Dave H

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Dave H last won the day on April 24

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About Dave H

  • Birthday 10/10/1952

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rochester Washington
  • Woodworking Interests
    furniture, cabinets

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  1. Dave H

    Shorts Control

    I like it, it's better than my rolling cart method I'm moving that thing around as it seems it's in the way most of the time. Now I just need to build a bigger shop so I have an open area of wall space to build that tower of shorts!
  2. Take your insert out and while looking inside tilt your bade watch how the entire carriage tilts. So when the blade is raised in whatever angle it is raised in that plane. When the blade goes through the ZCI it slices through just the same as if it was slicing through at 90deg.
  3. I just move the fence over the insert but not so the blade could possibly rise up into it lock the fence down, then I use a scrap of wood and set it on the other edge of the ZCI hold the scrap down with your hand away from the blade turn the saw on then raise the blade through the ZCI.
  4. Dave H

    Shop Stools

    saw a video of a guy making a adjustable stool and he used a leg leveler for scaffolding https://www.amazon.com/Metaltech-M-MBSJP24H-Adjustable-Leveling-Jack/dp/B0065DKKPG/ref=sr_1_7?crid=9XBX355GRYSZ&dchild=1&keywords=scaffolding+legs+adjustable&qid=1633127728&sprefix=scaffolding+leg%2Caps%2C233&sr=8-7 I was going to make one someday. And I just found a video of someone making one I don't think its the one I remember though
  5. I do segmented turnings after gluing up the individual rings I have to send them through my 16/32 belt sander I've never had the rings break apart all the pieces are just glued end grain to end grain and aren't structured until the segments are glued to each other in a brick pattern I'm glad to know that end grain to end grain glue ups are stronger than I thought, I'm still going to baby the process anyway. Thanks for sharing.
  6. The only reason I can think of doubling the top the down forces of using the drill press, sometimes you will be bearing down on the handle when drilling through metal or using a dull bit, MDF would be less strong than say plywood.
  7. Is the joinery just butt joints glue and screws? If so I would add a back panel to keep the carcass from racking, even if you used dado's and rebates I would add a back panel.
  8. @wtnhighlanderThey hold up OK I make them for a certain project like the small door on my router table. I don't really use dowels in every project, on cabinet doors I use MT joints or loose tenons. I usually misplace them at some point. But I was a carpenter for 40yrs and I've made them on job sites for specific tasks they usually lasted through the task at hand if one had worn out I would make another they don't take very long to make. I personally wouldn't buy a doweling jig I don't think they would be anymore accurate than a shop made jig. And if I was in the market for one, what do they cost $50-$100 well I wouldn't bite the bullet and buy a $1500 Domino that's for sure. Woodworking is a hobby for me I enjoy making stuff and making jigs and, fixtures are enjoyable to me also. 4
  9. when I need a to use dowels I make a quick down and dirty on with some scrap wood, guide hole drilled at my drill press, a fence made from scrap glued and pin nailed to guide block I work off of a center line just like a biscuit cutter (and I assume like a domino I've never used one). Just like this one I made for a little door on my router table This method works well for me it costs virtually nothing and I can make one quickly just another option good luck.
  10. when I need to drill a hole in something where the forstner bits center is at the edge of the piece I clamp a sacrificial scrap or the opposing piece then I drill with no problems, or you can make it as complicated as you wish. I've done this hundreds of times try it with some scrap if you have doubts.
  11. I'm just glad the question isn't, will you put lotion on my back please! Not that there's anything wrong with that.
  12. I will defiantly be following the build, it looks to be quite interesting. But those ellipse instructions has really simplified this for me, my mother had a picture taken of my daughter when she was small maybe 3yrs old, 36 yrs ago the oval picture was printed on stretched canvas my mother wanted me to make a frame for this picture. The frame project was quite challenging for me, I had seen the nails and string trick but finding the exact points I needed was a mystery to me I ended up using the picture of my daughter to find the out side dia. of the of the elliptical frame by scribing a line with a compass around the picture than to find inside of the frames I couldn't use the picture anymore so I measured points off the scribed O.D. all the way around and, than used a set of French Curves to refine the shape of the frames I.D. Those ellipse instructions would have made my life so much easier and, I will save those instructions as they are the simplest explanation of the string trick I have ever seen thanks for sharing and good luck on the shelves.
  13. Are we talking glue joints or my ex wife?
  14. I agree with your logic I guess my other question would be how to determine the price of a used lathe that is 8yrs old and in good shape, everything works no rust, it has all it's parts and pieces and the manual. Is a fair price 50% of new or higher that is the part I'm questioning? I'm going to Craigs list to start I've never sold used equipment before, I given things to friends or relatives but this is worth a little more than I want to give someone plus I just bought the new lathe. Thanks for the reply John and Chestnut I guess I'll just start at 60% and see if that fly's.
  15. I've had my Grizzly G0462 16x46 lathe it's around 8yrs old, it has low miles I have no real complaints with my purchase. I bought a new Jet lathe that has a few things that the Grizzly lacks and now I'll have 2 lathes and it needs to go. My question is what should my staring price be new this model goes for 1,025 https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-16-x-46-wood-lathe-with-dro/g0462 I've heard that 50% of new price is what the buyer should expect to pay for used equipment, so what price would you start at so I get at least 50%? I usually don't sell woodworking equipment so this is a new situation for me, any advice would be helpful. thank in advance.