• Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by derekcohen

  1. There are a few ways to attach butted mitred corners. 1. Glue with “sizing”. End grain is a bunch of straws, and this tends to suck up glue, with the result that the joint become glue-starved. Glue can hold a butt joint very well. - see how well panels last with just glue - however there must be glue to do so. Sizing is using glue to seal the straws before glueing. Water down some of the glue you plan to use, and wipe it into the glue area. Let it get 90% dry. - a touch tacky - and then add the regular glue, and join the pieces together. 2. Reinforce the mitre. Create a spline using a table saw or router table. Generally, 3mm (1/8”) thick will be fine. My saw blades are 3.2mm wide. The orientation of the grain for the spline is important. You want end grain facing out. 3. Use biscuits, dominos or dowels. A spline is the strongest method because it can run the full length of the joint (or near-full length if the mortice is stopped). This is where biscuits can score over dominos - the biscuit is shallow but long, while a domino (and way back in third place, the dowel) is deep but narrow. This limits where you can position a domino or dowel. 4. Dovetail splines at the top and the bottom of the mitre. Chisel these out. 5. Splines through the outer corner edges of the joint. May be done using a sled on a table saw or router table. Or use a biscuit machine. If you like the look, of course. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. The dovetails for the drawer fronts of Marc’s cabinet are indeed similar, jn that they are lipped. His drawer design and construction is, however, quite different, and reflect his power tool orientation. Nicely done. Regards from Perth Derek
  3. I don't have a chop saw, but I do have the DUST COMMANDER DLX ESD   connected to a Festool CT26E. This is a powerful combination, and used effectively with a Domino as well as the table saw guard, as shown here. I imagine that it would handle your chop saw. The Dust Commander is much the same as a Dust Deputy, perhaps a little better. What is relevant is that the hoses used for extraction from a chop saw need to be wide: 35mm minimum. Run a Dust Commander or Dust Deputy between the two, and you should see an improvement. Regards from Perth Derek
  4. Did I make the entry door? No way. That's a job for the professionals. Regards from Perth Derek
  5. I've worked quite a bit with Hard Maple. It has a similar density, but is a joy to work. Jarrah is open grain, can be very interlocked, and also quite brittle. All the other US hardwoods I have used - such a Black Walnut and Cherry - are tame by comparison. You need to be thinking along the lines of Wenge. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. A couple of extras ... Regards from Perth Derek
  7. My niece is getting married at the end of March, the entry hall table she asked for is completed, and in a couple of days it will head off to Sydney. This is the model for the table she wanted me to build, but to build it in Jarrah ... I needed to make a few modifications. The most notable were, firstly, that there are three drawers, where the model has two. With a little research, it became evident that the model was a "flat pack" build from a store in the UK, and it used slides and poppers for the drawers. Without slides, wide drawers will rack since the depth-to-width ratio is all wrong. Three drawers change this ratio and make it workable. Secondly, building a drawer to ride wood-on-wood, one cannot use poppers - and so drawer handles are necessary. My niece was keen that drawer handles would not be seen, and I have done my best to make them unobtrusive. Together with the desire to avoid drawer handles, there was also the request to make the drawers appear to be a single piece, rather than drawers separated by drawer dividers. The fact is, we had to have drawer dividers. So, to hide them, drawer fronts were given lips, with a lip covering half the width of a divider. In this way, the dividers could double as drawer stops. Making lipped, half-blind dovetails was a first for me. In the end, they were not too bad. The case of the original table is mitred, and this is likely butt jointed and supported with either dowels, biscuits or dominos. My choice was to use mitred through dovetails, both for their strength and also for aesthetics. Although I have done a number of similar cases in recent years, this joint is one where you hold your breath until it all comes together. Then you wonder what the fuss was about A fifth change was the attachment of the legs. The model likely used a metal screw per leg, which was common with Mid Century furniture. I wanted something stronger and durable so, in place of this, my decision was to stake the legs into a thicker base, which was