derekcohen

Members
  • Content Count

    386
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

derekcohen last won the day on August 17

derekcohen had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

403 Excellent

1 Follower

About derekcohen

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.inthewoodshop.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Perth, Australia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building furniture predominantly with handtools

Recent Profile Visitors

2,072 profile views
  1. derekcohen

    Tolerance

    It is not only blue tape that is helpful when working to close tolerances, but the use of marking gauges to transfer measurements, rather than re-measuring and marking each time. Keep a few marking gauges, such as wheel gauges, set up with the frequent sizes you need. It is common that I use about 5 at one time. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. derekcohen

    Sharpening Help

    Hi Lark Is the secondary bevel different from a micro bevel? If so, how do I know I have both? Yes, they are different, however it is common for many to call them the same. A secondary bevel is a bevel that is honed at a higher angle (e.g. 30 degrees) to the primary bevel (e.g. 25 degrees). A micro bevel is a tiny (hence "micro") bevel. You can have a micro bevel as a secondary bevel, however when hone flat on a hollow grind (that is, without changing the angle), it is not a secondary bevel. Does it matter how much of the back has the polished finish? Whole thing? First few inches? Ideally, the entire length of the chisel or plane back is flat. But this does not mean polished. The back of a plane blade needs to be flat/coplanar in order that it registers securely. The back of a chisel may need to register on a guide or jig for paring. It is sufficient to polish the immediate back of the bevel, which may be as small as 1/8". It is just easier to do 1". Regards from Perth Derek
  3. derekcohen

    An old project

    Remove the top. Keep the base. Float the TV above the base by attaching it to the wall. Regards from Perth Derek
  4. derekcohen

    Coffee Table

    Thanks. My wife thinks so as well Regards from Perth Derek
  5. derekcohen

    Coffee Table

    It's been a long time since I made a coffee table. This one is for my son, who recently moved to Sydney. New city, new job. He has found a great apartment, and has begun to request furniture, first a coffee table to replace an Ikea piece his girlfriend purchased. I think that he is playing with fire! No, she's great It's a long weekend in a fortnight, and Lynndy and I plan to visit. (We have family in Sydney, and old friends from when we lived there 30 years ago). My idea was to build a coffee table and take it on the plane as a sort of surprise (he knows I am building it, but will not expect it this way). Fun, eh? So, I needed a knock-down design. And a design along the lines of Danish Modern, which would fit in nicely in his home. I was taken with a piece by a Japanese maker, Ishitani. He has some great builds on YouTube which are worth looking up. Inspiration came from this design of his ... The top lifts off ... ... and the legs come apart ... The coffee table required two weekends to complete. That's a nice change from the pieces I've been building. The wood is Hard Maple. I've grown to like this stuff. I made a few changes to the design. Firstly, it is a little slimmer and larger (I think): 38" long x 28" wide and 16 1/2" high. Plus a few modifications. Here's the table ... To take this shot I had to crawl on the carpet. Much of the underside is unlikely to be seen, even at a distance. Here's what it looks like underneath. Where Ishitani left his rails straight, I've added a curve (you know me and curves) .. The legs come off for packing flat ... Join at the centre ... Ishitani connected breadboard ends with a dovetailed spline. I have used a true drawbored breadboard construction. The weather in Sydney changes from dry cold in Winter to high humidity in summer. I did not think that a dovetail would cope with this. Gotta show a tool - these were made with a Veritas Jack Rabbet (to balance the recent post of a power router for the mortices) ... Another change is the legs are connected with hex bolts. I really could not envisage the coffee table living a life with a loose top .. This was a very straightforward build. The only slight challenge was the legs - turning them precisely, and then morticing for the rails. The mortices were first cut in the blanks .. .. and then turned .. That's Peter Galpert's caliper on the lathe bed. I really recommend it for sizing spindles. The tenons were fitted into the mortice ... ... and marked out: .. before being rebated (is that the correct term here?) for the shoulder ... And that was it. Finish was a coat of Livos Universal Wood Oil to add a little amber to the very light maple. Then 5 coats of General Finishes water based poly was rubbed on for durability. This adds a little shine. Looks great. Can't wait to see Jamie's face! Regards from Perth Derek
  6. derekcohen

    Making mortices and tenons

    CO, keep in mind that I am not a longstanding user of the Domino. Others may not experience my frustration. The problem I have with the dominos is that (1) you need to use more than one to get the width to prevent twisting, and (2) the joinery is difficult to unglue, should you need to do so. Regards from Perth Derek
  7. derekcohen

