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Posts posted by JayWC

  1. I know it's been a while, but I have further modified my set-up.  I found having the outfeed table against the back of the saw was bad when I used a sled.  So...I moved the table away, spun it 90 degrees and built an outfeed wing.  I routed grooves in it for the sled runners and drilled holes so debris could drop to the floor.  I can now rip 10' or 12' long boards and not worry about anything falling off the back.  I've also added hooks under the table for my vacuum hoses.




  2. Any price is no deal if it's not going to be something you can fix, tune up, and use.  I'm still using the Craftsman like Jay posted about having for sale.  I bought it new in 1974, and have it tuned to cut perfectly square crosscuts-that's all I use it for.


    I'd say for any one you find, try to find a manual for it online, and if you can't find one, pass on it.  The good ones are adjustable to take out slop in the roller bearings, and have some method to true up the blade to be perfectly in plane with the motor travel, and square to the table.

    I know I need to drop the price on mine and I'm not trying to push it on nod, but yes the Craftsman is a good saw.  I hope he can find one.  It's funny you mention it...I do have the original manual and all the safety parts.


    Having said that I still think he should buy a SCMS and a router.  Or maybe forget the SCMS.  Get a good circ saw and router.

  3. I have a but having said that I think you'd do better to get a SCMS.  Some have depth stops so you can make rabbets in multiple passes.  Having said that, the radial arm saw can do cross cuts wider than miter saws, it can rip, it can drill holes, it can rout grooves, cut dados, and do planing too.  Some people swear by radial arm saws (Check out Frank Howarth - "Frank Makes" - on YouTube) and some people swear at them.

  4. I put 3/4" foil faced insulation on my shop doors, but before I did that I put a sheet of plastic over the whole door.  It cut down on air infiltration between the panels.  You can cut the insulation on the table saw.  Check to make sure you bevel the edges so the panels fit tight and allow clearance.  As wdwerker said, you might have to add tension to the spring.  Oil the springs first and run the door up and down all the way a couple times to work the oil in so the coils slide on themselves.  Then add tension to the springs, but be very careful!

  5. I'm mostly a power tool guy, but I've been blending my shop with hand tools where they work just as well if not better.  In this case I'd suggest you go with a Nobex miter saw. I recently purchased a Nobex Professional set-up.  I have used it a bunch already both in the shop and in the field.  It's great for a beginner, it's accurate from the start and it's quiet.  It can do big and small cuts with no problem (no accidently sucking your hand into the blade by small pieces)...and it's leaps and bounds ahead of the miter box crap you can buy at big box stores.  If you're looking to pony up a couple hundred bucks I'd seriously consider this saw versus an electric miter saw.  For what it's worth I have had a 12" DeWalt compound miter saw for the last 20 years or so and it's been great.

  6. I know it's been a while and I've been the one to make the last few posts, but I'm going to update everyone. The repairs to the bench were successful, but this summer the end vise started working hard. I couldn't figure out why. I looked at the construction of the bench and realized they (Sjoberg) have a design flaw. There are four dowels in the spreaders that hold the top from sliding off the base. The dowels in the spreader restrain the top (due to cross grain orientation) from changes in width due to moisture. That caused the original failure to be cupping and a split in the top half only. This summer the vise working hard made me check the flatness too. When four dowels were in place it cupped and made the middle high. I took the back two dowels out, the top flattened out and the vise started working again. Maybe i had a bad top or just a perfect storm to create this condition, but I'd be careful with this design and probably not purchase a Sjoberg bench. I think this post brings it fill circle for me. Please let me know your thoughts.

  7. I'd make a simple backless stool.  Don't give them arms or a back or anything to lean against.  If the point of this is to teach a lesson why make them comfortable?


    In my house, my now 5 year old has never been on a time out chair.  I just make her stand, hands at her sides, with her face towards (not against) the wall.  I've found the attitude gives out around the same time her legs do.  :D

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  8. Everything I've gotten from them has been top notch.  I had a problem with the first router table fence I got and they sent me a whole new one with inserts free.  Initially they told me to keep the old one, but they decided they wanted it back to show it to their supplier.  Their customer service is top notch too.  If you have a question that staff cannot answer you can expect a phone call from Mark Sommerfeld himself.

  9. I know rule number one in this forum is never tell someone to Google search for the answer, but I'm going to say that I was curious so I searched. I'd recommend you take a look there because there are a lot of sites dedicated to bow making. My reason for saying this is I'd hate for someone to give you guesswork answers in this forum and you wind up with an injured grandson.

  10. I was concerned about heat as well, and was going to recommend an inlet vent with baffles, and a fan to pull cool air in. The air would leave through the same outlet vent that the vacuum uses. Then I thought, "we've already got a motor that is pulling shop air in and past the motor. That's what the shop-vac does."

    Yes but if the sound baffles restrict the airflow out in an attempt to reduce sound that's where the problems start with overheating.

  11. Check music equipment sales or repair locations and see if they have old used sound foam sheets or foam from road cases for instruments . Check Craigslist for used" egg crate" foam mattress topper.

    The name used in the acoustical field is convoluted foam. It's open cell versus the closed cell construction of the mattress topper. That means it will absorb more sound as well as retain less heat.

  12. Unfortunately, the cutterhead goes into a large pile of things that need to wait until i have some free time. But definitely a priority in the new year. I will film the installation and setup and I can definitely give it a test run. Maybe run some boards with the current setup first and then compare the results after.

    Not to beat a dead horse, but I'm tossing out my request for a decibel comparison again please.

  13. I like the pattern and the little blocks inside the large blocks. It looks like you did a nice job with few tools. My only concern with your board is the porosity of the wood you found. Cutting boards should be tight closed grain species. If he doesn't use it for cutting, meaning for decoration only, it should be fine. I'm only sayng it to avoid having someone get sick.

    Also, welcome to the forum. I hope this is the first of many postings by you.

  14. I have a simple way to adjust planer knives using a board and no jigs. Works great and I can change all 4 in less than 30 mins. If interested, message me your email and I will send it to you.

    Why not just post it here? The purpose of the forum is to be a place where we help each other by posting our experiences and ideas.