• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by derekcohen

  1. Drawer #2 - the skeleton drawer Here is the second drawer to be filled ... Why "Skeleton Drawer"? Well, it does not contain dark secrets, buried bodies, or other clandestine material It is just the name I have given to the drawer design since, unlike Drawer #1, which hid a jewellery layer, this discloses all from the outset. The drawer holds my Kiyohisa chisels: paring slicks and bench oire nomi. It is important to be ab
  2. What lies behind drawer #1? The underbench cabinet is done .... ... and now the drawers are being filled, starting with the centre drawer in the top row. There are 10 drawers in all, and the aim is to use the space as efficiently as possible. Into this cabinet will be those tools I want close at hand, and to access readily. The centre drawers in the top two rows are for marking tools. The top drawer will be for squares I use all the time. Opening the drawer produces a 300mm Starrett combination square, a 150mm Starrett double square, and a V
  3. Coop, the "collectibility" of the chisels is not a big concern. However, I imagine that a matched "set" would be more desirable than a hodge podge, at least for some. Regards from Perth Derek
  4. About 10 years or so ago, I was fortunate enough to purchase a set of Kiyohisa slicks from the maker, Watanabe Kiyoe, through So Yamashita ( These have been incredible chisels and a joy to use when building furniture. As much art as tool. Part of the motivation for this thread comes from the completion of the underbench cabinet. Here are the Kiyohisa slicks in a drawer (beginnings of fitting tools into the drawers) ... Of course, over the years, I wished I have been able to order a set of Kiyohisa oire nomi (bench chisels). Not only were these very expensive sev
  5. These are final pictures of Stage One. "Stage One" - what does that mean? Well, the first step is to build the cabinet under the bench. The second stage will be to fit out the drawers for the tools. I plan to do some of the latter shortly, and some later. I will post these as they are done. For now, here is the underbench cabinet ... The rear, before the back was installed ... The front. The ring pulls are antiqued brass (they are not shiny). I need to work them a little more to remove the still-new look. These were chosen as they drop down and do not project out from the front
  6. Drawer Bottom and Slips One of the least pleasurable areas of drawer making is fitting drawer bottoms. Why? Because there always seems more to do than anticipated - there are more panels to machine to thickness and area, and this feels like it is endless. Mindless. Before starting on the bottoms, the drawer fronts are planed, chipped dovetails repaired, and fine-tuning of the bottom-less drawer is completed ... Link to the fixture here: One of the rules I set for myself at the start of this project was that,
  7. No mitre gauge track!!? I do think that a router table is a wonderful resource. However, a good router table does not need to be complex. In fact, I much prefer the KIS principle. My first router table was simply a piece of MDF with a hole for the bit. The fence was a 2x4 clamped alongside. It did good work. While this latest router table has many bells and whistles, it is still relatively simple compared to many. This is my solution for a mitre track ... There are two reasons to have a mitre track. The first is to attach a feather board. As I mentioned earlier, the JessEm guides do
  8. The aim is to glue up the assembled drawer and let it dry in the drawer case. This drawer fits ... ... however it is a tight squeeze and I know that there are issues which need to be corrected before glue is applied. It is the same for every drawer. Each drawer needs to go through an assessment, trouble-shooting for issues, until the drawer moves smoothly. I need to point out at this stage that, although drawers are made in batches (a row), each drawer is fitted, tuned, and glued up before assembling the next drawer. At this stage, six (of ten) drawers have been compl
  9. Perhaps I need to explain the title, "Dovetailing for Blood". In part, the description comes from a book, "Backgammon for Blood", by Peter Becker I read about 4 decades ago. It's about taking the game to the most competitive level. This series of articles is not a how-to about dovetailing; it is about the strategies I use when building drawers. I offer them for discussion and your interest. This is the drawer in question. In the previous article, the focus was on strategies for connecting the drawer front and drawer sides via half-blind dovetails. The aim there - and c
  10. I have just completed another router table: This is built into the outfeed of my table saw. It features a number of interesting items: fully-functioning fence, JessEm guides, Router Raizer, Wixey digital gauge, and amazing dust collection! The aim was to build a router table with good features, and at a reasonable cost. To do this, there is no expensive router lift, and the fence is shop-made. I hope it offers up some ideas for others. Regards from Per
  11. Rebuilding a Kiyohisa oire nomi
  12. Cock ups I recently wrote that I aim to build as best as I can. Sometimes it does not go well at all I make two repairs today. Usually, the mistakes I make are as I get spatially challenged, and cut the wrong side of the board. The first one here was being a little over-enthusiastic with a block plane when trimming a drawer front (a few days ago). The problem is difficult to detect from a distance ... ... but close up .... ! Damn. The drawer front is part of a set of three. It cannot simply be replaced. One also cannot glue a filler to the side of the board.
