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Everything posted by JayWC

  1. I have a set of all 4 of these plus one extra .05 (black) pencil that I purchased when I was in architecture school in 1994. They all still work. The .05 travels with me in my soft briefcase and still functions today as well as when I first bought it. Most of the workings in these pencils is metal and made by a company that's been known for drafting equipment for decades. I think that's why.
  2. JayWC

    Dust Deputy

    Guys...you really couldn't see that one coming? The thing is called "DUST" Deputy. Not "Long-curls-of-shaven-wood" Deputy. The relative size of the wood to the diameter of the pipe (along with CFM and velocity) is the problem. I think that if you slowed down your air flow to the point where you're moving just enough air to carry the chips through the hose (or just used a Neanderthol tool like a broom and dust pan) it would work better. The other option is to vacuum more slowly so you're letting individual curls go through the separator where they can drop out of the airstream versus large clumps of curls that tend to ride the airflow. Or...to get back to my first thought, go with a system that has larger diameter piping.
  3. I've used General Finishes Gel Stains on a commission I had recently for 5 dressers each in a different color. If I remember right there are 12 or 14 colors available. Gel stains do somewhat obscure the grain (I used them on poplar so I wanted to build color in three coats of stain over variegated wood tones), but that will be a benefit on your through sanded edges. Their stain also has some poly in it so not only are you staining, you're also protecting. When you're done you can finish with a clear coat. You don't need to use their Gel Coat for the final finish like they say. I used Arm-r-Seal because I already had it and had no problems.
  4. Hey TRB - by show us more do you mean photos of this project? If you want to see more, click on the highlighted word "armoire" in my original post. It should take you to my facebook page.
  5. I understand what he's saying Russ. It's definitely better than pine because the grain is more even whereas pine has the hard/soft spots of early and late growth rings. I also agree with what you're saying, but...I think there is a middle ground between the two of you. It's relative.
  6. I was thinking gel stain when I saw your question to him Paul.
  7. I agree with higtron...sanding is not the option in this case. You have to let light of some kind even it out. Just watch out for going too far...
  8. After building 5 dressers/hutches for resident rooms and a riser block as a test modification to raise the TV for one of the rooms, I was asked to build an armoire for another room in the facility. It's red oak with Client selected stain and hardware. They wanted solid wood construction (plywood back, side panels and drawer carcasses were the exceptions) and ball bearing drawer slides. They're thinking long term furniture. I only wish they had selected another wood species...I proposed several including butternut. It sounds like they have three more projects up and coming. I know the photos in place aren't great as I used my phone camera, but I'll replace them when I go back to measure the next project. If you want to see more images, please click on the embedded hyperlinks. Let me know your thoughts please! Thanks!
  9. I think the most complicated grammar rule I had to learn was...Ahem... Each, every, either, neither and compounds of -body, -one and -thing all take first person singular. I've noticed a lot of people break this rule. It has been especially smeared due to people being overly careful to avoid breaking gender equality rules. For example I've heard, "Someone needs to pick-up their coat from the floor and hang it up." It should be, "Someone needs to pick-up his coat..." or "Someone needs to pick up her coat..." People seem afraid to pick a pronoun that reflects gender ie his or her. Some people write "his/her" and that's okay in text, but in the spoken form it should be one or the other.
  10. I have three suggestions to do for your doors... Weatherstrip, weatherstrip, weatherstrip. Just kidding that those are the only options, but they are a start. In my opinion you have a few things to look at here. 1. If you're willing to look at weather stripping, I highly recommend products from Conservation Technology. Their website looks like crap, but their products are awesome. I found them after looking at some work by Tom Silva on This Old House. I've installed door jam/head weatherstripping and door sweeps at my house and for customers. I particularly like the door sweep because it fits in a groove in the door bottom, is draft free and it is adjustable to your threshold. Additionally it has nice long fins that are supple so they won't break off right away like some of the hard plastic 1/4" long stuff you can find at BORG. Even if you make new doors, I'd recommend putting these weatherseals on. These buggers have immediate payback...maybe even less than a month in the northern states. 2. If you're looking to build a new door because you're looking for a cool project, also consider doing a single 36"-42" door with sidelights to fill the opening. The benefits are many including having a new design, simplifying weatherstripping to one opening, getting rid of a leaky astragal, cutting down on hardware cost, letting in additional light, etc. 3. On the architectural side, I have a question as to the overall layout and configuration of your vestibule. Is the vestibule heated? If not, you can actually have a "cooler" between the inside and outside doors where cold night temps create a box of cold air that radiates into the house all day. By the time the temperature starts to come up to exterior day time temps the next night cools it again. If the space isn't heated you might find that it is routinely colder than the outside temps. That is why storm doors are typically as close as practical to the inside door. Building science tells us that air gaps of 1" or less actually have insulating value. When you get over that size convection (thereby heat exchange) starts to occur. 4. If you want the look of wood and a decent r-value door, consider Therma Tru. I've personally installed their fiberglass door product. It's top end stuff. I might think of more, but this is my gut reaction. I hope this helps!
  11. I prefer solid edge banding. I used an Eagle America style B set for several hundred feet of edge banding for a file storage project. I even used it to add a larger piece of solid wood on the back edge of the sides in which I cut a rabbet to align the parts of the carcasses when doing the assembly. Because it has a tongue and groove detail to it, it had some structural integrity. In the end, I'd highly recommend using this set, but to answer your question again...go with solid banding for a lot of reasons...
  12. Looks like a great shop. Don't forget to post it on TheWoodWhisperer as well. Marc will post it there and a link to it on Facebook so you can share with your friends too. I have one opinion I'd like to offer...keep your dad's jointer/saw. I mean...replace it with a newer nicer model to support your improving skills, but keep the unit somewhere in your shop as a reminder. If in the future you have to get rid of it for the sake of space, post photos of it in the shop somewhere. To me, that's one of your anchors to hold on to.
  13. I've used a product called Swell & Lock on Windsor chairs I inherited from a family member who was 5' tall and 5' wide. Her weight popped some joints apart and loosened others. I put the stuff on and it worked. It swells the fibers then hardens them which tightens the fit of the tenon in the mortise. Someone had even tried to re-glue the joints with yellow glue and, after I scraped the heavy stuff off, it worked on those joints too.
  14. Carter Bandsaw Products sells them and other repair parts. They're really easy to talk to on the phone. When you tell them what saw you have they actually take time to look up the manual online and give you parts that work. http://www.carterproducts.com
  15. I'm transitioning my shop to a blended shop, but the leftover Normite in me makes me think that this could have been knocked out on the bandsaw and finished with a card scraper in about 1/4 the time to make two of these...
  16. JayWC

    Shoulder Plane Cost

    You can get a Stanley #92 for around $90. I have one and it works just fine. Having said that, I had to go through the stock of the store to find one that was milled correctly. The Rockler store I went to sent what I called rejects back for exchange too because they were that bad. Still, I'd recommend it for typical use, decent price and decent ancestry.
  17. I know you didn't ask for the input on the legs as much as the wood joint; however, I have concerns about the flat strap leg design. Unless it's of a sufficient gauge I think the open frame design has the potential to rack and wiggle (think of a box open on both ends). It would have little resistance to lateral forces. Having said that, I much prefer the aesthetic over the pipe leg design. Maybe you can add some diagonals (crossing rods or something) or a strap in the flat plane. It would also add some embellishment to the design that has a structural benefit.
  18. I don't know why, but the plastic wrap/receptacle combination seems like a fire hazard to me...
  19. It's cool and all, but it seems like such a waste of wood!