firmly attached to the underside of the case with tapered, stopped sliding dovetails. A bit more work, but I will sleep better at night. At the end of the day, it resembles a box, and only a woodworker will recognise that it is a very complex box. Okay, here it is. It is photographed in my entrance hall .... The wood is fiddleback (curly) Jarrah. A close up the waterfall on one side ... ... and on the other ... The obligatory dovetail shot ... Those drawers! The lipped drawer fronts are 20mm, with the drawer sides 1/4". The back is 15mm thick. The thin sides necessitated drawer slips. These were beaded to create a transition from slip to drawer bottom. The drawer bottoms are 1/4". The wood used here is Tasmanian Oak. Since the case and internals are build from hard Jarrah, the underside of the slips was given a Jarrah slide to improve ware properties. As mentioned earlier, the aim was to present a single board at the front ... Here may be seen how the lips share the drawer divider and use it as a drawer stop. The spacers at the side of the case are half the width of the dividers as they do not share two drawers. Now those drawer handles ... I tried to keep the design as simple as possible, and used the same wood as the drawer fronts so they would blend in. The upper drawer shows the finger grip on underside of the handle ... Drawer extension is good - about 80-85 percent ... The internal bevels around the case ... ... maintained a straight edge to the drawer line. Plus the gap between the drawers (about 0.5mm) ... Near-to-last, the case back: this is made from the same Jarrah - one never knows if the piece will end up against a wall or out in the open. Someone will ask if the brass screws were clocked ... of course they were! And a final photo to provide some scale. This is taken with a chair I built a few years ago ... Thanks for coming along for the ride. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. This is the last part of the build - completing of the drawer bottoms and pulls. A panel was prepared some weeks ago. 1/4" thick Tasmanian Oak. This was made up of two, book matched boards. Blue tape was used to pull the jointed edges together. Clamps are unnecessary for this task ... Measure off the full width of the drawer bottom from inside the slips ... Of possible interest is the work holding for the drawer bottom ... The bench dogs on each side were made from sections of unhardened O1 steel, and filed into teeth. Another heads-up is the arm for this cutting guard. Some while back, Veritas brought out a gauge with a fine adjuster. They now sell the arms to upgrade existing gauges, which is what I have done here to a wheel gauge I made ... Here the tongue is marked (about 4mm). This will fit into the groove in the slip. The thickness of the tongue is marked (3mm). The tongue is planed ... The fit is tested with a spare slip ... The bottom was about 1mm too wide to fit. A LN edge was perfect to re-joint one side ... Re-establish the tongue with a shoulder plane ... Slide the bottom in. At this time it is just a dry fit. The front, which remains 1/4" thick to fit to 1/4" groove at the rear of the drawer front, is not yet pushed home. The front groove will hold the one end firmly, allowing movement towards the rear of the drawer. The drawers require pulls. The aim is to make the pulls "vanish" as much as possible. To do this, the shape is kept simple, and the wood is a section from the drawer fronts. Here it is being planed to 1/4" thickness. Set up to make the pulls ... A 10mm wide rebate is planed on both sides. This will be completed on the reverse side as well, to create a tenon 3mm thick. Four sections are marked off for the pulls (only three are needed) .. A router is used to create dimples for a finger grip on the underside of the pull (three were needed and were good here; one could be tossed) ... The outlines are cut out ... The router is again used, this time to create a 3mm x 50mm mortice in the drawer fronts for the pulls ... The final section of the build is the drawer back. I decided to use Jarrah to match the rest - one never knows whether the hall table will become a room divider. The newly-purchased JessEm Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides make a clean, accurate rip that much easier ... The next post will show the completed hall table. Regards from Perth Derek
