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Posts posted by bade

  1. One of my concerns with using MDF, the lag screws for my vise will not last. I plan on using the bench for both hand and power tools, and there will be dog holes.

    I have to say that I'm running in to this problem right now. MDF is easy to cut and get a flat surface, but when drilling in to the material it is questionable.

    My 7" inch Jorgensen vice pulls away from the face of my bench when I have material clamped using bench dogs. If you plan to make wooden jaws for your vice

    with dog holes that you line up with dog holes on your bench, then in my experience plan to see your vice pull away from your bench face when clamping material

    that runs horizontal (i.e. parallel to the bench top).

    I can't say I know exactly what is to blame here, maybe I just built a poor bench, but I have a bench with a 1.5" MDF top and a vice attached with lag screws and there is

    a noticeable amount of "give" away from the bench face when applying clamping load. Either my vice mounting technique was bad, or MDF just doesn't hold a lag screw

    very well. Either way if I built it over again it would be without MDF, FWIW.

  2. Also, any thoughts about running the lines behind the drywall vs. over the dry wall (with flexible conduit)?

    My concern with running behind is obviously the extra time and cost. But my concern with over the drywall is having conduit in the way of shelving, or any other items I plan to get mounted on the walls (like a clamp rack I plan on building soon).


  3. The way I did it was to put one outlet above counter height every 4 feet and then another outlet directly below that at normal hight.

    Also you may want to check code for GFI. Mine says I can only put one slave on each master. So, I made the counter height outlet the master and the slave was always right below it.

    One more thing, the two shops I did I stuck a couple of outlets outside the shop. This was in cast the weather was ever nice I could do some sanding or other stuff outside. It seemed like a good idea. So far the only thing I've ever used those outlets for however was for shooting primer and paint with an electric (Wagner style) paint gun. (I think Marc has a video on this topic) You may want to consider it if you have the chance.

    Thanks for the suggestion on counter height. Looks like the 4' rule is a popular solution as well.

    The outside of my house only has a single outlet on the back porch, and I have an electric leaf blower, so in order to run it in the front I either have to go through a window or through the garage, both a PITA. So I actually have a 2nd project planned to add some power outdoors as well for leaf blowing, and for any other random uses for outdoor power (like xmas lights). Plus my driveway is sloped so unfortunately I won't get to do any fair weather outdoor woodworking, but at least I can open the garage door and get a nice breeze :-)


  4. On the walls I will have 120 every 4' and they will be double outlets....Then every 8' I am placing 240 single outlets on the walls. On the ceiling I will have 120 single outlets for lights and for any possible other electrical needs. There will be 2 rows 4' apart and spaced every 4' down the length of the shop.

    Brilliant idea. I'm planning to add an additional 3 120s on the ceiling to give me 4 total. "Think vertically!" as Marc once said. Thanks for this idea.

    Your plan sounds good and going with12/2 for the 120 and using 10/2 for the 240 will give you the confidence that the wiring isn't being overloaded and heating up on you. While it sounds like I'm telling you what I'm going to do, our shops are about the same size. I would also plan for power where the car will be parked so when the car is out of the shop you can utilize the extra space without power concerns. Also plan on putting in GFIC to help protect you as well. Not sure if this helps.

    I'll be sure to get 12/2 for the 120 and 10/2 for the 240. And yes this helps!

  5. Brandon, This is what I can tell you. Put in the biggest highest amp sub panel in your garage that code will allow and you can afford. This may cost more up front but additions / changes down the road will be way less expensive. I think you are on the right track as far as outlet locations. For the price difference in a shop on all of your 110 outlets I would only use 20amp outlets yes the 12/2 cost a little more and isn't as easy to work with but you won’t ever have to wonder when you plug any of your tools in. As far s the 220's like Marc talked out in one of his shop video's place the ones for dedicated items like the DC, AC, Air Comp. but then I would just do some general area ones that you may plug and play with some 220 tools when and if you need them. I just got done wiring my shop and I did just what I described I put some 220's in key locations and then just put a few on a couple of walls. Not sure if this helps.



    If you look close enough in the 3rd picture of the back wall, I actually already have a sub-panel in my garage in between the two cabinets. It is fed off of a 60A breaker from my main panel. The problem is my sub-panel runs almost everything in the house, except for my 2 AC units which are run off the main panel.

    I had a guy out Wednesday, and he recommended that for the extra outlets to run directly off of the main panel, and punch through the wall of the right side of the garage. He said running from the sub-panel might cause lighting "droop" in the house when I switch on the larger power tools. And he mentioned it to be a lot more work. My concern of running off the main panel though is exactly what you mentioned about the ease of having a dedicated sub-panel. If I ever need to modify or upgrade I won't have a sub-panel to work from. Should I have another sub-panel installed in the garage for this work?


  6. Howdy all,

    I'm in the middle of getting quotes to add more power to my shop, and I'm looking for any advice on what to look out for, tips, or things to consider.

    I'm currently in a 20'x20' two car garage (one side of which is currently consumed by the biggest waste of space, my wife's car wink.gif), and sadly I only have 3 110V outlets in the whole space! I'm planning on filling up the shop with larger power tools in the next year or so, and with that comes the need for 220V.

    I know a lot of you have some great experience with building shops, or have had work like this done before, or just know what you like and dislike about your power setup. So I'm just looking for any thoughts on the subject. I'm particularly interested in recommended placement of the 220V outlets, and thoughts about outlets on the ceiling vs. the wall, and at what height on the walls.

    My list of tools/motors that I could ever foresee being in this space include:


    1) Table saw - 13A

    2) Dust Collector - ~8-10A

    3) Jointer/Planer combo - 12.5A

    4) Air compressor 60gal - ~10A

    5) Mini-split AC unit - ~15-20A


    1) Air filtration unit - 10A

    2) Miter saw - 15A

    3) Drill press - 9A

    4) Variety of hand held power tools

    My current idea is to have the 220V outlets for the air compressor and DC near each other in the same front corner of the shop near the miter saw, and the TS outlet either on the left wall or the back wall.

    I've attached some pics with some cheesy mock ups (don't get too caught up in the realismtongue.gif) to include proposed locations of the TS and filtration unit. The red dots are the proposed outlet locations. I need to get my filtration unit hung on the ceiling so I have a proposed pic of that location as well. If ever I get the jointer/planer or the AC unit, that will go on the right side of the garage which is out of view, so I plan to have two more 220V outlets put in there.

    So I'd love to hear your thoughts, and any advice or precautions you have for the work I'm about to have done.


  7. I just joined the forum, so this reply is a bit late, but I wanted to mention that the Woodcraft store in Austin gives classes. Check out this link: Austin Woodcraft Classes (If the link doesn't work then just search for Austin Woodcraft and go to their "Classes" link.

    ACC also offers Woodworking classes under their "Building Construction Technology Department". But it looks like you have to be on a degree/certificate plan and take credit hours to take these classes: ACC 2011 Woodworking Classes (Again if the link doesn't work go to ACC's website and search for the WDWK classes under their Building Construction Technology Department.)

    I didn't see any informal classes offered by UT or ACC...

    I haven't taken any of the Woodcraft or ACC classes so I can't add any more info on how good they are.

    Did you end up finding/taking classes anywhere?