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Everything posted by tperson

  1. Didn’t do it today, but I fell prey to a strawberry plant sale last week that included free shipping. Plants arrived Friday and we planted 250 strawberry plants yesterday, started at 930AM and walked in the house at 5PM…no lunch break. I had tilled the rows earlier last week so we hilled them with a rake, covered them in landscape fabric, and then came back and planted after that…ended up with 5, 50’ rows. Our garden grows a little every year, this year we’re adding strawberries and popcorn to our lineup. Last year we had a few hills of squash/cucumbers/zucchini get washed out and when we went to replant, the sharpie marker had faded off the flag…so we guessed what we needed. Ended up with 9 zucchini/summer squash and 1 cucumber…we ate sauteed summer squash/zucchini every night for 3 weeks before we threw the towel in and gave some away. Won’t make that mistake again!
  2. Slight change of plans and minimal progress: The brass corners were delivered and their thin-ness changed our inlay plans...I expected them to be about 1/8" thick and they turned out to be <1/16" so there's no need to inlay them. Working to slightly change the profile so the corner peak (?) is inverted to fit and look better (see pics). P got the rest of the stringing done on the lid and is half-way through the other part of the case...then we ran out of stringing. UPS resupplied us Tuesday but the weather was so nice, we opted to work on the range. Laid out and marked the shooting stations last night, the low house is now wired and the trap is roughly set, the inverter comes Monday and we should be hooping traps (hopefully) mid-next week. Still need to build a hoop and program the wireless releases before we can shoot a full round...which would be more fun if the weather would cooperate (been cold and WINDY).
  3. Coop - these are the ones I ordered: While they're not designed to be inlayed, we're going to give it a go (on a practice piece first). I realize that an over-the-top installation would offer more protection, but also more opportunity to snag stuff...and I like how they look (in my mind) flush. We'll have to add a little block in the corners (under the corner cover, over the panel) to support them better. I'm not wild about the scalloped look, we might customize them with a file to give a gentle curve. Of all the things on this project, these stinking brass corners have proven the most difficult to source in a style that matches the rest of the case while still being solid brass. I looked hard at the ones at VanDykes, but I was concerned about they way the mount, that the 'foot' protrusion will impede the lid from opening 180deg...and cost, I need 8. I'd say the jury is still deliberating about brass corners. I forgot to add an update the other day: I commissioned some custom brass feet to be made similar to these: Instead of 6mm tall feet, mine will be 0.290 and will double as a stop when the lid is fully opened. I could have turned them myself, but it was much easier to convince a pedigreed machinist buddy to do it for me. I supplied the brass and the dimensions, he supplied the time and talent.
  4. Progress has been slow, but we’re still chipping away. Since the last update, we’ve ordered some dark brown silver cloth (special anti-tarnish felt) for the interior, ordered some brass corner pieces which will be inlayed, and milled mortises for the hidden hinges on the pantorouter. I have to say, I’m proud of P…he laid out the hinge locations, transferred them to the lid and milled 90% of the mortises. When we installed the hinges, everything lines up perfectly…no gaps, no protrusions, just perfection. We got as far as we could last night laying out the interior, but weren’t done playing in the shop so I pulled out a seldom-used tool (my Veritas string inlay cutter) and explained it to P. His eyes got big when showed him what it’s used for and we spent the rest of the evening adding some 1/32 holly stringing into the outer lip of the case.
  5. funny you mention this wtnhighlander, that's exactly my plan...I switched to 7.25" circular saw blades in my 10" tablesaw several years ago and refuse to go back. You think a 3Hp 10" saw is powerful, put a 7.25" blade on it...and push as fast as you want, it'll eat it.
  6. 'tis but a minor setback. Her (and my) plan is to make several different sizes once we get it figured out...and resupplied with cherry. Heck, we might even make a lid or two!
  7. Those of you with kids in 4-H understand “4-H Flops”…well, yesterday M and I had one of our own when making her shaker box. I prepped the blank several weeks ago (resawed my last piece of cherry, milled it to 0.96”, raised the grain) and yesterday she cut the fingers, marked the tacks, and put it in the steambox. She did a great job clinching the tacks and keeping everything lined up…we were on our way to success when I pushed the drying form into it and split the blank. Crap. The kicker is that I made two other boxes from the same board without a hiccup and this happened to be the last piece of cherry in the shop. She did seem a little excited when I told her that this means we have to go to the sawmill now for her to pick out a new board (usually a boys trip). Thanks for letting me whine about our failure...I'll show myself out. I know that it may look like I distracted her at the bandsaw, I didn't...if you look close, it's not even running.
  8. Progress on both the shotgun case and skeet range have been slow. We were able to get the dovetails cut on the pantorouter and recess cut for the panels last week and I spent 2 days trying to find clear 15 min epoxy in town; 5 min in stock everywhere, but I was afraid we needed more time to assemble. Yesterday we got the case glued up and tomorrow I’m going to go see a fellow woodworker with a higher-capacity drum sander so we can face the top and bottom before we split it (my Ryobi only has a 3.25” capacity, I need 3.5”). Anyway, pics are below with more on the way as we continue to forge ahead.