  9. Funny that combination or sliding squares get checked for “squareness” by running a line along the side. Since they are used (in my workshop) at the ends if the rule (marking to a depth), they should also be checked for having square ends. Never seen anyone do this. The best ... repeat Best ... squares for woodworking, are machinist squares. These are two sections of steel riveted together The worst are squares which look similar but are made from wood and metal. The rivets will stretch the wood and move out if alignment. The best of the best are squares made for woodworking by Chris Vesper. These are machinist square, solid metal (with inlay), and come with an accuracy certification. Use one to judge your sliding square is square, inside and outside. Use them for woodworking, The cheapest accurate squares are the plastic drafting squares you can get from a news agent. Useful for setting up a shooting board. Regards from Perth Derek
  10. The build is nearing the conclusion. The drawers, case back, and finish to do. Here, the drawers are continued. The focus of this article is on fitting the drawer (with lipped sides), and the fixtures that are used in the course of this process. We ended the last build session with the drawer parts made ... ... and the lipped drawer fronts completed ... First task today was to plane the groove for the drawer fronts .. The drawer sides and drawer back were dovetailed ... simple through dovetails. The notable feature here is that space is left for the drawer slip (which replaces the drawer groove as the drawer sides are 1/4" thick). Of interest may be the bench hook I use. I suspect that some may look at this and wonder why I am butchering it by chopping on its top .. Well, it is just scrap, and took about 5 minutes to make. So far this one has lasted about 3 months. I should get a few more out of it. Not only is it used for chopping, but also sawing ... ... and even shooting ... One of the issues with a lipped front is that it cannot be planed to fit after glue up. So, there are lots of dry fitting, and the sides are planed individually. This planing stop is invaluable for thin boards ... There is non-slip in the form of Crubber on the face of the stop ... When fitted together, any raised pins need to be pared level. Here, the drawer is captured in a fixture (essentially, two pieces of ply, each with a cut out). The pins are pared with the newly-released Veritas flushing chisels ... I've had a pre-production set for a couple of years. This is what a prototype handle looks like ... Veritas now supply this in a nice wooden handle. The one I am using is a design of my own, ala a Japanese slick .. Fitting the drawers also required positioning and glueing the drawer dividers. These also act as drawer stops ... This is the drawer divider in position ... It is slid back ... The first third of the dado receives glue ... The drawer is replaced and positioned .. And then the drawer divider is slid up against the rear of the lip .. The drawer case is fine-tuned with the LN Rabbet Block Plane ... This is used to smooth over any irregularities in the side walls and, where necessary, to plane away any fat ... The drawers are in the process of being glued up. Drawer #3 cannot be glued up until a brass plate is recessed into one side. T Marked out, the waste routed, and then chiselled along the circumference ... The drawer fronts are planed ... Another dry assembly and check for fit ... If there is any resistance to the drawer being pushed in-and-out, I test fit it from the rear. This shows whether the drawer or case needs some planing. Looking good here, as it goes right in ... There is good drawer extension (about 80%) ... The drawers are now glued up. Lastly, for the day, the slips are attached. These began like this, grooved and beaded ... A Jarrah runner is added below. The upper section of the slip is, as with the drawer sides and drawer bottoms, made from Tasmanian Oak. This is similar to US White Oak in hardness and wear. Since the drawers run on Jarrah, the wear properties are improved with the Jarrah wear section ... Tomorrow should see the conclusion of the build. Regards from Perth Derek
  11. Ahha .. a lapped dovetail is a half-blind dovetail. I forgot that this is the name used in the UK. Is the lipped- and half-blind/lapped dovetail different? The lipped dovetail is a half-blind with a lip. The lip makes it more complicated since it restricts how much can be sawn, which affects how the waste is removed. The joint also requires extra preparation at the start, with rebates being created at each side (and sometimes on all four sides). So, short answer, they are similar, but the lipped is more complex. Regards from Perth Derek
  12. What's a lapped dovetail? Never heard of one. Regards from Perth Derek
  13. Today I completed the second and third drawer fronts ... Since I had only come across one article on making the lipped drawers - and that predominantly used power tools - and failed to find a single video on the topic, I decided to make one myself: This is a real-time video - no editing. So skip the parts as they bore you. Hopefully some of it will amuse. Or watch at bedtime if you are insomniac Regards from Perth Derek
  14. Coop, I will show and demonstrate this below (look for my next post). Link to my website: Regards from Perth Derek
