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derekcohen last won the day on March 2

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About derekcohen

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    Journeyman Poster

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    Perth, Australia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building furniture predominantly with handtools

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  1. There are a few ways to attach butted mitred corners. 1. Glue with “sizing”. End grain is a bunch of straws, and this tends to suck up glue, with the result that the joint become glue-starved. Glue can hold a butt joint very well. - see how well panels last with just glue - however there must be glue to do so. Sizing is using glue to seal the straws before glueing. Water down some of the glue you plan to use, and wipe it into the glue area. Let it get 90% dry. - a touch tacky - and then add the regular glue, and join the pieces together. 2. Reinforce the mitre. Create a spline using a table saw or router table. Generally, 3mm (1/8”) thick will be fine. My saw blades are 3.2mm wide. The orientation of the grain for the spline is important. You want end grain facing out. 3. Use biscuits, dominos or dowels. A spline is the strongest method because it can run the full length of the joint (or near-full length if the mortice is stopped). This is where biscuits can score over dominos - the biscuit is shallow but long, while a domino (and way back in third place, the dowel) is deep but narrow. This limits where you can position a domino or dowel. 4. Dovetail splines at the top and the bottom of the mitre. Chisel these out. 5. Splines through the outer corner edges of the joint. May be done using a sled on a table saw or router table. Or use a biscuit machine. If you like the look, of course. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. The dovetails for the drawer fronts of Marc’s cabinet are indeed similar, jn that they are lipped. His drawer design and construction is, however, quite different, and reflect his power tool orientation. Nicely done. Regards from Perth Derek
  3. I don't have a chop saw, but I do have the DUST COMMANDER DLX ESD   connected to a Festool CT26E. This is a powerful combination, and used effectively with a Domino as well as the table saw guard, as shown here. I imagine that it would handle your chop saw. The Dust Commander is much the same as a Dust Deputy, perhaps a little better. What is relevant is that the hoses used for extraction from a chop saw need to be wide: 35mm minimum. Run a Dust Commander or Dust Deputy between the two, and you should see an improvement. Regards from Perth Derek
  4. Did I make the entry door? No way. That's a job for the professionals. Regards from Perth Derek
  5. I've worked quite a bit with Hard Maple. It has a similar density, but is a joy to work. Jarrah is open grain, can be very interlocked, and also quite brittle. All the other US hardwoods I have used - such a Black Walnut and Cherry - are tame by comparison. You need to be thinking along the lines of Wenge. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. A couple of extras ... Regards from Perth Derek
  7. My niece is getting married at the end of March, the entry hall table she asked for is completed, and in a couple of days it will head off to Sydney. This is the model for the table she wanted me to build, but to build it in Jarrah ... I needed to make a few modifications. The most notable were, firstly, that there are three drawers, where the model has two. With a little research, it became evident that the model was a "flat pack" build from a store in the UK, and it used slides and poppers for the drawers. Without slides, wide drawers will rack since the depth-to-width ratio is all wrong. Three drawers change this ratio and make it workable. Secondly, building a drawer to ride wood-on-wood, one cannot use poppers - and so drawer handles are necessary. My niece was keen that drawer handles would not be seen, and I have done my best to make them unobtrusive. Together with the desire to avoid drawer handles, there was also the request to make the drawers appear to be a single piece, rather than drawers separated by drawer dividers. The fact is, we had to have drawer dividers. So, to hide them, drawer fronts were given lips, with a lip covering half the width of a divider. In this way, the dividers could double as drawer stops. Making lipped, half-blind dovetails was a first for me. In the end, they were not too bad. The case of the original table is mitred, and this is likely butt jointed and supported with either dowels, biscuits or dominos. My choice was to use mitred through dovetails, both for their strength and also for aesthetics. Although I have done a number of similar cases in recent years, this joint is one where you hold your breath until it all comes together. Then you wonder what the fuss was about A fifth change was the attachment of the legs. The