derekcohen

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derekcohen last won the day on April 8

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About derekcohen

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    Journeyman Poster

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    www.inthewoodshop.com

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  • Location
    Perth, Australia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building furniture predominantly with handtools

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  1. Drawer #5: french fitted sliding bevels (Shinwa, Stanley and Chris Vesper) ... Drawer #6: This one is about the tools ... just because I think that they are beautiful, and I love using them. They give me joy. All the tools in this cabinet have a story, or a connection. This is one of the reasons I keep them, even though I do not "need" them as I have others. All get used. In the case of the chisels in this drawer, they are my go-to for dovetails and close-up detail work. Mainly because they are all fully bevelled at the sides and have minimal lands.
  2. Assuming the material is solid wood, my choice would be a tapered and stopped sliding dovetail. Be mindful that solid wood needs to move. There is a cross grain join. Dominos and biscuits will not work well. The taper will allow the joint to tighten up strongly. This is important since it is in tension rather than compression. The stop would hide it. Regards from Perth Derek
  3. Drawer #2 - the skeleton drawer Here is the second drawer to be filled ... Why "Skeleton Drawer"? Well, it does not contain dark secrets, buried bodies, or other clandestine material http://www.woodcentral.com/webbbs/smileys/biggrin.gif It is just the name I have given to the drawer design since, unlike Drawer #1, which hid a jewellery layer, this discloses all from the outset. The drawer holds my Kiyohisa chisels: paring slicks and bench oire nomi. It is important to be able to find, and extract them easily when working at the bench. The paring chis
  4. What lies behind drawer #1? The underbench cabinet is done .... ... and now the drawers are being filled, starting with the centre drawer in the top row. There are 10 drawers in all, and the aim is to use the space as efficiently as possible. Into this cabinet will be those tools I want close at hand, and to access readily. The centre drawers in the top two rows are for marking tools. The top drawer will be for squares I use all the time. Opening the drawer produces a 300mm Starrett combination square, a 150mm Starrett double square, and a V
  5. Coop, the "collectibility" of the chisels is not a big concern. However, I imagine that a matched "set" would be more desirable than a hodge podge, at least for some. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. About 10 years or so ago, I was fortunate enough to purchase a set of Kiyohisa slicks from the maker, Watanabe Kiyoe, through So Yamashita (Japan-Tool.com). These have been incredible chisels and a joy to use when building furniture. As much art as tool. Part of the motivation for this thread comes from the completion of the underbench cabinet. Here are the Kiyohisa slicks in a drawer (beginnings of fitting tools into the drawers) ... Of course, over the years, I wished I have been able to order a set of Kiyohisa oire nomi (bench chisels). Not only were these very expensive sev
  7. These are final pictures of Stage One. "Stage One" - what does that mean? Well, the first step is to build the cabinet under the bench. The second stage will be to fit out the drawers for the tools. I plan to do some of the latter shortly, and some later. I will post these as they are done. For now, here is the underbench cabinet ... The rear, before the back was installed ... The front. The ring pulls are antiqued brass (they are not shiny). I need to work them a little more to remove the still-new look. These were chosen as they drop down and do not project out from the front
  8. Drawer Bottom and Slips One of the least pleasurable areas of drawer making is fitting drawer bottoms. Why? Because there always seems more to do than anticipated - there are more panels to machine to thickness and area, and this feels like it is endless. Mindless. Before starting on the bottoms, the drawer fronts are planed, chipped dovetails repaired, and fine-tuning of the bottom-less drawer is completed ... Link to the fixture here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/DrawerPlaningFixture.html One of the rules I set for myself at the start of this project was that,
  9. No mitre gauge track!!? I do think that a router table is a wonderful resource. However, a good router table does not need to be complex. In fact, I much prefer the KIS principle. My first router table was simply a piece of MDF with a hole for the bit. The fence was a 2x4 clamped alongside. It did good work. While this latest router table has many bells and whistles, it is still relatively simple compared to many. This is my solution for a mitre track ... There are two reasons to have a mitre track. The first is to attach a feather board. As I mentioned earlier, the JessEm guides do
  10. The aim is to glue up the assembled drawer and let it dry in the drawer case. This drawer fits ... ... however it is a tight squeeze and I know that there are issues which need to be corrected before glue is applied. It is the same for every drawer. Each drawer needs to go through an assessment, trouble-shooting for issues, until the drawer moves smoothly. I need to point out at this stage that, although drawers are made in batches (a row), each drawer is fitted, tuned, and glued up before assembling the next drawer. At this stage, six (of ten) drawers have been compl
  11. Perhaps I need to explain the title, "Dovetailing for Blood". In part, the description comes from a book, "Backgammon for Blood", by Peter Becker I read about 4 decades ago. It's about taking the game to the most competitive level. This series of articles is not a how-to about dovetailing; it is about the strategies I use when building drawers. I offer them for discussion and your interest. This is the drawer in question. In the previous article, the focus was on strategies for connecting the drawer front and drawer sides via half-blind dovetails. The aim there - and c
  12. I have just completed another router table: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/RouterTableAdventure.html This is built into the outfeed of my table saw. It features a number of interesting items: fully-functioning fence, JessEm guides, Router Raizer, Wixey digital gauge, and amazing dust collection! The aim was to build a router table with good features, and at a reasonable cost. To do this, there is no expensive router lift, and the fence is shop-made. I hope it offers up some ideas for others. Regards from Per
  13. Rebuilding a Kiyohisa oire nomi