provided that you veneer both sides. Here's a Fine Woodworking article called Bandsaw Your Own Veneer that you
  6. Since we are on the topic of making small shop spaces work, I thought I would include a picture of the cabinets I built for my planer and drill press (never got around to building the drawers for the drill press). Both cabinets have a pair of locking casters and a pair of fixed casters, and they are pretty easy to roll out of the way when not needed. For the planer, I feel like this is a much better solution than killing your back lifting it on and off your workbench. The drill press is sold in both a benchtop and stationary version, and going with the benchtop version means I don't need to
  7. I've spent some time contemplating whether my 12' x 20' garage would make a better space than my current basement shop with its low ceiling, uneven floor and furnace in the middle of everything. As others have mentioned, a lot of it boils down to your personal preferences and how you work. Here are a couple factors that I felt were relevant to my situation: - My workbench also serves as my assembly table and finishing table. I like to have access to it from all sides, which means 2.5' to 3' minimum aisles. This chews up a lot of space, it it is also the focal point of my shop. - My c
  8. As I mentioned in my previous post, I decided to use sliding dovetails to hold my case pieces together as well as hold the shelves in place. In this video, I walk through how I laid out the joints, built a jig for routing the grooves in the sides, routed the tails on the router table, and then dry-assembled the cases to make sure everything fit: Rory's Bathroom Cabinets Part II: Sliding Dovetails The joints on both cabinets came together pretty well with only minimal persuasion, but once together, the wall cabinet was pretty difficult to get apart. In the future, I think I'll use tap
  9. Check out the James' Man Cave Shop Tour on TWW for a look at a 12' x 18' shop layout.
  10. Yeah, it sounds a little counterintuitive that I'd use sliding dovetails to try to make things easier, doesn't it? My case sides are only 7.5" wide, so I don't think I'm getting into the territory where I need to use tapered sliding dovetails or dovetails that are less than the full width of the side. I don't have a specific number in mind where a straight sliding dovetail would become impractical, but I've used sliding dovetails on this scale before without too many problems. The two things that I think are tricky about sliding dovetails are dialing in the setup on the router table to ge
  11. I'm really excited to be building along with the wall-hanging cabinet build. It is great to see that a number of people are building along with this project. My bathroom needed a new medicine cabinet as well as some additional storage space, so I'm going to be building two cabinets at once. This sounded like it could turn into more than I bargained for, so I incorporated a couple features into my plans to make my life easier: I eliminated the drawers, used sliding dovetails to connect everything together and am using common dimensions between both pieces to minimize the number of machine
  12. I have had good experiences ordering from VeneerSupplies.com in the past. Rory
  13. I'm curious why you say this, Doug? When we're talking about making a cut down the middle of a 2x12 that is supported on sawhorses, these are the safety factors that come to mind: Your hands are gripping the handles on the saw and are well away from the blade.The saw is well supported on both sides of the cut.The board is stationary and is heavy relative to the saw, so it isn't moving anywhere.If the saw somehow managed to send the board flying, it would be away from the operator (unlike a table saw).If the saw blade starts binding, it is still relatively easy to control the saw and relea
  14. I think Rob has the right idea. Why put yourself in a potentially dangerous situation when there is a safer alternative? Go buy a low tooth count blade for your circular saw for $15-$20 (Freud 14 tooth thin kerf TK503 for example), draw a line down the center of your boards using a straight piece of something as a guide, then cut them free hand with the circular saw. With a sharp blade, I don't think this is going to take much more time or effort than using your table saw, and it is going to be a whole lot safer. Let your boards sit overnight to stabilize because they are probably goin
  15. Hello Mark, I think you are on the right track using your router table to make the rabbet. This can be done before or after assembly, but my preference would be to do it before so you don't have to maneuver the entire cabinet around and if you make a mistake you have the option of making a replacement piece. If you take a look at my illustration (viewing one corner from the back), you can see that on a typical joint one piece is rabbeted straight through (the top in my example) and the other piece has a stopped rabbet (the side). The stopped rabbet can be cut by making a pair of pencil m