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derekcohen last won the day on April 19

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About derekcohen

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Location
    Perth, Australia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building furniture predominantly with handtools

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  1. I have Bessey parallel clamps, however I prefer to rely on blue tape when glueing up panels. It is clear to me that one does not need clamps applying great pressure to create flat panels with tight joints. I am in the process of building an apothecary chest. This one is a little different in that it will have a curved front with curved drawer fronts. There are 24 drawers in all, and these are arranged in 4 vertical rows (by 6 horizontal rows). The chest requires three vertical dividers. The carcase and drawer fronts are Black Walnut. The dividers are made predominantly from Merbau, a hardwood, and faced with Black Walnut. The Merbau is secondary wood and will not be seen with the drawers inserted. The boards were thicknessed and jointed with machines. They are slightly oversize and will be taken to final dimension with hand planes. This is a panel-to-be ... Stretch blue tape across one side to pull the boards tightly together ... Run blue tape along the joins ... we do not want glue escaping ... Flip the panel over and insert glue into an open join ... Do this with all the joins, and then pull the lot together with tape. Wipe the excess glue off with a wet rag ... Add a caul .. ... and leave to dry ... The result is very flat panels, ready for planing before being cut down and inserted into dados ... Regards from Perth Derek
  2. It occurred to me that perhaps I look at drawing differently to others, and so I thought that I would throw this out here for viewpoints ...In practice, also, I do not use a scale to measure much (after drawing up to life scale, which acts as a story board). Usually, I transfer dimensions with a divider, and then run them off with a cutting gauge - which is why I have so many gauges (I'm sticking to that story! ). Here is my current project, an apothecary chest - making a template for laying out the vertical and horizontal dividers. The apothecary chest is complicated by having a curved front ...This is the curved front (but not the template, which was made with a trammel to achieve a true curve) ...Each one of these points was marked with two dividers (no rulers) ...I draw onto 6mm MDF sheets. It is cheapish, and it durable - It will take being scraped if needed (to remove marks), a divider can leave pin marks (to which to draw), and a cutting gauge will leave clean lines. Later, the templates may be stored for another day. What do you do?Regards from PerthDerek
  3. Dovetail Chisels

    My apology if this is going to come across as prescriptive, but I have a couple of articles/pictorials that you might read to give you clarity on the issues with dovetailing. The two most important aspects in this common and very important joint are (1) sawing to the line, and (2) accurate transfer of tails to pins (or vice versa). For ease of accuracy (with my ageing eyes), I use blue tape to aid in marking out. See the pictorials below. When sawing tails first (as I do), the most important feature is to saw the top of the tail dead straight (across the board). Everything is affected accuracy- and fit-wise if this is not done. This is demonstrated in my two articles. 1. Half blind dovetails: 2. Through dovetails: Regards from Perth Derek
  4. Dovetail Chisels

    Chestnut, if you like the Veritas PM-V11 chisels, and can afford them, then get them. They are perfect for the finest dovetails. For dovetailing in hardwoods, you want a blade that can take the force from a hammer (no, I am not advising a heavy hand, just precise tapping). On the tests I have done, PM-V11 came second to Koyamaichi white steel ... and waaay ahead of everything else. The Veritas chisels are well balanced and good in the hand. Review here. I use a 1/8", 3/16, 1/4", and 3/4" the most. For clearing the corners of half blind sockets I use a Blue Spruce fishtail. Get the smallest one. Only one is needed. You also need a thin bladed, one sided, V- marking knife. Chris Vesper makes mine (this is a design of mine). Chris offers two versions, and one is the thinnest blade on the planet. Seriously, you could not transfer these without one ... Regards from Perth Derek
  5. Dovetail Saw, Graduated Rake

