JimB1

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About JimB1

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 06/06/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NJ
  • Woodworking Interests
    Household projects, Cabinets, Jigs, gift stuff

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  1. I have the Veritas crosscut carcass saw and the rip tenon saw. I like them both. They are a good bang for the buck and work great. I also have a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw so between these three I think I have most of the work I need back saws for covered. I don't feel a need to get the crosscut tenon saw or a rip carcass saw but it depends on your work and comfort with them as to how much use you get out of them. The rip tenon saw works well on deep, through tenons that the carcass saw may not be deep enough for but I have never needed a deep crosscut wider then the blade of the carcass. -Jim
  2. Anyone have a subscription that can give a review? I just bought a Woodriver no.6 (though it is back ordered until June ) and it comes with a 3 month subscription to his hand tool workshop. ( http://robcosman.memberlodge.com ) I was thinking about signing up for the hand tool school this year ( http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/about/ ) but free is free so I figured when I get the plane I can try out the hand tool workshop for a few months and run though all the essentials then towards the end of the free period re-evaluate my options. I am I guess an an early intermediate hobby woodworker so I'm not looking for "this is a chisel, this is a plane" type basics but more of technique and skill building ( and maybe a little bad habit breaking ) Any advice would be appreciated. thanks -Jim
  3. Well, I just pulled the trigger on a new WoodRiver no.6 but it's back ordered so I won't get it until June apparently. Anyway, they had it for 15% off today so the price was $165 and I used a 10% off coupon which covered shipping plus another $6 off so about $159 total with shipping which seems like a really good price to me and all the reviews out there say they are very good with just a little tuning. I think for my usage, a no.6 should fill the need quite well. Thanks for the help -Jim
  4. I'll be there probably on Sat but possibly Sunday. Depends how the week is going... I'll have a better idea as it gets closer. -Jim
  5. I keep a lot of little pieces for making plugs and sometimes small inlays or repairs. Usually down to about 3"X 3" if it's a wood I use a lot of like maple, an interesting looking piece with flaming or quilting, or is something unusual like Purple Heart. -Jim
  6. I am using a bench I built myself but I like the Lie-Nielsen a lot. I have used it at their tool events several times now. Very stable and I love their twin vise. On the down side, it is pricey. There are a few others that are worth the look. Sjolberg gets generally good reviews and they make a range of sizes and price ranges. Lower end are like stuff you can get at harbor freight but their higher end stuff seems very nice. http://www.sjobergs.se/en/advantages/ We have an adjust-a-bench at my woodworking club that is nice and depending on what your particular injuries are may make more sense then some others. http://www.adjustabench.com I am looking at theses Hofmann and Hammer ones at Highland. They are on sale right now and look pretty good to me. No first hand experience with them though. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/workbenchsale.aspx Just a few options... Good luck with the search. -Jim
  7. I am using King water stones 800 - 4000 and the Veritas MkII honing guide. Seems to work pretty well. I am thinking about getting a leather strop. As long as you don't let your stuff get too dull a quick touch up in the higher grits every so often does the trick for me.
  8. 12 and 18 mainly here too in the light duty ones which work fine for medium sized stuff. I have some heavy duty Jet F clamps that have heavy steel bars that are 24" and 36" and no bending on those, they were cheaper then parallels but more expensive then the lighter duty ones that do bend. I think they were worth it when working on larger cabinets or glue ups that require more pressure. I am liking the parallels too though they are more expensive, I think they are worth the price. I just got 4 Jet parallels ( 2 each of 24" and 32") for $99 with free shipping on one of the holiday sales in December and those are really nice. When I was making an island for the kitchen last year, I bought a couple of 48" Jorgensen parallels and those are pretty sweet if you do anything large. -Jim
  9. Good idea! I just dropped him a line. -Jim
  10. Well, the #8 was actually a little easier to use to me. I liked the #7 but for me if I am going to spend that kind of cash, the extra $50 for the 8 is a no brainier. The sheer mass of it made it glide over rough areas that the #7 took a little more work to deal with. At least that was my impression and I have tried them back to back at three LN tool events over the last two years to verify that it wasn't my imagination. Believe me, I wish I had thought the opposite, it would save money. I am just not all that sure I'd be doing really long pieces or lots of jointing to justify that outlay of cash but I have wasted money on lots of less useful things in the past so... -Jim
