derekcohen

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About derekcohen

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    Journeyman Poster

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    www.inthewoodshop.com

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  • Location
    Perth, Australia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building furniture predominantly with handtools

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  1. Thanks Mark. One note - I changed the chuck because I wanted keyless, not because there was any issue with the Nova chuck ... I have not used it. Update: Apparently Albrecht guarantees their chucks to have .0015" run out or less. I think I am okay Regards from Perth Derek
  2. Yes, Wegner has some great designs. This is my favourite. Sorry, no templates. I also deliberately did not post dimensions when I wrote up the build as it is still manufactured under license... but you can read the details of the build here (scan down the page): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/index.html Regards from Perth Derek
  3. I replaced the Nova chuck (which is actually a cheapish Chinese-made keyed chuck), with a 13mm keyless Albrecht clone I have used for several years. I had good results with this in my previous drill press, and was wondering whether to upgrade it or not. Consequently, I completed some run out tests for it. Set up ... I used a 1/4" shank carbide router bit as the test piece. This was a one-time test, so I may have had better results from another router bit, or from re-positioning it. It is what it is ... Results ... This reads 0.045mm run out. That is 0.0017" run out. Is that good or bad? My understanding is: there is run out that may occur with the spindle, then there is run out that will occur at the chuck and quill (which could also be measured separately), and finally there is the run out measured at the bit. The results here are a total of all these together. It was mentioned to me that around 5 thousands of an inch would be acceptable. I have 1 thousand inch. The other item I attended to was to add a Wixey laser guide ... It tucks aware and is quite unobtrusive ... It leaves a nice, clean line ... ... but it is a little wider than expected. The jury is out whether it is just a gimmick, or whether it will prove to be useful. Regards from Perth Derek
  4. This is one of three featured in a recent FWW magazine article ... To be blunt, I find these designs very bland. I prefer something less box-like. Here's a chair I built .... not my design. It is by Hans Wegner ... Wegner was (is) famous for his chair designs. Look him up. Regards from Perth Derek
  5. Woody, you can drill holes at the beginning and end of each groove, and then use a fretsaw to removed the bits between. Or rout it out. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. My original plan was to build a simple base out of Pine 2x4’s and screw on lockable wheels. This has worked for me before. Well, I did this first, and then added the base, then the steel tube - all bar the drill head ... and then called over my neighbour to assist with the head attachment and hoisting. Bearing in mind the cost of this thing, dropping it was something I wanted to avoid. It was Sunday morning and I caught Gareth just before he was due to leave for work (he builds houses and this was his display day). With the tube on the ground, we wrestled the head onto it with the aid of lithium grease, and hoisted the drill press erect. I cannot under state how much sweat went into the marriage of the head and tube. Some say it is easy. Not these guys - four left hands... Finally, done ! Congratulating ourselves, Gareth went off to change, and I stood back to admire the new drill. It dawned on me that the controls were a little too high for comfort. I am a Mr Average - a little under 5’10” - and the Voyager was obviously designed for me, but now the height would have suited someone about 6’2”. What to do? I called Gareth over again, and together we hoisted the drill press up onto rafters so I could remove the base and install the one in the earlier photo, which was on another machine. This was not a fun activity. I was working frantically against the clock to resize the mobile base and then bolt it to the drill press before he left for work. It was held up there with his winch and, as I was unfamiliar with it, I did not want to attempt to release it on my own. Resizing the mobile base and attaching it to the hanging drill press took a while longer than I hoped, and Gareth went off to work. The Voyager was left hanging off the rafter all day. It was a testament to his patience that he helped lower it at 7:00 p.m. on his return. Was it worth it? Yes, absolutely. This machine really does need the correct size/height base . The one I have literally skims the floor, adding perhaps 1" to the height, which is fine. It feels pretty solid on the wheels, which are hard without any spring. I would say that the extra width of the mobile base adds a little to its stability. Further, the head, while very heavy, is quite slim ... unlike traditional drill heads, which have to accomodate all the belts ... and so keeps the mass in the vertical. Regards from Perth Derek
