TerryMcK

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About TerryMcK

  • Rank
    Master Poster
  • Birthday 07/26/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ellesmere Pk, England, UK
  • Woodworking Interests
    Stringed instrument making
    Wind instruments
    Cabinet making
    Furniture design and manufacture
    Power tools
    Hand tools
    Shop design and layout
    Gate, Portcullis and Drawbridge design and manufacture a speciality - especially for anybody living in a castle.

    Also a licensed radio ham G8YPH since 1980 and just getting back into operating. Have a listen around on HF, VHF or UHF as I have gear for all bands.

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  1. TerryMcK

    Finish on cedar outdoors

    No Ken.
  2. TerryMcK

    Finish on cedar outdoors

    You would be wasting your time there Ronn as shellac is really meant for internal use. I use a Canadian finish for outdoor projects called "Sansin exterior weather seal". It is water bourne and needs recoating every 5 years on vertical faces and every year or two on horizontal faces. It really is the best stuff I have found for any exterior project. The Canucks know a thing or two about extremes of weather and the development of this product seems to have come from years of research at all extremes. If you want the cedar to gray down then leave it completely free from finish. Uncoated cedar (talking Western Red here) looks great when it has just been rained upon as it goes a deep brown that is very pleasant. Then when the water evaporates it goes back to gray. It has natural chemicals in it that prevent rot.
  3. TerryMcK

    Houston shop tour

    Nice space. I wish I could keep my shop that dust free.
  4. TerryMcK

    Guitar repair

    I would leave it and call it "Road Worn" a very popular finish these days that people are prepared to pay a hefty premium for. Fender, one of many manufacturers, do road worn ranges (bike chains, screwdrivers, car keys and sandpaper all used on perfectly good brand new instruments) and charge you an arm and a leg for the privilege of owning an exact replica of your favorite artists guitar who wore it out thru playing! You will make it far worse by trying to fix it with CA glue. It probably was finished with acrylic by the state of the cracking. More like a plastic finish rather than nitro cellulose that micro-crazes (some people like that) when it gets old. The impact damage will not have done any damage to the structure of the instrument as it fell on one of the strongest points.
  5. TerryMcK

    Guitar repair

    It looks like impact damage due to being dropped and the damage is probably limited to the finish. Is it solid bodied or hollow?
  6. TerryMcK

    The French Cleat

    There's nothing wrong with that implementation of a French cleat. It would be fine if you were in a state of flux constantly moving things around (like a store display for instance). For a shop? I'm not so sure... Once you have settled on a particular layout I find you leave it and get on with some woodwork . In practice I've found that a single horizontal line of cleats 4 feet from the ground and a single line at 6 feet from the ground are all I've ever needed.
  7. TerryMcK

    Sanding Procedures

    I should have said, the higher the grit the slower I set the rotational speed of the ROS.
  8. TerryMcK

    Sanding Procedures

    80>120>180 and maybe 240 (we can no longer get 220 over in the UK) in a 5" ROS. I do change the speed of the ROS when getting higher up the grit range. Also the dust extract has an air bleed on it. This can be opened to reduce the vacuum and this prevents the ROS pad from pulling down too tightly. @lewisc that may be the cause of your swirl marks - rotational speed and suction too high.
  9. TerryMcK

    Thicknesser on a budget

    The 735 is not available in the UK and hasn't been for years. Unfortunately Dewalt only sell the 733 now over here in the UK.
  10. TerryMcK

    Gaming Table

    Nice looking shop you have there Ken. The lawn mower will come in useful for flattening that bench top
  11. TerryMcK

    Wedding sign finish

    Get them to sign in pencil just onto bare wood. Then you can seal it.
  12. Some people come in and make a couple of posts and are never seen again.
  13. TerryMcK

    Old Blade Disposal

    I take mine to the local recycling centre and put it in with the scrap metal.
  14. TerryMcK

    Starting out - 8" or 10" brace

    I have both and it is not so much getting the brace, which is easy, but getting the bits. You can buy bits new with a limited range of diameters (with screw lead-ins) but vintage ones, with tapered square drives in good condition are difficult to obtain. Bent, chipped or worn out ones are the only ones I can find so far. Miller Falls or original Stanley's are a good buy but make sure you see them or get as much information about them before you buy. Some are missing hard to obtain springs in the chuck as they can fly out when you loosen them. You may get lucky and find a peach along with a set of good bits. Egg beaters are also good to have especially those with a decent gear ratio. Stanley still make a crap one (that unfortunately I have) that has a poor ratio and is good for regular round bits up to 3/16" (it has a 3 jaw chuck) but no good beyond that. I only use it now for drilling tiny pilot holes for #2 screws.
  15. TerryMcK

    How long to leave joints before gluing.

    You could try using epoxy as it cures due to chemical reaction rather than evaporation as PVA glues do. Also glues like Titebond do have temperature limits for curing. Their website gives the technical details and I think it is a minimum of 50 degrees for Titebond Original and 45 degrees for Titebond III. West Systems 205 quick hardener cures down to 41 Fahrenheit. So if you can get the air temperature in the shop up to this it might work for you. I sometimes have put the 105 can into a bowl of warm water to make it less viscous when the temperature has been low.