Bunnyblaster

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About Bunnyblaster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Currently, my main interest is finishing my soon to come first borns baby bed.
  1. I found one of the best ways to remedy the itch short term (you know, until you get to sleep, or just forget about it for 10 min), is to run the affected area under the hottest water you can stand for a couple seconds. Not enough to burn you, but just up to the point where you can't physically keep it under there much. It seems to numb the itching for a bit. I get poison ivy bad, I know your pain. Another thing to do is swim in a pool or sit in a hot tub with chlorine. It helps to dry the stuff out in a couple days. We have a couple big Ash trees down in the woods from a recent storm. I'll be watching close for the stuff when we cut them up.
  2. Bunnyblaster

    DSC 1380edited

    Thanks. It was a good time mostly spent in a cold barn.
  3. Bunnyblaster

    Hanks Baby Bed

    I designed and built this baby bed for our first son Hank. Not everyone is into gun stuff, but this bed was designed with respect to the greatest gun maker of all time. I've held John Browning's mechanical genius in high regard for most of my adult life, so for the design I thought it would be great to implement components of some of my favorite John Browning designed firearms. They all didn't carry his name in production, but each of them came from his hands. At one point in time, 85 % of the firearms in circulation were designed by Mr. Browning in his Utah workshop. The front rail was built with the Winchester lever action in mind. Two stocks that meet in the middle. Each one is hand checkered at the forearm. I chose the best board of walnut I had for this piece. It had a completely different color tone and grain pattern that really stood out. On the back of the bed under the buckmark logo are cutouts in the shape of the Browning Auto 5. The famous hump back Auto 5 is one of the most recognizable shotguns in history. My grandpa loved his 20 ga Auto 5. While I don't have grandpa's, I look forward to passing mine on to Hank. The top cap on the two front legs have grooves cut in them like the slide on a 1911 .45. The connection with the famous .45 ACP goes a little further, as each hole that contains a connecting bolt is capped with a .45 shell casing. Not only did he design this gun, he created the .45 ACP for it. We didn't want the bed to scream "Hey look, I'm a gun!", but we still wanted the theme to come across. We chose walnut for the wood, and the railing was made of steel. Before final assembly, the railing was sent to a local gunsmith for a hot blueing. To top off the whole thing, I hand carved the buckmark logo into the back of the bed. It took a year to design, learn, build, and finish this bed. Its not perfect by any means. Mistakes are up one side and down the other. Its the first piece of furniture I've ever tackled, so this is to be expected. Overall my wife and I are happy with it. Hank seems to be too.
  4. The more I get to looking the more I think a simple crosscut sled will do more than fine. I have a condition where my eyes are often bigger than my stomach. This applies to most aspects of my life. Thanks for the help, but I think I'm going to chicken out.
  5. In thinking more about this cabinet I'd like to build for my saw, I wondered if there was a way to incorporate a sliding table top on the left side of the saw. Right now the only thing I can think of to use for the "slides" are some heavy duty drawer slides. My concern with these is A. are they tight enough that a guy could mount them square to the blade and know that they'll roll square to the blade. Another option would be using some type of wheels on a track. The wheels could hit the track from the sides, and could be adjusted to square the sliding part of the table up with the blade, and hold the wheels tight to the track. Or a guy could just make a cross cut sled. Any thoughts? Aaron
  6. Yeah, it seems like you'd probably want to join your 1x6x6 pieces together somehow. I'm just beginning in all this too, but we built a bed for our son a couple months ago. I don't have a jointer for the headboard, so it was a lot of work with a hand plane to get the rough lumber to join up close enough. It still wasn't close enough for a really good glue joint, so I used pocket screws. It's pretty solid and you can't see the joints unless you're really looking for them. You'll pay a serious premium if you buy your lumber at lowes. The upside is that its pre-surfaced on all 4 sides. The downside is its priced about 4 or 5 times what you can find it for with one straight edge, and it doesn't give you an excuse to buy more tools.
  7. Sounds like something I should probably pass on.
  8. Thats 2.5 one way. I live in the middle of no where, so thats kind of normal....but still a lot of time and gas. Heres the pics he had on craigslist. Someone else got ahold of me the other day with a Delta 6" with the Byrd head on it. He was wanting $550 too. I was really wanting an 8 though.....mainly because I'd just rather not upgrade for a while.
  9. Came across a guy looking to sell a Powermatic Model 60 8 in jointer. From pics it looks like its in fair condition for its age. When i asked if it needed parts, here's what he told me. "I have all the parts except the bolt that holds the fence on the mount. Easy to make one just like the original. You would need a few standard bolts and a belt. I have the gibs for the knifes." Anyone know what bolt he's talking about that holds the fence to the mount? Would it really be easy to get? He's wanting $550 for it. Its tempting for a good 8" jointer, but I'm kinda wondering how much work its going to be.....and its about a 2.5 hr drive.... Time, parts, and frustration taken into account, I almost wonder if a guy shouldn't just order a Griz shipped to his door. I've never owned a jointer before, so any help would be appreciated. thanks Aaron
  10. I've got a PM 63 I picked up with a bunch of other power tools from a guy that decided he wasn't going to use them. I've been looking around and I like the idea of building a cabinet system to put the saw in, instead of using the stamped legs it comes with. I've looked around the web and saw several options. Anyone here have a favorite design? I know I want a router table on the right side, and possibly retractable casters. Thoughts? Anything out there I may have missed? Could I just use formica countertop material, or is there something smoother? thanks for the help Aaron
  11. Up to this point I've never used Shellac. Would this shell it makes eventually chip off? Thats what worries me about the clear coat. Aaron
  12. I posted on here a while back about a bed I built for our newly born son. Well, I finally got the parts I've been waiting for to finish it. Part of the bed includes metal that was blued by a gunsmith. Took him about 6 months to do it, but whatever, they look good. Heres my problem. To keep them from eventually rusting, they need to be oiled. No one wants their kid to lick WD40 off his own bed though right? So I'm wondering if I could spray a clear coat on them and keep them from rusting? Anyone familiar with the bluing process and the possibility of the clear coat reacting with the steel negatively? thanks for the help Aaron
  13. Sorry. Should have clarified how old they were. These Stanley's are walmart specials from about 5 years ago or so. They shouldn't be rusty after such a short life, but anything in my barn rusts pretty fast. Very frustrating. I'm in the process of fixing that by walling in a 30 x 18 area for the shop. I'll throw in a good de-humidifier and hopefully that will fix the problem. Constantly cleaning the surface rust off the tables of the bandsaw and table saw get old real quick.
  14. Thanks for the help. Lots of info here.
  15. Bunnyblaster

    Chisels?

    I'm looking to upgrade the rusty Stanley chisels I have. Any good recommendations for under $100 maybe? I know a guy's generally gonna get what he pays for, but I guess you could say I'm still feeling the waters on the wood working stuff. Currently they'd be used for general pearing, cleaning mortises, and dovetails. Thanks for the help! Aaron