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Everything posted by TerryMcK

  1. I've got a lunchbox planer/thicknesser that I've had for about 3 years now. In that time I hadn't changed the blades but hadn't realised just how blunt they had become. I didn't change them sooner as I thought I needed special alignment tools/jigs etc. Stock got increasingly slower and slower going through it. Today I was milling a couple of 10" wide boards of oak and when the motor started slowing down I thought change the blades. My planer has a couple of blades held in by a blade holder each with 6 Allen socket head screws. I didn't even have to break out the manual. The blades are double edges and have registration holes in them that sit on pins in the rotor shaft. That means they are perfectly aligned so no complicated setting jigs or dial test indicators. It took me five minutes to do both blades 10 mins in all! Now the planer cuts like a new one and it didn't take very long to do. So the moral of the tale is don't put up with dull blunt blades change them now your work will get quicker.
  2. Hi Trevor, I was quite shocked when I found out the price of the bits + import duty before any timber had been bought so no I'm not building along but following the videos for any tips. Interested to see your latest post of correcting the off-squareness in the slot. Terry
  3. Hi Chris, Make each groove 1/4" deep and then make the panel about 1/16" to 1/8" smaller dependant upon your climate. The more humid the bigger the clearance. If using plywood the panel won't expand much but the timber rails will vary across the grain according to season. Hope this helps Terry
  4. Hi Chopcat, Arm-R-Seal is also my favourite finish and I bought a few cans before GF stopped stocking it in the UK. I know you stated that water based finishes were not what you wanted, however I have found another finish that GF do and am really pleased with it. Maybe other EU based woodworkers would like to know about it in light of the ban on Arm-R-Seal. It's called Outdoor 450 from GF and is water based, you can wipe it on, spray it on, foam brush it etc. It dries within an hour (so not many problems with dust nibs) ready for sanding/recoating and up to now the semi-gloss I'm using seems to be just as durable as Arm-R-Seal and looks great with a slight yellow tint. It goes on over shellac too with no problems but best of all there is absolutely no odour - great for inside your boxes and drawers. I have left it to cure for a week and then given it a polish with 0000 wire wool or 2000 grit and it comes up really well. I'm becoming a convert as I needed something that was water-resistant for a bathroom wash stand/vanity and GF Europe suggested it so out of curiousity I have tried it on non bathroom projects too with great results. (I don't work for GF by the way) I haven't tried the gloss yet so can't comment on that. Hope this helps Terry
  5. Anybody got any good tips for using this tool from Veritas? I have just bought one along with a Veritas Japanese style pull dovetail saw. I have a whole load of blind dovetails to cut as I'm doing the Guild chest of drawers and have decided to go down the hand tools route for cutting the dovetails on the drawers. I've had a look at the instructions and they seem pretty good but it does say when you cut blind dovetails the teflon guides will mar due to the angle that you have to present the saw to the pin board. I want to do hand dovetails rather than dowelled half rabbets or machine cut dovetails just as a challenge. You never know I may revert back to machine cut ones if I get bored or frustated. Terry
  6. Jus make sure when you fire it up to test it you do it outside. The store owner won't appreciate wood chips all over the show.
  7. Here's mine finished June 2011 (I'm catching up on the builds) made from French oak and finished with Arm-A-Seal
  8. TerryMcK


    From the album: TerryMck's Furniture

    This is the front view of the Shaker end table I built June 2011. It is made from French Oak throughout with hand cut dovetail joints in the drawer. I finished it with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal and I'm really happy with the results. I'm catching up on the Guild builds and this is the first one. Terry

    © T McKnight 2011

  9. TerryMcK


    From the album: TerryMck's Furniture

    This is the top view of the Shaker end table I built June 2011. It is made from French Oak throughout with hand cut dovetail joints in the drawer. I finished it with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal and I'm really happy with the results. The photo is unforgiving in that it shows the three boards plainly. To the eye you don't actually see much variation. It must be the flash that does it. Terry