  15. I'm sorry I wasted your time with this information. Regards from Perth Derek
  16. John, in part it comes down to the glue one uses. It is less likely that one who works with dominos will use hide glue, which is both reversible (with moist heat) and also one can re-glue it (it is okay to add hide glue on top of hide glue, which one cannot do with a white or yellow glue). This is partly a mindset thing. The second factor is that one is attempting to undo a joint which has glue on both ends, and not just on one end (so there is greater strength in this situation). Thirdly, there are a vast range of mortice-and-tenon joints to choose from, as I posted a link to above, and some are designed to be pulled apart with little damage. Regards from Perth Derek
  17. I am not disagreeing that the Domino makes a good mortice. For example, I use it to make the mortices for holding down table tops .. However, the mortice created is quite simple on its own. It can be developed further with hand tools. This is what I recommend. As it stands, it only creates the bases for a loose tenon joint. And unless one has the knowledge of joinery, this is what it will remain. Because of its simplicity, I would argue that most users do not know about the range of mortice-and-tenon joinery that can be used for different situations. In their hands it just becomes another biscuit jointer. How many of these mortice-and-tenon joints have you used? One of the most used mortice-and-tenon joints I use is the drawbored joint. This pulls the joint together mechanically. Dominos rely on glue. The two joints are different, not just in versitility, but also in reversibility. Good discussion Regards from Perth Derek p.s. the table above has large mortice-and-tenons ... These ones appear that they could have been done with a Domino, however they were drawbored from the inside. Cheers Derek
  18. Hey Chestnut, you are welcome to argue I just call this discussion or debate .. that is what the forum is about. The Domino is a great machine. As pointed out above, I have one. Since building my kitchen a few years back, it has seen little use for morticing as I prefer traditional mortice-and-tenon joints. These have an advantage in that I can design and build different style tenons, such as wedged through and square, drawbored frames and drawbored breadboard ends, and haunched joints, just to name those off the top of my head. I do have mixed feelings about dominos, as I did for biscuits (and I use the latter as well). On the one hand, these are excellent production tools for speeding up work. On the downside, the joinery they build cannot be repaired. I believe that all quality furniture must be capable of repair. This is not something that only takes place in 100 years, The other mixed feeling is that joinery with these machines is so easy that it discourages the learning of traditional joinery, which is a down hill slope. Regards from Perth Derek
  19. This is the part where we begin building one-piece lipped drawers (as contrasted with applied fronts). In preparing for this part of the build, my research uncovered exactly one article on dovetailing lipped drawer fronts. This is by Christian Becksvoort in Fine Woodworking magazine (#263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue). Interesting that. Why lipped drawer fronts? Simply because the three drawers must run continuously across the front, without a gap between them. The lipped sides will wrap around the drawer dividers, and these will double as drawer stops. This will be illustrated in a short while. The lipped ends create a challenge to form the pins/sockets for the tailed drawer sides since it becomes difficult to saw. I have a novel solution We begin by marking where the lipped sides will be. This is knifed in through from the rear of the case ... The marks are knifed with a cutting gauge. The distance from the edge is exactly the same for each board - 6mm. The side spacers are 6mm wide and the two central drawer dividers are 12mm thick, of which each lip is half this thickness. The drawer front is rebated with a moving filletster plane ... With both sides rebated, the centre must fit snuggly between the drawer dividers ... ... and leave exactly half of the dividers remaining ... Side-by-side, perfect fit ... The rebates are fine-tuned with a cutting gauge, ensuring that they are even and square ... This measure is transferred to the drawer side ... I took the time to lay out the dovetails on a scrap as a template. This saves a lot of repeated layouts ... Tails done ... The tail board with be placed here, but with the lip extending past ... This is what it would look like if dovetailed ... To make it easier to see what I am sawing, I am using blue tape ... Transferring the tails to the pin board is made a little easier as the rebate is a handy stop .. Marked out produces this ... And that is where it stops being straight forward as this is as much as it is possible to saw inside the lines ... I decided that, if I could not saw it, I would chop it. This gives new meaning to "chopping dovetails" The pin board is clamped (to avoid any splitting), and the kerfing chisel is used to deepen the existing half-kerf, and then extend it across the socket ... Now the waste is chopped out ... This picture of a fishtail chisel cleaning the corner of the socket is for bill Does it fit? Oh, the suspense! Two more to go. Regards from Perth Derek