    Just to reiterate, the filing of variable rake for dovetail saws is not a new idea. I have a couple (one is a sash saw from Eccentric Tools, which is no longer made, and the other is a dovetail saw from Glen-Drake). Yes, it can help with sawing, but it takes you down the wrong path. It is a solution to the wrong problem. The problem is technique, and the solution is to learn to hold a saw very lightly (as it holding a small bird), and use it with light pressure. In the end you will be rewarded with a skill that enables you to use a saw that is really designed to cut quickly to cut accurately. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. Dovetail Saw, Graduated Rake

    The Veritas saw is filed as a rip with a 14 degree rake. I followed this when I tuned it up. As an experiment I went back and filed the first 10 teeth at 20 degrees and the next 10 at 17 degrees leaving the balance of the length at the stock 14 degrees. After a few test starts in various materials (including some difficult ash that I have around) I'm sold on the graduated rake on the first teeth. I can start and cut to the line in just a few strokes. I just wanted to share the experience in case there is someone else out there who struggles with the starting cut more often than not, as I did. This is really a waste of time, and I state this in case others attempt to follow your lead. All you are effectively doing is shortening the saw plate. The average rake for most rip dovetail saws is about 4-5 degrees, and less (my LN is 0 degrees rake). The Veritas has an already very relaxed 14 degree rake. If you find this difficult still, then the issue is technique. The common difficulty is learning to take the weight off the saw when starting. This requires practice, and this may take a year or more - usually much more... Regards from Perth Derek
  7. Leitz make some of the best saw blades around. And they are not cheap. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. Dining table sagging

    Hi Carrie Remove the MDF/Chipboard top and throw it away. It is not worth the effort to try and fix it. Have someone (if you cannot do this yourself) build another top for you out of solid wood. Even stained pine, which is the cheapest option, would be more durable than what you have now, and could last many years. Regards from Perth Derek
  9. Planer-If it was only a little wider

    I wonder what the airfreight cost would be to Australia? Regards from Perth Derek
  10. Groovin' Baby!

    This is the second article in a series I am doing on the Veritas Combination Plane. This is more about using this plane - and others like it - than a formal review. This article is about ploughing grooves, which were the main feature of this box The article is here: Combination Plane-grooves.html Have a happy Easter and Pesach! Regards from Perth Derek

    Follow his company name and you will discover that he is Polish, living in the UK, having started a contracting company in 2004. I wish I could speak and write Polish as well as he does English. I think that he meant well, but was very frustrated, and the agent who worked with him knew enough to import machines but not service them or diagnose any faults. Regards from Perth Derek
  12. Poor proportions Clashing figure square, rectangular or boxy little thought given to matching boards on panels too wide frame pieces stripes through the centre of a table top heavy legs grain running in the wrong direction wide dovetails on drawers Thick drawer sides non-traditional joinery purple wood Regards from Perth Derek

    This is standard practice. The reason is to ensure that extra strain is not placed on the capacitor. The machines will start without holding down the start button, but there is a danger that eventually the capacitor will fail. Always hold down the start button until the motor is running. Regards from Perth Derek

    This is not typical of Felder, but a statement of the agent you have used. Of Felder in my area - Perth, Australia - I have nothing but the utmost praise. I have purchased three machines over the space of about 8 years - Hammer N4400 bandsaw, Hammer A3-31 combination thicknesser-jointer, and recently a Hammer K3 sliding tablesaw. Each of these machines was assembled by the agent in their warehouse before delivery to my workshop, where they were re-assembled and checked. When the K3 was delivered, the agent also checked the bandsaw, and tightened up the belt. This was done free. A week after the K3 was installed, I called them up because the front section of the slider (closest to the blade) was 0.5mm too high (yes, I am fussy). They came out the same day to sort it out. This is incredible service. I am not suggesting that all Felder agents are the same - in fact, I am saying that they are all different. Regards from Perth Derek
  15. Planing perfect dados

    Thanks Chestnut. Changed dovetails to dados! Yes, there will be followup articles on the other uses for the combo plane. Regards from Perth Derek