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About jmack77

  • Birthday 12/09/1977

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  • Location
    Charles Town, WV
  • Woodworking Interests
    Pretty much everything.

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  1. Thanks. Will keep that in mind.
  2. Okay. So, i picked up some JB Weld Steel Stick and tried that and it seemed to hold!! I sharpened the blade a bit and put it back together. Gave ir a few test runs and it seems to be holding!! Thanks for all the help.
  3. Sigh.. So i finally had some time to try and clean up this plane. Turns out its a #19, coming in at 7 inches n length. Anywho, while trying to put this pin back in... Well, just look at the picture. Am i done for? Or can i use an epoxy or something to reattach the broken piece?
  4. Thanks!! It seems to be in good shape. I hope to have it cleaned up this weekend.
  5. Hey Everyone, Once again I come to you for help identifying a hand plane. This past fall a long time family friend passed away and her family gave me several hand planes that had belonged to her husband who had passed years ago. This one is a block plane, and I thought it was a No. 9 1/2 at first, but now I'm not sure. Any thoughts? Thanks!!!
  6. You guys rock!! I'm having a hard time up loading pics from my phone. I'll post some tomorrow at work. It did come with an iron, but it has a chip breaker attached to it. So I've doubted that the iron was meant for it. According to my father it was lying next to the plane, so he assumed it was meant for that plane. I'm heading over next week to look at some other tools that the family has said I can have. So I'll keep my eye out for a possible iron for this plane.
  7. When a close family friend passed away several weeks ago, I recieved this hand plane from her son in-law. It belonged to her father, so I don't know much about it. What I do know is that it's 8 inches long, and is about 3 inches wide. The manufacturer's name is stamped on the front and looks upside-down. All I can make out is "Sc****works". I think it might be just a block plane, but I don't have much experience with hand planes. I'm hoping someone might be able to tell me what type of plane it is and who the manufacturer was. It would be awesome to restore it and have it in my shop. I'll try to upload a couple more pictures.
  8. Thanks everyone for the feedback. Before gluing, I played around with the board for the best grain match. I was pleasantly suprised that just about every matching had a nice seam. So when it came time for glue up, I didn't have to bear down on them clamping pressure. I used parallel clamps, and made sure that the board were lying flat. One thing that I did not do, and talk about a rookie mistake, was use cuals except on one. I assumed that since the board were lying flat that everything would be okay. In the end, I guess not. I cut the four boards along the glue lines last night. And have stickered them over night and all day today. I did take a look at them this morning, and most were okay as far as cupping. The others I will put through the jointer. And then send them all through the planner to I also went and looked at the edge that was joined. Those were all looking good as well. For the edges that got glued, I used the edges that were formed on my TS. I guess the next step is to make sure my blade is set at the 90°.
  9. I made sure to flip the boards over during the milling process to try and take the same amount from both sides. And I haven't had any issues with the joined boards bowing. The middle of the cup is at the joint. I guess I could split the boards at the joint. Which is a bummer cause the glue lines are practically invisible. Then re mill the boards and try again. I have some wiggle room with the thickness, as this is for a bread box for Mother's Day.
  10. Looking for some advice. This past weekend I milled some 4/4 walnut that I've had for about a year down to 3/4. Got them all nice and flat. I edge glued two boards together and clamped them for about 12 hours. For a total of four boards. All four were done gluing by Monday afternoon. Today I went out to start sanding when I saw that all four have cupped. I live in Martinsburg, WV, and yesterday we had a front move in. Over the weekend we had nice warm sunny days. Today it's been cool and cloudy with slight rain. My shop is in our garage with no AC or heat. Could this cupping being caused by the weather?
  11. Thanks again for all of the good info! We decided to go with the miter joint. With it being an island, I don't have to worry about one side being constrained by a wall. Plus, the client really liked the look of the miter. It was also decided to go with sapele 1.5 inch thick. Which should be pretty stable. Pug, I'll post the sketch up drawing tomorrow morning.
  12. I'm with Vinny about the blades being backwards. I did that once a while ago, and it looked like that when it was all said in done. When you were making the cut, was there some smoke and or a lot more sawdust then normal?
  13. Thanks for the info guys. FYI. It looks like the counter top is going to be made from Cherry or Sapele.
  14. Hey everyone, I'm in need of some help from the wood working brain trust. I've got a client who wants a "L" shaped kitchen island. Up until now she was going to go with a quartz countertop. However, she has now changed her mind, and would like a wooden countertop. I think it will look great, but I'm stumped about the joint. I think a miter joint would look best, but I'm worried about the wood movement putting too much stress on the joint. Would a butt joint work better? The countertop is going to be 36 inches wide, and if we stick with using wood, it would be at least 1.5" thick. Any thoughts?