model likely used a metal screw per leg, which was common with Mid Century furniture. I wanted something stronger and durable so, in place of this, my decision was to stake the legs into a thicker base, which was firmly attached to the underside of the case with tapered, stopped sliding dovetails. A bit more work, but I will sleep better at night. At the end of the day, it resembles a box, and only a woodworker will recognise that it is a very complex box. Okay, here it is. It is photographed in my entrance hall .... The wood is fiddleback (curly) Jarrah. A close up the waterfall on one side ... ... and on the other ... The obligatory dovetail shot ... Those drawers! The lipped drawer fronts are 20mm, with the drawer sides 1/4". The back is 15mm thick. The thin sides necessitated drawer slips. These were beaded to create a transition from slip to drawer bottom. The drawer bottoms are 1/4". The wood used here is Tasmanian Oak. Since the case and internals are build from hard Jarrah, the underside of the slips was given a Jarrah slide to improve ware properties. As mentioned earlier, the aim was to present a single board at the front ... Here may be seen how the lips share the drawer divider and use it as a drawer stop. The spacers at the side of the case are half the width of the dividers as they do not share two drawers. Now those drawer handles ... I tried to keep the design as simple as possible, and used the same wood as the drawer fronts so they would blend in. The upper drawer shows the finger grip on underside of the handle ... Drawer extension is good - about 80-85 percent ... The internal bevels around the case ... ... maintained a straight edge to the drawer line. Plus the gap between the drawers (about 0.5mm) ... Near-to-last, the case back: this is made from the same Jarrah - one never knows if the piece will end up against a wall or out in the open. Someone will ask if the brass screws were clocked ... of course they were! And a final photo to provide some scale. This is taken with a chair I built a few years ago ... Thanks for coming along for the ride. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. This is the last part of the build - completing of the drawer bottoms and pulls. A panel was prepared some weeks ago. 1/4" thick Tasmanian Oak. This was made up of two, book matched boards. Blue tape was used to pull the jointed edges together. Clamps are unnecessary for this task ... Measure off the full width of the drawer bottom from inside the slips ... Of possible interest is the work holding for the drawer bottom ... The bench dogs on each side were made from sections of unhardened O1 steel, and filed into teeth. Another heads-up is the arm for this cutting guard. Some while back, Veritas brought out a gauge with a fine adjuster. They now sell the arms to upgrade existing gauges, which is what I have done here to a wheel gauge I made ... Here the tongue is marked (about 4mm). This will fit into the groove in the slip. The thickness of the tongue is marked (3mm). The tongue is planed ... The fit is tested with a spare slip ... The bottom was about 1mm too wide to fit. A LN edge was perfect to re-joint one side ... Re-establish the tongue with a shoulder plane ... Slide the bottom in. At this time it is just a dry fit. The front, which remains 1/4" thick to fit to 1/4" groove at the rear of the drawer front, is not yet pushed home. The front groove will hold the one end firmly, allowing movement towards the rear of the drawer. The drawers require pulls. The aim is to make the pulls "vanish" as much as possible. To do this, the shape is kept simple, and the wood is a section from the drawer fronts. Here it is being planed to 1/4" thickness. Set up to make the pulls ... A 10mm wide rebate is planed on both sides. This will be completed on the reverse side as well, to create a tenon 3mm thick. Four sections are marked off for the pulls (only three are needed) .. A router is used to create dimples for a finger grip on the underside of the pull (three were needed and were good here; one could be tossed) ... The outlines are cut out ... The router is again used, this time to create a 3mm x 50mm mortice in the drawer fronts for the pulls ... The final section of the build is the drawer back. I decided to use Jarrah to match the rest - one never knows whether the hall table will become a room divider. The newly-purchased JessEm Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides make a clean, accurate rip that much easier ... The next post will show the completed hall table. Regards from Perth Derek
