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derekcohen last won the day on July 1

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About derekcohen

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Location
    Perth, Australia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building furniture predominantly with handtools

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  1. I have no idea about the backlash. Will know more when it arrives from Alibaba. This style suits the fence I have. Note that only one side needs the micro adjust. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. Here's the router table and router table fence I have been building. There is a little more work to do on the micro-adjuster, which is coming from AliExpress, as well as the dust extractor for the (2 1/4 hp) Elu 177e router I use. But for now, the rest is done. This is a very full-on set up. What is relevant is that it did not cost much (don't include the cost of the JessEm guides, which are excellent but a little luxury). It is difficult to total, as some parts, such as the aluminium insert plate, was purchased about 3 years ago, as was the Router Raizer lift, and the MuscleChuck router
  3. The legs I had meant to mention the way I dealt with the dowels, which were the original joinery for the legs, but there was not the opportunity. Here are the legs, and you can see the ugly dowels. What I did was to turn them upside down, and remove the dowelled section in the taper cut ... First, the legs were morticed .. I built a simple fixture for my sliding table saw ... The nail holes were filled with coloured epoxy, which disappeared after the finish was applied ... And then smoothed ... I was asked (when I posted this pho
  4. I did consider a drawer stop, but it was difficult to do with the drawer design. The drawer will hold a few light objects, such as keys, and I was not concerned about weight stressing it. Regards from Perth Derek
  5. There are four parts to the drawer build: the drawer size and design, the drawer case, fitting the drawer case, and the drawer. Part 1 described the drawer size and design, and the apron of the drawer case. Part 2 describes the rest. We ended Part 1 here. That is the apron and opening to the drawer case .. This is where the build ended ... The drawer case and its fitting I scratched my head for a week how to do this. How to get the case to support drawer blades. I did not want a heavy, complicated arrangement, one which ran the danger of protruding below th
  6. My reasoning was this: I could cut with a Japanese saw, which leaves a fine surface and a fine kerf. But I am still going to have to shoot the ends to ensure that they are perfectly square to one another - that is, both sides. That can add up to a wider kerf. So, go for the table saw, which will leave a fine and square cut with a predictable cut/kerf. Damned if you do and damned if you don't. Regards from Perth Derek
  7. Gee-dub I am curious whether you plan to use that length board, or will cut it up? If cut it up, why not do so before jointing? Regards from Perth Derek
  8. The drawer - part 1 It was my intention from the outset to hide the drawer as best as possible. This required that the drawer not have a pull or handle visible on the outside. To achieve this end, the drawer would need to be opened from the underside. Issue: Opening from the underside meant that the drawer would need to rest in a case which was open from below. Without a case bottom (i.e. drawer blades) on which the drawer could rest, the common method for a drawer would be a form of side hang. There are two methods for a side hung drawer that I know of, and I
  9. Finishes ... Somehow this area was forgotten, and of course it is important. All surfaces were hand planed, and then finished in de-waxed Ubeaut Hard Shellac. This concentrated and thinned with denatured alcohol/methylated spirits. This finish allows the figure to come through and, unlike an oil, does not darken the already dark Jarrah (which is what I wanted to avoid). The top was, in addition, sanded with a ROS to 400 grit. Jarrah is an open-grain timber and the sanded Shellac doubled as a grain-filler, leaving a smoothed surface. The next step was to rub in (a
  10. I have a couple of these Elu routers. In Oz and the UK the are the model MOS177e. The router is nearly identical (except for the dust insert) to the DeWalt DW656. It is likely that you can access spares that way. Regards from Perth Derek
  11. Unless one is building something very long or very tall, where a single stretcher section is required .... and I believe that this is extremely rare ... then a shorter jointer is more likely to be the appropriate machine. Fact: wood moves, and twists and cups, especially through the drying process. Flattening long sections will require the removal of more wood than flattening short sections. Solution: always cut the wood into the sections to use, and then flatten them. Do not attempt to flatten the full length of the rough cut stock. A benchtop jointer would work well for someon
  12. Not quite 4 weeks ago, a good friend, Rita, brought along an entrance hall table she wanted me to fit a drawer into ... (Note that these photos were taken in my entrance hall, not Rita's). It was really a boring ... okay, ugly table. I thought that the proportions were completely ugh, and the legs reminded me of detention in a classroom. The table had been a kerbside salvage by her late husband, a close friend of mine, and a very good woodworker in his own right. It had been used as a work table. Rita had just moved into a new home, and the table was used because the widt
  13. A stand is not going to work for thicknessing (planing). For the simple reason that the height would need to be constantly adjusted as the cut progresses. If the in- and out feed support is not coplanar, there will be extra pressure on the rollers, leading to snipe. There are two options: the first, and best, is to add the extensions offered by Hammer. The second is to secure a long, stiff (and wide enough) board through the thicknesser for the work piece to run along. Regards from Perth Derek
  14. Yeah .. come on over. Regards from Perth Derek
  15. There were a number of photos and comments I might have added, but thought that I had probably said too much already. One of the photos omitted was with clamps. I decided against the T-track style clamps here (as some may know, I have used them elsewhere) as they are too directional, which limits their range of cover. The side fence does not just travel parallel to the runway, but can be angled so, for example, one can hold an out-of-square board or deliberately plane a taper. As the end of the board will not sit flush against the far fence, clamps are helpful to prevent m