sbarton22

Members
  • Content Count

    482
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

27 Neutral

About sbarton22

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kansas City
  • Woodworking Interests
    contemporary design ideas

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. You can do it with a thicker bowl, it just might feel clunky. The goal of many pierced vessels is to create a lace-like feel. Now, with that said, many sculptural artists start with a thicker wall so they can carve away. Look at the work of William Hunter. You have to start with a thick wall to pull that off. So, ultimately, it just depends on what your final product is and what your design calls for. Post pics.
  2. I use the Beall system on my turnings. I usually apply a couple of coats of a tung finish or a danish oil. Once cured, I use the Beall. This process pops the grain and puts a nice finish on the piece.
  3. I was planning on usable. In fact, I was concerned the epoxy would be more dense than the wood and the wood might wear quicker and leave a ridge. You don't happen to have a photo laying around of how it fails do you?
  4. HHH-- Color in the epoxy will be the inlay. I don't plan on gluing in another material...just the epoxy. Are you suggesting that the epoxy will chip and crack? Would a casting resin be better? WTN-- I don't want the lacquer on the surface at all, just in the relief area. If I spray it, I want to sand off the surface to remove the lacquer. Another way to ask this might be how can I seal the relief area, but not the surface? Could I apply a mineral oil and beeswax mixture to the surface and then spray some lacquer? Maybe experimenting is the best plan? Maybe this is just a dumb idea.
  5. I'm looking to spruce up a cutting board using this technique: http://www.woodsmith.com/files/issues/173/adding-an-epoxy-inlay.pdf My question is this. I finish all of my cutting boards with mineral oil and beeswax. According to this article, they suggest spraying a coat of lacquer to seal the wood before applying the epoxy. As I don't want that epoxy on the surface of the cutting board, is it easy to sand through or will it absorb fairly deeply into the wood? I'm not that familiar with sprayed lacquer, so I don't really know its tendencies. Thank is advance! scott
  6. Oh man, I feel your pain. I had such a bad experience with the last event I did in September, that I just walked away for the year so I could regroup. I was set in a space with all of the vendors on the outside of a loop, except me. That's no big deal, but the rest of the inside of the loop was all kids making things and selling them. The kid next to me was "drawing" in glue, spreading glitter on it, and charging $5. Her dad was making minions (from the cartoon) out of coke cans and selling those. Yeah, no sticker shock going from that stuff to what I was asking. I've been pretty lucky, because usually, in that condition, my work is alone on one side of the spectrum and I stand out. I almost feel like sometimes I get sales because people don't want to feel like they've wasted their time. That particular even was, by far, my best event, but it took two days of screaming kids and coke can construction paper to get there. I had a bunch of people ask me to sell at their event. I am finding that there is no barrier of entry for the organizers. In my area, the top art shows are BIG money makers for organizers and the shops of the areas that host them. So, it feels like everyone wants in on that game. Those big shows cost $300-$600 a day, so the small timers like me need the cheaper shows to get off the ground. Those cheaper shows just don't know what they are doing. For me, what is worse is that there are very few shows between that super expensive art show and the crap shoot that is everything else. Or, I just can't find them yet.
  7. I like the suggestion. I'll ad it to the list.
  8. Ok, I'm getting ready to launch my biggest project to date. I'm building a built-in bookcase and window seat. I'm building it in a room that only has finished drywall. No floor covering. No base boards. No window trim. At this point, I'm in the conceptual design phase. I think I have the big idea.I and shooting for a very modern bookcase with fixed shelves with some of the bays enclosed with a door made of slats (versus a solid panel). The case cradles a "floating box" that is the window seat. The whole thing is slightly angled. So, the left side of the window seat is about 18" deep and the right side is about 24". The bookcase varies from 12" to about 18". The case is going to be walnut. The box will be painted MDF. And finally, the interior of the box will be some kind of lighter color plank, possibly a tongue and groove with a small chamfer to enhance the "plankness". I was also considering some salvaged wood, but I have yet to source that, so I don't want to commit to it. The kick space and the filler at the ceiling will probably painted black or stain walnut super dark to create a reveal and hide the imperfections of the existing space. I'm showing this rough model to get more eyes on it as a sanity check. Does anyone see any major constructability issues?. I'm not sure if I need a permit for this. I think I will have to relocate one, if not two outlets, so there may be a little drama there. The box will be framed by 2x4's I plan on bolting to the wall's 2xs. This may be a dumb question, but would I have to remove the drywall or can I bolt through it? I feel like surface area will be great enough that it shouldn't crush the drywall, but I'm not sure. Other than those couple of items, I think this is pretty straight forward stuff. Yes, I need to work out the details, but I think conceptually, this should work. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
  9. So, did you build it like a piece of furniture that is mounted in place or did you build it in place. I think I don't understand this part of the problem yet. I get that you could do both, but I don't think I know what the "Best method" is. For example, are these things usually fabricated off site, dropped into place, and trimmed out for ease and speed or are they done that way so that if the next owner of the house decides to rip it out it is easy. Perhaps that is not even a consideration? Is building in place a pain more or less complicated? I'm just thinking in general. I know with my intended design, there are going to be some pieces that I will need to install in place. Just trying to wrap my head around the whole thing...
  10. Another thought/ question... does built-in casework need a back? Or, should built-ins be design to be free standing objects? And the book idea is a great one. Just ordered a couple of book on the matter.
  11. that boiled it down to the obvious! The front may have a more complicated design, but i think I can account for that if everything else works together.
  12. I have a couple of quick questions. I am preparing to build some full height bookcases + window seat. The final look I am going for is a dark walnut. The scale of the project is a little less than an average kitchen amount of volume of casework. (let’s say 15’ or so x 7’ tall x 15” deep max) So, with that little bit of background, how would look to construct it? Would you use walnut for everything? If so, how do you account for movement on that large of a project? OR Would you use walnut veneered plywood and smaller stock walnut for the edges? (here, I am thinking plywood has less movement, but I am afraid of sanding through the veneer) OR Is it best to build it out of cabinet grade plywood and select something like poplar and stain the whole deal? (here, I am thinking more construction grade assembly) My heart would have me do it all out of walnut. But I don’t know if that is the best construction method for the scale of the work. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!