    Making mortices and tenons

    CO, I have a Festool Domino 500, which I purchased when building a kitchen full of Shaker style frame and panel doors. I have used it for a few other small jobs. In my opinion, it is very far from the standards attainable from a mortice and tenon joint. The latter is more flexible in design, stronger in application, and reversible when repairs are needed. The Domino is like a better biscuit or a better dowel. It has a place, but will never replace traditional mortice and tenon joinery. I simply cannot imagine the world with heirloom furniture joined with dominos. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. derekcohen

    Designing a Chair then Building it

    David's forte is bending wood. You will see many curves he creates in his work. Super nice guy. I corresponded with him some time back as I was interested in building his desk (the one I posted earlier along with his chair). I think it is stunning. I do not generally copy the work of others, so I shall have to design something along those lines. Regards from Perth Derek
  9. derekcohen

    Designing a Chair then Building it

    If you want a challenge, then build this chair designed by Hans Wegner ... This is known as "The Chair" or "The Round Chair", and was made famous when Kennedy and Nixon debated the presidency on TV in 1960. It was actually designed in 1949. I built one with hand tools a few years ago. I was lucky to find an original on eBay. The challenge was to copy it exactly. I did OK ... Regards from Perth Derek
  10. derekcohen

    Designing a Chair then Building it

    That chair is by David Haig, from New Zealand. He built these ... Regards from Perth Derek
  11. derekcohen

    Sharpening System

    Jonathan, I'll complicate matters and suggest that the ultimate system is this .... http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/UltimateGrindingSharpeningSetUp.html ... however, it is for more advanced woodworkers. Although it is optimised for freehanding, it may be used very happily with a honing guide (which I use when honing bevel up plane blades). Regards from Perth Derek
  12. derekcohen

    Making mortices and tenons

    PH, dust control is decent. I use a Festool CT26E. The hose was removed for the photo. The router is plugged into the vac for auto switch on. Regards from Perth Derek
  13. I use both hand- and power tools in making this joint. Generally I decide on one or the other according to my mood, the alignment of the planets, how many joints there are, and and quickly it needs to be done. I was building a coffee table for my son this weekend, and decided to use the power method. Here are photos for your amusement. Mortices are made with a router using a simple jig. I've used a number of jigs over a few decades, and this is by far the best of all . The router fence is captured in a slot at the rear, and the work piece is held below with a couple of clamps. It takes seconds to set up ... In this instance the router uses a 8mm or 5/16" wide mortice using a spiral upcut bit. I will generally cut the mortices first, whether hand- or power. It does not make a lot of difference since both are marked out with a mortice gauge from a reference side. The mortice/tenon is centred (where the design calls for this) by eye. This means that it is not quite centre - but that is fine as long as all markings follow the same reference side. These legs are going to be turned on the lathe, which is why they look a little unusual at this stage. Of relevance here is that the ends of the mortice are squared with a chisel ... I do make a practice tenon to check fit ... Making the tenons involves the table saw and bandsaw. First the shoulders are defined on the table saw ... Set up the blade to the height of the cheek from the reference side (This may or may not - likely not - be the same for the non-reference side. It is not vital). Complete the saw cuts on all four sides (the practice was made this way, and this enabled the length of the mortice to be determined). Next I cut the cheeks on the bandsaw, and return to the table saw, but one could do all the table saw work at the one time. The bandsaw is set up to saw the cheek furthest from the fence. The reference side faces the fence. I have made a few spacers. This one is for a 8mm or 5/16" wide tenon/mortice. The measurement is the width plus the width of the bandsaw blade. Place the spacer against the fence, and saw the other cheek without moving the fence ... You can see that the beauty ends of the tenon still need to be removed. This is where I return to the table saw (as mentioned, this could have been done at the same time as the shoulders). Positioning the mitre fence at the centre of the blade, simply push the tenon across. It should require a single past to remove all the waste ... One cheek on the reference side should be clean at the corner, however the non-reference side is likely to have a little waste remaining ... Simply remove this with a chisel .. It may end the other way, that is, with a slight groove. I really would not be concerned - no one will see this, and it will not detract from the joint's strength. Here is the mating of the mortice and tenon in this build ... Regards from Perth Derek
  14. derekcohen

    Wood Drawer Runners

    Treeslayer, that's a very nice piece! Cleanly done. What is the wood? Regards from Perth Derek
  15. derekcohen

    Wood Drawer Runners

    It sounds like a good idea, but it's quite a bit of extra work, and it has rarely been an issue. Really. There is a simple solution - don't over fill drawers Regards from Perth Derek