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derekcohen last won the day on January 19

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About derekcohen

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Location
    Perth, Australia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building furniture predominantly with handtools

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  1. derekcohen

    Micro bevel on chisels?

    For reproducibility, I create a hollow grind ... ... free hand hone directly on the hollow. The hollow acts as a jig. Quick. Sharp. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. derekcohen

    Veritas Paring Chisels Coming Soon?

    They are cranked neck chisels, but better than any others I have used. Absolutely flat. There's also an interesting twist to their design, but Rob may wish to describe this. Regards from Perth Derek
  3. derekcohen

    That corner of the shop ...

    The music gives me more hp! Old iPhone 5 feeding a Rotel amp into Tannoy speakers. Internet radio gets jazz from the USA, Canada, UK and Oz. Or my favourite MP3s. Regards from Perth Derek
  4. derekcohen

    That corner of the shop ...

    There is always a corner of the shop which becomes a bit of a dumping ground and where things pile up. This is the area where my sharpening stuff begins, and then deteriorates as it merges with a "cabinet" that holds supplies and a wall of screws and stuff. An old stereo hanging on the wall - a dust trap. I really hates this area. What follows is not fine furniture building! A friend gave me a bunch of veneered MDF boards ... This is what emerged after the past weekend ... Space for an old amplifier. And more storage ... That looks better ... Regards from Perth Derek
  5. derekcohen

    Opinions on the Nova Saturn DVR Lathe with Stand?

    Hi Mark So far I have only had time to turn spindles/legs. I love the power, smoothness and silence. Still getting used to the controls and speed changes. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. derekcohen

    Coffee table for my nephew

    The brass plaque was professionally inscribed for me. I recessed and epoxied this into the inside face of the drawer side (as one might do a hinge mortice). Regards from Perth Derek
  7. derekcohen

    Coffee table for my nephew

    My deepest thanks for all the kind words to all, especially those who offered opinions since one of the reasons I post to to create discussion. There are just so many ways to do joinery, and so many takes on design. We all benefit from the diversity. This has been an interesting build (they have to be interesting, otherwise why do it?). A challenging design to reproduce with hand tools. The first time I had attempted mitred dovetails. That was interesting. It came together very satisfactorily in the end. I am in awe of the top - that Jarrah is simply stunning ... far more so in real life where you can see the chatoyance and fiddleback. A couple of better photos (perspective is everything) ...Thanks again.Regards from PerthDerek
  8. derekcohen

    Coffee table for my nephew

    You can see some on my website, at least some of the builds I posted in recent years. Here are a couple: Kist (Fiddleback Marri and Jarrah) .. ... with a secret drawer ... Hand crafted copy of Hans Wegner's "The Chair": This won the Popular Woodworking Excellence Award for 2016. "Lingerie Chest" in Makore (carcase) and Figured Jarrah (drawers). This has curved sides and bow-front drawers (i.e. a contemporary "Bombe" build): The drawers are all compound angles ... The top has a secret mirror .. and the top drawer has jewellery trays and a secret lock .. This won Best of Show at the Perth Wood Show in 2016. A sofa table in Hard Maple (carcase) .. .. and WA Sheoak top ... This won again in 2017. It also has a secret drawer And I recently posted on this bow fronted Apothecary Chest in Black Walnut ... .. with curved drawers ... Regards from Perth Derek
  9. derekcohen

    Roubo Questions

    A few points: 1. Firstly, BC are a highly reputable company with top level components. There are many cheap look-a-likes that may be had for pennies in the dollar, but their questionable quality and limited quality assurance are quickly evident. Lie Nielsen and Award hand planes may look the same, and do a similar task, but we know that they are very different in ays that count. 2. Several years ago I was in the process of designing and building my Roubo-style bench. I was considering building my own end vise. My good friend, Chris Vesper, said he had purchased a BC end vise. I was surprised, as Chris is a top notch machinist and, indeed, one of the premier toolmakers we have. He said to me that he could not produce the vise at the quality level BC build it. I bought one (and it is fantastic, and well-used). 3. For most, the ideal width of a bench is 22". This allows one to work across it .... unless you are a gorilla, and in which case I shall not argue with you 4. The Moxon vise was a game-changer. I built a twin screw into the front of a bench about 20 years ago for dovetailing. This is not the same as a Moxon. The Moxon goes on top of the bench. This raises the work piece up for easier access, and this creates better control. With the dovetailing removed from the face vise duties, a leg vise becomes a quicker and easier way of clamping boards for edge planing. Keep in mind that I am a hand tool-orientated woodworker (although I class myself as blended since I use machines to rough out boards). Work holding is, therefore, of great importance. My Roubo bench is orientated to this end ... I did build my own leg vise with a wooden screw. It has a chain drive (this was the prototype for AYS) .. Regards from Perth Derek
  10. derekcohen