  9. long story short, I didn't buy the saw Friday...the seller attempted to sell the entire lot of equipment to another guy before I got there (even though he knew when I was coming and that I was interested). Well, the other guy backed out of the package deal Saturday and he offered me the saw for the original price...I countered, significantly lower ($1k). I spent some time yesterday looking at craigslist for 14"+ bandsaws, at it appears that this 'missed opportunity' may not be an opportunity at all; there's bigger resaw bandsaws within 3hrs of me for the same (or slightly less) money. We'll see if he contacts me and accepts my new offer, stay tuned.
  10. Thanks, those are my thoughts exactly...might be a little high priced, but the next opportunity may be years from now.
  11. I have an opportunity to purchase a 3-4yr old Shop Fox W1849 2Hp resaw bandsaw (14”) with “5-6hrs of use” on it for $1500. From what understand Shop Fox is essentially identical to Grizzly, the difference being a dealer network and a (now expired) 2 year warranty. The SF bandsaw currently sells for $2339 shipped and the Griz equivalent $2140 shipped. The two hundred dollar difference is ~10% of the purchase price, so it’s worth noting. Is this a good enough deal I need to jump on it, or should I save a little and purchase new? The seller has made it clear that there won’t be any negotiation, the price is the price. I know it’s a quick turnaround, but if anyone can talk me out of it it’s you guys. I'm going to look at it at 5 tonight, so if you have any feedback that you can give quickly, it'd be much appreciated. Before the conversation turns to 'justification'...let me say this: in my area (the woodworking equipment vacuum of southeast NE) used, quality equipment doesn't come around very often and this is the first saw I've seen in 5yrs that's setup for resawing. I'm not a production shop, just a hobbyist, but a fairly serious one and resawing happens fairly often in my shop (currently with my tablesaw)...this has the potential to save me a lot of sawdust and screwing around. So…thoughts? Thanks in advance, Tom
  12. I finally had time to fix the tractor I purchased last fall (a IH 544u). It was an auction purchase and when we were trying to get it started I spun the fuel solenoid on the base of the carb without a wrench (like an idiot) and broke it. A replacement is $150. Dangnabbit. Today I carefully cut the case and used a couple of screwdrivers to pry open the canister. As I suspected, I broke the hair-sized wire. After 10 minutes with the soldering iron, it was fixed but I still had to figure out how to crimp the can closed. Made a quick little clamp and tapped it with a hammer/punch to reset the crimp...and it works! Might seem like a small victory, but $150 in my pocket is a good day...especially when the orthodontist said today that our 13yr old will need $5k in braces (after insurance). Crap.
  13. Was working in the shop this afternoon and thought I’d post a cheaper alternative to Stop Loss bags (but still as effective). I ordered some drink pouches off of amazon and use them to store my finishes in. You can see from the picture that I mixed this batch of poly/mineral spirits over a year ago, and it's still good…can you say that about the can of poly you opened 2 months ago? I couldn’t, the throughput of my shop is too low. Like many hobbyists, I wasted more finish than I ever used, unless there was a specific need to use the whole can. This is what I ordered: and will order again when I use my last one. Hope it helps, it was the best $11.78 I've spent in a long time. Tom
  14. Curlyoak: [mentioning brass corners] yes, they are on my radar and I believe are a definite must. That said, the ones you sent are nicer than what I had envisioned, thanks. Man of wood: “just built it, no matter what you put on it will dent.” I believe you’re correct. Coop: “…I feel the fiberglass will palasticize the look.” That was one of my fears as well, unnecessary work/cost and unfamiliarity with the process were my others. Wow guys, thanks for the great suggestions, I expected nothing less from this community. I think where I stand now is to not fiberglass the panels but to make a thick veneer and bond them to a piece of ¼” ply (balanced, of course). Supposed to be nice weather here today and tomorrow so I really should work on the range. If I get after it, I can get the high house walk-in door reset, the roof on and the last 4 sheets of tin on the high house…and then put the traps in the houses! I leave on Sunday for Charlotte/Raleigh and wont be back until 2/5 so, whatever doesn’t get done tonight or tomorrow will have to wait (it might be a while before I have an update).
  15. wtnhighlander - now that's a great idea: fiberglass the panels and leave them at 3/8, brilliant. curlyoak - I don't have any experience with SOSS hinges, this is my first stab. I'm optimistic that the pantorouter will help make consistent holes and I plan on lots of practice with some pine. Thanks for the advice/warning. what are your thoughts on applying a finish over the epoxy (oil-based wipe on poly is my go-to)? If I sand to ~320-400, it should be OK if the epoxy is fully cured, right?
  16. I'm pretty fortunate to have him as a son. He's my shadow when I'm not at work and we do everything together. He's started getting into competitive scholastic shooting (skeet and sporting clays) so last year on Labor Day we started building a skeet range 200yds south of our house. Traps are sitting in the garage, low house is done except for trim, high house has made some progress since the last pic and only needs 2 more sheets of tin. Worked the sizing out today for a battery, solar cell, inverter, and wireless release.
