AndyG

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AndyG last won the day on September 24 2018

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About AndyG

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  • Woodworking Interests
    box making, furniture making

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  1. Forgot to come back and thank you for the replies. I ended up picking up the 52” Incra LS fence and will set it all up this week. I don’t see myself ripping wide widths with the table saw, in fact I rarely do anything wider than around 20” as I use my track saw. I do however use the fence as a reference for crosscutting legs, aprons etc so hopefully when I get it all setup it’ll allow me just enough capacity for that purpose. Cheers
  2. Hi all, Got an opportunity to buy a used 52” Incra LS TS positioner. Where I’m planning to put it I have at least 2600mm or around 102” . The issue is, the right hand side of the saw will be against, or around 200mm/8” from the wall. Just wondering if anyone with the same system could kindly please measure what the max rip capacity would be if the positioner extended past the rails by 8”? I plan on having the rails installed so they’re as flush with the left side of the saw (Jet Xacta cabinet saw) as possible. I hope this makes sense. Regards, Andy
  3. Great work it looks beautiful! I’d be interested to know if you changed any of the processes second time around? And I agree 100% re the back slats, they’re a lot of work. Cheers
  4. Thanks for the reply Bmac. It certainly makes sense, and I had planned to finish to 400 also. So you reckon granat is the way to go with the RO90? And do you just use the interface pad? I’m also interested to know what finish you use? I was initially going to make up the maloof finish, but recently I’m thinking Osmo polyx. As for the back slats, I reckon second time around I’ll be more efficient. This goes for the whole rocker build. I found even after relieving the back and front of the 1/2” tenons, there still wasn’t enough movement to get the 3/8” tenons to fit in the headrest. I ended up moving material around the sides as well and eventually was able to fit the top tenons in. Next up I’ll finish sculpting the back slats. Once they’re sorted, it’s time to start refining the chair with rasps, scrapers and of course sanding.
  5. So this is where I’m up to. I’ve been slowly working on the back slats for a while now, been doing a bit of work on them then changing to something else. I’ll be honest, they are ALOT of work, and I’m finding the 1/2” round tenons to be a bit frustrating to do. I’ve finished them now, but it got me thinking about doing bent laminated back slats for my next one. Maybe a cross between a Hal Taylor and Charles Brock? Anyway, I’ve started on the 3/8” tenons for the top and they are very easy to do compared to the 1/2” tenons. I’ve committed myself to finishing the back slats, and do nothing else! On the topic of the RO90, which Festool abrasives did you use? Eg rubin, brilliant etc. And besides the interface pads, what other must have accessories should I get? I’ve seen others buff their chairs before applying finish. What’s the go with this, is it just to enhance the sheen? Cheers
  6. I agree, the RO90 would be super handy. I’m looking at getting one in the next few weeks. What pads did you use?
  7. After all four legs were fitted, I did as much preliminary sculpting with the bandsaw as I could then glued them up. At this point, I had already made and fitted two arms (pre glue up). They were a nice fit and had quite a bit of sculpting already competed. After the glue up I went to fit the arms back on, and this happened. Somehow during the glue up I pulled one of the rear legs slightly out of it’s original alignment, so the arms no longer fit. I came up with a few different ways of fixing the issue, including making a wedge and planing some material away. But I knew whatever I did I wouldn’t be completely happy with, so I started over again and made new arms. The second set of arms blanks. At least I had a bit of practice.... the second set of arms turned out better than the first set, so I guess it was a blessing in disguise. The arms glued up. I guess I could have sculpted more material before I glued up, but I wanted to see how they looked in proportion to the rest of the chair. I was aiming for thinner looking arms, and I think I got the look I was after. Still a bit of rasp and scraper work to do, but I’m on my way. Concurrently I was doing other work on the chair like removing excess material from around the legs, finessing the front curves etc. I also added the Festool RAS 115 to my arsenal of sanders. I must say, I absolutely love it. The galahad wheels are excellent, but they throw around quite a bit of dust. The RAS collects around 70%, with the remainder just falling at my feet where I’m working.
  8. I started sculpting the chair using the holey galahad fine wheel, I found this to be a bit slow so I purchased the course wheel. This worked really well and was quite enjoyable to do. The 1/2” holes for the back slats were drilled. The rotex sanding helped ALOT. It removed the grinding marks from the grinder very well. It’s starting to look like a chair! As you can see under the rocker, at this stage I already started roughing out the back slats. I found that did this quite a bit, jumping from one part of the build to the other.