    Coffee table for my nephew

    This was the model for the coffee table my nephew chose when I offered to build them a wedding present ... Let's see how we did .... Before the coffee table was assembled from the parts, I was mindful that it would be shipped from Perth to Sydney (which is the further than New York to LA). The main concern was that the container might bounce (be dropped or be handled roughly), and the weight of the heavy Jarrah top coming down on the splayed legs might cause them severe damage. (I am not concerned about the strength of the legs for normal home use - the construction is strong. More shortly). So, I build a table out of MDF that could be placed under the coffee table, and would take all the weight ... The top and base were connected with steel angle brackets ... Part of the strength in the splayed legs comes from the corner brackets, which act to lock in the mortice-and-tenon joint by preventing movement. These steel angle brackets further lock in the base from any possible twisting. The brackets are angled to 10 degrees to match the inside of the rails ... Incidentally, the best, and cheapest, anvil is this section of steel angle, the insides of which are lines with Hard Maple scrap, and then clamped in the leg vise over a leg .... The finish for the wood - Fiddleback Jarrah for the top of the carcase and the drawer fronts, and Jarrah for the base of the carcase and base/legs - was chosen for durability. It needs to be capable of resisting water marks and heat, and still have a natural appearance - not a sit-on-top finish, such as a poly or varnish. Most oil finishes are not durable enough. What I went with in the end was Evolution (satin), a hard wax oil by Whittle. This is a floor finish, and in the examples I saw it looked more like a waxed oil finish. The reports and reviews were highly favourable. I must say, after using it, I was completely sold. It is fantastic! The surfaces were sanded to 400 grit (Abranet), and then two coats were rubbed on with a micromesh cloth, 8 hours apart. Any residue was removed immediately. There was no grain raising that I could detect, however I did rub down the first coats with 400 grit grey mesh. The drawer case was waxed (only) with Lincoln Furniture Wax. This is a shellac-based wax. The inside of the drawer was finished with Ubeaut Hard Shellac diluted 50% with methylated spirits (alcohol). All of the above are Australian products. The interior of the drawer was lined in leather, which was waxed with Renaissance Wax. This is a close up of the Evolution. It is so much nicer in the flesh. Silky ... OK, to the coffee table ... The front, with the drawer (and the agonised-over-drawer-handle-pull-whatever) .. The colour, figure, and those rounded dovetails look fantastic ... Other end ... The rear has a closed panel. At the start of the project I had planned to make the drawer run all the way through, and open from each side. On reflection, this created more problems than it was worth, and so the one side was closed in with the same panel used as a drawer front ... The Jarrah base and splayed, tapered legs ... Finally the drawer ... The drawer stop used was the same design as used in the Apothecary Chest. This is adjustable, which enable the position of the drawer front to be fine tuned ... The 10mm drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak, which I find great for this purpose as it all comes quarter sawn. It is a moderately hard wood (by Oz standards). Plywood was used for the drawer bottom, as it was inset in grooves and covered in leather. Jarrah cove moulding was made to finish. Inside there is an inscribed brass plate for remembrance ... Thanks for all the contributions and discussion along the way. Regards from Perth Derek
  11. derekcohen

    Coffee table for my nephew

    Hi Coop Thanks! No checks. It may have been a pencil mark. All good. Regards from Perth Derek
  12. derekcohen

    Coffee table for my nephew

    That was my plan at the start of the build. In the end I thought it would be impractical, and have ended with a drawer from one side, and a panel (same as the drawer front) on the other side. Regards from Perth Derek
  13. derekcohen

    Coffee table for my nephew

    Last time the base was completed, and we had a quick look at the parts together. It is not fully sanded yet, and no finish obviously. It feels very solid in the legs - I know there were some that were concerned about the 10 degree splay .... The - almost - last lap is here, the building of the drawer. I do not want to bore the pants off all with yet another dovetailing, so rather here are some pictures of the decisions and tasks that need to take place for a well-fitted drawer. The first decision was to choose the wood for the drawer front, and the panel at the other side (the drawer will open on one side of the coffee table, and the other side will be a fixed panel similar to the drawer front). There is just enough of the Fiddleback Jarrah for these panels. The orientation of the figure needs to be chosen, otherwise it will look like a dog's breakfast ... It is beautiful wood, but very interlocked. The double iron works its wonders .. The length is short enough to joint on a shooting board .. Mark the width .. ... and shoot to the line. The ends are squared ... I frequently read how important it is to have a backing board when shooting end grain to prevent spelching. This is not important at all. The best strategy is to score the line you will plane to, and then add a chamfer at the end. Use the shooting plane for this ... Now plane until the chamfer disappears ... No spelching ... The fitted drawer front ... ... is tight to the sides and has about 1mm gap at the top. The back board of the drawer, and the rear panel ... These are the drawer parts: the front is 19mm thick, the quarter sawn Tasmanian Oak sides are 10mm (slightly thicker than my usual 8mm as it needs to be a little beefier) and the rear is 12mm ... A peek at the drawer ... All the details in the last chapter next time. Regards from Perth Derek
  14. derekcohen

    Coffee table for my nephew

    It is now beginning to look like something familiar .... The legs appear pretty strong and solid. No flex. Regards from Perth Derek
  15. derekcohen

    Milling Lumber by Hand

    Work smart .. Don't rush at the board with a scrub or jack plane. Determine where the high spots are, mark them, and plane those down first. Keep removing high spots only. Once flat/coplanar, you can use a jointer with the grain. Flip the board and mark for thickness. Now remove the waste - if you must ... for some jobs this is unnecessary. Regards from Perth Derek