  17. treeslayer - progress pictures attached. We're pretty active in 4-H so some of these pictures were staged...I didn't let him make the vertical cuts on the tablesaw, makes me nervous when I do it. I'll keep you updated as we come along. Next step is to use the pantorouter to cut the dovetails.
  18. Long time lurker, short time poster here…but I am in need of some advice from a group of woodworkers whom I’ve come to thoroughly respect. My son (13) and I are working on a carry case for his Beretta A400 that’ll be modeled after the case for my Beretta Teknys, except more extravagant(ish). The plan is to have spalted maple side panels (see picture) with a walnut case, SOSS hinges, some briefcase latches from Rockler, and (hopefully) a leather interior…maybe a little inlay, we’ll see. We’ve bookmatched the maple and milled it to ~3/8 to fill worm holes. The plan is to glue it to a piece of ¼” ply as a reinforcement backer (glued down the center to allow movement) and to mill it down until the maple is a thick veneer. I know, I know, a lot of expensive sawdust will be made, but I don’t have a bandsaw capable of handling the panels…or even a half-width panel. My question is: given the softness of the maple, do I need to fiberglass the exterior to reduce dents/dings or are they ‘character’? We’ll have a significant amount of time into this case and I hope it’ll last him a lifetime; will the dings tell a story of his life, or detract from the beauty of the case? If I fiberglass the panel, I’m not sure I can get it smooth enough to look nice…and I’m not sure I can get the panel thin enough without tearout/chipping/etc. So, I ask the brain trust: what would you do?
  19. Finish (skeet) shooting range Build small pistol range Frame out and finish basement bedroom Build a 10x20-ish greenhouse/garden shed Trench in hydrant to garden and get drip irrigation setup again Finish gun case for son’s Beretta A400 (walnut/spalted maple) Finish toy bulldozers Build miter station in shop and mothball the miter saw stand Seriously contemplate building an new dining table for our growing family add another 5 hives to the bee operation
  20. tperson


    I hope I didn't give you the wrong impression, I'm just a hobbyist beekeeper and only have about 15 hives. While I'm always trying to increase production (more honey = more money = more bees = more honey), winter survival is more important to me than honey (dead or weak hives don't produce much). Candy boards are cheap insurance to increase the odds of survival; protein supplements definitely help with brood-up and overall honey production and aren't necessarily needed... I'm not trying to steer the conversation, force opinions on you, or question your operation...but what do you use to treat for varroa mites (this is a genuine question)? We switched from ApiGuard and Apistan to OA (dribble then later sublimation) several years ago and have been very happy.
  21. tperson


    @JohnG, thought since I replied about solitary bees in another post that I'd pass along some bee advice in this thread too. I've found that (in Nebraska) mid-February is a super-critical time for bees. The bees are nearing the end of their winter stores and are getting ready to gear up for spring (by late Feb/early March our queens are in full egg-laying mode). In mid-feb is when I like to put a candy board on every hive, regardless of how much honey is left...I figure if they need/want it, they have it and if they don't, they can just ignore it. Candy boards are simple to make (look at for plans) and the candy is easy too. If memory serves, the recipe is 15# of sugar and 3c of water. Heat it to hard-ball (250-265deg) for 10 min and then add a couple of splashes of apple cider vinegar (to slightly increase acidity). IMMEDIATELY pour it in the candy boards and let it harden overnight. Be careful, not only is the candy 250deg+ it sticks like tar too. Once cool, put these on your hive(s) as supplemental feed. As I'm sure you know, honey is used to feed the adult bees and it's the brood that consume the pollen (as a protein). Spring brood-up strength and speed is dependent on the amount of pollen collected or stored...the more pollen (protein) they have access to, the faster they brood up. This is where a protein supplement comes in. I started a few years ago giving each hive a protein supplement at about the same time as the candy board (or 2-3 weeks later, weather depending) and have been amazed at the difference. The recipe that I use is 17# of HOT water, 42# sugar, 6c veg oil, 25# UltraBee...I made a 1/5th batch a few years ago and was surprised how much it made. With a couple of hives, you should think about a 1/20th or 1/30th sized batch. Mix it in a 5gal bucket until it makes a batter then roll it out between parchment paper until it's 1/4" thick and freeze it. Before you feed it, cut/poke little slits into the top and bottom for bee access. Here's my warning: be prepared to 2-4 weeks early. Mine brooded-up so fast that they caught me off-guard the first year and a couple of them swarmed. Being that you appear to be in NC, I'd estimate that it'd be about right to put candy boards on and in a few (2-3) weeks your girls should be close to ready for a protein supplement.
  22. I'm in the midwest and a beekeeper...pretty sure our university says that solitary bee 'hives' need to be taken down and cleaned or replaced every year. We have primarily leafcutter and mason bees here in nebraska...might do some research and see what the local bee authorities recommend.