  11. Haven't posted for a while, been busy with work and life in general but I have still been in the shop and building things off and on. This year I will be signing up for at least two semesters at the handtoolschool.net and I pretty much have my kit setup for that (or I will after the Somerset Woodworking show ) The one thing I am lacking though is a jointer plane. I generally have been using my electric jointer and planer when I need to do those tasks. I do also use an old #5 Stanley for small pieces and the occasional touch up if I just need to clean up a slight twist or something. I have older Millers Falls #4 and Stanley #3 planes that I use for general smoothing tasks. I went to the Lie-Nielsen tool event in Brooklyn a few weeks ago (bought the large router plane and a couple of chisels ) and and was checking out their 7 1/2 bevel up plane but didn't really like it nearly as much as the #7 and #8, seemed too light in the hand to power though rough spots and clogged up a lot compared to the BD models (Though I did like the bevel up jack a lot) but they had recommended that if I was only planing 4' pieces or so that the #6 was a good choice if I didn't want to go whole hog up to the #7 or #8. I have also been thinking about the Veritas #6 and their bevel up jointer that I am hoping to try out at the Somerset show next month. I am wary of getting vintage pieces (even though what I am using now all are) just because the prices on vintage 7 and 8 jointers are near the prices for new ones from Wood River or Veritas and if there is an issue, I am stuck with it (though Lie-Nielsen and Clifton are more expensive in most cases) So I guess that is where I am on this, price is a consideration (tax time is coming ) so I need to stay around $300 so that puts me at: Find a good vintage one from someone reputable that doesn't need a lot of work $200+ Wood River #7 $300 Veritas #6 BD $250 Veritas #7 BU $300 Lie-Nielsen #6 $375 Bite the bullet and save up more to get the Lie-Nielsen #8 that may be a few more months. $475 (ouch!) So what would you do here? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks -Jim
  12. That sounds like an oddly specific scenario to watch out for LOL....
  13. Well, I have some time to watch for something decent and be opportunistic in my purchases. I'll check around with some of the dealer's you named Shannon and keep an eye out for anything that looks useful on eBay or craigslist over the next month or two. Thanks for the info about panel vs hand saws. I never realized hand saw was an actual type. I just figured a long-ish saw without a back was a panel saw and they just came in different lengths and tooth count. I actually do have a smallish craftsman handsaw (15" or something) of the cheap $10 variety that does get occasional crosscut usage for junky boards or quick cut offs of messed up ends if I just have one or two cuts to do but it's a really rough cut, it is fast though. I doubt it's something that can be sharpened well... Thanks for all the info. -Jim
  14. Thanks for the info. Does this look reasonable? I can't tell if it's rip or crosscut... http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SWEDISH-SANDVIK-277-DOUBLE-DRAGON-HAND-SAW-7T-8P-26-650-mm-W-SLEEVE-/151669713512?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2350382a68
  15. So I am thinking about starting the hand tool school at www.renaissancewoodworker.com maybe in the fall. He has a list of stuff needed at http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/getting-started-hand-tool-list/and I have a good chunk of the items but I just don't use panel saws so I don't have any. I can't afford to drop $500 on 2 saws this year so I have a choice. I can go for maybe $250 - $300 for the pair (rip and cc) and try and get something intermediate but decent like the Pax or Lynx, go cheap and get something like the Putsch saws at Woodcraft, and hold off on good stuff like Lie Nielsen or Wenzloff for now. Or try and find a reputable seller of used and get a good older set of saws that doesn't break the bank. Unfortunately I am not to experienced in the antique route and I don't want the hobby of fixing antique stuff. I do have a couple of usable antique hand planes that didn't require too much to get them up and running (Stanley Bailey 3 and 5) but I have a Miller's Falls (about a Stanley 4 sized) that I have never been happy with, so mixed experiences with antique stuff. If I go that route, I need to make sure I am buying from someone who is honest and can tell me if what I am getting is in good, working condition. So anyone used the Pax, Lynx or Putsch saws? Or have another good low to mid range price option? I am OK with sharpening as long as they are decent enough steel to do that. So good but dull out of the box is not a problem. Let me know what you think... Thanks -Jim PS. It's really funny but I made this exact post a couple of years ago when I was just building my tool collection up and still haven't gotten any panel saws. I went electric for the most part for my cutting needs but now I am actually thinking about the class so I'd need to go back to thinking hand tools. Funny how these things work out....