• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,398 Excellent

About TerryMcK

  • Rank
    Master Poster
  • Birthday 07/26/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Ellesmere Pk, England, UK
  • Woodworking Interests
    Stringed instrument making
    Wind instruments
    Cabinet making
    Furniture design and manufacture
    Power tools
    Hand tools
    Shop design and layout
    Gate, Portcullis and Drawbridge design and manufacture a speciality - especially for anybody living in a castle.

    Also a licensed radio ham G8YPH since 1980 and just getting back into operating. Have a listen around on HF, VHF or UHF as I have gear for all bands.

Recent Profile Visitors

5,453 profile views
  1. ECE planes... worth picking up?

    ECE planes normally have an excellent reputation if you can get by the German style handles on the front. I've tried a few out and coming from the conventional metal plane school (Stanley, LN and Veritas) I was pleasantly surprised how nice the high handle on the front works. Like most high end planes they don't really require much tuning other than honing and work straight out of the box with very good results. They are normally quite expensive when bought new especially the Primus ones shown in your pictures.
  2. Pure Lee Valley Tung Oil waxy finish

    This is pretty common with real/unpolymerized tung oil. It takes forever to cure and walnut can have really open pores. The tung oil weeps out of the pores long after the oil on the surface has cured. It sits on the surface partially cured and sticky, until it cures. The solution is to 1) babysit your piece and wipe off the oil 2) keep building more coats, sanding (220 or 320) in between. Eventually you build enough finish that the pores are sealed and the surface oil will cure. 3) thin the oil with mineral spirits. The won't speed curing (contrary to popular belief) but it will force you to use thinner coats, which do cure faster or 4) switch to a polymerized tung oil. This is a tung oil that had been heat treated, so it cures faster or 5) just use mineral oil, since he is making serving boards. Mineral oil is safe for food and easy to apply. Because it doesn't cure, it doesn't weep like tung oil (the weeping is due to heat and expansion that result from curing)
  3. Endless oak

    Yes they used to be good years ago. I picked up a recent one (with a plastic red handle) in a mixed bag of a deceased woodworkers chisels and it is a 1" that had never been used. I honed it and it fractured on first go. I ground it back a bit and rehoned (maybe the edge was brittle) but no it was still brittle. It is stuck in a drawer now and might end up as a paint can opener.
  4. Endless oak

    It is looking great now. It's a wide slab but are the blades maybe becoming worn causing excess friction and hence tripping the overload?
  5. Sketchup 2018

    Looks like the pro version is the only one available now. I don't really want to use the free version that is web browser only I have invested a lot of time creating models in Sketchup 2017 (and older) and don't fancy having to pay the exorbitant prices that Trimble are now charging. I am a one man hobby woodshop not some big corporation. Looks as though I will have to stay with Sketchup Make 2017 for now until they start restricting access to the model warehouse too.
  6. China Cabinet

    Looks like an interesting project but.... gray??
  7. Dewalt thickness planer

    It's taking root Dave
  8. If you can get an end on view of the profile it would be much better.
  9. Headphone Stand.

    Something you might like to consider that moves the piece to a different level is this. On the top, where the headphone band currently sits, cut a groove that the band will sit within. A good exercise is cutting it so the groove is also curved following the same profile as the current end-grain top. You can do that easily with a saw, chisels and, if you haven't got one, a shoulder plane to clean up. Everybody likes new tools, woodworking gets expensive, but a shoulder plane is a necessity for hand tool work. The headphones cannot be easily knocked off and you haven't done a straight copy of a commercial design. BTW I like yours much better than the birch plywood commercial one as you have used an interesting wood. Keep up the good work.
  10. Traditional Tools book

    Have a look for Essential Woodworking Hand Tools by Paul Sellers https://paulsellers.com/. It is a current book (released in 2016) expensive but worth it. He also does a couple of DVD's that go with it too. You can get it from various places. Not sure where you are in the world but have a look at this link for your nearest stockist. https://paulsellers.com/paul-sellers-books/essential-woodworking-hand-tools/
  11. Endless oak

    I missed this one Ross so catching up on whats happening. Nice to see a shot of you and Rick in the first post.
  12. Office Revamp

    As ever fantastic Kev
  13. Dining Table

    +1 on what Ross and Rick said. Loose tenons are usually a push fit rather than an interference fit.
  14. West Systems pump problem

    I've had many resin pumps that have failed but the resin was still ok. I notice it normally occurs when the outside temperature plummets and the temperature in the shop overnight goes to less than 8 Celsius (46 F). I'm fortunate that my shop is fully insulated but it can still get cold. The instructions state if the pump isn't being used for an amount of time then clean them out with their cleaning fluid then soap and water and let it dry. I have never bothered as the pumps are cheap enough to replace and I find that they fail about once a year.
  15. Milling Practice

    The thing about general woodworking is that you don't have to work to engineering tolerances. As Ross says mill the boards that you are going to do joinery to in the same session and you will be good to go. For example if making a table frame mill all four legs in one go, then mill all the aprons in one go. The respective parts will all be a consistent thickness relative to each other. They might be a few thou over or under the thickness desired but who cares - certainly not the customer as I've never seen anybody measure my work with a micrometer. and say "this apron isn't exactly 3/4" thick!" If you hit the boards with a smoothing plane after machine milling to remove milling marks you loose a few thou anyway. Use relative dimensioning when matching parts up rather than depend upon absolute dimensions from a drawing and you end up fitting parts to suit. Think of cutting a flush fitting drawer front to fit into an aperture. Cut it slighlty oversize and then mark from the aperture directly onto the drawer front using a marking knife. You will end up with a front suitably cut to fit into the aperture with no measuring done.