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About JimB1

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    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 06/06/1971

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    Household projects, Cabinets, Jigs, gift stuff

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  1. I have the Veritas crosscut carcass saw and the rip tenon saw. I like them both. They are a good bang for the buck and work great. I also have a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw so between these three I think I have most of the work I need back saws for covered. I don't feel a need to get the crosscut tenon saw or a rip carcass saw but it depends on your work and comfort with them as to how much use you get out of them. The rip tenon saw works well on deep, through tenons that the carcass saw may not be deep enough for but I have never needed a deep crosscut wider then the blade of the carcass.
  2. Anyone have a subscription that can give a review? I just bought a Woodriver no.6 (though it is back ordered until June ) and it comes with a 3 month subscription to his hand tool workshop. ( http://robcosman.memberlodge.com ) I was thinking about signing up for the hand tool school this year ( http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/about/ ) but free is free so I figured when I get the plane I can try out the hand tool workshop for a few months and run though all the essentials then towards the end of the free period re-evaluate my options. I am I guess an an early intermediate hobby
  3. Well, I just pulled the trigger on a new WoodRiver no.6 but it's back ordered so I won't get it until June apparently. Anyway, they had it for 15% off today so the price was $165 and I used a 10% off coupon which covered shipping plus another $6 off so about $159 total with shipping which seems like a really good price to me and all the reviews out there say they are very good with just a little tuning. I think for my usage, a no.6 should fill the need quite well. Thanks for the help -Jim
  4. I'll be there probably on Sat but possibly Sunday. Depends how the week is going... I'll have a better idea as it gets closer. -Jim
  5. I keep a lot of little pieces for making plugs and sometimes small inlays or repairs. Usually down to about 3"X 3" if it's a wood I use a lot of like maple, an interesting looking piece with flaming or quilting, or is something unusual like Purple Heart. -Jim
  6. I am using a bench I built myself but I like the Lie-Nielsen a lot. I have used it at their tool events several times now. Very stable and I love their twin vise. On the down side, it is pricey. There are a few others that are worth the look. Sjolberg gets generally good reviews and they make a range of sizes and price ranges. Lower end are like stuff you can get at harbor freight but their higher end stuff seems very nice. http://www.sjobergs.se/en/advantages/ We have an adjust-a-bench at my woodworking club that is nice and depending on what your particular injuries are may m
  7. I am using King water stones 800 - 4000 and the Veritas MkII honing guide. Seems to work pretty well. I am thinking about getting a leather strop. As long as you don't let your stuff get too dull a quick touch up in the higher grits every so often does the trick for me.
  8. 12 and 18 mainly here too in the light duty ones which work fine for medium sized stuff. I have some heavy duty Jet F clamps that have heavy steel bars that are 24" and 36" and no bending on those, they were cheaper then parallels but more expensive then the lighter duty ones that do bend. I think they were worth it when working on larger cabinets or glue ups that require more pressure. I am liking the parallels too though they are more expensive, I think they are worth the price. I just got 4 Jet parallels ( 2 each of 24" and 32") for $99 with free shipping on one of the holiday sales i
  9. Good idea! I just dropped him a line. -Jim
  10. Well, the #8 was actually a little easier to use to me. I liked the #7 but for me if I am going to spend that kind of cash, the extra $50 for the 8 is a no brainier. The sheer mass of it made it glide over rough areas that the #7 took a little more work to deal with. At least that was my impression and I have tried them back to back at three LN tool events over the last two years to verify that it wasn't my imagination. Believe me, I wish I had thought the opposite, it would save money. I am just not all that sure I'd be doing really long pieces or lots of jointing to justify that o
  11. Haven't posted for a while, been busy with work and life in general but I have still been in the shop and building things off and on. This year I will be signing up for at least two semesters at the handtoolschool.net and I pretty much have my kit setup for that (or I will after the Somerset Woodworking show ) The one thing I am lacking though is a jointer plane. I generally have been using my electric jointer and planer when I need to do those tasks. I do also use an old #5 Stanley for small pieces and the occasional touch up if I just need to clean up a slight twist or something. I ha
  12. That sounds like an oddly specific scenario to watch out for LOL....
  13. Well, I have some time to watch for something decent and be opportunistic in my purchases. I'll check around with some of the dealer's you named Shannon and keep an eye out for anything that looks useful on eBay or craigslist over the next month or two. Thanks for the info about panel vs hand saws. I never realized hand saw was an actual type. I just figured a long-ish saw without a back was a panel saw and they just came in different lengths and tooth count. I actually do have a smallish craftsman handsaw (15" or something) of the cheap $10 variety that does get occasional crosscut usage
  14. Thanks for the info. Does this look reasonable? I can't tell if it's rip or crosscut... http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SWEDISH-SANDVIK-277-DOUBLE-DRAGON-HAND-SAW-7T-8P-26-650-mm-W-SLEEVE-/151669713512?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2350382a68
  15. So I am thinking about starting the hand tool school at www.renaissancewoodworker.com maybe in the fall. He has a list of stuff needed at http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/getting-started-hand-tool-list/and I have a good chunk of the items but I just don't use panel saws so I don't have any. I can't afford to drop $500 on 2 saws this year so I have a choice. I can go for maybe $250 - $300 for the pair (rip and cc) and try and get something intermediate but decent like the Pax or Lynx, go cheap and get something like the Putsch saws at Woodcraft, and hold off on good stuff like Lie Nielsen o