tauchen67

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Everything posted by tauchen67

  1. I was thinking of making jewelry box rather than a humidor and I was thinking of using mdf rather than solid wood for the box sides and veneer in both the inside and outside. My question is what I would you guys do to cover up the exposed edge when I split the box open? I have thought I could make iron on veneer for the edge but that is going to chip easily. Would you just glue on a narrow piece of hardwood?
  2. its new to me, im curious about it. It obviously no festool but i wonder if it is better than harbor freight?
  3. I am also in the LA area and have been looking for classes and it seems like Cerritos or the William Ng school are the options aside from when Woodcraft or the Rockler stores do demos.
  4. ok so I know this is the classic question of what should I buy, but I am going to try and give my thoughts and maybe you guys can help me to make sure I am going in the right direction. I think a bandsaw is the next tool I am going to get for my shop. I am thinking 14", I think with a 6" riser on it because I want to be able to resaw larger rough stock. I am debating on if i should buy a new such as the grizzley g0555lx (if there are other brands recommended in this price range please let me know). part of me thinks that buys a used BS would save me cash and perform just as well for me, but like buying a used car I am concerned. Im thinking a planer is next, because i have a router table so i can joint edges and it is possible to joint the face of a board on a planer. My question is, is it worth spending the money on a planer with with a spiral cutter? I guess ultimatly it is up to me if it is worth it, but I wanted to know your thoughts? I am leaning towards it mostly because the maintenance on a standard planer seems like it would eat up a lot of my shop time Kinda ditto on the jointer, spiral head? again thanks for the input.
  5. thanks for all the responses everyone, I feel a lot more confident going forward. not sure what im going to use for the frames and doors now, i thought i was more limited on options. ill post pics when it eventually gets done. Jhop, im assuming you mean to make the concrete counter top seperate and then place it on the cabinets rather than pour it in place on the cabinets. I was planning to create it in a seperate mold and then place it on the cabinets, going to put some sort of metal in it as well (thin gauge rebar, wire screen, etc) for reinforcement.
  6. Hey Everyone, I know I don't post much, but I wanted to see what you guys thought about a project I want to attempt. I have a covered patio that we use quite a bit in the summer time and I wanted to build a 10' bank of lower cabinets for storage and counter space for food etc. I was thinking of making the face frames and doors out of cedar since teak is very expensive. My question is what to make to carcass out of? This area does not get very wet, but it is outside and I do hose down the patio before a party. I was thinking that cabinet grade ply and using the adjustable feet rather than a pressure treated ladder base. I was going to try and make a concrete countertop, key word try. Any thoughts or experience in this area? Thanks Josh
  7. so i went and put some calipers on the veneer. I got .018 in or .48mm. I also talked to my Uncle and he said it is usually 1/42 to 1/50th of an inch when they order it. For the panel i do not do not have a bag. I have had descent results with mdf panels and lots and lots of clamps. i know a bag is best, but i have just been doing flat pieces and have been saving to get a pump and bag.
  8. That's a good idea. I like the idea of cutting on the TB because I can use the router bit to set the exact width. No access to a drum sander.
  9. So was given some scrap veneer from my uncle who has a production veneer shop. I have been playing with marquetry type stuff (chess board). This is the really thin veneer i think 1/64" i think he said. What i want to do is use some of this stuff on some frame and panel doors i am making. I am just going to do a book match on the 1/4" panel, but on the frame i want to do a 1/2" inlays strip all around the face of the frame. How do i cut a groove just shallow enough to get this veneer into? i have though of just taking my plunge router with a 1/2" straight bit, zero it out, then using the stop to get the exact depth of the material along with a fence i could cut it that way. it just seems to me that 1/64" is really tight tolerances. i also thought to do the same process, but glue up my veneer to a 1/8" or so substraight (i was thinking mdf but i dont know if they make it that thin). Then do the same process above but with a thicker piece i think it would be easier. I would have to use the table saw to rip the inlay strips(would take a while with a veneer saw) thoughts?
  10. I live in southern California and have a neighbor who has a jacuzzi that is still in good shape, but the surround is deteriorating. They asked me if i could build some new panels for the skirt. All it is is 4 panels (one per side) that are screwed to a sub frame. I was thinking of doing something out of redwood, and making a frame with tongue and groove or ship lap vertical inserts. I started to wonder about the wood movement of redwood when it is outside. I was thinking i could do a custom ship lap and make extra deep rabbits that would allow for more movement. Any thoughts, other ideas?
  11. So I'm making cabinets for my shop and I want to make basic frame and panel doors. Done it tons of times with my router table. Problem is now most of my woodworking is done after 8pm (11 month old twins bed time). I wasn't planing on making a haunched tenon just a 1/4" wide by 1/2" deep tounge into the groove like what I would do with my router table. I know a stanley 48 (I think) will do tounges and grooves, but what about a tounge on the end grain? Should I just plow out the groove and cut the tounge by hand?
