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About tombuhl

  • Birthday April 29

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    Santa Barbara, CA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Create custom, personal items for friends, family and very special people. Use combination of power and hand tools. Any piece I create should have new techniques and/or elements giving me the opportunity to refine my skills.

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  1. tombuhl

    ready to go

    Hello Brian, The bottom and top stretchers are mortised (& tenons) into the legs. btw, the stretchers are ship lapped into each other. I put a screw from below into the lower stretchers, but that is probably unnecessary. In fact, I am building another short version of this design as a gift and will not bother with the screw into the lower stretchers this time. Thanks for your comment.
  2. Thanks, Eric. I hadn't been in the forum for a few years. Yesterday I had a query on a 2012 post so here I am. Joseph, their site is not the most reliable. The ONLINE STORE link is working for me today. I generally don't think of b.f. cost but Mike is right about the general pricing. There is variability due to "desirability" or issues which might warrant a downward adjustment. Not inexpensive but I enjoy working with material with a story. Show & Tell time. Images of a dresser I built last year (2015). Top and drawer fronts are of that sinker H. Mahogany. The drawer pulls are sinker Sapodilla also from Greener Lumber. I ordered a board long time ago by mistake. Much harder than Mahogany but works to very nice finish. Remainder of the Mahogany from Shannon Rogers (Hardwood to Go) and local dealer, Soboba. Drawer sides & backs of Sugar Pine. Drawer bottoms and back slats of cedar. I don't generally mix so many species, but chest of drawers are different animal. On top of the dresser but not designed to be there as its final destination is a circular shelf unit of Walnut and black-milk-painted Poplar. A very challenging piece. Execution not great. Glue up was awful even with dry testing. Adding glue increased the challenge. Probably should have used epoxy to give time and slipperiness. Next time... For blog posts and pix of the dresser build, check out: Circular shelf: Thanks
  3. Two weeks ago I received a shipment of old-growth, river-salvaged H. Mahogany from Greener Lumber, LLC. These boards are all from the same log. In 2012 I had received two planks from this log. [See image of computer desk made from one of them.] Now the family is reunited. Wonderful ribboned and other figuring. Rough sawn to 1-1/8 inch thick this stock is heavier and tougher than typical Mahogany. I've begun work on a cabinet as the next build with this awesome material. The cabinet will be used to safely store my prized THE BOOK OF PLATES published by Lost Art Press. A while ago Rich (of Greener Lumber) posted a short gallery bio and pix of projects I've created using his Mahogany. Check out:
  4. tombuhl

    Hickory Wood

    btw re: the wine cabinet Those legs are ash. Wish I had held out for some hickory in suitable thickness. Which I have found on other days at the dealer. The ash is my one regret on the wine cabinet.
  5. tombuhl

