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About TerryMcK

  • Rank
    Master Poster
  • Birthday 07/26/1962

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Ellesmere Pk, England, UK
  • Woodworking Interests
    Stringed instrument making
    Wind instruments
    Cabinet making
    Furniture design and manufacture
    Power tools
    Hand tools
    Shop design and layout
    Gate, Portcullis and Drawbridge design and manufacture a speciality - especially for anybody living in a castle.

    Also a licensed radio ham G8YPH since 1980 and just getting back into operating. Have a listen around on HF, VHF or UHF as I have gear for all bands.

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  1. TerryMcK

    The French Cleat

    There's nothing wrong with that implementation of a French cleat. It would be fine if you were in a state of flux constantly moving things around (like a store display for instance). For a shop? I'm not so sure... Once you have settled on a particular layout I find you leave it and get on with some woodwork . In practice I've found that a single horizontal line of cleats 4 feet from the ground and a single line at 6 feet from the ground are all I've ever needed.
  2. TerryMcK

    Sanding Procedures

    I should have said, the higher the grit the slower I set the rotational speed of the ROS.
  3. TerryMcK

    Sanding Procedures

    80>120>180 and maybe 240 (we can no longer get 220 over in the UK) in a 5" ROS. I do change the speed of the ROS when getting higher up the grit range. Also the dust extract has an air bleed on it. This can be opened to reduce the vacuum and this prevents the ROS pad from pulling down too tightly. @lewisc that may be the cause of your swirl marks - rotational speed and suction too high.
  4. TerryMcK

    Thicknesser on a budget

    The 735 is not available in the UK and hasn't been for years. Unfortunately Dewalt only sell the 733 now over here in the UK.
  5. TerryMcK

    Gaming Table

    Nice looking shop you have there Ken. The lawn mower will come in useful for flattening that bench top
  6. TerryMcK

    Wedding sign finish

    Get them to sign in pencil just onto bare wood. Then you can seal it.
  7. Some people come in and make a couple of posts and are never seen again.
  8. TerryMcK

    Old Blade Disposal

    I take mine to the local recycling centre and put it in with the scrap metal.
  9. TerryMcK

    Starting out - 8" or 10" brace

    I have both and it is not so much getting the brace, which is easy, but getting the bits. You can buy bits new with a limited range of diameters (with screw lead-ins) but vintage ones, with tapered square drives in good condition are difficult to obtain. Bent, chipped or worn out ones are the only ones I can find so far. Miller Falls or original Stanley's are a good buy but make sure you see them or get as much information about them before you buy. Some are missing hard to obtain springs in the chuck as they can fly out when you loosen them. You may get lucky and find a peach along with a set of good bits. Egg beaters are also good to have especially those with a decent gear ratio. Stanley still make a crap one (that unfortunately I have) that has a poor ratio and is good for regular round bits up to 3/16" (it has a 3 jaw chuck) but no good beyond that. I only use it now for drilling tiny pilot holes for #2 screws.
  10. TerryMcK

    How long to leave joints before gluing.

    You could try using epoxy as it cures due to chemical reaction rather than evaporation as PVA glues do. Also glues like Titebond do have temperature limits for curing. Their website gives the technical details and I think it is a minimum of 50 degrees for Titebond Original and 45 degrees for Titebond III. West Systems 205 quick hardener cures down to 41 Fahrenheit. So if you can get the air temperature in the shop up to this it might work for you. I sometimes have put the 105 can into a bowl of warm water to make it less viscous when the temperature has been low.
  11. TerryMcK

    Working Sapele ... Thoughts?

    I use a lot of sapele and it is a wonderful wood. Just beware that it can have changes of grain direction in a board (called interlocking) so when you think it is ok to plane you hit a riser that comes from the other direction and get localised tear out. It isn't all like that but if you do encounter it you can use a high angle plane or a scraper plane and you will get fantastic results.
  12. TerryMcK

    Wood slab species and pricing

    They look very unstable pieces too. I wouldn't get your hopes up too high nor expect much money for them. They are cross cut slabs across the trunk. No amount of filling with epoxy will give any long term stabilisation. Somebody may be able to use them for small turned parts. Good for the fire I'm afraid.
  13. TerryMcK

    Shop Aprons ?