  12. Hi everyone, I have rescently started wanting to work more with hand tools, having been inspired by a lot of the hybrid woodworkers out there. My problem was that I have 10 month old twins which means I have no money. I was looking at getting some planes of ebay and trying to refurbish them, but was always affraid of buying somthing beyond repair and having a doorstop. To get to the point my parents have sold my grandmothers house and were cleaning out the garage. My grandfather was one of those guys who could not pass up a deal, even if he had 10 screwdrivers he would buy 10 more if they were on sale. Having a bit of the same bug there is no better deal than FREE so i took all the tools without going through them. I have rescently started going through them all and along with 20 pipe wrenches and buckets of copper pipe and galvanized pipe joints i came upon these wood tools. I have a jack plane as well , but these seem like something i can work with. Im pretty sure the back saw is a cabinet saw, is seems to cut better on the cross cut Im not sure what the other 2 saw are, they are very thin blades, but have very deep teeth on the left obviously a mallet then spoke shave (has no 5 stamped on the back) a little wood level (not level) and 2 little low angle, bevel up block planes ( the top one has no markings on it and the other says dunlap on the bock and on the mouth adjustment ) The planes have a pretty good amount of rust on them im going to try refurbishing them any thoughts on what i have
  13. the ruler teaches ratio/scale and perspective. I dont know how many times I have sketched up a drawing to scale that looks good on paper, but once I start putting a tape on it i quickly realize that a distance may be to large or to small for a piece of lumber. That same drawing might look good on paper, but might not look so good scaled up to full size. Josh been working on my house for 3yrs now
  14. Hi everyone. I have been focusing on learning woodworking with making cabinetry (mostly because I am a new homeowner and I need storage). The boxes are the easy part, it is playing around with the doors. Against some advice I have read on other posts and podcasts I have been practicing with pine. Thanks you Marc's raising arizona video i have gotten pretty good at raised panel doors. I was thinking my next project would be to make new doors for our kitchen cabinets. I was thinking of trying to do something like what Marc did on his fancy raised panel video, but with a thinner veneer. Is this doable or is a thicker veneer the way to go? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Right now our cabinets are faceframed with half lap plywood doors with a rounded edge. Doors and frames are the "classic" honey oak color that I think every kitchen built for 40yrs have. I was going to make full overlay doors with euro hinges. Any recomendations on wood species to try that I could try? My original thought is to probably use an oak for the substrate and veneer with a dark constrasting wood, that way the cut out parts on the panel and the rails and styles as well as a 1/4 round edge would be a lighter color and the other parts would be a darker veneer (not sure what species I would go with) Thanks Josh
  15. Looks good, i like the stripping. You make long boards for a living or just a one off? what did you use to join the boards together straight glue or biscuits etc?
  16. I think what I am going to do is get a dado set for the tenons due to the functionality. I have been looking at getting a drill press with a hollow chisel mortiser, due to its functionality and I dont have one yet. For a new wood worker is it worth getting a floor unit? It seems to me that the benefits of a floor unit over a bench unit are saved space on bench space and the ability to do taller/ longer pieces. I think a bench unit is the right balance of cost and use. What do you guys think? Will i outgrow the bench mounted unit quickly?
  17. I have been trying to find a hardwood dealer in LA/OC. I think i have found a few on google, but have not gone to visit them yet. Anyone have any experience with Reel's lumber, Saryoan lumber, or capistrano hardwood? Any other recommended places? Im in North OC, but work in San Juan Capistrano so i travel through most of the OC on a daily basis.
  18. In my cabinetry projects i have just been using pocket screws and biscuits (whatever i was in the mood for) to make the face frames right now. I want to learn and practice making mortise and tenon joints. Have watched Marc's podcast on it i like the idea of doing the "old fashined way", but is it worth getting a jig such as this one http://www.generaltools.com/-870--E-Z-Pro-Mortise-Tenon-Jig_p_1295.html ? or is buying a cheap jig like this just going to create more headache and frusteration in the long run? i have done a few with only hand tools chisel and hand saw, some with my table saw and regular blade (just lots of whittling the cheeks and shoulders) money better spent on a tenoning jig or a dato blade? and a better set of chisels? I have to admit i am a tool and jig guy, dont always have the patients for doing everything with hand tools.
  19. Hi everyone, I have been interested in wood working for a long time. My grandfather was a carpenter trained in Germany and used his skills to come over to America after the war and start his own shop. He did everything from cabinets to custom furniture (classic american dream story, the right way). When I was a teen i would use my dads tool to build crazy sub boxes for my POS Accord, ended up breaking a lot of his stuff and having to pay to fix/buy new equipment. I got married a few years ago and got a house and working on my skills more and more now that i can respect the tools and cost of material more. Just had twin girls 10wks ago, so a lot of what i would like to do has been put on the back burner, but when i do find time to work i find that i work with a slower pace because i know that i am not going to finish any time soon so why rush it. Marc's podcast has been really helpful, i think i was most inspired by the raising arizona (the raised panel door) podcast. i really showed me that i can do a lot of things that i thought were out of reach, just have to have the right parts and a willingness to learn. to date i have not shown my grandfather any of my projects because they are barely acceptable to me (quality wise), but i take every project as an oppotunity to learn (just hope not to learn the hard way like many wood works, still have all finger knock on wood) thanks Josh