    Hickory Wood

    Late to the party here. I scanned the first few replies and seems that folks have more experience with ash than hickory. I am big fan of hickory. It finishes readily to nice luster and feel. Ash, not so much. Used it for my Roubo Bench, but would not consider it for nice furniture. Hickory can be splintery and tough stuff, but not super abrasive to cutting edges. Plan well and you'll be rewarded. A bed might be a big project for hickory. My experience says it is not readily available in wider widths if that matters. Being sort of an out of favor wood it is not too expensive. Not sure how it compares to ash for price. Something as long lasting as a bed price is not hopefully the biggest concern. Attached is image of wine cabinet. Hickory with Mahogany for horizontal elements. Leg detail is my computer desk with hickory legs. Hickory is my favorite light colored material. Good luck with your build.
  6. The Roubo is a robust hunk of bench so no issues (for me) with the lowering and raising one corner at a time. With first wheel raised the bench sort of balances on the three wheels. Lowering the other wheel at that end can create a thunk. That's why we use heavy and solid materials. It is not a large drop. I believe rated raise is 3/4 inch, if one had a level driveway. So it is not falling from great heights. re: raising and lowering the legs. My description may have had some backwards components . 2nd attempt: I can't get enough oomph to lower the wheels by raising the lever by hand or with foot. So I use a crowbar (which is always on the lower bench shelf). End against ground (concrete driveway), side of bar snug to level edge or end and lift by hand. Works fine. Then to lower, I push the lever with my foot using leg power while holding a bit of the weight in that corner.
  7. Eric, those casters on the flip board did not work well. Wanted to flip up at wrong times. I removed those and installed the Rockler flip casters. I had hesitated due to the screws holding to vertical face of legs which seemed weak. But they've held up for several years now. To lower the bench I use a crowbar. Not enough leverage for the beast to do it with foot power. To flip back up I remove a bit of weight from the corner, lift and push lever down with my foot. Works well. Most times I leave wheels down as I roll it into the driveway to work. If I'm doing heavy duty planing or sawing, then I put the wheels down. But it is pretty stable even on the wheels. No video. I leave that to the young guys like Mark, Matt and Shannon.
  8. While it looks like Marc and Shannon (with a maybe on Matt) won't be there this year, I am sure that the Modern Woodworking folks will be represented. They are a very outgoing and welcoming group with much overlap with the WoodTalkOline community. Most of them wear the MWA Ts at the show, so just introduce yourself and follow 'em around if you are looking for after show socializing. Since Marc and Shannon won't be there to defend themselves, all are welcome to talk about 'em until their little ears burn. You can check out MWA at: I'll also miss WIA 2014 for some budget repairs, but have high hopes for 2015.
  9. I whole heartedly endorse the Mary May online school. I did that for several months over the winter and thoroughly enjoyed it. Impressed my family and friends and had an excuse to buy a few more gouges. Her style of demonstration suits my learning style perfectly. I have heard good things on Chris Pye's, but have not checked that out.
  10. I have been to three (or four) WIAs. They are high on my list of satisfying experiences. The sessions bring in outstanding and very accessible teachers/experts. The Marketplace is awesome. The opportunity to talk to the people who actually design and build the tools is incredible. Even if you are too shy to initiate conversations with our (woodworking/toolmaker) legends, being able to eavesdrop on the chatter is super satisfying. A highlight for me is to interact with fellow attendees. Some, I sort of knew from forums and social media while others just struck up a conversation while fondling an exquisite hand tool. That makes our mostly solo woodworking hobby much richer. After the show, it is fun to follow up with folks about our projects and impressions of various sessions and discussions. I like the size of the event. My eyeballs just spin and brain goes to sleep in large convention settings. This has intimate and cozy feel, but with enough attendees and vendors to keep interest level high. Great opportunity to make some cuts with a Bad Axe hand saw, create micro-fine shavings with a Sauer and Steiner plane, take some whacks with Blue Spruce or Shenandoah mallets or ask a Lie-Nielsen tech person how they set up a smoothing plane. Ever wonder what the attraction is to wooden hand planes? A number of creators are usually there, including Scott Meeks. After hours with the WoodTalkOnline community has been a great feature. That might be missed this year, but if you just follow you nose you'll find interesting people to hang with after show hours. If you don't make it this year, at least flag your calendar for the 2015 event.
  11. Anyone have experience with PW Shop Class online subscription offerings? Overall value? Compared to other subscriptions and/or free online content? Thanks, tom
  12. Hey Fred, I gotta run off for tennis match (the glory of living in Santa Barbara) but had to shoot off my plea to avoid shooting pin nails. Just a personal cringe factor, not based on knowledge. Seems you have large glue surface and the biscuits helping. So just clamp them well and pull together with tape if necessary along various points. Will write later about finishing thoughts. ciao
  13. Frede, by kerf cut do you mean cross cut? With a miter cut that long you'd probably experience some burning with many species. That is just a long cut with the blade rotated over 45 degrees. Are you using any reinforcement of the miters at glue up, such as splines or such? Given the size and thickness of your workpieces, plus that you have the top and bottom keeping things in place you are probably ok without them, but I would have used something. Some warn about glues on tropical hardwoods with their oil (?) content. I've generally been ok with regular PVA glue, but have solid joinery to mechanically assist. I've found Bubinga to be quite stable, or not as likely to cup and twist as many woods, so you probably are fine with a solid door. From your photos the bubinga appears to be quarter sawn which helps stability. Your design is fairly narrow for full frame and panel, but this might be a good time for you to give that a try. It will change the look of your piece a bit. Might also nudge the odds of things staying true over time. Post some pix once you have the piece finished. I did the sideboard early in my woodworking days and am not thrilled with the finish on the top. Too glossy and thick appearing for my taste. I tried a new (to me) technique. Did not like how it was after a few coats and hoped the further coats would help. Lesson learned. Many more to go.
  14. I haven't used Sapele but have used quite a bit of South American Mahogany (including genuine Honduran Mahogany salvaged from rivers in Belize) and also Bubinga. Worlds of difference working with those species. Bubinga is very heavy and very hard. That being said, you can work with it. You just have to pay attention to what is happening and use good practices. I would not try to carve it for sure. I've posted pix of a sideboard I made using some highly figured Bubinga. Legs are Padauk. Took my time and now have a stunning piece to show for that effort. Time has mellowed the contrast somewhat, but it catches the eye of anyone coming into our home. Besides a few larger pieces with Bubinga, I've also used it fairly often for boxes and smaller items. Gotta make use of those offcuts. As a newer woodworker, I believe it is fun and beneficial to work with a wide variety of woods so that you gain first hand experience of the material. From the workability aspect, and also just have a variety of pieces down the road to look at. Good luck with your current project.