davionics

Members
  • Content Count

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About davionics

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    cabinets and such...
  1. Pat, No, I'm not building the Humidor, a different project for now...thanks
  2. Awesome, that makes perfect sense, thanks Steve...
  3. Merry Christmas all...I hope Santa was kind to everyone! It was mentioned during the Humidor guild build to glue another veneer on the back side of the plywood and I understand the reasoning behind it but I'm looking for another route if possible. Can I use a veneered plywood such as poplar and glue my finish veneer on one side and the other side will already have a poplar veneer on it? It seems like this will work but maybe there are issues with glueing the veneer to another veneer??? I ask because I'm learning to cut my own veneers and plan to go no thinner than 1/8" but I don't want
  4. I just watched a video not long ago and it mentioned that some of the veneers are now being sliced instead of cut and the slices are so thin the paper backing is needed to keep it all together and give it some support. I've never worked with veneers either and was looking forward to doing this project with everyone but my financial cushion for things like this just went into replacing my engine control module on my truck. Let us know what you decide on and how it works out.
  5. thanks for the advice guys. the octagon was the plan for the ebony but even then it would be pricey. I'm not sure how the stained or dyed wood will work since i would want to sand the entire surface to ensure everything is perfectly smooth. At that point i would be sanding off the stain or dye. hmm, back to the drawing board, thanks again...
  6. Hello all, I'm hoping you may have some other options I could consider. What I want to do is build a round clock with burl maple on the face and trim the edges with solid wood ebony. The clock will be approximately 12” wide and when looking from the front of the clock the ebony should be about ¼ - ½” wide and ¾” thick around the outside edge. Initially I thought I could build a circle of ebony and plane it and the maple to the same thickness; then put one on top of the other and cut them out as an inlay with my scroll saw. But, with the maple also being ¾” thick, I think this would be a d
  7. Here's my thinking on using poly, use it for areas that will take a beating such as floors, end tables etc. so are there any advantages to using varnishes and shellacs? I guess I'm tyring to keep this simple and if i only use poly for all things like small boxes or general projects. I know I would want to go with lacquer if I were doing a set of cabinets to take advantage of the drying time. I guess in a perfect world I would have one finish, 4 different grits of sandpaper and do the same thing each time for a perfect finish...lol. Maybe i'll start another topic on this... Thanks every
  8. Ok, I had to re-read all of this again. So the Target coating I would spray on as a base and then apply the clear poly to get a gloss finish. How many coats of the base are generally required? I went to the Target web site and the shipping alone for a gallon is $18 to Ohio so how does Target compare to GF which I can get at a local woodcraft store? Thanks again for all the help... Dave
  9. Thanks all but I'm almost getting too much info...lol. I'm seeing undercoat and basecoat and topcoats. So give me the monkey version, If I want to color a project using WB products I would raise the grain first then... spray a base coat of what? clear poly or the paint? Then spray on the black poly? then spray on a topcoat of clear poly? so why the 3 processes? Can I just spray the GF black poly for all 3? Thanks Dave
  10. Enjoy the build and don't be shy about asking questions. There are many people here who have gone through this and they all have great ideas. It will be something you'll remember your entire life...
  11. Making mistakes sometimes is the best teacher but I have some question if you don't mind so I don't keep making the same type of mistakes. What did you see as my dry time mistake? You mentioned Target black and GF black, I have no ideas what you're referring to...? I'm hoping to find one particular type or brand of paint and stick with it so your words of "outstanding" is worth a looking into. If I want to do a coffee and end tables I would think poly would hold up the best. So if I want to use poly on this, why would I want to spray varnish or shelack? I'm thinking if I want to put a finis
  12. Ace, The finish turned milky in the heavy spots on the cabinet where I had to angle the spray gun and these areas had little cracking but this drawer was the worst. The areas actually show up against the black paint versus the other areas are just clear. The paint was semi gloss; I used a 360 wet/dry paper between coats; the paint I had to thin because it was really thick so I thinned it 4 parts paint, 1 water; I put the second coat of paint on about 4 hours and started the poly the next evening so 24hrs or so; I have the shop at 67 while I'm working in it and set it to 60 for the night while
  13. Hello all, I'm making a cabinet with drawers for my router table out of poplar and I ran into a problem during finishing. I sprayed two coats of Valspar waterbased semigloss interior paint/primer (black to match the table). Then I sprayed Minwax polycrylic, also semigloss. The first coat seemed fine until one drawer front looked like the finish cracked. I left the sanding dust to show up better in the picture. I think I sprayed the poly on too think and this caused the cracking but on the other hand I let it dry vertically so it would catch less overspray and I figured if I did spray too much
  14. You've been busy of late but do you remember me sending you pictures and details on the plywood floor I installed in my shop? Take a look at it again, it may help make up your mind on whether or not to go with plywood flooring or not. So far the floor has been great. I can already tell the difference standing on the plywood versus concrete and I'm sure this winter it will be nice standing on an insullated floor too. The only thing I would change is maybe not sanding between coats or at least use a heavier grit becasue once the saw dust starts flying the floor becomes slipery. I think thi
  15. Well, it's been a year since my last update and the garage/shop is 99% complete. It's been a very long year with many late nights and long weekends doing nothing but working on it but I can now look back and say it was worth it. While in the past I may have dabbled with minor projects such as electrical or building things out of 2x4s, this garage project has pushed my basic skills beyond what I had anticipated. Most of the work I did was a new experience where I had to research how it's done and then go out and do it from working with iron pipe for gas and compressor lines to building an elect