Idbill

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Everything posted by Idbill

  1. Uh... I was scroll sawing a piece of Madrone (that I purchased probably about a month ago) and a ran into a perfectly round 1/4" hole that was well packed with sawdust... after cutting about 8" into the wood a live larvae popped out! Turns out, that the hole was about 10" deep about 1/2" in from the edge starting at the end. I looked for further holes, but didn't see any. How worried should I be for the rest of my wood? Bill
  2. Well... actually second. I acquired several panel saws, most of which are very dull. I sharpened one, which I thought went well, but it cuts very rough. I went back sharpened it again, and it is improved, but not great. So then I started looking at the teeth more closely, and found many problems: - gullets that don't all match in depth - teeth don't all have the same height I'm wondering if it would be advisable to send it to the local sharpening shop to at least get a 'base' to start with? The local machine shop will do this (all by machine of course) for $12. Also, would your opinion change if you thought this was a Diston (pre WWII) saw? Bill
  3. Yep, that sure looks like it. Mine doesn't have 'Perfection' cast into the main part and no letter above the 'Made in USA'. I can see where the label used to be. In the box of misc parts, I did see the right side of the fence. I'm thinking of making a new base for it... just need to find a 16" saw. I was given a 11" steel back which may work for small stuff. The saw slides very smoothly and doesn't wiggle at all. Thanx, Bill
  4. I was given this recently, and I'm wondering if I have all the parts. Does anyone have more information about this item? Bill
  5. Anyone know what the attached tool is? The sole is slightly curved. I'm guessing it is for smoothing the inside of barrels? Bill
  6. For the last 2 weeks, I've been having problems loading the PopularWoodworking website. Nothing ever loads... no text, no images... nothing. Sometimes after 6-8 reloads, I'll start to get something, but most of the page doesn't load. Today, I thought I'd take a closer look. It would appear that they are hosting their own copy of jQuery (why not use google's CDN version?), and (and some of the jQuery plugins) don't ever finish loading. (link: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-includes/js/jquery/jquery.js?ver=1.11.1 ) Makes me wonder if they got hit by the Wordpress hack... Maybe someone can pass this on to PopularWoodworking... Bill
  7. Is there anyone in the Seattle area that would be willing to be paid to create 9 octagonal finials? They are approx 7" x 7" x 7" I've included a picture of the original (very rough looking), and a rough contour outline. The contour (in white) is a solid piece of laminated wood, and the grey piece is trim attached to the outside. (Note the 'top' shown in the picture and not the contour is a separate piece.) I attempted to cut this on the band saw but my 14" band saw doesn't have the cutting depth. With patience this is do-able, but requires a 16" band saw or 14" with a riser. I'd charge $100/ea I'd also build it with 2x8 cedar lumber which is $50 for a 6' board, but softer than Southern Yellow Pine and would have better longevity. I'm asking for someone, so if you're interested, I will show you what I've learned and will connect you with them (they are pre-internet). Thanx, Bill
  8. If you live near the Pacific Northwest, check out: Port Townsend School of Woodworking http://www.ptwoodschool.com/ (Roughly speaking, it's near the border of Washington and Canada.) I attending a class last weekend and was extremely impressed. Class sizes are small allowing for one-on-one instruction and the instructors are very knowledgeable. If you look thru the visiting instructor list you'll see: Darrell Peart Garrett Hack Chris Schwarz and more If you have any interest in Hand Tools, you should check it out!
  9. I made the 2 'shorties' 36"h x 48"w x 14"d for the office. Originally I was going to make it simple, but I was concerned that a 47" shelf would bow so I divided the space into two. Not only does this add more stability, but also allows for varying shelf spacing. I have the following comments after finishing my 2 bookcases: The plywood wasn't from a big box store, but it also wasn't from my hardwood lumber supplier. On the whole it was pretty good, except for the 1/4" is warped. I didn't have much choice because of selection... So beware of really warped 1/4 ply. You have to push on the back to allow the shelf on the right side to drop into place. I liked your idea of using dowels to attach the face frame to the carcass. I had a doweling jig and drilled the dowels into the plywood first. Then used the centering pins as you showed. Working with one hole at a time, with dowels dry fit into place after drilling in the face frame kept everything in place. It worked great! I think this worked because this set the dowel holes perfectly perpendicular to the surface and the holes in the face frame only needed to 3/8" deep. I've done edge-banding in the past, but I think edging with solid wood allows for more edge treatment options for a softer feel. Doweling jig similar to what I have: (mine only opens up to about 1") http://www.woodcraft...weling-jig.aspx
  10. I have a bunch of wet/dry sandpaper in varying grits. At some point I organized it by number, but found that my P600 is more coarse than my 400b. Does anyone know what the P vs b indicates?
  11. I have a Starrett 6" and bought an iGaging 4" (from Rockler) so that I'd be able to keep 2 measurements simultaneously. This is what I noticed: Starrett lettering is etched much deeper than the iGaging When the Starrett is adjusted, the 2 pieces slide smoothly and not rock (ever so slightly) with iGaging Those things are really minor, and I only noted them by comparing them next to each other. Other things to note: which ever you get, get the satin finish. It won't reflect and is easier to read. for the 4" or smaller get the T shaped one and not the combo 90/45 degree version. The 45 degree head uses up a substantial portion of the ruler.