  20. I have both a Domino DF500 and a DW biscuit joiner. Both have their uses, for example, dominos made decent joins for frames (for frame-and-panel doors) when building my kitchen.. This saved a lot of time and effort when there were around 25 frames to build. Biscuits are preferred to dominos for aligning thicknessed boards in a glue up. Note: I see many rushing off to purchase a Domino tool and selling off their biscuit joiners. One does not replace the other. They are similar machines and overlap in their tasks, but they also differ in their strengths and weaknesses. For example, the shallow and long mortice of a biscuit is preferred for strengthening a mitred edge than the deep and narrow mortice of a domino. I hesitate to refer to the Domino as “mortice-and-tenon”. The joint it makes is a loose tenon. This is, as Billy Jack, noted, a production joint. It lacks the design and application range of a true tenon, which can vary in size and type for different applications. In the furniture I build, I only use true mottice-and-tenon joinery. I understand (and accept) that many want to use dominos and biscuits to replace this, but it is not the same and will have a short life span. For example, repair is difficult on these joints. I build furniture with traditional joinery as longevity is important. I assjme that someone at some time in the future may wish to make a repair. None of this is intended to disparage dominos or biscuits, but just to create a perspective. I am very impressed with the DF500, and it has lots of uses. Such as creating mortices for attaching table tops. I considered the larger 700 when purchasing a Domino, and am happy I went with the smaller machine as it fits better with the size of furniture I build. I cannot imagine needing larger than 10mm dominos. Regards from Perth Derek
  21. Zack, you need three planes: a jack (Stanley #5), a jointer (you can use the Veritas #6, but a Stanley #7 would be better), and a smoother (get a Stanley #4 and turn the Kobalt into a scrub plane or doorstop). Actually, you do not need a scrub plane - the jack with a 10-12" radius blade will do the job. Get these on eBay and just be particular what you bid on. Pre-WW II are better than post-WW II. Do your research on cleaning and tuning planes. Regards from Perth Derek
  22. I put the last screws in after work. That will free up this weekend to concentrate on building the drawers. There are three screws. The one at the toe is fixed and there is no play for any movement. The two at the rear can slide 2mm each way. Regards from Perth Derek
  23. Okay, so I decided that the wood screws were a mistake. They would prevent movement rather than permit it. So they had to go. This is the exchange screw: a 12 gauge stainless steel wood/metal screw with an all-important flat/domed head. The plan was to use a 3/4" forstner bit. This would leave a wide, flat area for the screw head to move along. The range of movement would be the same as before, about 2mm each side of the screw. A MDF template was made to guide the forstner bit, as it had no support in view of the existing hole ... Drilled to depth ... A steel washer added ... Done ... I had only 15 minutes after work today, but on the weekend, when I get back to this build, I plan to add a third screw behind the front leg. Regards from Perth Derek
  24. The process of attaching of the legs was completed by the addition of two screws in the sliding dovetail base. Why add screws? The screws are not to prevent the base sliding back (an elongated hole actually encourages this). It is just to prevent the base twisting in, and breaking out of, the socket since there is no glue there to prevent any lateral movement. The force comes from the splayed and angled legs. They will want to cant outward, and this becomes more so when the three drawers are filled and a vase of flowers is placed on the top of the table. I thought that it is worth mentioning the screws used and how they were inserted. The screws are 1" long brass tapered wood screws. The drill bits are also tapered to match. These ones include a countersink and depth stop. The plan is to drill the hole for the screw through the base and into the case, and then widen the hole in the base. This will permit the base to move with expansion and contraction. In this case 2mm each way. A wider drill bit (and depth stop) .. Before inserting a screw, especially brass screws, they are dipped in a little wax. This is wax for lubricating bandsaw blades ... Here is the widened hole ... The gap around the screw ... The second screw is on the other side of the leg. This is positioned about half way between the end screw and the glued toe. Regards from Perth Derek
