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derekcohen last won the day on August 17

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About derekcohen

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Location
    Perth, Australia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building furniture predominantly with handtools

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  1. derekcohen

    Wood Drawer Runners

    Treeslayer, that's a very nice piece! Cleanly done. What is the wood? Regards from Perth Derek
  2. derekcohen

    Wood Drawer Runners

    It sounds like a good idea, but it's quite a bit of extra work, and it has rarely been an issue. Really. There is a simple solution - don't over fill drawers Regards from Perth Derek
  3. derekcohen

    Wood Drawer Runners

    I have only ever used drawer blades (frames). This is the traditional way. When I think of runners on drawers, I think of the kitchen On a recent build, I came up with an idea for an adjustable drawer stop that is simple to install ... I wish I had thought of this years ago. Regards from Perth Derek
  4. derekcohen

    Buying a router plane.

    Jim, thanks for the compliment! I'm just a weekend warrior, but I have been building furniture and tools for about 30 years. I write about my adventures (and mishaps ). My website is linked below. I've always believed that if you persevere you can do anything. The router plane is an easy build. Try making this bridle plough plane (it was featured in FWW magazine a few years ago) .. Sorry, that is just showing off. But, like with many things, once someone does what seemed before to be too difficult, others follow and find it not so much so. The apothecary chest? It did not place. I think it got to the finals. I wrote up a short summary of the Show here: The chest, for those that do not visit the "Advanced Woodworking" forum on this website ... Drawers curve and all dovetailing done on the curve ... There is a full collection of the build chapters on my website: (scan down to Apothecary Chest). Regards from Perth Derek
  5. derekcohen

    Buying a router plane.

    Jim, the router plane was one I designed and built some years ago. It was before the Medium Veritas router plane came along, and in fact was intended to motivate them to build the Medium (I have done a lot of pre-production testing for Lee Valley over the years). Consequently, I designed it around the Veritas router plane blades. At one time I made a bunch of them ... There is an article here with all the build details and a plan: There are a few videos on YouTube of some building the plane. There are also a number of magazine articles and videos by Vic Tesolin where he seems to enjoy using it in his demonstrations. I am very flattered. The blade is held in a spring-loaded clamp, which holds it in position when adjusting the depth (use a hammer tap, as you would a woodie). The depth stop is a very important feature, as it allows you to creep up on a final setting. Above all, the back of the body is flat and pushed with thumbs. This lowers the centre of effort, and makes it feel like a spokeshave in use. Lots of control. I've made mine with a brass "bed", but this is not necessary (It can be tricky to copy, but I show how in the article) .. Have a go, and post a picture of your version here. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. derekcohen

    Buying a router plane.

    The Veritas Router Plane is excellent. The fence is valuable, and it will be used, just not a lot of the time. If you are into inlay, the inlay head is helpful. I've used it to lay out mortices. Again, this is not a need-to-buy-now item. I would not bother with the spear or V-point blade. I have not found a use for it where a sharp square blade is available. I use the 1/2" a lot for hinge mortices, and the 1/4" after than. They are essential purchases. Get smaller blades as well if you plan inlay. It is important to plan for sharpening. I developed a system for router plane blades that is simply better than anything else - see for yourself: Article: Video using this method: So, the need is to purchase a sanding wheel for grinding the hollow. Then you could be set. Regards from Perth Derek
  7. derekcohen

    Full Sized Drawings

    I draw everything full size on 6mm thick sheets of MDF. Usually there is one drawing to represent the elevation, another for the plan, and then individual parts (such as legs) to aid in reproducing several pieces identically. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. derekcohen

    Japanese vs Western Chisels

    Decent (mid-price) Japanese white steel chisels, such as Koyamaichi, will last a LOT longer than the LN A2 steel bench chisels. A LOT longer! My tests used A2 from Blue Spruce, but the Koyamaichi left them for dust. The nearest rivals were Veritas PM-V11. Article: I do not know the particular set of Iyoroi chisels linked to here (from TFWW). I have a number of Iyoroi and they do not match up with the Koyamaichi (available from Lee Valley and Tools from Japan). The Koyamaichi have small lands, which makes them good for chopping dovetails. Regards from Perth Derek
  9. derekcohen

    Apothecary chest

    FINAL Talk about down to the wire. It's 11 p.m. and I've just completed a coat of Howard's wax after the last coat of Livos Universal Wood Oil. The drawers were all finished inside and out with Ubeaut Hard Shellac (dewaxed blond shellac). The inside of the chest (drawer recesses) was given a coat of paste wax. Tomorrow morning I take the chest to the Perth Showground for the annual West Australian Wood Show, where it will take its place among others in the furniture competition. I started this piece 3 months ago. I could tell you how the base gave me fits. It was a difficult task to design a stand for a curved cabinet. Probably why Krenov never built an apothecary chest! Last night I completed the base, and Lynndy loved it. Compound curves forever. Damn sexy. The base, that is. But when I placed the chest on it, the combination looked awful ... top heavy ... ugh! I was out of wood, out of time, and it looked like I was out of the competition. This morning I woke up and had an inspiration. Cut the legs shorter. This evening, after work, I did just that. And I like the finished piece. I think the balance is right. So does Lynndy, which matters. The dimensions are 1000 high (39") x 460mm (18") across. Here is the chest, and where it will be positioned in the entrance hall ... A few pics of the base ... Much time was spent designing and building the drawers, which curve across the fronts ... Yes, I changed the steel for brass screws (no slotted ones the correct size, however) ... And made knobs in the same Black Walnut, and fitted coplanar to the drawer recess (that was a headache before finally coming up with the simplest solution, to use the drill press!) .. I was very pleased with the drawer stops ... ... and you can see the shiplapped back if you peak ... It has been a long, but exhilarating build. I hope that you got something from it too. Regards from Perth Derek
  10. derekcohen

