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Everything posted by 00101

  1. So I'm (very) new to the wide world of planes, and have been just looking around the web for information on them. That's when I ran into infill planes. I'm not entirely sure what benefits they offer (if someone could give a brief overview that'd be lovely ), but since they tend to be super high end and expensive, I figured I'd look up how to make one just for the hell of it. All I know is that I need to find myself a machinist buddy haha. http://user.xmission.com/~jry/ww/tools/a13/a13.html
  2. Yeah I factored in sand and rock. Its a 20L on top with, currently, a 15g sump, but I've made the stand such that it could accomodate a 29 for both. I'm thinking about modifying the design a bit, construction wise, its not going to change much of anything other than the legs getting larger at the bottom and the rails getting wider and a curve getting cut into them. Through mortises might be considered as well. This piece really caught my eye and I've been thinking this little mock up is pretty plain anyway.
  3. I meant that the legs--one single piece from top to floor--extend 4" past the bottom shelf. One other thing I had forgotten to mention, and that is basically impossible to see from the mock ups, is that the plywood for the bottom shelf would sit in a 1/2 lip in the bottom frame such that it would be flush with the top of the bottom frame.
  4. The top is around 3/4"-1" thick depending on what kind of stock I can find. I wasn't entirely sure yet how I would attach the top to the frame, I had thought about just screwing it on in a few spots. I'd prefer to keep the top solid hardwood if it isn't going to compromise the structure. And about most the weight being straight down the legs, the bottom piece would be holding a tank potentially as heavy as the one on top, so this one would be supported by the mortise and tenons. What would be the way to size these tenons?
  5. I'm building an aquarium stand for my reef tank. The lighter brown in the mock-ups is bubinga. The top would be solid bubinga along with all the rails and legs. The bottom shelf would be a bubinga veneered (or maybe just plain) plywood. The darker one is wenge, except on the sides where it would be wenge veneered plywood. The light support pieces are probably going to be maple. There is going to be a tank on top, as well as one inside the cabinet. Net weight is conservatively 350lbs not including other equipment. I'd feel comfortable if weight support estimates were around 500lbs or greater.
  6. 00101

    Stanley No. 4

    Well turns out what I had thought was tarnish and grime on the handles and brass was in fact enamel spray paint. One of the previous owners had spray painted over rosewood and brass (and everything else). Completely blew my mind why anyone would do that. So based on the fact that just about the entire plane has been spray painted already, I'm going to go for a full restoration.
  7. 00101

    Stanley No. 4

    It just really bugs me because stanley used to sell the nut for $3.35 on their website. Of course its discontinued now.
  8. 00101

    Stanley No. 4

    So I had picked this gem in the rough at a flea market about a year ago for $5. I had flattened the sole, and started sharpening the blade, but had never really finished the restoration process. I've noticed that the sides of the body, cap iron, and frog are all painted black. From my little bits of googling around for similar era planes, as best I can tell this painting is not original. Do I stand to gain anything--other than authenticity perhaps--by removing said paint? I assume when I go to true the frog, part of the paint is going to be removed, but should I attempt stripping it off of the
  9. Would pieces going across all sides and joined with tenons be sufficient?
  10. Whole thing is going to be about 40" tall, about 32" wide, and 16"-18" deep For tying them together I'll have tenons across the top and bottom on the front of the stand, unfortunately utility dictates that the front will be two cabinet doors with no obstructions. Front to back I'm thinking I'll do some veneered 1/2" ply in grooves cut into the legs. I can also add some cross pieces on the inside, since its going to be kinda ugly in there anyway by virtue of plumbing, equipment, and chemicals. And from side to side on the back I'll do the same as the sides. The top is going to
  11. So I'm planning on making a few pieces for my bedroom. I'd like them to match, but one is a stand for an aquarium, meaning it needs to support around 400-500lbs. I'm thinking of legs similar to this here for the pieces. If the legs are 3/4 walnut, would that be sufficient for supporting the weight of the aquarium? Or are there ways to get around the issue, like the actual legs hidden behind the smaller prettier ones?
  12. I considered that the side profile is only part of a cove, and that to cut it I'd just need to use only part of the blade. However, in thinking about that, I don't think that doing so would be all that safe. If I did only use part of the blade such that one of the edges was over the blade, I'm concerned that since there's no support on the blade side of the piece that it would be incredibly easy for it to tip into the blade and... well whatever happens when work binds in a cove cut. Hmm... Would gluing a sacrificial piece of pine or something to it to make it wider, then cut the necessary
  13. Not entirely sure if this should go here or in general talk, but I figure chances are I'll being doing the bulk of this with a power tool so.... I'm looking to make a box similar in profile to this piece here I'm wondering how to go about making the profiles in the sides and lid. I originally was (and still am) thinking of using the table saw cove technique to get the sides roughed, but as I've been looking at this, it doesn't appear to be a cove. More of a swooshy deal. And secondly looking at the lid, the round over appears to be elongated and not the circular profile standard rou
  14. Not to necropost too much, but would I be fine using a fine-ish blade to cut copper plumbing tube? I've used some piping to act as a ferrel on the ends of a mallet head and I need to trim them off so they're even and clean.
  15. This one didn't fit on the first post for whatever reason. Also the red is sharpie.
  16. Just picked up a Bailey No.4 Type 9 circa 1902 from a flea market this week end. It's missing the depth knob and the lateral adjustment lever (along with the small piece of the frog it attaches to). But for $14 I couldn't pass it up. As this is my first decent plane I'm seeking some advice on tuning it up. I've already gotten pretty close to done lapping it flat; however, there's about a 1/4" band along the tip of the toe that doesn't have the same scratch pattern as the rest of the sole. Of that 1/4", there's a spot around 1/2" across and 1/8" in that still has some of the patina on it. I
  17. 00101

