dtrust

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About dtrust

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    Apprentice Poster

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    Male
  • Location
    Pittsburgh PA
  • Woodworking Interests
    small items using exotics

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  1. dtrust

    Purple Heart

    From my experience Purpleheart is a hit or miss with a plane. I love the wood, but dread planing it because of what you just experienced. I'm guessing the board that tore out had some really wild grain orientation. It's even hard to put through a drum sander due to the oils in the wood causing the sandpaper to load up and put burn marks on the surface. If I ever get the money, I hear the helical cutterheads do a much better job with these kinds of things. I've never had a problem with any other wood going thru a planer.
  2. I don't have the answer for you, but I can tell you that you are not alone. I have the very same issue. Drives me nuts. It's hard to believe that we both received bad versions of the MKII, so it must be some sort of beginners mistake. I'll be watching this thread to see if someone can shed light on this.
  3. LOL I did the very same thing. I thought the glue-bots seemed to be a great idea, but in practice they fall short. I use those very same bottles from HF. Never a problem with them A fantastic deal.
  4. I have this, and thought it would be a great idea when I bought it. Had it for over a year now, and it's my least used tape measure. It does work well in that it sits nice and flat for measuring. The problem is that it has zero stiffness, and so it's impossible to extend it out to the far edge of a piece. Turns out to be more trouble than it's worth, at least IMHO. Sounds good in theory, but leaves much to be desired in practice. If anyone ever comes up with a tape measure that is rigid so you can extend it, then lays flat to measure, that would be killer. YMMV
  5. I tried Thompson's a few years ago and had the same experience as you, although mine did eventually dry enough to use after a week or two. I will never use it again. Two years ago i used Sikkens outdoor stain, and it went on very easily, absorbed into the wood in a few hours, and was completely usable the next day. Now two years later, the furniture looks as good as it did the first day. It sits out in the rain all summer, and the snow all winter (Pittsburgh PA). I will never use anything else for outdoor furniture that I don't want a varnish on. Now, I also made a picnic table years ago that I sealed with 4 coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane. (minwax I think). First coat thinned 50% with mineral spirits, next 3 coats full strength. 6 years later, it finally started to show some wear with the finish developing a few cracks. Sand it down a bit, and apply 2 more coats full strength and it looked perfect again. Again, sat out in the weather 100% of the time. My brother did something similar, but (1) he didn't wait for the thin coat of oil based stain he put on to completely dry (2) didn't thin the first coat of Spar Varnish, and (3) only put on 2 coats. At the end of the first summer it was already peeling off. As far as the Spar Urethane application goes, I believe it has a lot to do with having the patience to wait the required time for each coat to completely dry before putting on the second coat, and sanding lightly between coats. The picnic table I mentioned here took me 9 days to put the finish on completely, then I let it sit for three more days before taking it outside. Maybe overkill, but it worked for me. YMMV :-)
  6. All good answers. You are on the right track by adjusting the headstock first.. Being a machinist for many years, I can tell you there is a lot to consider when lining something up. Many variables, more than i will bore you with here. The quick answer is that for a wood lathe, considering the way it will most likely always be used, the alignment between the headstock and tailstock isn't as critical as turning metal. (only because you are doing most if not all dimensioning by hand.. As calblacksmith said, if you can get a long rod that is straight, and set it up true with the headstock then you can see if the tailstock is really out of alignment, and if the headstock is out of alignment with the bed. I'm at work now, and can't take long here, but there should be many internet sites that would help with understanding the alignment issues you aredescribing. sorry if this is too vague. :-) Don
  7. dtrust

    Shop Vac Filter

    The Dust Deputy http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=AXD000004&CatId={6EE79B16-EB63-43E7-8F30-1E06240A24A4} Marc reviewed it here. I'm sure the video is still around on this site. Attached to the shop vac, it rolls around with it. I have been using one for a few months now, and it is remarkable how little dust gets to the filter. I've emptied the 5 gallon bucket at least 10 times, and the filter still only has a thin coat of dust on it. Suction does not decrease at all (well, if you could measure tiny minute amounts of difference it would show up, but nothing of the slightest consequence). I Should have bought one years ago. An absolutely phenomenol device.
  8. Pat, I just happen to have a HF dust collector that I want to sell. Ironically, I went with the Rockler Wall mount just a week ago. Call me if you're interested. I'm in South Park, PA (left # in privatee message) Don
  9. Maybe you can get this out in California http://www.deftfinishes.com/trade/products/water-based-topcoats/waterborne-clear-wood-finish It's low odor, easy to use, hard as hell when dry, and perfectly clear.
  10. So glad I'm not the only one who has done that.
  11. One the ones i've made I round over the opening edges a bit. It kind of hides the fact that there is a gap. I also put a couple little very thin runners on the bottom of the drawers to help center them in the openings. This picture of one I made kinda shows that rounded over edge I'm talking about. http://dtrust.smugmug.com/Woodworking/WoodWorking/11671471_zDNcZq#!i=1113078961&k=sG9jVNS&lb=1&s=A
  12. As someone who had a kickback on a tablesaw a couple years ago, that first video is just freaky scary. The second one though, OMG! How that guy didn't cut off at least one of his fingers is a miracle. I have a two year old Grandson who is a walking disaster when it comes to getting hurt, but I think even he would have more sense than Mr. Circle cutter. Whew!
  13. 1. dovetail jig. never used. 2. belt sander - used to use it all the time, not for 10 years now
  14. I made a picnic table years ago using pine and sealed it with 6 coats of Helmsman Gloss Exterior Spar Varnish. (first coat thinned 50% with Mineral Spirits) This set on a concrete deck, so it wasn't sitting in dirt. Set out winter and summer uncovered for 7 years. After 7 years, I sanded it lightly and put another two coats of finish on it. When I sold that house I left it for the buyers, but it looked as good as the day I made it. Of course, if you don't like the glossy look it's not an option, but That spar varnish holds up wonderfully.
  15. Ok, i just gotta weigh in here about the tech who told you to lay it down flat for 24-48 hours to flatten it and then it would stay flat. I own a machine shop. That is the single most ridiculous thing I've heard in 40 years of hearing ridiculous things about metal. That guy just wanted you off the phone so he could go to lunch. LOL You definitely can flatten a metal bar by over-compensating in the opposite direction AND applying a little heat to it. It doesn't take 48 hours, though. It takes about 45 seconds, and it would be very tough to do with a cast iron fence that has reinforcing webs on the back surface. You would most likely end up with ripples down the length of it and introduce a twist if it didn't already have one. Grinding it flat is the way to go, but you kind of know that now. I completely understand you wanting consistency with the tooling, but you may find that mixing and matching the best of the various manufacturers is the better way to go. Oh, and we can all be pretty anal about specs. I know I am. I constantly have to tell myself that something made in my home shop doesn't have to be flat to .0001" like I have to deal with all day at work. It's a struggle I think Marc hit it dead-on. If the fence produces edges that are only out so little that it doesn't affect the end result, then you're good to go. Less stress, more wood.