  9. Funny that combination or sliding squares get checked for “squareness” by running a line along the side. Since they are used (in my workshop) at the ends if the rule (marking to a depth), they should also be checked for having square ends. Never seen anyone do this. The best ... repeat Best ... squares for woodworking, are machinist squares. These are two sections of steel riveted together The worst are squares which look similar but are made from wood and metal. The rivets will stretch the wood and move out if alignment. The best of the best are squares made for woodworking by Chris Vesper. These are machinist square, solid metal (with inlay), and come with an accuracy certification. Use one to judge your sliding square is square, inside and outside. Use them for woodworking, The cheapest accurate squares are the plastic drafting squares you can get from a news agent. Useful for setting up a shooting board. Regards from Perth Derek
  10. The build is nearing the conclusion. The drawers, case back, and finish to do. Here, the drawers are continued. The focus of this article is on fitting the drawer (with lipped sides), and the fixtures that are used in the course of this process. We ended the last build session with the drawer parts made ... ... and the lipped drawer fronts completed ... First task today was to plane the groove for the drawer fronts .. The drawer sides and drawer back were dovetailed ... simple through dovetails. The notable feature here is that space is left for the drawer slip (which replaces the drawer groove as the drawer sides are 1/4" thick). Of interest may be the bench hook I use. I suspect that some may look at this and wonder why I am butchering it by chopping on its top .. Well, it is just scrap, and took about 5 minutes to make. So far this one has lasted about 3 months. I should get a few more out of it. Not only is it used for chopping, but also sawing ... ... and even shooting ... One of the issues with a lipped front is that it cannot be planed to fit after glue up. So, there are lots of dry fitting, and the sides are planed individually. This planing stop is invaluable for thin boards ... There is non-slip in the form of Crubber on the face of the stop ... When fitted together, any raised pins need to be pared level. Here, the drawer is captured in a fixture (essentially, two pieces of ply, each with a cut out). The pins are pared with the newly-released Veritas flushing chisels ... I've had a pre-production set for a couple of years. This is what a prototype handle looks like ... Veritas now supply this in a nice wooden handle. The one I am using is a design of my own, ala a Japanese slick .. Fitting the drawers also required positioning and glueing the drawer dividers. These also act as drawer stops ... This is the drawer divider in position ... It is slid back ... The first third of the dado receives glue ... The drawer is replaced and positioned .. And then the drawer divider is slid up against the rear of the lip .. The drawer case is fine-tuned with the LN Rabbet Block Plane ... This is used to smooth over any irregularities in the side walls and, where necessary, to plane away any fat ... The drawers are in the process of being glued up. Drawer #3 cannot be glued up until a brass plate is recessed into one side. T Marked out, the waste routed, and then chiselled along the circumference ... The drawer fronts are planed ... Another dry assembly and check for fit ... If there is any resistance to the drawer being pushed in-and-out, I test fit it from the rear. This shows whether the drawer or case needs some planing. Looking good here, as it goes right in ... There is good drawer extension (about 80%) ... The drawers are now glued up. Lastly, for the day, the slips are attached. These began like this, grooved and beaded ... A Jarrah runner is added below. The upper section of the slip is, as with the drawer sides and drawer bottoms, made from Tasmanian Oak. This is similar to US White Oak in hardness and wear. Since the drawers run on Jarrah, the wear properties are improved with the Jarrah wear section ... Tomorrow should see the conclusion of the build. Regards from Perth Derek
  11. Ahha .. a lapped dovetail is a half-blind dovetail. I forgot that this is the name used in the UK. Is the lipped- and half-blind/lapped dovetail different? The lipped dovetail is a half-blind with a lip. The lip makes it more complicated since it restricts how much can be sawn, which affects how the waste is removed. The joint also requires extra preparation at the start, with rebates being created at each side (and sometimes on all four sides). So, short answer, they are similar, but the lipped is more complex. Regards from Perth Derek
  12. What's a lapped dovetail? Never heard of one. Regards from Perth Derek
  13. Today I completed the second and third drawer fronts ... Since I had only come across one article on making the lipped drawers - and that predominantly used power tools - and failed to find a single video on the topic, I decided to make one myself: This is a real-time video - no editing. So skip the parts as they bore you. Hopefully some of it will amuse. Or watch at bedtime if you are insomniac Regards from Perth Derek
  14. Coop, I will show and demonstrate this below (look for my next post). Link to my website: Regards from Perth Derek
  15. derekcohen

    Domino Time

    I'm sorry I wasted your time with this information. Regards from Perth Derek