  9. Next up was cutting out the front and rear leg blanks. I do recommend having a third front leg as a test piece to dial in the fit, I found this really useful. Rear leg blanks after using the template on the router table. The joinery was cut in all four legs and dry assembled.
  10. G’day WTO, I thought I’d post a project journal of my Maloof rocker that I started building a while ago. I initially posted a thread in the guild area with some questions on the build, and somehow that turned into a journal. I received some great advice but thought others might benefit from seeing my build so far, including my stuff ups and what I’ll do next time. I’m by no means an expert, I’m just a hobby woodworker who took the plunge building one of my bucket lists projects. I’ll have to post my work so far over a few posts as I have shocking internet coverage in my area, so I won’t push my luck. First of all the rocker was intended to be completed before the arrival of our first child, I was cutting it fine as it was and didn’t get close to finishing it. As you can imagine, once she was born, workshop time was somewhat limited, so progress certainly slowed down. So here it goes. I decided on US (I’m an Aussie), partly because it seems to be the traditional wood choice for rockers, but I also really like it. I purchased more than I needed so I can be picky with grain selection, which I think makes a significant difference. I spent an embarrassingly long time deciding on the pieces for the seat. I ended up deciding on this layout. Then the 3 degree bevels, I used my jointer for this. I used my domino to join the boards also, this makes it so much easier to glue up. Pre sculpting was done on he bandsaw. Upon reflection, I was a bit conservative with this. Next time, and there will definitely be a next time because I’m having a blast building this, I’ll remove more material. It’s not a big issue, but it would certainly help. I cut the joinery on all four corners then glued up the seat. I was pretty excited at this stage! Front leg joinery. More to come.....
  11. Thanks Kev, I’m going to hold off on the rockers for a bit longer. I do agree though, it might look out of proportion with thinner rockers. I’ve been working on the back slats. Man they are a lot of work! The shaping was quite easy but the fitting of the tenons into the chair has been very tedious and by far the most frustrating part of the build. I got all but one fitted but they are rough and will require a lot of hand work with scrapers and sanding. I didn’t really help myself when I cut them out on the bandsaw, some of the curves that go into the tenons aren’t even so I’ve been finessing with rasps but it looks like a lot of work to get them all to look the same. I think the next rocker I build I’ll use laminated slats. I’m also looking at getting a Festool RO90 to help sand the chair. I reckon the delta pad will come in handy on the slats, and the round pad for tighter areas. I got a RO150 and I’m very impressed, I sanded the seat after sculpting with very good results. I might also post this thread in the main area of the forum, there might be others who can learn from my stuff ups! Cheers
  12. Ok team, I need to admit that I still haven’t completed the rocker. To my defence, we had a baby and she took up all of my spare time. I’ve done a few small projects since but I’m thinking of working on the rocker again. I was looking at the rocker laminates that I cut up a while back. I really made a mess of it and need to run some of them through the drum sander. It’s going to leave me with a set of rockers that will be around 3/4”. Do you think this is too thin? This is including two strips of a contrasting wood. I could add a third species to get it up to the 1” thickness. What’s your thoughts? And is it just me, but do people obsess on the detail of their rocker? I can’t seem to make much progress as I obsess over the smallest detail. Probably why it’s taking me so long! cheers
  13. I line the inside of my boxes with pig skin suede. I cover the entire underside of the suede with a thin but even coat of glue, and do the same with whatever I’m attaching it to (ply/mdf). I allow the glue to dry then I place a tea towel over the suede and iron it onto the ply/mdf. The heat melts the glue and gives a nice flat finish. I tried using solid wood as a substrate once, but as you can imagine the heat from the iron warped the timber.
  14. Thanks for the replies. I might do one or two sample pieces and take it from there, I’ll let you know how I go. cheers
  15. Hey, I’m going to join in on the river table craze and build a river coffee table or two. Question is, instead of cutting the board/slab in half and building a form, pouring the resin etc, could I just rout out a channel and pour the epoxy in? This will enable me to not only save on epoxy, but I’ll be able to create my own curves on a template, then use a bearing guide on my router. I’m struggling to see any negatives to this approach. I’m using pearl x pigments (blue) with a casting resin. The timber will be able 1 1/2” to 1 3”4” (undecided) Has anyone done this? And if so, how deep did you rout? cheers