    © T McKnight 2011

  10. TerryMcK

    f stile mandolin

    It's a beauty and a work of art. I particularly like all of the quilted and curly maple. You must be very proud.
  11. Eric, it's looking great so far. I wish my shop was organized a little better. Terry
  12. Thanks for all the responses. I've ordered some nitrile ones and they should arrive at the shop tomorrow.
  13. Hi guys and girls, I was using General Finishes Arm-R-Seal and latex gloves last night on a project I'm finishing. The gloves were some I found on my shelves that I bought a while ago and I'm not sure about their origin suffice to say they are labelled "made from latex ideal for painting and other jobs around the home". I was half way through applying finish and I found that that the glove holding my applicator pad was disintegrating. I stopped and changed gloves and continued. Then I noticed that the new gloves seemed to be blistering. I normally use "surgical" gloves of unknown brand and material but have run out hence using the latex ones. The finish on the project was not affected fortunately. What brand or type of gloves do you people use? Terry
  14. Hi Guys, I've been listening to all your old WTOR podcasts (there are a lot of them and I'm only 1/5 of the way through), looking at websites, videos, Youtube, reading books etc etc to bring myself up to date with the hobby. I'm new to cabinet making but have been working with wood in other areas making stringed instruments for a number of years. As I'm based in England in the UK I'm not familiar with Norm Abrams show New Yankee Workshop as we never got it over here. I've been looking a few Youtube's of the show and been avidly picking up tips from Norm. I'm amazed what he can do in such a small amount of time. However I'm also staggered by the amount of usage that air bradnailer of his gets. What I'm eluding to is what do you guys think of bradnailing rather than clamping? Do you advocate the use of the bradnailer? How do you get rid of the swiss cheese of holes left behind by the brad holes in the project (assuming you use one)? Keep up the good work Terry
  15. I also joined as I thought, still do, the freesite was a great source of information. Then I wanted to see what I was missing in the Guild site. Wow I'm really glad I joined and agree totally with Ratman.
  16. Steve, If you have never made a musical instrument before then I suggest making an electric guitar. Acoustic guitars DO require some specialised equipment such as a heated bending iron to bend the sides. Electrics on the other hand can be made quite easily by equipment found in a hobby shop. The most important tool would be a router (although not necessary if you are good with chisels). A bolt on neck would be the best way to go initially. Once you have built your first one consider building a glued in (or set) neck. As for wood there are several different paths. If you want to make a body out of an Ikea counter top, a cigar box or an old oak door then you can. It's all up to you and you are free to experiment. Just make sure the neck is made from something stable. However going down the more traditional route, for a Fender or Ibanez type guitar you could use ash or alder for the body and a stable wood such as maple for the neck. For a Gibson or PRS type guitar use mahoghany for the body and neck. Les Pauls use a maple cap on the body that can either be decorative or painted if you want. Although the world is your oyster as far as lumber goes there are certain combinations, as described, that have stood the test of time. Project Guitar is a great source of inspiration, advice and tips for newbies. Melvyn Hiscock's book on Make your Own Electric Guitar is a fantastic way of reading up before you make anything. Stewmac are a good source of plans and kits. Their acoustic guitar kits are great quality and you do have to make most things from scratch with them. Beware though that once you have made one it really is addictive. You will be planning your next one before you have finished the first and before you know it you will have built several. The bug will have truly bitten.... Hope this helps Terry
  17. I agree with all the other guys. I joined early January and have yet to start any of the guild projects but have downloaded and watched most of the videos. It is real good value for money and now I have a few of my own projects (nearly) out of the way I intend starting with the shaker table first. I already have a commission for a chest of drawers and intend using the guild plans to build that one next. Terry
  18. Just a note to say hello from over the pond. I'm an amateur luthier and furniture maker. I've been watching the Wood Whisperer for a couple of years now and find it very informative. I use Autocad to design and have recently been turned onto Sketchup. Current musical projects: Electric baritone guitar using a bookmatched pacific blackwood top and African mahogany back. Neck made from sapele/rock maple laminate. Schaller hardware and Seymour Duncan pickups Electric seven sting guitar using bookmatched embuia top and mahogany neck with pacific blackwood fretboard Electric cittern 10 strings (5 courses) using bookmatched rippled sycamore top and cedrela back. Mahogany neck with ebony fret board. For those of you who know what an acoustic cittern looks like this one is the same shape but thinner (and slightly heavier). 5 string electric bass probably ash bodied (not decided yet) 6 string electric bass - material not decided yet. Current funiture projects: Vanity table (dressing table in UK speak) for my wife. Material to be decided as is the design. Any pointers from forum members to sketchup designs that I could use would be appreciated. Best wishes Terry