  12. Maybe you can answer this... I bought a big set (big as in 20-25 sizes, with 20 of each size) from Rockler when they had their sale a few months back. (Red metal case) They seem weak and break easily, at least the small sizes. What appears to happen is I am drilling a deep hole (1-2 inches) with a small bit, (1/8" for example) and about 3/4 of the way thru the hole heats up, the wood expands and the bit gets locked in place. Next thing I know, the bit twists in half. So my question is: Do I need to clear the flutes of the bit out more often? (I try to clear the chips out of the bit out every 1/2" or so of drilling.) Is this a feature of cheap bits? Am I doing something else wrong? Thanx, Bill
  13. Huh... neither. Mine looks closer to the 'new style' but with a smaller post on the left (same diameter as the small post), and the vac attachment is on the right behind the post at the base. I've had the router for a few years, so I doubt the warranty replacement would work. I'd also assume this is/was an issue that they had to redesign the plunge mechanism. Also looks like they made some other improvements. - moved the edge guide bars to the front - more depth stops - built in vac capabilities Thanks for the info.
  14. I have a Porter Cable 895 and am using the plunge base and have the following issues: 1) The 'lock' doesn't feel very positive. More info: To lock the depth, I push on the lever, but it seem like the 'stop' or end of travel is barely in lock mode. I've tried resetting the lever on the big nut, but then it won't unlock. Is there another adjustment? 2) When plunging the bit rocks slightly so in the end I get a slight dumb-bell shaped slot. Is this normal for this router base? Is there some kind of adjustment to deal with this? Bill
  15. Over the course of the Roubo build, time appears to have stopped... at 8:10, as per the clock in the background. That must be what happens when a build is really in the groove. Maybe someone in AZ can stop by with some batteries for Mark. Bill
  16. Thought I'd just chime in... Here are some prices per bf in Seattle for 8/4: (as of January 2012) Cherry - $10.50 Walnut - $9.50 White Oak - $6.95 Soft Maple - $6.65 Birch - $6.50 (small selection) Red Oak - $4.65 Alder - $3.95 (small selection) Eastern Ash - $3.95 I've used a lot of the Maple in the past, but only 4/4 stock. I've also had the (un)pleasure of using real Hard Maple. But it was my understanding that the Maple comes from Canada, and from the name... Ash comes from back east!? So I went with Ash. This was at: http://crosscuthardwoods.com/ The guys there are really helpful, and if you purchase $500+ shipping is free in Seattle. Bill
  17. Here are some pictures... The 29249 (Hinge Countersunk Barrel) Which produces a 1/8" gap With the 29249 flipped over... Which binds very badly The 29256 (CNTSNK BACK-2LVS 1/2 SWAGE) Note, this hinge is ever so slightly longer. In order for this to work at all, the hinge had to be shifted quite a bit out to the leaf, but still binds very badly With the 29249 flipped over... Which produces a 1/16" gap. This is what I'm going with! Also note (as I expected) the hinge pin is centered on the bottom edge of the table. Moral or the story: 1) As Mark says, 'With the test pieces, you can at least try different mounting strategies until you find what works for you.' 2) Test, test, test... even if it looks obvious. I hope someone else can learn from this experience. Bill
  18. OK, flipped the 'Countsink Back-2LVS 1/2 Swage' 29256 hinge over and the pin appears to be centered on the bottom edge of the table. When hinged, the gap looks good. My conclusion is that these hinges are not designed to be inset... just the barrel is supposed to be inset. It is unfortunate that there isn't any instructions included with the hinge or on the Rockler website other than the sales image.
  19. Ok, so I've now bought both the Rockler drop leaf hinges. My table/leaf edge is straight. I originally bought the 'Hinge Countersunk Barrel' 29249, inset the hinge... but found that when hinged down, the leaf ended up being about 1/4+" below the bottom of the table so I flipped the hinge over, and inset the barrel. Then the leaf wouldn't hinge because of binding. So I went back and got the 'Countsink Back-2LVS 1/2 Swage' 29256. This hinge is thankfully a little larger, so the screw holes are very different. Now it appear when the leaf is hinged down, it 'moves UP (towards the top of the table) by ~1/8", and to not bind, the pin needs to be just beyond the table edge(?) So I just visited the Rockler website and the hinge is shown SURFACE mounted! WTF. Searching for tips on mounting drop leaf hinges, sends me to:WhiteChapel ... which looks exactly like my 1st attempt. After thinking about it... it seems like the barrel needs to be centered on the gap between the two... and also centered on the bottom edge of the table, but that has become obviously clear to me that that logic doesn't apply here. I'm stumped...
  20. I'm building a layout table with drop leaves. This table is designed to be used as a fabric cutting and layout table. The main table top is 32" x 32" and 36" from the floor. The top will be 3/4" 11ply shop maple, with 1" maple rabbeted to the edges with a formica surface. Legs are 1 3/4" Maple tapered to 1 1/4" with a roughly 4" drawer... set back 4-6 inches from the edge of the table. There will be a cross brace 12" from the floor. There will be a leaf on opposite sides that are 20" wide. I'm looking to finish the design, but I'm unsure what type of support hinge to use. Initially, we were thinking of a smaller top, and larger leaves with fold out legs. After making some cardboard tops, we decided on the measurements above, and I believe the main table will be able to support the leaves when extended. http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/FURNITURE+HINGES/Table+Hinges+-+Shelf+Hinges/Hinged+Drop+Leaf+Table+Support But wanted to find out if there may be better options. Thank you in advance, Bill
  21. Idbill

    Roubo Build

    Ash roubo build images