jsiard

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About jsiard

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    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 02/07/1963

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    Male
  • Location
    Fairport, NY
  • Woodworking Interests
    all periods and styles

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  1. Not following the manufacturers recomendations usually voids the warrenty. Regardless if I'm buying new or used I'd rather spend a couple extra bucks on some wire and a breaker, sure beats replacing the unit and dealing with the down time. In most cases it takes less time to do it right the first time, cutting corners has always come back to bite me in one way or another.
  2. Jimmy makes a good point, I have five seperate brands of cordless tools that aren't interchangable. I think in the future I'll try to purchase around a similar system rather than a tool review or price. I love the li battery and charging system with the Makita but if I have 5 ni cad batteries that I could use with every cordless tool I own I wouldn't care how long it takes to recharge. The thing that really sucks about getting older is when you realize that you aren't smarter than a 5th grader!
  3. I don't have the information you are looking for but I have had the Makita BTD142HW for about 6 years and love it. It's more or less a daily user, everything from furniture to building and everything in between, been dropped and kicked and is still going strong. 15 min. charge time is great, it's light and has plenty of power and the built in led is handy. A quick google search listed Milwaukee, Hitachi, Makita, Dewalt and Bosch as top picks, I would assume that any one of them would be a good choice.
  4. I know how excited you are to put your new toy to work however this is that time of year with the holidays looming, unpredictable winter weather and the dreaded flu season when things don't always happen with the expediency we would like. Having dealt with Grizzly customer service in the past I have no doubt your issues will be addressed to your satisfaction. I have to agree with Barry on a few points though, the fence is not a big deal other than the appearance. As long as it is parallel to the bed and not twisted, the cupping will have no effect on the jointing operation. The bed could be an issue depending on where the cup is located but as long as it is confined to the infeed and closer to the center of the table 0.015 will not effect the operation either. The outfeed table is critical but 0.015 would be hard detect. The dish or cup in the bed would also not effect the ability to bring the tables into coplaner which is what you are really doing, as long as the cup is located in the center and/or not at either end. That said you paid for a new piece of equipment and the customer is always right. Again, I'm sure that the people at Grizzly will do everything they can to make you a satisfied customer, hopefully sooner rather than later. Good Luck and Happy Holidays! Jim
  5. I don't want to hijack this thread but please exercise a little caution and don't poor any left over finish down the drain. Aside from wreaking havoc with your plumbing system its environmentally irresponsible. In NYS oil based and water based finishes are classified as hazardous waste and need to be treated as such. In my community they have amnesty days where paints, stains, motor oil, pesticides and such can be turned in at no cost to the homeowner which is the option I choose when possible. If I have a small amount left over I will mix it with speedy dri, calcined clay or saw dust and let it dry then dispose of it in the trash, as long as the material is in a solid state this is permissible. When cleaning oil based finishes I'll let the mineral spirits rest in a bucket until the solids drop out and pour the clear back into the can for reuse. Not looking to lecture just help the planet we inhabit.
  6. I have two sleds made out of 1/2" MDF that see a fair share of use, they are going on three years and are as true as the day they were built. I pay about $32 for a sheet of 1/2" and $37 for 3/4", its cheap and stable. If I need to make it zero clearance I use a skin of 1/4" MDF.
  7. A back log of 3 projects is great but what about when those jobs are finished? Is there a constant flow of business, do you go through lulls or turn work away because you are back logged? Answer those questions and you've answered your own. If you're in 180 sq. ft. now moving into 650 sq. ft. would seem like a ballroom I would think finding a layout for you're equipment and projects would be doable. I would at least work my lease in one year increments so if I need more space I'm not saddled with a long term lease or outrageous penelties if I need to break it. If it were me I would go with the smaller space with a lease caveat, start small and work up. I've seen many guys sink themselves getting involved with to much space, to many people or leasing/purchasing equipment in the hopes of work finding them. I can deal with being smaller and paying my bills than the stress of being too big and struggling to get by.
  8. One of the most important issues that needs to be considered along with CFM is Duty Cycle. If you are looking to run pneumatic sanders or conventional spray applications duty cycle is critical. Most oil compressors have longer duty cycles but not all.
  9. As long as there is room in the panel I would run a 220 line. I hate extension cords!
  10. I have Bessey's and Jorgensen Cabinet Master's and prefer the Jorgy's. I haven't used the Jets but have heard both good and bad things about them. If I were starting from scratch I would get one of each and make my decission based on what I found worked for me. That said I also prefer Jacobsen mowers to Toros, either its an orange thing or I haven't gotten over the Swedish bikini team
  11. Nate makes some great points, many of us have been frustrated by what can be a steep leaning curve when it comes to not just hand planes but hand tools in general. IMO sharpening is by far the most important skill a woodworker can aquire when it comes to both hand and power tools, it also causes the most frustration when learing to master planes, chisels, hand saws, etc. I would agree that a low angle block, smoother and shoulder plane is a great place to start, these are by far the ones I reach for the most, as well as the Stanley 102 that resides in my apron.
  12. I've been using 180 grit paper on glass since I started with waterstones, i've been tempted to go with a flattening stone but don't really see the need to spend that money when I'm getting the desired results with my current method.
  13. Hey Tim, If you've read the entire 4 pages of this thread you know there are vastly different points of view on this topic. I'm a golf course superintendent by day which means I spend at least 10 hours a day on my feet in season which isn't so bad when I'm moving around on grass. My boots of choice are Asolo and have been for over 12 years, I go through two pairs a season. There is no question that when your feet are happy the rest of the body, aging as it is, follows. However when I get home and into the shop the boots come off and the crocs go on. The boots are great outside or when I'm moving around but in the shop on concrete I end up with a very sore back. As soon as I went to crocs I can spend 10 hours in the shop and am right as rain at the end of the day. The added bonus is that they sell for $19.00 at a store in town and I don't need any pricey orthodics!
  14. It might help if you posted a picture, it's a little difficult to envision what you are describing. That said, if it looks like what I am picturing you could use either T-nuts, nuts and washers or just tap the pressure bar. Could substitute shim stock for wooden wedges?
  15. I've had my milwaukee 7.25" for over 20 years, had to replace the cord about 5 years ago but other than that no issues. It's seen plenty of use and abuse (not intentional) and is still going strong. Funny thing is I didn't really like it when I bought it but needed it and couldn't pass up the deal, 40% off store closing. I'd buy it again in a heartbeat maybe go with the left blade model instead.