  25. It's time for the drawers. Once again there is a challenge. The design calls for drawer fronts that stretch across the front without being broken by drawer dividers. In other words, "lipped drawers". There are two ways to do this. The easy way is to used "planted fronts", that is, attached fronts to the front of a box ... The hard way is to make the drawer front a single piece. This requires rebating the drawer front and forming a half blind dovetail in the side of the rebate. Courtesy of Christian Becksvoort ... I've chosen the high road (sigh). Today I spent my time preparing for three drawers. Why three and not two, as in the original design? Simply because I can build them narrower, and this will make them less likely to rack. They'll end up somewhere around 280mm wide and 290mm deep. I anticipated that 375mm wide and 290mm deep would be a disaster waiting to happen. The only way drawers that dimension could work is on runners, which I do not do. The wood for the drawer front is more Fiddleback Jarrah (by request), while the remainder of the drawer is quarter sawn Tasmanian Oak (which is actually a Eucalyptus, and is quite unstable unless quarter sawn. I keep a stock for drawers). It is a lot like US White Oak in appearance and hardness. I have a bunch of narrower boards, which I re-sawed to make 7mm thick drawer sides, and glued together two to get the height needed ... No clamps, just blue painter's tape, which is stretched across. It pulls the edges together. This is enough for 4 drawer sides (one spare) ... The drawer bottoms will be 1/4" (6.35mm) thick ..... I cannot go metric here as my plough blade is imperial .... this is re-sawn from a wide board, which saves some effort as only two boards are needed for the bottoms (the grain runs across the drawer) ... Same trick with the blue tape, and cauls are also added to keep it flat. This will be sawn up at the time it is needed, and the panel will remain in the cauls until thn. The narrow drawer sides necessitate using drawer slips, which is a strip added to the sides with a groove for the drawer bottom. This also adds extra width as a runner. The slips are made with a plough plane. In this case, I used both a Veritas Small Plow (to plough the groove) and the Veritas Combination Plow (to plough a bead - the bead lies at the join of the slip and drawer bottom). Setting up both save time switching set ups back and forth, and once begun, making these slips was a quick process ... First plough the bead ... A tip on how to avoid over-planing the bead. This comes from David Charlesworth. Scribble pencil along the top of the bead, and when it is gone, the bead is complete ... Now flip the board around to plane the groove ... The first line is where the groove begins, which is 3mm below the bead. There will follow a 1/4" groove, and there will be 4mm below this to support the groove/drawer bottom. This makes the slip a smidgeon over 12mm high. It is 10mm deep, which allows for a 5mm deep groove. As mentioned, once set up, no further marking is necessary. Just plane ... ... and then rip off the slip on the table saw. This is a mock up: the bead at the top and the groove on the side ... I have a strategy to fit the drawer fronts, so that the edges align with each other. It is all about accurate marking out. This will hinge on getting the opening exact, and transferring the respective measurements to their drawer fronts. First order of the day was to fit (what will become) drawer backs to the front between the drawer dividers. This is what the result looked like ... The table saw can cross cut really close, but only a shooting board will get the final dimension ... On to the all-important drawer fronts! I was heartened that all the verticals were indeed vertical still ... well, except for one (if you look carefully, you will see light in the top half) ... This meant a slight adjustment of that side .. again a job for the shooting board. Set one, mark the angle with a small sliding bevel ... ... transfer this to the side of the board, and head for the shooting board. As the side is no longer square, a shim is used to create the needed angle ... A good result ... This is the join I need to manage ... These are the fronts fitted in sequence ... And here were are now, waiting for the next build day ... Regards from Perth Derek