derekcohen

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derekcohen last won the day on February 5

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About derekcohen

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    Journeyman Poster

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    www.inthewoodshop.com

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  • Location
    Perth, Australia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building furniture predominantly with handtools

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  1. No mitre gauge track!!? I do think that a router table is a wonderful resource. However, a good router table does not need to be complex. In fact, I much prefer the KIS principle. My first router table was simply a piece of MDF with a hole for the bit. The fence was a 2x4 clamped alongside. It did good work. While this latest router table has many bells and whistles, it is still relatively simple compared to many. This is my solution for a mitre track ... There are two reasons to have a mitre track. The first is to attach a feather board. As I mentioned earlier, the JessEm guides do
  2. The aim is to glue up the assembled drawer and let it dry in the drawer case. This drawer fits ... ... however it is a tight squeeze and I know that there are issues which need to be corrected before glue is applied. It is the same for every drawer. Each drawer needs to go through an assessment, trouble-shooting for issues, until the drawer moves smoothly. I need to point out at this stage that, although drawers are made in batches (a row), each drawer is fitted, tuned, and glued up before assembling the next drawer. At this stage, six (of ten) drawers have been compl
  3. Perhaps I need to explain the title, "Dovetailing for Blood". In part, the description comes from a book, "Backgammon for Blood", by Peter Becker I read about 4 decades ago. It's about taking the game to the most competitive level. This series of articles is not a how-to about dovetailing; it is about the strategies I use when building drawers. I offer them for discussion and your interest. This is the drawer in question. In the previous article, the focus was on strategies for connecting the drawer front and drawer sides via half-blind dovetails. The aim there - and c
  4. I have just completed another router table: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/RouterTableAdventure.html This is built into the outfeed of my table saw. It features a number of interesting items: fully-functioning fence, JessEm guides, Router Raizer, Wixey digital gauge, and amazing dust collection! The aim was to build a router table with good features, and at a reasonable cost. To do this, there is no expensive router lift, and the fence is shop-made. I hope it offers up some ideas for others. Regards from Per
  5. Rebuilding a Kiyohisa oire nomi
  6. Cock ups I recently wrote that I aim to build as best as I can. Sometimes it does not go well at all I make two repairs today. Usually, the mistakes I make are as I get spatially challenged, and cut the wrong side of the board. The first one here was being a little over-enthusiastic with a block plane when trimming a drawer front (a few days ago). The problem is difficult to detect from a distance ... ... but close up .... ! Damn. The drawer front is part of a set of three. It cannot simply be replaced. One also cannot glue a filler to the side of the board.
  7. He used it in the same way as a scraper blade - removed the teeth and hammered it in. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. Dovetailing for Blood! Bill and I have been discussing drawer-making. We have different approaches since our target audience is a different group. Bill is better aligned with production work, aiming to build a drawer as quickly as possible. He is less concerned with aesthetics (although his work always looks exceptionally good) and more focussed on finding shortcuts to increase speedier construction. My work is aimed at being the best I can, with a focus on traditional construction completed to as near perfection as I can muster (which sounds grander in words than in practice!). I ar
  9. This chapter follows on from "Before the Drawers", in which I should have ended stating, "Now we are one step away from making drawers". And now this chapter is that penultimate step ... I need to explain some of the (as I feel) pedantic details I have been outlining. Firstly, I write this for those who are starting out and those who are seeking ways to increase their accuracy. The steps may not be new to some, but we all like to be reassured that others also find them necessary. Secondly, I am going to introduce a fixture I built that increases not only accuracy, but speeds up a
  10. Nice Gee-Dub I wrote an article about this about 2 years ago, and it is somewhere on this forum. There is a copy on my website now, having added a page on power tools and machines a few months back ... http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered Tools and Machinery/BuildingADrillPressTable.html Don't forget, the circle needs to be offset from the centre of the drill bit to maximise use ... [img[/img] Regards from Perth Derek
  11. Only make router bases with Lexan before this. Regards from Perth Derek
  12. It seems so straight forward: build the case, insert drawer frames and dividers, and build the drawers. Each step actually requires planning ahead. The devil lies is in the details. These are some of the details we take for granted ... Step one is to plane the fronts of the rails and dividers, and fill in any chips with tinted epoxy. Even gluing up requires a strategy when the case includes blind sliding dovetails: glue these first. The benefit of liquid hide glue is extended open time and repairability. I hope that I do not have to make any repairs, but I could do with the
  13. I am pleased to get to this stage, with everything still square .... ... 24 sliding dovetails done. Only a dry fit - now to glue it together .. Regards from Perth Derek
  14. A blind sliding dovetail This is the front of the cabinet, with all the vertical dividers to install. The single lower- and the two dividers need to be fitted into a sliding dovetail ... however, unlike the dividers at the rear, this must be from inside the case. In other words, a blind sliding dovetail. This post will show the steps taken for the lowermost, central divider. This could not be done without the aid of blue tape. This is used to mark the apex of the tail ... This is how the tail will be positioned. Below is where the pin socket has to be c