    Apothecary chest

    When I attached the metal knobs (too large and not right ... ugh!), I was swayed by Lynndy, who said to place the knobs square to the drawer front, since she liked the idea of them fanning from the front of the chest and accentuating the curve. In practice, this was not a good idea. Opening the drawers felt wierd - one is used to a drawer opening in the directing of the pull. These drawers did not do so. The opened at an angle to the pull. It felt wierd. Lynndy thought it charming. She is wierd. Having turned new Black Walnut knobs to match the drawer fronts, against the advice of some who argued for dark, perhaps Ebony knobs, I know had to decide how I would fit them. As before? No, I did not want that. I wanted to set the square to the drawer recess. There were two issues here: how to drill them the same as each other.? It would look a mess if some varied out of line. And then there was the fact that the drawer fronts curves and angled, which meant that the knobs would go in at an angle. One side would sit in- and the other side proud of the surface. I designed a couple of jigs to drill accurately. Fortunately I did not waste time making them ( I have no time in the kitty to get this piece ready for the upcoming West Australian Woodshow. It is days away). The simplest solution occurred to me last night. Use the drill press. Duh! All that was needed was to ensure the drawer was held vertically, and then use progressively larger bits until the size I needed (3/8"), the tenon of the knob. That went smoothly. The holes were then widened slightly on one side with a step drill bit to allow to seat the knobs evenly. I have begun installing the knobs with wedges. The cabinet and drawer fronts have had a coat of Livos oil, and you can now get an idea of how the knobs blend in (the drawers are proud of the cabinet as the oil is drying) I completed the base for the chest this afternoon, but I am not thrilled with the design. I'll make a decision tomorrow whether to use it or not. Regards from Perth Derek
  11. derekcohen

    Apothecary chest

    As requested by a number of people, I have clocked the screws at the rear of cabinet. Gad, some are so OCD! One coat of oil so far .. Regards from Perth Derek
  12. derekcohen

    Apothecary chest

    Shipplapping the back When you see shavings like this ... ... you know a skew rebate plane is at work. Shiplapping is the joining of boards using an overlapped rebate. The advantage of this is to allow for movement while presenting an outward solid and sealed surface. The rebate is on each, but opposite sides of the board. In this case, I have made the rebate 10mm wide. This will allow for an overlap of about 7-8mm. Here I have made use of sections of Black Walnut that would otherwise be considered offcuts ... The boards are 6mm thick, and each rebate is just 3mm high ... Planing take a few minutes with the Veritas Skew Rabbet plane ... When the carcass was dovetailed together, allowance was made for a rebate all around the rear of the chest. This required that the area close to the pins was left uncut ... ... which can be seen at the corners .. The waste was now chiselled out ... The boards could now be cut to length and fitted. The rebate gap between boards was set with a spacer ... No glue is used as the boards are free to expand into the gap. A single screw holds them close to the overlap ... Done ... And no one will see any of this Regards from Perth Derek
  13. derekcohen

    Apothecary chest

    The knobs were completed this evening, and a finish coat of Shellawax applied ...Regards from PerthDerek
  14. derekcohen

    Apothecary chest

    Steve, I originally considered drilling all the knobs to face forward. I even designed a jig to facilitate straight drilling. This is more complicated than it sounds, but I was prepared to do it. However, it also occured to me that placing the knob vertical on each drawer front would flow with the curve and not fight it. I went with this. And no jig needed Regards from Perth Derek
  15. derekcohen

    Apothecary chest

    Well, I spent late afternoon turning knobs for the chest. I should have done this at the start, but thought it would take too long. In all, it required about 2 hours. They are not quite finished, but enough is done so you get an idea. And your thoughts, as always, are welcomed. All along, Lynndy has said, "make the knobs in the same colour as the drawers". She wants them to blend in, and after staring at the chest knob-less for so long, I see her point. So they will be finished in oil and wax, as per the carcase and drawer fronts. The iron knobs are 22mm wide and 21mm high. The new knobs are 18mm wide and 20mm high. The tenon is 3/8" and long enough to extent through the drawer front and be attached with a wedge from inside. Some have a little wax to obtain an idea of the final colour. There are enough here for all the drawers ... The idea is for the knobs not to dominate ... Thoughts? Regards from Perth Derek