  13. He used it in the same way as a scraper blade - removed the teeth and hammered it in. Regards from Perth Derek
  14. Dovetailing for Blood! Bill and I have been discussing drawer-making. We have different approaches since our target audience is a different group. Bill is better aligned with production work, aiming to build a drawer as quickly as possible. He is less concerned with aesthetics (although his work always looks exceptionally good) and more focussed on finding shortcuts to increase speedier construction. My work is aimed at being the best I can, with a focus on traditional construction completed to as near perfection as I can muster (which sounds grander in words than in practice!). I ar
  15. This chapter follows on from "Before the Drawers", in which I should have ended stating, "Now we are one step away from making drawers". And now this chapter is that penultimate step ... I need to explain some of the (as I feel) pedantic details I have been outlining. Firstly, I write this for those who are starting out and those who are seeking ways to increase their accuracy. The steps may not be new to some, but we all like to be reassured that others also find them necessary. Secondly, I am going to introduce a fixture I built that increases not only accuracy, but speeds up a
  16. Nice Gee-Dub I wrote an article about this about 2 years ago, and it is somewhere on this forum. There is a copy on my website now, having added a page on power tools and machines a few months back ... Tools and Machinery/BuildingADrillPressTable.html Don't forget, the circle needs to be offset from the centre of the drill bit to maximise use ... [img[/img] Regards from Perth Derek
  17. Only make router bases with Lexan before this. Regards from Perth Derek
  18. It seems so straight forward: build the case, insert drawer frames and dividers, and build the drawers. Each step actually requires planning ahead. The devil lies is in the details. These are some of the details we take for granted ... Step one is to plane the fronts of the rails and dividers, and fill in any chips with tinted epoxy. Even gluing up requires a strategy when the case includes blind sliding dovetails: glue these first. The benefit of liquid hide glue is extended open time and repairability. I hope that I do not have to make any repairs, but I could do with the
  19. I am pleased to get to this stage, with everything still square .... ... 24 sliding dovetails done. Only a dry fit - now to glue it together .. Regards from Perth Derek
  20. A blind sliding dovetail This is the front of the cabinet, with all the vertical dividers to install. The single lower- and the two dividers need to be fitted into a sliding dovetail ... however, unlike the dividers at the rear, this must be from inside the case. In other words, a blind sliding dovetail. This post will show the steps taken for the lowermost, central divider. This could not be done without the aid of blue tape. This is used to mark the apex of the tail ... This is how the tail will be positioned. Below is where the pin socket has to be c
  21. Preparing for the drawer dividers After making dados, and drawer blades, and then fitting them, comes the vertical drawer dividers. I consider that these are the make-and-break of a chest of drawers. It is tough to get a case square. It is tough to get the the dados positioned correctly. The drawer blades are simple. But then comes the dividers ... Drawer dividers are needed when there are more than a single drawer in each row. In this cabinet, there are two rows of three drawers and two rows of two drawers. Care in aligning the dividers at the front and rear is necessary to e
  22. The plate is a Seneca Domiplate: This allows one to bypass the Domino’s fence and set a central cutting position for 12mm/18mm or 1/2”/3/4” thick boards. The advantage is thatbthere can be no errors creeping in from a fence that misaligns. Regards from Perth Derek
  23. We left off with the case complete, dados ready for the drawer blades, and the parts semi-prepared ... With 10 drawers in 4 rows, there are a goodly number of joints to make for the drawer blades. Typically, these are made with mortice-and-tenon joinery, which has been my method to date. Today I decided to do something different .. use a Festool Domino. I purchased this four years ago to aid in building a multitude of frame-and-panel doors for our kitchen. It did a great job, and then it was retired to a shelf. The rails for the drawer blades are all 45mm wide x 12mm thick. I u