• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jpdorn

  1. as the others.. i use it when i don't mind a short open time and often when i want to start banging on the assembly relatively quickly. ime, it doesn't need to sit in clamps as long as liquid hide glue which i use for everything else. i seem to be one of the few that doesn't think it stinks. rather like the smell tbh..
  2. golden. anything else is an also ran..
  3. i just sold my unisaw with the exactor. loved it.
  4. yeah, there's no real way around practice but i enjoy the development of the skill. aside from that.. one hand holds the fence against the work, the other moves it through the cut keep an eye on your layout lines as you progress so it doesn't get away from you an auxiliary fence (assuming your rabbet plane (moving filister) has one) and increasing the registration surface helps quite a bit..
  5. yes, there is a cure. stop buying and using crappy software. no, that'll never happen. just sayin..
  6. this will likely prove useful. read the whole series.
  7. i agree. it's a great tool. i do wish that i had purchased the large rather than the medium. the medium is just a bit too small to use comfortably in my hands and i've not yet come across an instance where the larger blade would have been anything but an advantage.
  8. there's always some punk that can't just pick an option and vote. today that punk is me i stop most sharpening at 8000 but my japanese chisels and any final surface smoothers get a lick at my natural stone which goes to eleven.
  9. yep, me too. it IS super fast to free hand the convex bevel. a very relaxed and effortless posture. no 'locking' your shoulders or wrists, etc.. pretty easy to catch the edge in a waterstone though.
  10. yeah, that haunch'll do a lot to prevent the rails (and the frame) from twisting. i'd make the effort..
  11. wimberleywoodworker - diamond plates is all paul sellers uses. well, a strop too i guess.. but then he's a crazy englishman that prefers a convex bevel, etc..
  12. i review mr. sellers' dvd and book series here.. in short, i really enjoyed it and i think it would be a great way for someone to start digging into working with hand tools. more than happy to answer any questions about it.
  13. that was a great movie. steaming boxes, the chair building, etc.. lot of fun. thank you.
  14. well, they came out quite nicely. thanks mike.
  15. how difficult is it to keep the 'table' parallel to the drum?
  16. very nice mike! i really like the feet. how'd you cut them?
  17. very nice! just started making making some and you've given me some great ideas, ty..
  18. i would be very proud to give that to my mom. i love the knobs you picked. congratulations!
  19. ha! what a bunch of enablers we have here. i've never used the ln #7 but i definitely dig my veritas #7. it may be my favorite of all my bevel up planes. can't shoot with it though which is a bummer.
  20. very nice marc. is that the same one he filmed that episode with? that episode may have been the first time i ever saw quilted bubinga and that table may have been one of the strongest initial 'hooks' for me into woodworking.. i'd be pretty stoked to own that..
  21. jpdorn


    ah! that looks perfect. thank you randy. i'll give that a shot tonight.
  22. jpdorn


    ok. yeah he does the same in his 'connections' dvd. a firm sharpie is a good description. he even breaks out an actual sharpie when he needs another color. i've seen a video of a japanese carpenter laying out joints on a beam with a sumisashi and it was much softer, more like a brush. he was labeling parts with kanji which would obviously require more of a brush like flexibility. just thought i'd give it a try. i'll post if i come up with anything. thanks guys.
  23. jpdorn


    i'm talking about the blunt (brush) end, not the beveled (knife) end. are you guys as well?