  7. No. It was flat as found. I selected the piece I ended with for size, but all were flat. If it had needed to be flattened, I would have used a jointer plane. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. A couple of weeks ago I took advantage of a Black Friday sale and purchased a Nova Voyager drill press for a great discount. This replaced a Taiwanese model I had for 25 years. Yeah, I know this machine is OTT, but it is an amazing tool. For those who are not familiar with the Voyager, it is a computerised, variable speed drill press with a 2 hp direct drive motor (240v). I have already used it to determine the ideal speed for a selection of forstner bits, and then drill to a preset depth, and stop automatically at that depth. Putting it together was .. uh ... a little scary. The motor section is extremely heavy, and I was concerned that I would drop it in my usual clumsy fashion. Anyway, it was put together without mishap. A Nova fence was one of the freebees thrown in ... Nova recommend that one not use a mobile base, however I need to do so since my machines occupy one side of a double garage, and some machines need to be mobile. The drill press is one. The ideal mobile base is as low to the floor as possible. A low centre of gravity is more stable, but also you do not want to raise the drill press up too much as the controls and computer screen may be moved out of your comfort zone. Steel mobile base on lockable wheels ... This post is more about the table I built for the drill press. Some may be able to use the ideas here. Most of the ideas are old hat, but there are a couple of novel ideas. My old drill press used nothing more exciting than a piece of plywood over the cast iron table. Somehow it was sufficient, although the work holding sucked ... and this is what I wanted to address here. Plus, the sacrificial board became chewed up and useless very quickly, and I had an idea to improve on this. I was not crazy about the cast iron table as a work surface. For a top I found in my local salvage yard a 18" x 25" UHMW slab 30mm (1-1/4") thick. This is about as perfect a table top as one could get - it is very resistant to damage, and yet will not damage wood placed on it. It planes without any tearout The first task was to dado in aluminium tracks for the fence and hold downs, and then to create a circular mortice for a sacrificial section ... Using a power router to waste UHMW is an interesting experience - lots of plastic string everywhere, and dust control was not working well. The circular recess was time consuming and finicky. The template began as a 2" forstner cut hole. This was then progressively widened to 4" using a rebate and a flush cut bit in the router table. Finally, the template was used with a pattern cutter to create the circular recess, above. The circular sacrificial disks are 1/2" thick MDF. I found it quicker to saw them fractionally oversize on the bandsaw, and then turn them on the lathe ... Here now is the basic table ... There is a cut out at the rear for the winder ... Now why did I choose a circular sacrificial section? I have seen many drill press tables using square sections. I cannot recall seeing any with round disks (unless it was dedicated to a sander, but that is not the same thing). The drill bit is not centred on the square. Instead, it is moved to the rear of the square. That way one can rotate the disk four times after it becomes holed. My objection to this design was that one only obtained four points, and as soon as one section became holed, it could no longer back up the drill. Now a circular disk, on the other hand, has an infinite number of positions (infinite until the circle is completed). Just rotate as much as you need. More work to make, but better in the long run. Here is the finished table ... The Nova fence came with those twisty levers. They are useless ... difficult to achieve the ideal tautness and hard to get to behind the fence. I replaced them with the long knobs. These needed to be cut down by 3/4" to avoid fowling the downfeed handles. The tracks not only hold the fence, but also Incra hold downs ... ... and even the Micro Jig clamps for taller boards ... I hope there is something you can use. Regards from Perth Derek
  9. Yes, I have tried every method, including drilling out the waste. Working very hard woods drives one to try it all .. Drilling, then splitting out the waste. Cleaned up .. End of my bench ... Regards from Perth Derek
  10. Mark, I purchased the light from a vendor in Australia. I'm racking my brain to remember from whom as I would like a couple more. Fortunately, they are quite common now. This one is 240v. Regards from Perth Derek
  11. No shoulder here. One of the reasons for my Moxon design is that it holds the board off the chop and I can see light (indicating gaps). Moxon: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/TheLastMoxon.html If I did want a shoulder, I created a way to do this using blue tape instead (which is not invasive): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/The140TrickisDead.html Regards from Perth Derek
  12. We are building a version of this hall table ... We left off last time with basic preparation of stock from rough sawn boards .. A word of introduction before continuing: while I am best known for hand tool work, I am a blended woodworker and have a pretty full compliment of power tools, which I use. It is horses for courses - power does the grunt work and hands do the details and joinery. So there are machines here as well as hand tools, and I like to believe they coexist well in my builds, as they should. I began this session by turning the legs ... The Jarrah for the legs turned out a few shades lighter than expected, and I made an extra piece to experiment with different dye mixes. A final decision shall be made once the case is completed. The panels needed to sized, which involved measuring from the centre line of the book-matched panels. The quickest way to square this up was to mark a line (in blue tape), and plane to it ... much faster than using power saws, etc. Once done, you can square up on a jointer .. ... rip to width ... ... and cross cut ... Here are the panels for the case (sides yet to be dimensioned for height) ... Packed away for the night ... When marking the dovetails, it pays to work precisely. Mark carefully ... My favourite dovetail saw is usually the one I sharpened most recently. This is an original Independence Tools saw by Pete Taran (circa 1995) .. Completed side panels ... It begins to be a little more fun as I get to use one of the features I recently built into my new Moxon vise - the Microjig clamps (details of Moxon vise here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/TheLastMoxon.html). These are used to hold the tail board to transfer to the pin board ... Here you see the transferred tails outline in blue tape (easier to see in the