cts1085

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    http://lumberjocks.com/tomfoolery

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    Near Orlando, Florida
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hybrid (Handtool/Power) furniture, cabinets. Also woodturning.

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  1. In addition to plastic curtains I have been around those that use screening material as well (think screened in porch) - the screening allows for some air movement but the larger bits are better contained to a smaller area.
  2. I will concur with Todd, I have the 2hp 17" grizzly and can resaw 12" hard maple with no problems.
  3. If it helps - with a router and tramel you can make your own longworth chuck out of plywood, some bolts and a small face plate. If you google you can download free plans to make it - I would start with it and then move to other chucks as needed by your projects.
  4. When ripping long boards on a table saw there is another "trick" that I have learned. Let's say you want to end up with a 4.25" width - make your first rip at 4.5" - this will allow for a little movement, burning, etc. you can go real slow since you don't care about the burning. Then make a second pass at 4.25" - much easier. Also, when using a featherboard make sure the feather board is in front of the blade NOT beside it - if the feather is beside it things go wrong very fast. If you have access to a band saw (or even a jig saw) the initial rip done there and then cleaned up on the table saw works great. Hope this helps! -Tom
  5. Etienne, I am in Forida and we deal with humidity on a regular basis here - just let the clamps stay on longer (i.e. 24 hours or overnight) and you should be just fine. I did my glue-ups in smaller sections just to make sure i kept things aligned - dowels, biscuits, etc. really go a long way to help the glue-up process. Take your time and do dry runs on every step - it is always amazing to me what I can learn about my particular environment that is different from the videos but also interesting ways to accomplish the task. - sometimes a cheap PVC roller on a dowel can make all the difference! Take your time and have fun - I started with the groups but only have about 90% of the top completed - everyone works at their own pace. -Tom
  6. Timing is everything - My plan is to route the strip today - I will take your advise and give it a whirl... As well as extending the layout marks to the top/bottom of the strip so I know where to cut when the backing strip is glued on. Thank you all for your comments - this is a great build!
  7. For what it is worth - i was able to run the slabs through a Dewalt DW735 13" planner with no problems - just kept it to light cuts and it worked like a champ!
  8. Thanks - I missed those entries - this forum is getting to be a great repository!
  9. If I need to lower the bench height by 3 inches (I am only 5'7") what impact does/should that have on the Chop? Does the Chop get shorter as well?
  10. Sounds like some great ideas! - Maybe an in-line dovetail joint to match the joint on the front??? Sounds like I will have 4 opportunities to try different joints! Thank you all!
  11. I am trying to think ahead on the leg laminations (Great video Marc!) and I was wondering the following: I have a bunch of ~24" 8/4 cut-offs from the top laminations. Can I laminate these and overlap them to make the legs at ~32"? Something where the seams do not line-up of course. Thoughts?
  12. Just some feedback - I just completed my glue-up for the front slab - Tried biscuits and during the dry-fit there was too much movement. Used dowels (4 per joint about in the mid-point of the slab height) and it was rock solid. During the dry-fit alignment was off only about 1/32 off and this was more to the jig I used to drill the holes. With the dowels the glue-up went very smoothly. For the rear slab (more boards) i am going to revise my jig to try and get the accuracy better for the dowels (any suggestions?)
  13. What I have found when milling parts longer than my jointer is to place the material cup-side up. Once it starts to flatten in the middle then after each pass it flattens closer and closer to the edges. This is the process I have been using on the 96" long top boards. Maybe someone else has an idea?
  14. Marc, do you mean spade bits or auger bits? (Maybe an amazon part number reference?)