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About JayWC

  • Birthday 10/17/1974

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  • Location
    Elgin, IL
  • Woodworking Interests
    All. I love trying new things.

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  1. I keep wishing Lee Valley would consider making these products in 1" dog hole size too.
  2. I made a clamp rack for parallel and pipe clamps. The rest of my clamps are on the floor joists of the mezzanine above.
  3. Two more pics. These show the hose storage and the rack for the downdraft insert.
  4. I know it's been a while, but I have further modified my set-up. I found having the outfeed table against the back of the saw was bad when I used a sled. So...I moved the table away, spun it 90 degrees and built an outfeed wing. I routed grooves in it for the sled runners and drilled holes so debris could drop to the floor. I can now rip 10' or 12' long boards and not worry about anything falling off the back. I've also added hooks under the table for my vacuum hoses.
  5. I know I need to drop the price on mine and I'm not trying to push it on nod, but yes the Craftsman is a good saw. I hope he can find one. It's funny you mention it...I do have the original manual and all the safety parts. Having said that I still think he should buy a SCMS and a router. Or maybe forget the SCMS. Get a good circ saw and router.
  6. I have to agree with Particle Board. The short answer for most grinders is no.
  7. I have a but having said that I think you'd do better to get a SCMS. Some have depth stops so you can make rabbets in multiple passes. Having said that, the radial arm saw can do cross cuts wider than miter saws, it can rip, it can drill holes, it can rout grooves, cut dados, and do planing too. Some people swear by radial arm saws (Check out Frank Howarth - "Frank Makes" - on YouTube) and some people swear at them.
  8. I keep having a problem with their fences. I'm on my third one. They are either warped or twisted. I figure I'm having bad luck.
  9. I put 3/4" foil faced insulation on my shop doors, but before I did that I put a sheet of plastic over the whole door. It cut down on air infiltration between the panels. You can cut the insulation on the table saw. Check to make sure you bevel the edges so the panels fit tight and allow clearance. As wdwerker said, you might have to add tension to the spring. Oil the springs first and run the door up and down all the way a couple times to work the oil in so the coils slide on themselves. Then add tension to the springs, but be very careful!
  10. I'm mostly a power tool guy, but I've been blending my shop with hand tools where they work just as well if not better. In this case I'd suggest you go with a Nobex miter saw. I recently purchased a Nobex Professional set-up. I have used it a bunch already both in the shop and in the field. It's great for a beginner, it's accurate from the start and it's quiet. It can do big and small cuts with no problem (no accidently sucking your hand into the blade by small pieces)...and it's leaps and bounds ahead of the miter box crap you can buy at big box stores. If you're looking to pony up a couple hundred bucks I'd seriously consider this saw versus an electric miter saw. For what it's worth I have had a 12" DeWalt compound miter saw for the last 20 years or so and it's been great.
  11. JayWC


    I know it's been a while and I've been the one to make the last few posts, but I'm going to update everyone. The repairs to the bench were successful, but this summer the end vise started working hard. I couldn't figure out why. I looked at the construction of the bench and realized they (Sjoberg) have a design flaw. There are four dowels in the spreaders that hold the top from sliding off the base. The dowels in the spreader restrain the top (due to cross grain orientation) from changes in width due to moisture. That caused the original failure to be cupping and a split in the top half only. This summer the vise working hard made me check the flatness too. When four dowels were in place it cupped and made the middle high. I took the back two dowels out, the top flattened out and the vise started working again. Maybe i had a bad top or just a perfect storm to create this condition, but I'd be careful with this design and probably not purchase a Sjoberg bench. I think this post brings it fill circle for me. Please let me know your thoughts.
  12. I'd make a simple backless stool. Don't give them arms or a back or anything to lean against. If the point of this is to teach a lesson why make them comfortable? In my house, my now 5 year old has never been on a time out chair. I just make her stand, hands at her sides, with her face towards (not against) the wall. I've found the attitude gives out around the same time her legs do.
  13. Everything I've gotten from them has been top notch. I had a problem with the first router table fence I got and they sent me a whole new one with inserts free. Initially they told me to keep the old one, but they decided they wanted it back to show it to their supplier. Their customer service is top notch too. If you have a question that staff cannot answer you can expect a phone call from Mark Sommerfeld himself.
  14. Or...I have a Jet 14" bandsaw 220V (can be wired to 110V) with riser block, Carter guides and 105" re-saw blades for sale.
  15. I think the tapping or magnet ideas work. I have a stud finder that does a deep scan to look through plaster. Picked up at Lowe's. Last comment...while 16 and 24 inch on center stud spacings are common, don't be surprised if you find 19.25 spacing in an old house. Many tape measures still reference this spacing with a diamond at that interval.