    I too have the LN apron - it’s definitely a good one. Honestly, like wearing a seat belt in a car I don’t feel dressed in the shop without an apron on.
  14. TerryMcK

    Door Hinges

    A pair of 4” standard hinges that you can get from B&Q will suffice. In metric that is 100mm
  15. There are some specialist tools required but of course general conventional woodworking tools are required. Here are a few but it is by no means an extensive list. Conventional tools A decent bench - it doesn't have to be massive but a quite modest one will suffice Clamps - you cannot survive without clamps Vise - there are some specialist pattern makers vices that are ideal for guitar making but a normal woodworking vise will suffice Bench planes - a #4, #5 and #7 are useful Block plane - if you have a low angle block plane is will get a lot of use Shoulder plane - use this tool with its nose removed when planing the back of a head-stock to thickness Chisels - I prefer bevel edged chisels and a range from 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" and the one I use the most 1" Gouges - not essential but useful when carving neck volutes and truss-rod access in head-stocks Knives - a marking knife is indispensable as are X-acto knifes or scalpels. Cabinet scrapers - an incredibly useful tool and is used a lot in lutherie. There are several types and the swan necked one is very useful on the back of necks. Don't forget a burnisher to apply a hook. Rasps - I like the Auriou and Liogier hand-stitched rasps - expensive but will last a lifetime Files - engineering files are useful Coping saw - great for cutting curved edges in thin materials Straight edges and rules - a 24" straight edge is an essential piece of equipment - a selection of steel engineering rules are prerequisites for accurate measurement Square and sliding bevel - woodworking or engineering squares, a combination square and a sliding bevel are great tools to have Sharpening stones and honing guides - whatever type you use make sure you keep all tool edges sharp Selection of good screwdrivers Set of nut spinners or 1/4" square drive socket set Machine Tools A workshop of general woodworking machinery is not essential but helps if you convert rough sawn lumber into square edged boards. Tablesaw Planer/Thicknesser Jointer Drill press Router - both handheld and in a table Oscillating spindle sander Disk sander Drum sander - not essential but good to have - wish I had one! and one of the most used tools - a bandsaw for cutting all those curves Other hand held power tools Battery drill and drill bits (bradpoints, long series drills and regular twist drills) Random orbit sander Specialist Tools Gents saw also known as a fret slot cutting saw (not a fret saw bizarrely) - used to cut fret slots Dial gauge or digital calipers - used to measure thicknesses of flat stock Hygrometer - used to keep tab on the humidity levels in the workshop Circle cutting tools - consists of a blade that rotates in a compass - used to cut the trench for rosette inlaying Bending iron - a solid metal former heated internally by an electrical element. Used to bend guitar or violin sides Fretting hammer or fret press - used to press frets into their slots Fret snippers - used to cut off excess metal from the ends of the fret once installed Fret stone - a coarse and fine sided sharpening tool used to dress frets Fretting files - there are a few used to clean up frets; a triangular miniature file, a curved file and also a set of files used to cut nut slots Reamer - several tapered hand reamers used to make taper holes in guitar bridge for bridge pins and in violin family instruments for tapered tuning pegs. Fret slot mitre box - not strictly used for cutting mitres but for accurately guiding the saw when cutting fret slots in a finger board Soldering iron Piercing saw or jewellers saw - used to cut mother of pearl Diamond files - used to clean up the edges of mother of pearl Digital multimeter - used to test your wiring - you may already have one of these in your household tools. Bridge clamp - used to clamp a bridge in place through the soundhole. These can be expensive and have a deep throat but are fairly shallow in height Shop amplifier - any old guitar amp will do. I use a solid state cheapo amp Electronic tuner - musical instrument tuners are very cheap these days - you can even use an app on your smarphone Tools you can make in the shop Wooden cam clamp - many plans are available on the internet Calipers - bought lutherie calipers can be expensive so you can actually make your own Sanding sticks - a small piece of wood with an abrasive glued on - make several with different grits Tools you don't need A Festool Domino - I have never seen one used in luthiery but if you can demonstrate one being used them post below As you see there are many tools you probably already have. If you want to get into luthiery whether repairing a buddies guitar or making full blown instruments you only need a few more specialist tools that you can buy as and when you need them.