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AndyG last won the day on September 24 2018

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About AndyG

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  • Woodworking Interests
    box making, furniture making

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  1. Forgot to come back and thank you for the replies. I ended up picking up the 52” Incra LS fence and will set it all up this week. I don’t see myself ripping wide widths with the table saw, in fact I rarely do anything wider than around 20” as I use my track saw. I do however use the fence as a reference for crosscutting legs, aprons etc so hopefully when I get it all setup it’ll allow me just enough capacity for that purpose. Cheers
  2. Hi all, Got an opportunity to buy a used 52” Incra LS TS positioner. Where I’m planning to put it I have at least 2600mm or around 102” . The issue is, the right hand side of the saw will be against, or around 200mm/8” from the wall. Just wondering if anyone with the same system could kindly please measure what the max rip capacity would be if the positioner extended past the rails by 8”? I plan on having the rails installed so they’re as flush with the left side of the saw (Jet Xacta cabinet saw) as possible. I hope this makes sense. Regards, Andy
  3. Great work it looks beautiful! I’d be interested to know if you changed any of the processes second time around? And I agree 100% re the back slats, they’re a lot of work. Cheers
  4. Thanks for the reply Bmac. It certainly makes sense, and I had planned to finish to 400 also. So you reckon granat is the way to go with the RO90? And do you just use the interface pad? I’m also interested to know what finish you use? I was initially going to make up the maloof finish, but recently I’m thinking Osmo polyx. As for the back slats, I reckon second time around I’ll be more efficient. This goes for the whole rocker build. I found even after relieving the back and front of the 1/2” tenons, there still wasn’t enough movement to get the 3/8” tenons to fit in the headrest. I ended
  5. So this is where I’m up to. I’ve been slowly working on the back slats for a while now, been doing a bit of work on them then changing to something else. I’ll be honest, they are ALOT of work, and I’m finding the 1/2” round tenons to be a bit frustrating to do. I’ve finished them now, but it got me thinking about doing bent laminated back slats for my next one. Maybe a cross between a Hal Taylor and Charles Brock? Anyway, I’ve started on the 3/8” tenons for the top and they are very easy to do compared to the 1/2” tenons. I’ve committed myself to finishing the back slats, and do nothing e
  6. I agree, the RO90 would be super handy. I’m looking at getting one in the next few weeks. What pads did you use?
  7. After all four legs were fitted, I did as much preliminary sculpting with the bandsaw as I could then glued them up. At this point, I had already made and fitted two arms (pre glue up). They were a nice fit and had quite a bit of sculpting already competed. After the glue up I went to fit the arms back on, and this happened. Somehow during the glue up I pulled one of the rear legs slightly out of it’s original alignment, so the arms no longer fit. I came up with a few different ways of fixing the issue, including making a wedge and planing some material away. But I knew whatever I did I w
  8. I started sculpting the chair using the holey galahad fine wheel, I found this to be a bit slow so I purchased the course wheel. This worked really well and was quite enjoyable to do. The 1/2” holes for the back slats were drilled. The rotex sanding helped ALOT. It removed the grinding marks from the grinder very well. It’s starting to look like a chair! As you can see under the rocker, at this stage I already started roughing out the back slats. I found that did this quite a bit, jumping from one part of the build to the
  9. Next up was cutting out the front and rear leg blanks. I do recommend having a third front leg as a test piece to dial in the fit, I found this really useful. Rear leg blanks after using the template on the router table. The joinery was cut in all four legs and dry assembled.
  10. G’day WTO, I thought I’d post a project journal of my Maloof rocker that I started building a while ago. I initially posted a thread in the guild area with some questions on the build, and somehow that turned into a journal. I received some great advice but thought others might benefit from seeing my build so far, including my stuff ups and what I’ll do next time. I’m by no means an expert, I’m just a hobby woodworker who took the plunge building one of my bucket lists projects. I’ll have to post my work so far over a few posts as I have shocking internet coverage in my area, so I w
  11. Thanks Kev, I’m going to hold off on the rockers for a bit longer. I do agree though, it might look out of proportion with thinner rockers. I’ve been working on the back slats. Man they are a lot of work! The shaping was quite easy but the fitting of the tenons into the chair has been very tedious and by far the most frustrating part of the build. I got all but one fitted but they are rough and will require a lot of hand work with scrapers and sanding. I didn’t really help myself when I cut them out on the bandsaw, some of the curves that go into the tenons aren’t even so I’ve been
  12. Ok team, I need to admit that I still haven’t completed the rocker. To my defence, we had a baby and she took up all of my spare time. I’ve done a few small projects since but I’m thinking of working on the rocker again. I was looking at the rocker laminates that I cut up a while back. I really made a mess of it and need to run some of them through the drum sander. It’s going to leave me with a set of rockers that will be around 3/4”. Do you think this is too thin? This is including two strips of a contrasting wood. I could add a third species to get it up to the 1” thickness. What’s you
  13. I line the inside of my boxes with pig skin suede. I cover the entire underside of the suede with a thin but even coat of glue, and do the same with whatever I’m attaching it to (ply/mdf). I allow the glue to dry then I place a tea towel over the suede and iron it onto the ply/mdf. The heat melts the glue and gives a nice flat finish. I tried using solid wood as a substrate once, but as you can imagine the heat from the iron warped the timber.
  14. Thanks for the replies. I might do one or two sample pieces and take it from there, I’ll let you know how I go. cheers
  15. Hey, I’m going to join in on the river table craze and build a river coffee table or two. Question is, instead of cutting the board/slab in half and building a form, pouring the resin etc, could I just rout out a channel and pour the epoxy in? This will enable me to not only save on epoxy, but I’ll be able to create my own curves on a template, then use a bearing guide on my router. I’m struggling to see any negatives to this approach. I’m using pearl x pigments (blue) with a casting resin. The timber will be able 1 1/2” to 1 3”4” (undecided) Has anyone done this? And if