hard wood). On the left is a model of the mitred ends that will be part of this build ... Saw the pins ... Note that the end pins are not sawn on the outsides. Now turn the board around, and strike a vertical line at the outer pin ... Saw this on the diagonal only. Do both sides ... Place the board flat on the bench and create a chisel wall for each pin (earlier, this would have been done for each tail) ... The chisel wall will make it easier to create a coplanar baseline when removing the waste (by preventing the chisel moving back over the line). Do this on both sides of the board before proceeding. Now you can fretsaw away the waste. Try and get this to about 1mm above the baseline ... Here is a video of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6O4rY_0zQs To create the mitred ends, first mark ... ... and saw about 1mm from the line. This will later be flushed with a chisel for accuracy. And so this is where we are up to at the end of the weekend ... So will the sides fit ... or won't they .... mmmmm Regards from Perth Derek
  13. I thought that the build might begin with preparing the panels, since there has been some interest in the past shown in the shorter Hammer K3 sliders. Mine has a 49" long slider and a 31" wide table for the rip fence. The build is an entry hall table for a wedding present for a niece. Her choice was this mid century modern piece, which will be the basis for the build. My job is to re-invent it somewhat. She wants Jarrah, and I have managed to find something spectacular ... a subtle fiddleback (curly) set of boards that will make a book match (as they are only about 9" wide each). Most imagine that the value of a slider lies with cross-cutting. It certainly is so. However it is the rip using the slider - rather than the rip fence - which is so amazing. One side of each board was to be ripped on the slider, before being jointed and resawn. Ripping on the slider is such an advantage with life edges. No jigs required. No rip fence to slide against. Just clamp the board on the slider, and run it past the saw blade. The long sliders can complete the rip in one quick pass. It occurred to me that I should take a few photos of ripping to width since the boards are longer than the slider. Here you can see that it comes up short ... In actuality, with the blade raised fully, there is a cut of nearly 54" ... The solution is to use a combination square to register the position of the side of the board at the front, and then slide the board forward and reposition it ... ... and repeat at the rear ... The result is a pretty good edge, one that is cleaned up on the jointer in 1 or 2 passes, and then ready for resawing ... This is the glued panel. It is long enough to make a waterfall two sides and top section (still oversize) ... The following photo shows the lower section at the rear. What I wanted to show is the way boards are stored. Since I shall not get back to this build until next weekend, all boards are stickered and clamped using steel square sections. The steel sections are inexpensive galvanised mild steel. These are covered in vinyl duct tape to prevent any marks on the wood and ease in removing glue ... Done for the day ... Enough for the case (top/bottom and sides), which will be through dovetailed with mitred corners, the stock for 4 legs (yet to be turned), and rails for the legs (the legs will be staked mortice-and-tenon) and attached with a sliding dovetail. Regards from Perth Derek
  14. Just decent brass butt hinges. One rare earth magnet is not enough to ensure the spacer remains in position when weight is on top. The screw holds it firmly. I've been using this design for several years. It's good. Regards from Perth Derek
  15. I collected some rather nice fiddleback Jarrah from The Timber Bloke for the hall table (for my niece) that is now starting. (It has some nice challenges, but that is all for later) ... The table is based on a Danish Modern design and has a case with drawers. The Jarrah for the underside of the case is nothing special (as it will not be seen), and I have used old roof rafters, a few nail holes and all (having said this, they cleaned up really nicely, as you will see). Having planed one side and an edge, time was to resaw away waste prior to thicknessing to dimensions. I had a brand new carbide Woodmaster 1.3 tpi 1" blade, quite unused, which replaced one that disintegrated after about 4 years. I had reasonably good results from the old blade. It did not leave the cleanest surface - as clean as others reported - which may have been due to uneven set. This improved after I ran the (old) blade against a diamond stone. While these blade are not meant to be sharpened, I re-sharpened the teeth about 3 or 4 times over its life. I hesitated to purchase another (considering a Resaw King), but obviously in the end did so. In addition to the new blade, I have also modified my resaw fence on the Hammer N4400. Several years ago I made this one out of MDF ... It slides over the original fence ... The local woods I work with is typically quite interlocked, and it is not unusual to see a widening kerf as it comes off the bandsaw blade. The issue with this is that the one side of the board then pushes away from the fence, and pushes into the blade, causing the cut to skew. I have given this some thought over the past year, and eventually modified the fence to allow the board to exit the blade away from the fence. It is now free to move without affecting the cut. At first I simply pulled the fence back ... However, there was not enough support for the board as it went past the blade. This led to cutting back the fence and retaining a short, low section for registration ... So, here is the 9" wide Jarrah being sawn ... As it comes out of the blade, so the kerf opens up (not too badly. I have seen much worse) ... Here is the back of the fence ... The cut is staying tight against the line, and remained that way from beginning to end ... The final surface looks like this ... Very happy with the new blade. It motored through this cut! Regards from Perth Derek