    Used table saw

    Also looking at this homecraft, its $100 in town, but the amount of rust is slightly concerning, especially in the corner. It has a 10" blade and a 3/4 rated horsepower motor (but based on the electrical ratings its closer to 1.8Hp). I don't have a model number on it, but the serial is z2940 made by the 'Delta power tool division of Rockwell manufacturing' in Milwaukee Wisconsin, if that helps place or identify it.
  18. Im looking for a table saw upgrade and have been browsing CL and found this: For $20 for both. It's about 45 minutes one way to go and get it. I'm currently using a ~$200 craftsman contractor saw, so finding something better isn't exactly going to be a challenge. Unfortunately there aren't any details on this, so I'm hoping someone here might be able to recognize the style or make and offer some insight.
  19. 00101

    Honing Stones

    So for the extra $20-$30 I should just get a traditional because it'll last longer? Or does the rate that you need to flatten the traditional make them go faster?
  20. 00101

    Honing Stones

    Has anyone here used the shapton glass stones? They seem to be cheaper than the traditional stones.
  21. Well I've got some pictures of the bowl that I'll post later. I also did find an old slightly yellowed face shield in a cabinet filled with garbage. So there's that. I did ask my teacher, just in the event that it was in a never used cabinet--like the face shield, if we had a bowl gouge. We didn't, he sharpened the spindle roughing gouge and told me to try that. Well it cut, but when it would catch on the bowl with the slightest provocation. I did stop shortly after because I just did not feel anything close to safe turning it.
  22. I don't intend to quit woodworking anytime soon; I like it a lot, and besides, I've got waaay too much money tied up in it . About the teacher, frankly he doesn't really teach us much of anything. He more or less just pointed to the lathe, said that's a lathe, told us to chamfer the corners off, and said go. He doesn't really explain how to do stuff, thankfully I have my own shop and home and know how to do most operations, so I haven't really been struggling much. Our shop also does not have any face shields, which is why I'm quite frankly rather scared when I start pushing the gouge int
  23. How would I go about finding such a club? Any good places to start the search?
  24. Thankfully not. It's only a high school course and really isn't worth much in the way of learning stuff. Anything that doesn't have a replaceable blade in there needs a complete tune up. I asked the instructor if he could have a chisel sharpened one day, and he came back from the bench grinder and gave it back to me and said "Try that on for size" with a grin on his face. The bevel had at least 6 different planes in it with the leading edge all wavy. The turning tools are just as abysmal. One of the skews literally was rounded over. It feels good to vent sometimes. Anyway, is there rea
  25. I'll definitely watch the two videos, but unfortunately the shop that the class uses does not have any bowl gouges. I don't have a lathe, so I'm certainly not going to go out and buy a bowl gouge. I do need to finish this project, however. Maybe watching the videos will provide an answer to my dilemma. And at the very least I don't have to worry about tapering the outside or inside nor do I have to worry about hollowing it out from a solid block. So maybe that will improve my chances of success with undesirable tools.